Highbury

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Post to the north Clissold Park

Aberdeen Lane

Aberdeen Park

Probably after George Hamilton-Gordon, 4th Earl of Aberdeen (1784-1860), who was first Lord of the Treasury from December 1852 to January 1855? The land had been sold off along with the rest of the demesne of Highbury Manor by the Colebrooke family in the 18th century and was then owned by George Morrice, who was also tenant of 25 acres on the Highbury New Park estate until Henry Rydon bought that in 1852. The roads of the  Aberdeen Park were laid out in 1853 and building continued until 1864, with further small houses added in the 1930s Generously laid out loop. Central tennis courts filled in the 1930s with small houses of the bypass variegated type. Developed from the 1850s.  A generously laid-out loop of 1853 with St Saviour at its centre.  Tennis courts, and inappropriately filled in the 1930s with small houses of the bypass variegated type.  

St.Saviour’s church.  Church of the Most Holy Saviour Built 1856/66.  Since 1990 Florence Trust artists' studios.  

Victorian pillar

20-26 Foreign Missions Club

Seaforth Crescent. The garden of one of Sir John's solid Italianate houses at the southeast corner of the estate redeveloped as council housing. architects Darbourne and Darke, 

Only two entrances were provided to Aberdeen Park:

Victorian pillar box,

Aberdeen Road

16 was Chapel

Aden Terrace

Start of Stoke Newington parish.  Named for the British capture of Aden in 1849.

The road was never a terrace but was built as semi-detached villas. It remains a pedestrian way. a footpath by allotments which mark the line of the New River continuing from Clissold Park.

New River. with allotment gardens on the line of the River. notice the suggestion of an embankment on the left-hand side.

Albion Road

Albion Road was laid out after the land was sold for building in 1821. It forms the main road through an area developed by Thomas Cubitt 1823-39. The best of the remaining houses of this time are three-storeyed stucco groups, with a lively rhythm of receding and projecting bays. some single houses and groups remain. The grander houses contrast with the humbler artisan neighbourhood to the SE, where a right grid of small streets was laid out c. 1850

Iron gates.  ‘W ‘ on them.  Isaac Watts hymn writer.

Albion Pub.  stately detached Italianate building. Ground floor remodelled 1890 by W. G. Shoebridge, converted to housing 1998.

Beresford Terrace

Built by 1860

New River. Before 1870 the river made a detour westwards between Beresford Terrace and St Paul's Road, and the southern part of this may still be traced:

Burma Road

conventional stucco-trimmed terrace

1a Turkish Islamic Centre. cleverly fitted in behind a windowless brick wall, its glazed dome just visible. Entrance court with reused columns

Church Walk

Half mile long. Another ancient footpath leads to Newington Green; and to the parish church, is now blocked by Stoke Newington School.

Clissold Crescent

shown on old maps as Park Lane

New River. On the right are railings at one end of a strip of allotments; a metal plate attached to them records "The Park Lane Bridge was demolished and the road widened June 1931". The curve of the allotments clearly indicates the old course

Ferntower Road

Laid out later than Petherton Road

Grosvenor Avenue

Highbury New Park continuation.  A handsome detached villa with Venetian windows flanking an Ionic porch.  Other houses replaced by flats.

New River crosses it. continued behind the houses of Petherton Road to cross Grosvenor Avenue near Spring Gardens  a new block of flats There is a terrace of old properties along the south of Grosvenor Avenue but in two places there is apparently newer building - at.127, and at 139 and 139a;  old maps show a gap where 139 and 139a now stand. There is now no indication of where the channel crossed the railway line but beyond it, opposite the 'gap', is a curved narrow space between houses in a position consistent with the course shown on old maps along which the New River reached St. Paul's Road at the corner with

Was it by 127 Eves Court ran southwest and crossed diagonally east of the present council block, which is on the site of Highbury Park Presbyterian church.  Straightened in 1870.  In the road 1860s following the straight bit of the New River after it had been laid out again.  Bend at Ferntower Road. 

Spring Gardens  a new block of flats. New River criossed the road about here.

Highbury Estate.  6 acres.  Will be 10 five-storey blocks. Villas destroyed by bombing.  London County Council flats on their new Highbury estate. 

96 Highbury Film Studios.  Athenaeum Studios. Athenaeum 1960s flats.  Original 1864 Anglican Church ‘iron chapel’ became Highbury House of Commons Athenaeum 1920 became ITV then demolished in 1963. 

97-119 is the earlier terrace -  built before the loop in the New River was straightened

121-137 The old course of New River can be seen in this terrace, which was built after the diversion had been straightened out.  On easily distinguishable from the earlier terrace

127 Eves Court – did the New River cross here? Apparently not

1391/139b built over what was the garden of 141 in the 1920s. Michael Graubart has counted the houses and compared it with an old map which shows a gap where 139 and 139a now stand.  This seems to be where the New River went through.

141 beyond here the New River turned abruptly to cross the railway in an shallow aqueduct.  Therefore, the house was given a garden at the side aqueduct: the spot is marked by a, black poplar. Thus having little rear garden space, was given compensatory garden at the side, and this was built over in the 1920s

Ashfield/Parkchurch/Elmfield.  Council blocks. On the site of Highbury Park Presbyterian Church. Redevelopment finally obliterated the line of the New River till then marked by one or two garden-walls.  Highbury Park Presbyterian Church, 1863 by E. Habershon. Only the facade remains, of a neo-Hawksmoor type, with a low portico. The tower Italian but with a spire.

Highbury Grange

The name of the road recalls the existence to the south of a grange of the Knights Hospitaller from 1271 to the dissolution of the monasteries. The farm buildings were gradually appropriated for the use of the tavern and the last known reference to a farmer is in the right of way lawsuit of 1784.

The road to Highbury from Islington was a secluded dead end when the first developments were built in the fields here. The famous London speculative builder Thomas Cubitt (1788-1855), who later laid out Belgravia and Bloomsbury and was a main contractor on the railway from London to Brighton, was first on the scene here with one of his early enterprises. In 1820 he negotiated with his former landlords, the Hopkinsons, for use of the meadow on the east side of Highbury Park, previously known as Cream Hall Road.  It was intended from the start as a select residential development of suburban villas with large gardens, stables and outbuildings, so the leases included a covenant against offensive trades. The site lay between Newington Turning, the footpath to Stoke Newington church now called Kelross Road, and the grounds of Highbury Barn Tavern, and Cubitt divided it with a central access road

Mews Some 100 metres down the road a mews runs northwards along the bottom of the grounds of the three pairs of Cubitt villas and may be seen to preserve some original stock brick stabling, while lower down the terraces date from about 1855.

54-46. The only remaining example is the double house leased during 1821 to John Smart, a City silk manufacturer, and a Mr Hughes respectively.

Highbury New Park

Highbury New Park.  The stately curve of a broad thoroughfare shaded by mature plane trees which in summer discreetly preserve the privacy of the solid Victorian mansions. We turn left and walk northwards through the best-preserved section of the estate. In October 1850 Henry Rydon, an ex-tailor of Finsbury Circus, owner of brickfields and small time developer, increased the scale of his operations by acquiring this 100-acre estate. In plan the area resembles a tall triangle, stretching from an apex at the Robinson Crusoe in the north to the North London Railway in the south, while the east-west profile increases irregularly until the south end touches both Highbury Grove and Newington Green.  Rydon, as developer as well as owner of the estate, kept close control of all the planning and employed Charles Hambridge as his factotum. The spacious and wealthy theme of Highbury New Park is closely allied to the contemporary attempts to establish a large public park at Highbury. Although the estate is unusual, the choice of dwellings available and its good railway connection with the City made it attractive to mid-Victorians of solid          but unspectacular means. The rate books indicate that most of the original residents owned their own small businesses in the City, accessible by the North London Railway (first class fare 6d) or the Highbury to Bank omnibus, one of the fleet of 'Favourites' first established by one Wilson. Artistic residents were singularly lacking, perhaps preferring Hampstead. The 1861 Census shows that all but 4 of the households had at least one servant and the wealthier ones had up to six: a groom, cook, housemaid, parlour maid, nursemaid and nurse. As for the houses themselves, Hambridge used plain brick for the structure, but employed carved stone and polychrome brick for the architectural details, and sometimes resorted to encaustic tiles to add interest to a wall. His styles range from Venetian gothic, through Lombardic Romanesque to elegant white stuccoed Regency, with some intrepid experiments. A 100-acre suburb was planned in 1851 by Henry Rydon Victorian tailor - to attract City businessmen and their families.  Built from 1853 as a long, broad tree-lined sweep lined by detached and paired villas, leading to St Augustine's Church.  Its grandeur and social aims it is comparable to the slightly earlier Clapham Park in South London, but here styles and materials are mixed with all the exuberant originality of the mid-Victorian period, although the houses are more or less standard.  There has been much rebuilding at either end, but the central feature is well preserved, reprieved from decline from the 1970s.  Put most up like 55.  Greek round floor and Venetian basements.  Wide and leafy with gardens behind balustraded walls. Electric villas. A tree-lined thoroughfare ending at Clissold Park, many of the villas are as fine as those of Hamilton Terrace, St John's Wood, and when first built must have been inhabited by people of considerable wealth.  The wide and leafy road starts near the end of Highbury Grove.  The tone is set by a row of wealthy Italianate pairs on the side, back beyond stuccoed balustraded garden walls, now much depleted.  Early villas of 1853-6 remain on the side.  The estate was completed by various builders from the mid 1870s; opposite the church are modest streets with terraces instead of the crescent at first planned.                                  

St.Augustine’s church 1870 - Ryden paid £10,000 for it.   Architects Habeshon and Brockh - never enough money for the spire.  Trendy vicars have changed the inside recently.  Henry Rydon himself lived in Highbury New Park and paid £10 000 for the erection in 1870 designed in a colourful style by the architects William Gillbee Habershon and E.P.L. Brock for a parish whose population rose to nearly 7000 by 1888. 

Church School Buildings. Down the footpath just before St Augustine's.  Contemporary

96 The Athenaeum. A faceless 1960s block of flats stands on the site of the estate’s Athenaeum. The original building with its 80-foot brick facade was built in 1864 as the temporary Anglican church, but in 1870 the 'Iron Chapel', as it was known, was converted to be the 'Highbury House of Commons Athenaeum’. From the commercial background of its patrons, we may patronisingly surmise that the cultural and scientific pretensions of its habitués were less genuine than the Almeida Street Literary and Scientific Institution in Islington, and that musical variety evenings were the staple fare. The subsequent history of the structure is curious: it seems likely that casualties and social change in the First World War eclipsed its fortunes, for about 1920 it became the Highbury Film Studios. Film making continued until the mid-1950s when ITV moved in to make such well loved shows as Double Your Money, Take Your Pick, Noddy and Sunday Night Theatre, but they left the building to its fate in 1963.

Curve in Highbury New Park marks the eastern boundary of Islington.

New River. On Sunday a press-gang took out of the New River 19 persons who were bathing just above Highbury Barn, Islington, and carried them on board the tender. Several others ran away without their clothes, shirts, &c.' but the 19 were presumably too modest! In 1855 Rydon sold the two strips bordering the channel to the New River Company who later erected iron railings to secure the water from trespassers and accidents.

Kelross Road

Was called Newington Turning.  Path to St.Mary’s church.

Bombing V2 six houses

Kelvin Road

Bombing V2 six houses

Leconfield Road

Laid out later than Petherton Road.

Mildmay Estate

Built up 1850-65, lies South East of the green.

Mildmay Grove

Surprising. Laid out in 1850. Long terraces across the deep crevasse of the North London Railway

St.Jude and St.Paul. 1855.

Tall former vicarage

Mildmay Grove South

40 ½  modern glass and zine house an intriguing sequence of light filled rooms. Modern furniture. Philip Johnson and Leonie Milliner 2007

Mildmay Park

Part of an estate which belonged to the Halliday/Mildmay family but in the late19th Sir John Milday began to sell land off.   Still has some of its large stucco-trimmed double villas with side porches

Mildmay ParkStation 1st  January 1880.On the North London Railway.  On the east side of Mildmay Park at junction with Mildmay Grove.1934 closed  but street building stayed in place. same architectural style as earlier stations on the line. 1987 demolished. little sign left of it.

Mildmay Library. 1954. Cheap and cheerful. Dazzling primary colours. Reclad £. 1990 by Chris Purslow, Borough Architect, in white tiles Glazed lean-to reading room added along the back, overlooking a play area

Mildmay Tavern 1884

Synagogue in the 1880s  which closed 1930s

Newington

Newington Green

The area was built up in the c17 and was then a smart place to live. There is an area of mid-c19 development between two old centres at the end of Church Street.

Newington Green. Marked thus on the Ordnance Survey map of 1822 and recorded as ‘Newyngtongrene’ in 1480, 'the village green near Stoke Newington', from Middle English ‘grene’. It is said that this area was favoured by Henry VIII for hunting and that he installed his mistresses in a house to the south of the Green. There was a small medieval settlement at Newington Green, on the border of Islington and Stoke Newington, connected to the City by what is now Essex Road.  It attracted some affluent residents in c16 and early c17, and from the mid c17 a substantial number of new houses were built, some speculatively, some replacing older houses.  Smart place to live in the 17th. The green enclosed in 1742 and had become an urban square by 1742, when was given railings, and by the early c19 its surroundings were densely built up.  Managed by Vestry of Islington Taken over from MBW 1874 Development followed, completed by 1860s partly replaced by council flats between the wars and after 1945. Bombing. Today this area is a Turkish quarter, but the village centred on the green was in the past a strongly non-conformist area. Following the 1662 Act of Uniformity the lord of the manor was sympathetic to dissenting clergy who were attracted to the hamlet. Dissenters like the young Daniel Defoe could obtain an education here and experience less religious persecution than in London. King Henry VIII, according to popular tradition, was in the habit of visiting mistresses in two houses, which formerly stood, on the northwest and south sides of the green. A reminder of this belief is the existence of a road to the east. This is also where Mary Wollstonecraft, often described as the first feminist, unsuccessfully tried to found a school. She wrote Vindication of The Rights of Woman in 1792, when women were deemed to have few rights. Mary had a hard life, including a visit to France during the Revolution, and died giving birth to a daughter in 1797. The girl, also called Mary, is well known today as Mary Shelley author of Frankenstein.

Gate and railings. Listed Grade II. May be at risk.

52-55 1658 nice houses.  London's oldest surviving brick terrace.  It gives a good idea of speculative building in London before the Great Fire.  There are not many houses of the mid c17 left anywhere in London, even in so fragmentary a state as these.  The ground floors were altered by shops added c. 1880-2.  Built when it was a rural hamlet.

Alliance Club, overpowering with an Edwardian baroque screen of arch gate and open colonnade above spanning between severe blocks of flats

Bishops Palace on north side only until 1800 - Henry VIII hunting lodge.  Henry Percy, Earl of Northumberland, stayed there.  House on the west side is 1658.

China Inland Mission.

Christian missions based at Newington Green.

Edinburgh Cellars. Mosaic floor saying ‘Billiards and Saloon Bar.’

Flats on the site of Mildmay House, unexceptional

Halliday mansion south side in 40 acres.

Housing and a health centre. Rivington Street Studio's designs won a Peabody Trust competition in 1996 for housing. Six-storey curved comer tower with a low range facing Victorian terraces along Albion Street. A fine gate and railings of c. 1715-20 from No. 42 Newington Green, demolished in the 1960s is to be incorporated.

Mildmay Club. Church mission from the Mildmay Hospital, thin Baroque of 1900 by Alfred Allen; over large segmental pedimented doorway small cupola,

home of Samuel Rogers.

Newington Green Mansions turns the corner with a spirelet. The red brick late Victorian

Stoke Newington house at corner of Ferntower Road

39 Unitarian chapel.  The earliest active Nonconformist chapel in London built when the Lord of the Manor here was sympathetic to dissenters. The Chapel was built by a goldsmith in 1708 and enlarged 1860.  Built in 1708 by Edward Hamson, goldsmith, for a congregation established in 1682 Enlarged 1860. c19 cemented three-bay front with two large round-headed windows, Tuscan pilasters and a large pediment.

It includes box pews and monuments. Prominent members included Dr Richard Price, 1723-1791,a dissenting minister and radical economic and political writer; Mrs Anne Laetitia Barbauld , 1743-1825, poetess, editor of gothic novels and wife of a minister;  William Godwin 1756-1836, dissenting preacher and radical philosopher; Mary Wollstonecraft (1759-1797, the feminist writer who married Godwin; Samuel Rogers. 1763-1855, the banker-poet; Dr Andrew Pritchard, 1804-1882, microbiologist and pioneer microscopist; and Thomas Cromwell. the theologian and Islington historian

Newington Green Road

Newington and Balls Pond Station 1st September 1858. built by the East and West India Docks and Birmingham Junction Railway to connect East London and the Docks with the London and Birmingham Railway at Camden Town. In  1870 when the line was widened from to four tracks the station was replaced by Canonbury Station on a different site.  It had itself been renamed Canonbury just before it closed.

Allotments on the line used to be station. 

Northampton Park

Park Cottage, home of Mrs.Ternan and Ellen, Dickens’ girl friend

Northolme Road

St.Joan of Arc School

Petherton Road.

Attractively wide to accommodate the course of the New River.  The New River channel had a carriage-way on either side, which accounts for the road's unusual width laid out in the 1860s, following a straight reach of the river, with one slight bend at the present Ferntower Road. Smaller houses by a local builder, J. G. Bishop, were built here on the east part of Rydon's estate from 1868 to 1872, together with plain terraces in the roads up to Newington Green, completed c.1876-80 by another builder, Isaac Edmundson.  Trees planted in 1870 after the culvert was built.  .  As late as 1870 the area was still unbuilt as far as the back gardens of Highbury New Park on the west and Green Lanes on the east, the latter's curve marking Islington's eastern boundary... An avenue of trees was planted down the middle some years after the river was culverted in 1868-70. Bombing

New River left this road at 65 Beresford Terrace. A writer in the 1860s compared this stretch of The New River favourably with the more polluted southern part then already being covered over: "broader and more trimly kept . . .running between rows of villas and neat residences, [it] skirts their gardens, expanding and curving gracefully." The New River continued down Petherton Road along what is now a wide central reservation running nearly the entire length of the road.   Standing at the southern end of this reservation it is apparent that the road level drops as it passes Grosvenor Avenue and Canonbury Station, and it rises again towards the end of Wallace Road where it joins St. Paul's Road. Old maps show that the channel turned, along the 100ft contour, in a loop to the west. It swung right at Beresford Terrace and continued behind the houses to cross Grosvenor Avenue

5-7 earliest houses in Petherton Road.  Built in isolation on its west side

80 Highbury Microscopical Society

Bombing while the new terrace on the west side, between the junctions with Leconfield Road and Poets Road, records the site of a direct hit by a Second World War V2 flying bomb: 11 houses were totally destroyed with blast damage extending over a 500-foot radiusimpacts of V2s on the west side of Petherton Road,

Railway

1874 Tunnel from Finsbury Park to Canonbury Station to relive congestion

Canonbury Junction lines going off to Finsbury Park from NLR

Seaforth Crescent

Council housing at the south-east corner of Aberdeen Park estate.  1982 supposed to be very nice. Open green borders with the low curved terraces.

Stoke Newington

The name of Stoke Newington denotes the new village or town built on the borders of the wood, which once formed part of the great Middlesex forest.  It became a metropolitan borough of 51,215 inhabitants, but it consisted a century ago mainly of its long High Street on the road from London to Cambridge.  Already in 1774 it was a populous village with good houses centred round Newington Green, a large square surrounded by lofty elm trees, which lies half a mile to the west and is reached by Church Street and Albion Road.

Ward Locks bindery moved from Fleet Street in 1895,

Stoke Newington Common 

Palaeolithic working floor.  J.Withington Smith south side traced out in the fields and gardens at the north side of the common also.  Other places in London too.   Many more flints of other places 2’ to 30’ below the surface.  Many people saw them and many forgeries were made.  Managed by L.C.C.

St.Michael and All Angels. 1883. Long red brick basilica.

Vicarage

Wallace Road

Canonbury station.  1st December 1870. Between Dalson Kingsland and Highbury and Islington on the Silverlink North London Line.  The East and West India Docks and Birmingham Junction Railway had opened in 1850 to connect East London and the Docks with the London and Birmingham Railway at Camden Town; it was re-named the North London in 1853. At first a station was sited at Newington Green Road  In 1870, when the line was widened from two tracks to four, the station was replaced by a new one, Canonbury, at the junction of Wallace Road, then called Douglas Road North, and Grosvenor Avenue. The station is still in use though the handsome Italianate building has been demolished following vandalism.

New River. At the time of the railway's widening the New River in this section was being straightened, piped and covered over (1868-70), and its new pipeline down the middle of Wallace Road was incorporated in the rebuilt railway bridge.

1 Hope Villa, formerly Frankfort Villa, the New River's pre-1870 alignment is seen in the long narrow garden behind this house built 1881.

Willow Road?

Used to be called Douglas Road North.


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