Friday, 28 October 2016

Riverside west of the Tower, north bank. Chiswick riverside to Bedford Park

Post to the east St.Paul's School and Hammersmith Riverside
Post to the south Lonsdale Road and Old Chiswick
Post to the west Chiswick Turnham Green and Acton Green

Airedale Avenue
1a. Hogarth Health Club and Hogarth Clinic. This opened in 1983 on the site of the Chiswick and West London Bowling and Lawn Tennis Club which itself dated from 1908. In the 1960s it became the Greater London Sports Club. The Health Club includes outdoor sports like tennis as well as ‘treatments’ and a ‘healthy" food cafĂ©.

Annandale Road
Baptist Church.  In 1841 a few local Baptists joined Congregationalists in a chapel in Chiswick Lane. In 1866 the Congregationalists went elsewhere but the Baptists were formed into a Baptist Church with the help of. Charles Spurgeon. They moved to Annandale Road in 1883 and an iron building was put up and within a few years fund raising went ahead for a new building – which was opened by Spurgeon in 1897. It was in red brick to designs by architect John Wills.

Bath Road
This is part of the Roman Road from London to Bath – superseded by many by passes
Bath Road Halt. This was opened in 1909 on the North and South West Junction Railway and was the line's only major crossing. It consisted of a level crossing and a wooden platform which was south of the road. There was a footbridge, which was detached from the platform, and sited north of Bath Road itself.  On the south east side was a crossing keepers cottage and south of that signals and a sidings.  It closed in 1917.  The route southwards is covered in new housing and there is a modern house on the site of the station.
62 home of Camille Pissarro in 1897. He painted the adjacent railway line
14 Arts Educational School. This co-educational specialist school moved here in 1986. The building previously housed the Acton and Chiswick Polytechnic which was on the site of the Chiswick School of Art. ArtsEd offers pupils aged 11-18 an education with dance, music and drama
Chiswick School of Art. This opened in 1881, in a building designed by Maurice B. Adams.  This was one of the public buildings on the Bedford Park estate designed to develop a sense of community. Originally it offered ‘Freehand drawing in all its branches, practical Geometry and perspective, pottery and tile painting, design for decorative purposes – as in Wall-papers, Furniture, Metalwork, Stained Glass. By 1897 they also offered courses which included laundry work, carpentry, and plumbing in 1897
Acton and Chiswick Polytechnic. This dates from 1899, when Middlesex County Council took over the School of Art .It was extended to become the largest polytechnic in Middlesex by 1908.  It was badly bombed in 1944 and rebuilt in a simpler flat roofed style. The buildings were extended again in 1953-4 and formed part of Hounslow Borough College from 1965.
Bedford Park Stores. This is next to the pub and also by Norman Shaw in 1880. The original operators of the Stores went into liquidation in 1893. The building was taken over by car dealers and repairers; Keene’s Automobile Works, in the early 20th but closed by 1904. Along with the works, behind in Flanders Road, they were later taken over by Mulliners, remaining there until 1968 by which time they were associated with Rolls Royce
Tabard.  The Tabard was built in 1880 as part of a range of buildings by Norman Shaw to include the Bedford Park stores. The swing sign outside was painted by T M Rooke. Inside original tiling by William de Morgan and Walter Crane are at front entrance and the right hand bar. On the first floor is the Tabard Theatre which was opened following fund raising by Equity. It has featured for example Al Murray, Harry Hill and Russell Brand.
St Michael and All Angels. The church originated in 1876 in a temporary iron structure on Chiswick High Road. The incumbent, Rev Alfred Wilson, fund-raised for a permanent church. The present building was consecrated in 1880. The church has an Anglo-Catholic tradition. It was designed by, Norman Shaw as estate architect for Bedford Park. During the Second World War, the roof - as well as most of the stained glass – was damaged by a bomb and stained glass was replaced in 1952 to a design by Lawrence Lee
The Parish Hall. This was designed in 1884 Bedford Park architect Maurice B. Adams,

Bedford Park Corner
This is the address of a few corner shops but also the hub of the housing and businesses around this area of Chiswick, called Bedford Park.  This claims to be the ‘world's first garden suburb’. The developer was Jonathan Carr, who bought land here in 1875 near to the newly opened Turnham Green Station, having already successfully developed an area of South Kensington. The first architect for the estate was Edward William Godwin but Carr later took on Richard Norman Shaw.  His designs for the buildings were successful in creating variety whilst employing a limited number of house types and set the tone for the estate. In the 1880s there was a church, parish hall, club, stores, pub and school of art, and the area became very fashionable and a bit arty. Inevitably the area declined through the early 20th and post Second World War. A local civic society was set up in 1963 and the estate was listed. It has pretty posh ever since.

Bennett Street
This was part of ‘New Chiswick’, which was a low status area built for the workers in the many new industries of the late 19th.
St Mary Magdalene’s Church. This was built in 1848 designed and financed by a banker, John Sharpe. It was demolished when the area was cleared and it had been damaged in Second World War bombing. Magdalene House in Devonshire Street is on the site

Berestede Road
Berestede Road Open Space – described as a ‘pocket park” with benches and lined densely by mature trees. Before the widening of the Great West Road here there were houses on this site, which were presumably demolished when the road was changed.

Beverley Road
Griffin Court. On the site of Beverley Road School – the railings and frontages laid on what could be the footprint of the school.
Beverley County Primary School. Built 1926 as an infants' school. It closed in 1978. The site is now housing.
All Saints Mission Church and club room. A brick church was built here in 1901 by the parish of St Nicholas to serve the growing population. It closed after 1922 and became the site of Beverley Road School

Binns Road
Binns Terrace. This is built on the site of the girls department of the Glebe School which opened in 1877 and closed in 1926.

British Grove
This appears to be an old lane running down the parish boundary between Chiswick and Hammersmith. It is identified as a lane in the mid 18th and known as ‘British Grove’ from the mid-19th – presumably because of the British School which was there.
Motor Repair Works. This was on the east side at the north end of the street.
West London French Laundry. This laundry is shown on maps of the 1890s on the west side of the road. In 1914 their chimney was the subject of smoke abatement notices.
20 British Grove Studios. This is a recording studio owned by Mark Knopfler. Alongside modern studio technology are 1960s items. Part of the site was previously in use by Island Records, belonging to Chris Blackwell. It was previously the Royal Chiswick Laundry – and this is engraved on the gable of the main building. In the 1970s the building is shown as a laboratory.
British School.  The Hammersmith, Chiswick and Turnham Green British School opened in British Grove in 1837 and continued until 1864.
Royal Dye Works. This is shown on maps of the 1890s on the west side of the road.  It appears later to have been a Post Office Supplies Department. A dye works shown opposite in the 1890s is now at the rear of the British Grove Studios with an address in St. Peter’s Square
British Grove Works. This was used by Frederick Walton, the inventor and exploiter of linoleum who is said to have made the first sheet of lino here. He later patented this. His works and house here were on the west side of the road
Joinery Works. This was on the west side of the road,

Chiswick Common
This square covers only the western half of the common
This was once known as Back Common and was part of the Bishop of London's Fulham Manor, It remained rural until the mid -19th and was created as the area urbanised, rather than being traditional common land.. Prefabs were erected around the perimeter of the common for emergency housing following the Second World War
Drinking fountain provided by the Metropolitan Drinking Fountain Association in the 19th

Chiswick High Road
Chiswick High Road and Turnham Green constitute the main shopping area of Chiswick.
Houses which replaced Hammersmith and Chiswick Station. The station lay on the north side of the road on what is now Ravensmede Way.
25-29 Coach and Horses. This closed in 1992 and replaced with a facsimile in 2012. The current building was a Schooner Inn and later Jo Smo’s Bar and Diner, then Nacho’s. It is said to have had a stream running through the bar, a lit up coach and horses outside and to be full of entertainers from the BBC. It was licensed by 1761 and used by carters on their way to London. This was demolished in 1900.
70 The Power House. Built as a power station for the London United Electrical Tramway Company in 1899-1901 Designed by W.C.Green with a 200 ft steel chimney.  High car door, three brick sheds for 20 trams, etc. sidings for the Line off system trials car shed.  Machine shop and traverses.  Over the door were female figures of 'Electricity and Locomotion' and 'LVET'.  Inside was a carved staircase and gallery. The Power House continued to function as a sub-station until the closure of the trolley bus service in 1962. Its 260ft-high smoke stack was demolished in 1966.  Most of the site was owned by British European Airways and equipment was stored there. It is now called the Powerhouse and includes Metropolis Studios. It was converted in 1985 by David Clarke Associates, with flats tucked into the roof. The vast lower spaces have been imaginatively converted to recording studios by Powell- Tuck Connor & Orefelt, 1989.
74 Stamford Bridge Garage. This was originally the London United Tramways Chiswick Depot. It is an art deco building surmounted by a clock. It opened as a bus garage in 1980 after a two-year construction taking over from the Turnham Green Garage. . It had previously been used to operate the British European Airways bus service between Heathrow Airport and the West London Air Terminal. The garage closed in 1996 and became a store for unlicensed buses held for possible future use. In 1999 it reopened to cater for increased demand in the area.
80 Paragon. This was a shop turned into a J.J.Moons pub in 1992
94 Rambert Dance Company. ¬It is planned to turn this building into a cinema. Marie Rambert was a Polish dancer who turned to teaching and founded the Rambert Dancers in London in 1926. The company has flourished ever since to international acclaim. They left this building for the South Bank in 2013.
122 The Roebuck. This was the Chiswick Eyot in 1983, the Rat and Parrot in 1996 and the Bird Cage in 2002. It was also the Slug and Lettuce for a while. This was licensed from at least 1732, and was where the Manorial Court held their meetings. It had a bowling green and extensive stabling. The original building was demolished in 1890 and replaced by the present building with statues of deer on the gables.
145 Packhorse and Talbot. This was called The Pack Horse from 1698 until 1811. In 1698 people plotting to assassinate William III met here and 1725 when the landlord acted as a witness for highwayman, Jonathan Wild at his trial. It was also the meeting place of the Brentford Turnpike Trust between 1764 and 1776. It was rebuilt in the 1920s
160 The Old Cinema. This was built in 1887 as the Chiswick Hall and was converted into the Royal Cinema Electric Theatre in 1912. It closed in 1934. In 1939 it was a furniture shop and is now an antiques shop
Sulhampstead House. This was on the corner of Devonshire Road and was the home of chemist Professor William Brande of the Apothecaries’ Company and consultant to the early gas industry.
185 George IV. This dates from at least 1771 when it was called the Lord Boston’s Arms and the Boston Arms by 1790. It was taken over by Fuller, Smith & Turner in 1826 and the name changed to the George IV. It was rebuilt in 1931/2.  In 1838 an omnibus service ran from here to the City. It now hosts a comedy club.
Statue of Hogarth.  This statue is the work of Jim Mathieson and was unveiled in 2001 by Ian Hislop, assisted by David Hockney, patron of the statue appeal. The pug dog at Hogarth’s feet was unveiled by a pupil from William Hogarth School.
177-179 Prince of Wales. This pub closed in 1971 – the Prince of Wales badge is said to remain on the front of the building. The current building replaced a predecessor licensed by 1792. It ws rebuilt in the 1930s
197 All Bar One. This was the fire station the sign for which lies under the fascia.  The station was opened here in 1891 and operated there until 1963. It was built in 1891 and probably designed by Arthur Ramsden, surveyor to the local board. It has a clock tower which may be an early example of a hose tower. There is a helmet carved above the top window.
210 old Police Station. This was opened in 1872 and closed in 1972. It was associated with the police station in Brentford.
Linden House.  This was a large house fronting on to the main road after which Linden Gardens is named. In the late 18th it was home of Ralph Affleck, publisher of The Monthly Review and later of Thomas Wainwright, transported for fraud and possible murderer.
201 - 211 Police Station. This is on the site of Linden House and a later fire station. The site is also shown as a market in the 1930s. It was opened in 1972

Chiswick Lane
2 Convent for the Comboni Missionary Sisters of Verona opened a girls' hostel and nursery school opened here in 1951. There is an onsite chapel.
4 Tower House. This was built in 1875 and in 1901 was taken over by a French Roman Catholic Sisterhood, the Sisters of Perpetual Adoration, as the convent of Marie RĂ©paratrice, a closed order. They moved out in 1951 and were replaced by The Comboni Missionary Sisters, originally called the Verona Sisters. This Italian order was founded in 1872 to help the poorest in Central Africa and came to Britain in 1946. A wing was added in 1959, and used as the order's training centre in 1978. In 1996 the house was redeveloped as the Verona Court housing development.
10 Sisters of Mary Immaculate acquired this as Regina Pacis convent 1968.  A Kindergarten was opened 1969 and hall added 1972. Our Lady Queen of Peace Day Nursery
Homefields Recreation Ground. From 1966 Waste lands were acquired by the local board under the Metropolitan Commons Act, and laid out for recreation. Homefields and adjoining land east of Chiswick Lane were bought by the Urban District Council from the Ecclesiastical Commissioners in 1898, with help from the County Council.
Buttercups Lodge. Private day nursery in the recreation ground.
Thames Tideway Tunnel entry shaft.

Chiswick Mall
The river is unembanked: hence the small front gardens between street and water.
Oak Cottage.  This is probably early 19th and is thought to have been accommodation for the coachman for Walpole House coachman. Behind the house were the Thornycrofts’ stables and coach house and a large garden with greenhouses. One of the stables was later used as a studio by Victor Passmore
Orford House. Built in 1886 by John Belcher. It is thought to be on the sire of High House. In 1810 Charles Whittingham equipped High House as a printing works with a paper mill next door. The riverside location was probably selected because of its proximity to the draw dock, where barge-loads of old ships’ ropes from London and other dockyards could be unloaded; they were used to produce ink and paper. He founded The Chiswick Press here in 1811, later moving his presses to nearby College House.
High House. This was the first home of the Chiswick Press in 1816 and was near a draw dock where rope was unloaded. This was a printing works with an adjacent and associated paper mill. It was demolished in 1880.
Walpole House, Named after the nephew of Prime Minister, Sir Robert Walpole. Said to be the home of Charles II’s mistress Barbara Villiers. In the early 19th it was a school attended by the William Thackeray in 1817 – hence this is another candidate for Vanity Fair’s Miss Pinkerton’s Academy. It later became a training school for homeless girls.  In the 1880s it was owned by the Thorneycroft family and Thomas Thrneycrofts Boadicea statue – now on the Embankment - was housed in a workshop in the garden. The workshop was later used by John Thorneycroft for experimental motor vehicles, and still later became a gym.
Morton House. This is 17th and possibly older. A small fire insurance plate on the front shows Britannia with shield, spear and Irish harp. There is also a Sun insurance plate. The facade was extensively rebuilt in the 1950s.
30 Riverside Lodge. This is three town houses, built in 2011 by the architectural firm Rolfe Juddson with various environmental features. They are on the site of a hospital put up in 1935 itself on the site of the Rothbury House.  There is a replica plaque to the hospital “"To the Glory of God, this stone was laid by Dan Mason Esq, 29 February 1936".
Rothbury House. Was a 17th house. In the 19th it was the home of and of George Chibnall, owner of the bakery also in the Mall.
Hospital.  In 1911 Rothbury House was bought from Acton Council by Dan Mason, Cherry Blossom shoe polish.  He had previously funded a hospital near the works but this needed to be enlarged. Rothbury House became the administration block, and a new hospital was built in the grounds.   It opened in 1912 as a general hospital known as the Chiswick Hospital.  The main entrance was in Netheravon Road to the rear. Kitchens and staff quarters were located in Rothbury House. The hospital was entirely funded by Dan Mason and was entirely free to Chiswick residents in need and unable to pay medical fees. At the start of the Great War award was allocated to wounded soldiers and Mason provided an ambulance which he drove himself. After the war the hospital was extended and Mason created a trust for the future funding of it. In the 1930s Rothbury House and the hospital were demolished and rebuilt. The Second World War intervened and it was unable to open until 1943 when it was used as a maternity unit. After the war it became Chiswick Maternity Hospital and joined the NHS. It closed in 1975. It was later used as staff accommodation for Charing Cross Hospital.  In 1984 it beamed Chiswick Lodge, a nursing home for patients with neurological and neuropsychiatric disorders.  That has since been closed and demolished.
Boundary stone. This is in the wall opposite Cedar House at kerb level.

Cranbrook Road
83 Sipsmith ‘artisanal’ distillery. They moved to this site in 2014 and have the first copper still to be installed in London for nearly 200 years. It comes from Germany’s, Christian Carl and will distill both Barley Vodka and London Dry Gin. The swan motif on the Sipsmith trade mark is a reference to the "swan's neck" pipe where the spirit vapour turns above the still.

Devonshire Road
107 Duke of York. This was originally built as part of Chiswick New Town.  It was acquired by Fuller, Smith and Turner in 1834 and rebuilt in 1927.
126 Devonshire Arms. This was originally the Manor Tavern, rebuilt in 1924 by Nowell Parr
Parish Hall. This is shown on maps at the south east end of the road before the Second World War and the subsequent widening of the Great West Road.

Devonshire Street
Magdalene House, this is on the site of the church of St. Mary Magdalene
Hogarth Infants School, this had opened in 1920 in Hogarth Lane and moved to Devonshire Street in 1956.

Duke Road
Hogarth Road Board School. These were primary and nursery schools, opened here in 1884 by the London school Board.
St Marys Roman Catholic Schools. This moved here in 1964 from a site in Acton Lane into the building which had formerly been the Hogarth Schools.
William Hogarth Primary Schools. This opened in 2001 in the old buildings of the Hogarth Primary Schools. They had moved to a new building in 1958,

Eyot Gardens
This road was the southern section of St.. Peter's Square
Eyot Works. This was a works set up by William Benson who established a foundry at Chiswick, a showroom in Kensington and thus new purpose-built factory, Eyot to mass produce domestic items from kettles to firescreens. Many of Benson's designs were patented and he opened a showroom inNew Bond Street. Benson's wares were also sold from the showroom of Morris & Co. He designed furniture for J. S. Henry & Co and grates etc. for the Coalbrookdale and Falkirk foundries. He became managing director of Morris and Co. after Morris's death in 1896

Eyot Green
This is a small group of houses set around a garden which was once the tennis court of Walpole House. It was, built in 1960 by the architect Edward Armitage.

Flanders Road
Keene’s Automobile Works.  Keene were early 20th car dealers and repairers, who took over the Bedford Park Stores in Bath Road. They built a works to the rear of the building in 1903 with room for 250 cars. They developed a 14 horse-power steam car called the `Keenelet', but they failed in 1904.
H.J. Mulliner took over the Keene premises in 1908 and undertook coachwork for various motor manufacturers, including Rolls Royce and Daimler. They were a branch of a long established Northampton coach builder. In the Second World War they built gliders and in 1959 the firm was acquired by Rolls Royce having previously been controlled by the Croall Company of Edinburgh. They closed in 1968
Mulliner House. Offices on the site of the car factory
Bollards at the east end of the road mark what was the original end of the road where it met the north/south running North and South West London Junction Rail Line, defunct from the 1950s.

Fraser Street
Chiswick Christian Centre. This was previously Chiswick Mission. This was set up in 1890. By nineteen year old Robert Thomson Smith. He was a clerk at Thornycrofts, who tried to prevent heavy drinking by Thornycroft employees. Initially he up a coffee stall and went on to set up the mission helped with money from Thorneycroft’s and was later given land by the Watts family..  This also undertook a social role providing breakfasts for children, dinner for men, and coal and coke for the poor.  The mission, as the Christian Centre, is now part of the Elim Pentecostal Church following support for a new centre in the 1980s from Kensington Temple Church. The church still undertakes a social support role with many initiatives to the local community.

Gainsborough Road
North and South West London Junction Rail Line.  This now defunct railway ran down the backs of the houses in this road although most of the houses were built later than the railway.

Glebe Street
Chiswick Glebe Street Board School. This opened in 1877 as for girls and infancies. The girls left in 1884 and the whole school closed in 1926.
2 appears to be in housing or office use. This dates from the construction of the road and appears to have a later back extension. The front appears to be a small religious building, or a works.

Goldhawk Road
Stamford Brook. The brook crossed the road in the vicinity of Stamford Brook Underground Station.
Queen Charlotte maternity hospital. This large hospital site had a fringe in this square but is largely in the square to the east and will be dealt with there.
Stamford Brook Station. Opened in 1912 to runs between Turnham Green and Ravenscourt Park Stations on the District Line originally the Metropolitan District Railway.  The line itself was opened in 1869 by the London and South Western Railway as part of a new branch line to Richmond from the West London Joint Railway; however, no stations were built between the then Hammersmith Grove Road station and Turnham Green.  By 1912 rhea line was used by the District Railway as well as the L&SWR and at this time the station was opened with a building constructed by the District Railway.  It had one island platform and was used only by the District line trains and by 1916 the District alone used the line. In the 1930s, the owners of the District and Piccadilly lines rebuilt the line between Hammersmith and Acton Town to allow the Piccadilly to come to Hammersmith from Uxbridge and Hounslow, and thus from  1932  Piccadilly line trains began to run through Stamford Brook,.  This meant that the layout of the station had to be reconfigured and a side platform was opened. However eastbound Piccadilly line trains still cannot stop at the station. In 1964 Stamford Brook was the first underground station to have an automatic ticket barrier installed.
368 Chiswick Ambulance Station. This is a satellite station for Hanwell and has three ambulances.
375 The Raven. The Raven is said to date from 1839 and to have been a stable block. Its licensing records appear to begin in 1862 when it was known as ‘The Raven Tavern’. It does appear to have a carriage entrance which has been added onto the north side of the building which could have led to stables at the rear.
407 Chiswick Rooms. Boutique Hotel

Great West Road
This was the new a built to bypass Brentford and Hounslow by Middlesex County Council, first planned around 1920.

Millers Court,
This was built in 1970 on the site of Miller's bakery by Chapman & Taylor. The baker was originally Chibnall’s bakery, established in the 1880s and taken over by Miller’s in the 1940s. It closed in 1966.

Prince of Wales
The road ran at the back of what was the Prince of Wales Pub.
Chiswick Indoor Cricket School. This was held in a hall at the back of the George IV pub

Priory Avenue
Priory House. Chiswick and Bedford Park Preparatory School. This private school is said to have been established in 1915.  The building has a history as a series of private school. It was the Bedford Park School which joined Bedford Park high school in 1895 as Chiswick and Bedford Park high school, here, later this was Bedford Park college, bought around  1932 by Mme Fellowes, and  renamed it Chiswick and Bedford Park high. This continued and was managed by her daughters in 1979.

Ravensmede Way
Hamnmersmith and Chiswick Station. This is built on the site of the Hammersmith and Chiswick Station of the North and South West Junction Railway and its associated goods yard and sidings.  It opened in 1858 as ‘Hammersmith’. In 1880 the name was changed to ‘Hammersmith and Chiswick’.  A private house on the north side of Chiswick High Road was used as the station – this stood on the site of the first new houses east of 44 Chiswick High Road. .  The ticket office in the front door and the stationmaster lived upstairs. Trains ran from here to Acton Gatehouse Junction and the line took coal trains for various factories.  There was one very long platform and although a second set of rails was laid it is unclear if there was ever a second platform or if one was indeed ever planned. With the introduction of the rail motors in 1909 a shorter wooden platform was built on the main platform with a short canopy with a wooden wall as a shelter. The ticket office then closed and tickets had to be bought from the guard but they did not sell through tickets to other lines. In 1917 it was closed. The station was later re-converted back to a house and a shop and remained into the 1970s. A tree behind some of the houses may be that shown in photographs of the rear of the station building.
Sidings for the coal depot – there were extensive sidings paralleling the station platform, on its east side.

Thornton Avenue
Nursery. The area enclosed by this road is probably the site of f James Scott’s nursery was there from 1740 to 1760. From 1785 was the nursery of Richard Williams, who specialized in heathers, introduced exotic plants, and marketed the improved 'William' pear

Stamford Brook
The boundary of the 1889 county of London the westernmost Stamford Brook between the Metropolitan Boroughs of Hammersmith and Acton from the Chiswick and Brentford Urban Districts in Middlesex

St Peters Square
The public garden was bought by Metropolitan Borough of Hammersmith and in 1915 was opened to the public.
The Greek Runner, by William Blake Richmond. This was installed in the gardens in 1926.
22 This includes the buildings from an old laundry dye works in British Grove to the rear which was converted into an architects' studio and office building. In the basement is the former studio of Island Records known as The Fallout Shelter. Many musicians began their careers or recorded in the building. It was awarded a Hammersmith Society Conservation award plaque

The Avenue
Shops. These were built in 1924 on the front garden of Bedford House.
Bedford House. This was built by John Bedford in 1793. He was a furniture and builder. The house was the home of botanist John Lindley between 1836 and 1865 and was then bought by Hamilton Fulton who was father-in-law of Jonathan Carr. Carr went on to develop Bedford Park estate, and this included the grounds of Bedford House. The house has been converted into flats.
Park Club. This was designed in 1878 by Norman Shaw and later enlarged to include a theatre.  It was seen as a centre for artistic endeavour along with talk about every possible subject. Here both men and women were allowed to participate in political discussion. Alongside this were dances, plays, concerts and all sorts of social events. It closed in 1939 and is now a Buddhist Centre.
London Buddhist Viharam Dharmapala Building This is a centre for Theravada Buddhism.  The Vihasra was founded in 1926 by Anagairka Djarmapala as the first Buddhist monastery to be established outside Asia. It has a community of resident bhikkhus from Sri Lanka. In 1994 they moved to this site in the Avenue

Turnham Green Terrace
Turnham Green Station. This opened in 1869 and lies between Hammersmith and Acton Town Stations on the Piccadilly Line and also between Stamford Brook and Chiswick Park Stations on the District Line. It was opened by the London and South Western Railway as its new branch line to Richmond.  In 1877, the District Railway also began to use the line from its terminus at Hammersmith to go to Richmond.  The line was also used by the Great Western Railway and by the Midland Railway for short lived services. The District Railway’s services were however successful and in 1879 they began to run trains from here to Ealing Broadway. In 1882 the name was changed to Turnham Green (Bedford Park). The Distract Line tracks were electrified through here in 1903 and by 1916 they were the sole operator. Meanwhile the station was rebuilt and reopened on 1911, plus a new signal box.  In the early 1930s, the London Electric Railway, precursor of the London Underground and owner of both District and Piccadilly lines provided lines to allow the Piccadilly line to run to Uxbridge and Hounslow as an express service which meant a fast line added to the stopping tracks at this station. Them Piccadilly line trains began stopping here in the early mornings and late evenings and there have been moves to extend this. Turnham Green was one of the stations used for the testing of experimental automatic ticket barriers later adopted throughout the network
John Compton Organ Company Ltd. Crompton had first set up business in Nottingham but in 1919 he moved to workshops at Turnham Green Terrace which had been vacated by August Gern. In 1930 he moved to Park Royal. He worked primarily on electric-action pipe organs and electronic organs. These included the Melotone, the Theatrone and The Electrone.  The company were awarded many original patents for simple organ mechanisms as well as the most complex, state of the art electronic and electrical inventions.
August Gern was a French organ builder, famous for building the organ in Notre Dame. He came to England in the late 19th and built some church organs here.

Welsted Way
This road was built on the line of the North and South West Junction Railway as it ran into Hammersmith Station. It passes below what was the London and South West Railway's Kensington to Richmond line, which since 1877 had carried the Metropolitan District Railway, now the District Line. The tracks splayed out into sidings on the approach to the terminus shortly after leaving Bath Road Halt.
Engine Shed. This was north of the LSWR Bridge and was still in use in 1873 but was demolished later. The line only had one locomotive which was housed here.

Acton Electricity
Allinson & Thornton. A Guide to London's Contemporary Architecture
Arthure. Life and Work in Old Chiswick.  
Bedford Park Residents Association. Web site
Brentford and Chiswick Local History Society. Web site
British Grove Studios Web site
British History online. Hounslow. Web site
Chiswick. Baptist Church. Web site
Chiswick Christian Centre. Web site
Cinema Theatre Association Newsletter
Cinema Treasures. Web site
Clegg. Chiswick History. Web site
Clegg. The Chiswick Book.
Clunn. The Face of London
Coleman. Frederick Walton and the Birth of Linoleum
Day.  London’s Underground
Disused Stations. Web site
Forsyth. Buildings for the Age 
Fulham and Hammersmith History Society. Buildings to see in Fulham and Hammersmith 
Glazier. London Transport Bus Garages
Hogarth Trust. Web site
London Borough of Hammersmith and Fulham. Web site
London Borough of Hounslow. Web site
London’s Industrial Archaeology 5
London Railway Record
Lost Hospitals of London. Web site
O’Connor. Forgotten Stations
Parklife London. Web site
Pevsner and Cherry. North West London
Reed. Pissarro in West London
Robbins. Middlesex
Robbins. The North London Railway
Stevenson. Middlesex
Tabard, Web site
Thames Basin Archaeology of Industry Group. Report
Trench and Hillman. London Under London. 
Walford. Village London
Williams. London and South West Railway

Saturday, 22 October 2016

Riverside west of the Tower and north of the river. Old Chiswick

This post gives sites north of the river only. South of the river is Lonsdale Road

Post to the south Dukes Meadows. More Sport and Barnes
Post to the east Castelnau
Post to the north Chiswick Riverside to Bedford Park
Post to the west Chiswick Grove Park

Alexandra Avenue
This stretch of road is called Great Chertsey Road on some maps, but not on others. The whole road was originally called Alexandra Avenue, but some of it has been changed.

Bennett Street
Office block. This was the White Swan pub. This was closed in the 1980s and is now flats and offices.

Bollo Brook
This brook comes into the area from its origins on Ealing Common. It was the original boundary of Lord Burlington’s estate in Chiswick and was widened and canalised when the grounds were landscaped in the 1720s, The brook fed the lakes and fountains at but is now carried in a pipe underneath the lake because on the dirty water from the many local laundries. It then goes by culvert underneath the main A316 to its outfall into the Thames. The line of the brook is now that of the Promenade Approach Road.

Burlington Lane
8 George and Devonshire. This originates in a 17th building and two cottages which Thomas Mawson, the brewer, bought in 1700. This was known as the George but by 1826, the name Devonshire had been added because of the local presence of the Dukes of Devonshire. There are stories of a smugglers' tunnel between here and the river and there is a bricked up doorway in the pub. The care park and function room are the sire of the stables.
Hogarth Business Park – this trading estate is being rebuilt as housing by Berkeley Homes.
Hogarth Business Park. This complex of offices and warehouses replaced the Cherry Blossom boot polish factory in the 1980s. Business Park. Some buildings here were by Covell Matthews Wheatley from 1985 onwards.
Cherry Blossom. The Cherry Blossom polish works was first of all the Chiswick Soap Company owned by brothers Dan and Charles Mason in 1878. The soap works was on a small part of the site later covered by the trading estate. Their works grew however to cover a large area a between Burlington and Hogarth Lanes – including the site of a large house in grounds called Providence House.  They wanted make use the 5-inch circular pieces of tin-plate which they had as a by-product. They thought of making smaller tins which could contain shoe polish – but one which would not rub off on clothing. Cherry Blossom Boot Polish was invented by their chemist and was launched in 1906, at 1d per tin to become a big success. The works expanded into a triangular-shaped site between Hogarth and Burlington Lanes where they made a range of shoe and household polishes, including Mansion House Polish. The Chiswick Soap Company changed its name in 1913 to the Chiswick Polish Company and went public in 1916. The name changed again in 1930 when Chiswick Polish amalgamated with the Nugget Polish Company to become Chiswick Products Ltd. In 1954 the business was acquired by Reckitt and Colman and Production ended here in 1972 when they transferred work to their main factory at Hull.  Cherry Blossom is still however a market leader.
St Marys Convent and St Josephs’ Hospital. This was originally an Anglican convent run by the Order of St Mary and St John. Founded in Kensington in 1868. It is now the Order of St Margaret. In 1896 they bought land from the Duke of Devonshire for the convent which was an Arts and Crafts style by building Charles Ford Whitcombe. It included St Joseph’s Hospital for Incurables. After the introduction of the National Health Service this was replaced with a residential home for the elderly and 1986 the name St. Joseph’s was dropped
Corney House (or Lodge). This was a 19th house on the corner of Powells Walk not the 16th riverside house of the same name. It was demolished for road widening in the 1930s
The Cedars. Built in the early 1860s. It was taken over by Cherry Blossom around 1911 and the Laboratory and Men's Canteen built in what had been the grounds. There was also an aviary owned by Dan Mason. The house was used as Stores, and the ground floor rooms used for carton making machines.

Chiswick Eyot
Marked as ‘Chiswick Ait’ on Greenwood's map of 1819. In the 17th there are records of it being called ‘Twigg Eight’ 1650 – island with brushwood'.'. It is thought that it may have been the site of a prehistoric stilted village and later a Danish encampment. In the 1930s the local authority bought it from the Ecclesiastical Commissioners and it is now a nature reserve. It has however been subject to severe erosion and is submerged at high tide and is thus uninhabited
Green pole. This is at the end of the island and is to tome rowers on the boat race course.

Chiswick House and Grounds
Chiswick House. This square covers only the site of the house and the area of the park to the east of it. Chiswick House. The original house, visited by James I, stood to the east of the present building. This was owned by Sir Edward Wardour, and possibly built by his father aeound.1610. He sold it to to Robert Carr, 1st Earl of Somerset in 1624 and in 1682 it was sold to Charles Boyle.
Chiswick House.  This is a Palladian villa designed by Richard Boyle, Lord Burlington, and completed in 1729.  The design was very shocking when it was built – it is not actually a house but a ‘temple to the arts’ and used as a picture gallery. It may include some Masonic symbolism.   Until the 1780s was used as an extension to the main house. After Burlington’s death in 1753 property eventually passed, by marriage, to William Cavendish, 4th Duke of Devonshire and then to his children. Under the Cavendish family the house was a Whig stronghold where both Charles James Fox and George Canning died. During the 19th it was rented and became an asylum. In 1929, the 9th Duke sold it to Middlesex County Council, and it became a fire station. It was hit by a V2 in 1944 and the wings were demolished in 1956.  It is now maintained by English Heritage.
Chiswick House Gardens. This square covers only the gardens to the east of the house. The gardens were created by architect and landscape designer William Kent. They were inspired by and are an attempt to symbolically recreate a garden of ancient Rome
Conservatory.  This 300ft long conservatory was one of the earliest large glasshouses to be built and the longest such structure for its date. It was designed by Samuel Ware for the Duke of Devonshire in 1820 and overlooks the Italian garden. It was rebuilt in the 1930s and has recently been completely restored with a new frame and glass. In 1828, it was planted with camellias and some original plans remain and it is thus the oldest such collection in England and includes some very rare plants.
Italian Garden.  In 1814, the 6th Duke of Devonshire, commissioned Lewis Kennedy to design a semi-circular 'Italian Garden' in front of the Conservatory. The beds were laid out in geometric patterns and in 1880 the then head gardener, Michael May, simplified the layout and this design remains.
Southern Walled Garden. This has planting of 140 fruit trees and soft fruit. The walled gardens were originally part of the neighbouring Moreton Hall estate which the 6th Duke of Devonshire bought in 1812, incorporating the gardens into a larger productive area to support Chiswick House. Before this the area was a wilderness garden. It is now to be dedicated to horticulture with a quarter taken up with a lawn for events and activities. Archaeology has discovered what may be a shove house.  There is also a domed brick well capped with a Portland stone slab
Doric column and rosary. The Doric column is thought to have been designed by Lord Burlington in about 1729 and is surmounted by Venus d’Medici.  It is surrounded by the rosary with a 19thb radial layout of paths
Deer House. This stands at the end of a Ha-ha stands a Deer House and was designed by Lord Burlington. There was originally another Deer House. Both had pyramidal roofs and 'Virtuvian' doors. As Orangery, was also associated with the Deer Houses in this area,
Inigo Jones Gateway. This replaced the second Deer House which was demolished for it in 1738.  This had been at Beaufort House in Chelsea from 1621 and was bought and removed by Lord Burlington and rebuilt in the gardens here in 1738
Cafe. Designed by Caruso St John

Chiswick Lane South
This is now a short lane leading to the river and cut off from its northern continuation to Chiswick High Road by A4. It is almost entirely taken up with the brewery.
Griffin Brewery, In the late 1600s, there was a private brew house in the gardens of Bedford House on Chiswick Mall and another nearby in the cottage of Thomas Urlin. His son in law was Thomas Mawson who took over as manager at Urlin’s death. He bought the George and then the Bedford House brew house. By 1786 David Roberts had the premises. Handing on to his sons, and in 1816, it began to be called the Griffin name taking the name over from Meux and Reid’s whose business had collapsed. The Thompson brothers were joined by Philip Wood, in the partnership, and then John Fuller. Fuller was wealthy and was soon the majority shareholder. By 1843 the Thompsons were no longer involved and a younger Fuller was in charge. From 1845 it was known as Fuller Smith & Turner which continues. The partnership acquired the Beehive at Brentford in 1910 and Wiche Brewery in 1923, By 1970 Fuller’s had-a considerable trade supplying theatres and clubs.  The brewery produced London Pride bitter, E.S.B. and Hock Mild.  Apart from these draught beers bottled London Pride was available and Golden Pride, a bottled barley wine.  They also had about a hundred tied houses, most close to the Brewery. The central part of the original 18th building built as the owner's house is now offices. The brewery buildings were rebuilt in 1979-81 but some original remains. It is now the only remaining large scale traditional brewery in London

Chiswick Mall
Riverside gardens. The gardens along the Mall are private and were created in the 1880s as part of a scheme to use river embankments for mains carrying water, sewage, gas etc.
Old Vicarage. This old Parsonage House was built in 1657-8 following a decision of the Vestry in 1652. In the late 18th changed to have a stuccoed front and a window on the Mall. It was sold in 1973
Vicarage. This was built in 1973 when the old vicarages were sold in what had been the grounds of the building.
Woodroffe House. This is a 17th red-brick building.By 1819, together with its neighbouring houses to the east, it was part of the Lamb Brewery estate owned by the Sich family until 1923.
Bedford House. This was built in the mid-17th along with the house next door. By 1829, the tenant was the first John Sich, owner of the Lamb brewery who was there until 1836. The Brewhouse was at the back of the house. Recent residents include Michael Redgrave, from 1945 to 1954.
Gazebo. In the grounds of Bedford House, mid-l8th Gothic.
Eynham House. This was originally part of Bedford House in the 17th. Like its neighbours there are exit gates at the back into the brewery yard in case of flooding.
Barn behind Eynham House is an 18th brick barn originally the stables for brewery horses
White Bear and Whetstone Inn. This was here in the 18th,.  In the pub is an old whetstone, with a plaque  "I am the old whetstone, and have sharpened tools on this spot above 1,000 years".
Thames View House. The house carries a Civic Trust Award plaque for flood defence work carried out along the Mall by the Greater London Council in 1979.
Belle Vue House. This was owned by the Griffin Brewery and the house was the traditional home of the chief brewer
Crane - Opposite Belle Vue there was a mobile crane used by the brewery for transhipment from barges. It was also used by Cherry Blossom to unload wax.
1 Belle Vue Cottages.  This is one of a terrace of cottages standing behind the brewery building. This cottage is at right angles to the road forming part of a group around a courtyard. There are granite setts and an 18th gate piers and gate.
Red Lion House. This was built soon after 1700 for Thomas Mawson’s brewery. It was licensed by 1722.  There was then a drawdock opposite. Outside was a whetstone used by osier cutters for sharpening tools with the inscription "I am the old whetstone, and have sharpened tools on this spot above 1, 00(0) years".  It is now in Gunnersbury Park Museum. By 1915 the pub had lost its licence when it was still a Fullers pub. Since then it has been a private house.
Buildings of the Griffin Brewery
Prebendal Manor House for St Paul’s Cathedral, built in 1570. This was on the site of a 19th terrace which goes between Heron House and Thames Bank.   It became the home of a friend of John Evelyn. The building later became College House – named because of a relationship with Westminster school.  The school used it as rural retreat after 1571 and retained it until the 18th. The Whittington Press was here in the 19th. Later, after 1852, it was occasionally used as a lecture hall, and in 1875, just before it was demolished, Ellen Terry played there.
Chiswick Press. This was in College House from 1818 to 1852 owned by the Whitingham family. They produced hand-printed and finely designed books with woodcut engravings. It had previously been in High House from 1816.  Whittingham had patented a method of extracting tar from old rope and they used the hemp from ship's ropes for paper and had a steam engine on site. The extracted tar was used to make the ink. In 1852 under Charles Whittingham it moved to the City of London.
Thames Bank. In the Second World War this was an infants’ school here for children who remained in London. It later moved to Hammersmith
College House.and space This is a space to the east of Thames Bank House. I papers to have been left vacant because it was planned to build a bridge across the Thames here with a section based on Chiswick Eyot. The house on the site dares from the 1980s
Greenash. House originally called Eyot Villa. It was built in   1882 by Belcher for Sir John Thorneycroft. It was converted to flats by E. Musman in 1934. In 1941 it was turned into a hostel for people suffering trauma from bombing

Chiswick Pier
The Pier House is managed by the Chiswick Pier Trust with a hall and conference room for hire. The Trust holds events to educate people about the river, its ecology and history. This pier provides eight residential moorings and visitor moorings with all-tide access, and pump out and shower facilities. It was opened in 1997
Chiswick Pier Canoe Club was formed in 1999
Thames Explorer Trust. This was founded in 1988 as an educational charity which promotes access to the Thames from source to sea. While providing activities to increase access to the river. They raise awareness of working beside rivers and haw to manage risk.
Chiswick Sea Cadets. They are based on the pier and keep their vessels there.
RLNI Lifeboat Station. This is one of is one of four lifeboat stations on the Thames operational since 2002, providing a round-the-clock rapid response service. They cover upstream Richmond Lock to Battersea Power Station.

Chiswick Square
This is a group of houses around a small gates area off Burlington Lane. It dates from around 1680 and forms a sort of forecourt to Boston House
Boston House. This dates from the 1680s and is apparently named after Viscount Boston later the Earl of Grantham who extended it in the 1740s. In the early 19th it was a school and it is claimed that this is the original of Miss Pinkerton’s academy in Thackeray’s novel Vanity Fair and there is a plaque to that effect.  In 1899 it became St Veronica’s Retreat for women who were problem drinkers. In 1922 it was bought by Cherry Blossom as a social club for female staff.   The surrounding buildings were let out to employees as homes. The grounds were turned into a sports club.  It is now flats - and the grounds now housing development,

Chiswick Wharf
Chiswick Wharf.  This is a terrace of townhouses built in the 1980s on a site known as Church Wharf.

Church Street
Slipway. This is a public slipway with a 19th stone causeway runs into the river. It was the site of a ferry service to what is now Lonsdale Road in Barnes. It was also used by local fisherman and in the 19th a fleet of eel boats operated here. The slip and causeway were renovated in 2077.
Residential boats. These moorings were established as a response to housing shortages in the Second World War. Houseboats moored here include Greenwich built Leonard Piper.
1-7 these modern town houses are part of the Chiswick Wharf development. They replace industrial sites on an area once known as 'Slut’s Hole' and occupied by river workers.
St Nicholas. The church is dedicated to St.Nicholas, the patron saint of fishermen. The earliest mention of it is in 1181, with reference to St. Paul’s Cathedral and the Prebendal Manor of ‘Chesewic’ had been created. It stands on a narrow site which means it is almost as long as it is wide. The poet John Donne was Prebend here in 1625.  The church as it stands now dates from 1635 with a tower, now the oldest part of the church, built in 1435. The tower has eight bells, five from 1656, and there are links with Oliver Cromwell through his daughter. Excluding the tower, the church was rebuilt in 1882-1884 by ecclesiastical architect, John Loughborough Pearson.
Churchyard. This has the graves of several important artists and architects. William Hogarth is here with an epitaph by Garrick. Another painter, Philipp de Loutherbourg is buried in a tomb designed by Sir John Soane and William Kent, architect and designer is also buried here. Charles Tilston Bright who laid the first Atlantic Cable is also here. There is a tablet saying that the wall was built in 1623 by Francis Russell to keep pigs out. The extension to the church yard, which closed in the 1850s, is reached from Corney Road.
St. Deny’s House. This is described as the curate's house and is the ancillary building for the church standing opposite it. It is named after the Community of St. Denys an Anglican religious order of nuns founded in 1879. The building was used until 1973 to house a satellite community of three sisters. It now is used by a variety of community based organisations. It was purchased by the parish in the late 1990s and has since been extended to the rear to provide a church hall.
The Old Burlington. This was the Burlington Arms established in around 1550 and closed in 1924. It is thought to be the oldest, non ecclesiastical, remaining in Chiswick. It is said to have a cupboard outside it in which to lock up drunks. It was one of two pubs which stood on either side of the Lamb Brewery entrance. It is now flats.
Lamb Cottage. This was the Lamb Tap - Tap for the Lamb Brewery which was adjacent. It was of two pubs which stood either side of the brewery entrance.  It was a pub from at least 1732 to 1909. It is now a private house.
Lamb Brewery. Between the two pubs runs a lane marking the entrance to the Lamb Brewery. Down the lane are the brewery remains. The brewery was purchased in 1790 by coal merchant John Sich based on an older brew house in the grounds of Bedford House. It was acquired by the Isleworth Brewery Ltd in 1920, closed and the plant sold in 1922. Some buildings were bought by Fullers who subsequently sold to the Standard Yeast Company who used them until 1952 and now used as offices. A complex of buildings remain largely converted to flats and dominated by the red brick tower built in the early 20th and with ‘Lamb Brewery’ painted around the top storey. It was designed by brewery architect William Bradford with dormer windows, fancy ironwork and other decorative features. There is a water tank at the top and the brewery operated it on the gravity system.
Standard Yeast. The firm produced yeast and other ‘baker’s sundries’. They gave their address however as ‘Lamb’s Distillery’.
Guardship. This building was a store for the Lamb Brewery in the 19th when beer was pumped under Church Street to the cellar where it was stored for ageing and conditioning before delivery. The pipes and an internal lift are said to be still extant. Bottled beer was also stored here. Hops were stored on the upper floor and the remains of a crane are visible. The building was later used by a silversmith who stored his collection of ship models and had a figurehead, a ship's wheel and anchor sign were on the outside. The name of ‘Guardship’ relates to its use by the Sea Scouts in the 1920s.
7 The Post Office, this 18th building retains a shop window

Church Wharf
In the early 19th this had been it was a cluster of cottages known as Slut's Hole, later renamed Fisherman's Place
Thornycroft’s shipyard. John Thorneycroft was a shipbuilder and the son of Thorneycroft, the sculptor.Founded in 1864, the firm specialised in high-speed vessels, first launches and later torpedo boats and then torpedo boat destroyers. Their first steam launch, Nautilus, could keep up with the rowing eights on boa trace day, which caused a sensation. Vessels were designed by John Thornycroft who worked in partnership with his brother-in-law John Donaldson from 1873.  Their high-speed launches included the Sir Arthur Cotton which in 1874 claimed to be to be the fastest vessel in the world. Torpedo-boats formed the main output in the 1880s, 222 being built for the British and foreign navies between 1874 and 1891, followed from 1893–4 by the first torpedo-boat destroyers. However the increasing size and speed of the craft made it difficult to negotiate bridges downstream and the increased draught of the destroyers meant superstructures such as masts, funnels etc, had to be removed and refitted at Greenhithe. Thornycrofts built their last naval vessels at Chiswick in 1905–6 and had finally left for Southampton in 1909.
Gwynne's Works. The Thornycroft site was acquired by Gwynne's Engineering which had begun as a firm of pump makers in central London. They moved to Hammersmith from the 1860s and took over the Thorneycroft site in 1917.  They made aircraft engines for the Admiralty during the Great War and, later, cars following their acquisition of the Albert Car business. Car production was moved to Chiswick and in 1923 the name of the car was changed to Gwynne-Albert. In 1922 Gwynnes started to make the Gwynne Eight, based on the design of the Spanish Victoria car. Financial problems arose in 1923 and a receiver was appointed, but production continued. About 2,250 examples of the Eight were made. A larger model of car, the Gwynne Ten, was offered from 1927. About 600 were made before production ceased. The company was dissolved in 1927 and left Church Wharf in 1930.
Reckitt and Coleman. This Hull based firm had taken over Cherry Blossom in 1954.  Wax had been delivered by barge to Church Wharf under Cherry Blossom and as Reckett and Coleman in 1952 they build a large brick warehouse here. This was demolished in 1980.
National School. This is shown on 19th maps on Church Wharf backing onto the churchyard.  This is presumably the charity school founded in 1707 and which expanded until 1813 when the boys moved elsewhere. In 1819 it became a National School the girls remaining at Church Wharf. And the building here was still extant in 1923 when it was repaired and it was demolished in. 1951.
Regency Quay.  Housing in a gated development.

Corney Reach Way
Corney Reach development, this is an estate of flats and houses built on the riverside between Church Wharf and Pumping Station Road in the mid 1990s. This area was the estate of the old Corney House developed as an industrial area in the 19th.
Old Corney House. This was first built on the riverside by the Bishop of Rochester. In 1542 it was conveyed to John Russell, who became the 1st Earl of Bedford and it remained with Russell family until 1659 when it was sold. The house was demolished before 1705 and a new house and tenements built. It subsequently passed through several owners. The house and grounds were sold at auction, in 1829, and bought by the Duke of Devonshire.
LEP Transport Ltd. The firm had its main packing department here. LEP Transport was a freight company established in London in 1910 but originating in the 1890s in Le Havre. The company name was derived from the initials of the three founding partners; Longstaff, Ehrenberg and Pollack.  It eventually closed in the 1990s.
Valor. This Birmingham based firm is said to have had a works here. They made oil fired domestic heating equipment, moving later to gas fires. This works was still extant in the 1990s.

Corney Road
Chiswick Old Cemetery. This was originally designed as an extension to the adjacent churchyard. At the entrance from Powell's Walk concerning the donation of the land by the Duke of Devonshire. By the north wall is the bronze tomb of painter James McNeill Whistler, and there are other artists as well as politicians and soldiers. There is an empty mausoleum for Italian writer Ugo Foscolo. There is a Great War Memorial by Sir Reginald Blomfield for the Imperial War Graves Commission in 1919 in Portland stone with a bronze crusader sword. It is backed by a screen wall bearing the names of those whose graves are not marked by headstones
Chiswick’s Municipal Stables, these were at the Corney Road depot. The stable block was built in 1910 to accommodate horses used by Chiswick UDC for carting refuse. The horses were tethered in stalls on the ground floor, while fodder was stored and processed above. Lighting was by electricity from the Chiswick Electrical Supply Corporation. The stall divisions were surplus stock from the London General Omnibus Company and were bought at auction in 1909 and the stables were planned around them.  The stables formed part of the small complex of buildings concerned with cartage and refuse disposal. In 1911 a farrier’s shop was added to an existing smithy and in 1913 an isolation stable was erected. In 1914 a committee recommended the purchase of two steam and two motor lorries. By the early 1920s the number of horses had declined and a garage for motor vehicles had been built.

Devonshire Road
109 The Feathers. This pub stood on the corner of the Hogarth Roundabout. Closed in 1999 to be replaced by a car showroom.
Landmark Car Co.  This is a very large and dramatic car showroom which also contains the Landmark Gallery; which they claim to be an art collection “associated with the automobile”. Outside is the UK's largest digital LED panoramic advertising screen.

Edensor Road
Whittingham Court. This is a rebuild of six almshouses, under a Scheme of 1934. It was planned in 1971 and carried out by Chiswick Parochial Charities, with money from the sale of the Hopkin Morris homes. Eighteen flats, were opened a in 1976
Cavendish Primary School. This opened in 1952. It was built on concrete stilts to raise it above the flood level and was built in a modular fashion with sections pre-fabricated in concrete and then brought to site for assembly. With the opening of the Thames barrier the flood risk was removed and the underside of the school was enclosed to create a nursery.
Dukes Meadows Children’s Centre along with the Riverside Community Day Nursery this is on the Cavendish School site.
Gates to the Promenade Approach Road. These have inscriptions with the road name. The Duke of York opened the road in 1926. It was then the vehicle and pedestrian entrance to the newly built riverside promenade and recreational area of Dukes Meadows. Following the erection of a flood barrier in the park in the 1940s the road was cut off from the main area of the park. The main gates then were closed at the Edensor Road entrance to only allow pedestrian access only.
New Chiswick Swimming pool. This is Council owned on the southern side of Edensor Road. It is a 25 metre indoor swimming pool, gym, and associated facilities. Chiswick Pool was first built in 1910 as an open air lido with a second pool opened in 1931. The pools were closed in 1981 and the New Chiswick Pool was built in the early 1990s by a private developer as part of the redevelopment of the site

Great Chertsey Road
The road from the Hogarth Roundabout running south west as the A316 is partly known as the Great Chertsey Road – and by some as that throughout its length. On this square it reaches as far as the corner with the non-A316 section of Burlington Lane. It was built and designed in the 1930s as part of a grand arterial roads programme. The first section through Chiswick was the only part of the route to have the A316 number.

Hogarth Lane
This road, leaving the Hogarth Roundabout, is a section of what was the Great West Road, A4, leading to the start of the M4. It is described as ‘essentially just a slip road’ leading eventually to the M4 and the Chiswick flyover. It is phenomenally busy.
McCormack House is the large building on the south west corner of the Hogarth Roundabout. It was, built 1985 on the site of an office block of the Chiswick Polish Company (aka Cherry Blossom aka Reckitt and Coleman). It was originally called Flemming House and then as the Axis Centre or Axis House.  It was built by Covell Matthews Wheatley in 1983-5.
Hogarth's House.  This Queen Anne house was the home of painter William Hogarth and was his country retreat. His wife Jane lived there along with his mother in law and the family used it every summer from 1749 until Hogarth’s death in 1765. It then stood in a country lane surrounded by fields and market gardens.  It is a tall, simple brick house of three storeys, five windows wide, with a central wooden oriel window overlooking the garden - where there are mulberries. Lieutenant-Colonel Shipway, who rescued the house and opened it to the public as a museum to Hogarth in 1904. Shipway gave the house to Middlesex County Council in 1909 and ownership passed in 1965 to Hounslow Council. The house was refurbished in 1996-97 to mark the tercentenery of Hogarth's birth.
43 Lifeguardsman pub. This pub was destroyed during an air raid in the Second World War.
Linen House. This appears to be the premises of the Hogarth Laundry now converted into flats.  The laundry was a large business with branch offices and - from the dates on the front of the building – probably opened in 1879.  The other date of 1933 could refer to the date they moved to this building which is shown on the 1935 OS as a laundry.

Hogarth Roundabout
Hogarth Roundabout is a junction on the A4 and  at the northern end of the A316. It is named after the painter William Hogarth, whose house was near the site of the junction.
Flyover. There is currently a temporary structure here built in 1969. Plans for a permanent flyover existed before it was built and in the 1960s several ideas were investigated.

Mawson Lane
Mawson Arms. Early 18th building WHICH was originally a private house and from 1716 to, 1719 was the home of the poet Alexander ¬¬Pope and his parents. It was renamed as "Fox and Hounds" in 1772, and then as "Mawson Arms/Fox and Hounds" in 1899. The pub was originally sited to the south in a building which is now offices, next to the current Brewery Shop. In 1898, when the name changed, it moved.
Blue plaque to Alexander Pope. He lived here 1716-19 and published his ‘Preface to the Iliad’ and ‘Eloisa to Abelard’, which he may have written in the surviving garden building, now converted to an electricity substation.

Netheravon Road South
Wall - the wall which runs along the road is roe remains of the Prebendal Manor wall and is 17th

Powell’s Walk
Formerly a footpath connecting Chiswick House with the parish church

Promenade Approach Road
This follows the line of a conduit leading from the ornamental water in Chiswick House.  This is fed by the Bollo Brook. The line of the brook follows the line of lime trees.
The Duke of York opened the Promenade Approach Road in Chiswick in 1926. It formed the vehicle and pedestrian entrance to the newly built riverside promenade and recreational area in Dukes Meadows.
Flood barrier. In the 1950s following floods a barrier was formed in form wartime rubble, and placed over the road between the pump house and the now Riverside Drive.
Dukes Meadows. The land here belonged to the Duke of Devonshire, from where it gets its name. It is in a bend of the river and was formerly osier beds and market gardens, In 1923 Chiswick Urban District Council bought some of the land from the 9th Duke of Devonshire. By 1926 the facilities included football and cricket pitches, a paddling pool, sand pit and playground, and the riverside promenade. It was opened by the Duke of York in 1926. Now it remains largely taken up with private sports grounds, and allotments.
The Friends of Dukes Meadows was set up in 1998 to conserve and improve the Meadows and the Riverside. a Community Orchard completed, and a Wild Flower Garden has been created on the disused paddling pool site.
Duke's Hollow. This is on the site of a 19th boathouse that burnt down in the 1970. It is now managed by the London Wildlife Trust and Hounslow Conservation Volunteers as a nature reserve. It is covered by the tide twice a day and is in its natural state

Pumping Station Road
Sewage works. This opened in 1879, it closed in 1936 and replaced by Mogden Works.
Rubbish destructor. This was built in the late 19th and was used to burn compressed household waste which was then burnt to power the plant and to make flagstones,

Riverside Drive
Grove Park Farm. A farm building of the Grove Park Farm on the Duke of Devonshire estate became changing rooms for the football and cricket teams, with a flat for the Park Keeper; in the 1970s the ground floor was used by the Masonians Bowls Club.

Thames Crescent
This is part of the Corney Reach development and a group of homes called Thames Crescent.

Arthure. Life and work in Old Chiswick
Banbury. Shipbuilders of the Thames and Medway
Buildings to see in Fulham and Hammersmith 
Brewery History Society. Web site.
British History Online. Chiswick. Web site
Cavendish Primary School. Web site
Cherry Blossom Heritage. Web page
Chiswick House and Gardens. Web site
Chiswick Pier Trust. Web site
Chiswick W4. Web site
Clegg. The Chiswick Book
Closed Pubs. Web site
Clunn. The Face of London
Doricdesign. Web site
Grace’s Guide. Web site
London Borough of Hounslow. Web site
London Encyclopaedia
London Gardens. Online. Web site
Mawson Arms. Web site
Middlesex County Council. History of Middlesex
Parks and Gardens. Web site
Pevsner and Cherry. North West London
Pub History. Web site
SABRE. Web site – A316, Hogarth Lane, roundabout, etc.
Thames Explorer Trust. Web site
Thames Panorama. Web site
Valor. Web site
Walford. Village London
Wikipedia. Web site. As appropriate

Monday, 17 October 2016

Riverside west of the Tower and north of the river. Chiswick Dukes Meadows more sport

This post shows sites north of the river only. South of the river is Barnes Bridge

Post to the west Chiswick Dukes Meadow sports and Riverside Mortlake
Post to the south Barnes Common
Post to the east Barnes
Post to the north Old Chiswick

Dan Mason Drive
This road is named after the founder of Cherry Blossom Boot Polish
Tom Green’s Boathouse. Thomas George Green was apprenticed to his father as a waterman in 1864. In later life he became a King’s Waterman.  In 1876, Tom Green he bought a rundown boathouse rebuilt it and a fleet of boats to hire. The boathouse became the headquarters of several rowing clubs and regatta committees. His son Young Tom’ took over the boathouse on the death of his father, in 1925.  Between 1925 and 1975 Green’s carried on as if the world was not changing, particularly as regards health and safety and ideas on basic sanitation.  Tom and his wife, Kate, continued, the premises decaying around them., in 1957 sixteen men’s clubs and two women’s clubs used the premises. Young Tom died in 1958 in the rooms about the boat racks where he was born 84 years earlier. In 1923 the land upon which Green’s stood had been bought from the Duke of Devonshire by Chiswick Urban District Council, and who wanted to build a community boathouse on the site. They did not do so until Mrs. Green died in 1975 and the boathouse burnt down in 1977.
Chiswick Boathouse. This is owned by the London Borough of Hounslow and built in 1973.  It is a two storey reinforced concrete, brick and glass boathouse designed by the Borough Architect George A Trevett. There is Boat storage on ground floor and changing rooms also serve adjoining sports pitches for club and community use. Numerous clubs use it. It is on the site of Tom Greens boathouse. They include below:
Old Meadonians Football Club. The club was founded in 1929 by the Old Boys of Chiswick County Grammar School. The name "Meadonians" originates from the early name of the School - "The School in the Meadows"..
Thames Tradesmen Rowing Club. This dates from 1897.
Old Harrovian Association Football Club. This dates from 1859 and claims to be the second oldest football club still in existence. This is despite the fact that in 1927 soccer was abolished at Harrow in favour of Rugby.  They started again in 1963 despite a lot of controversy.
Chiswick School Boat club. This is for pupils at the school,
London Oratory School Boat Club.
Hounslow Hockey Club.
Old Haberdashers
Barnes Hockey Club.
Ibis Football Club. It dates from 1913 and was part of the Prudential Clerks Society, renamed the Ibis Society.  Before the Second World War the Prudential, negotiated on behalf of the Ibis Society, a lease of a ground at Chiswick, but during the war, the ground was requisitioned until 1946-47. In the 1990s Ibis became detached from Prudential and became a private clubs. The Chiswick ground became a golf range and now a 9-hole course. In 2007 the opportunity arose to move back to Chiswick
Chiswick Rugby Club.   This used to be the Old Meadonians Rugby Football club founded in 1958 for the former pupils of Chiswick County Grammar School for boys.  Originally the team played at the School but in the early 60s loaned pitches at Osterley and then rented a clubhouse from Spelthorne Sports Club. During the early ‘70s the club moved to Dukes Meadows and transformed the school pavilion changing rooms previously into a clubhouse. They also stopped recruiting school Old Boys. In 1999, arsonists destroyed the Clubhouse and it was rebuilt and opened in 2005. They are on the other side of the road from the Chiswick Boathouse.

Dukes Meadows
Kings House Sports Grounds. This is what was the Civil Service Sports Club. It now seems to be owned by some private school although the ground still seems to be called ‘Civil Service’. The Civil Service Sports Club itself is a large organisation based in High Wycombe.
Civil Service Football Club. The club is the only surviving association football club from the original eleven clubs who founded The Football Association in 1863. They have played at Dukes Meadow since 1925.

Riverside Drive
Pillars Sports Club. There is a big clubhouse here which seems to be hired out.
Riverside Health and Racquets Club. Commercially run sports venue
Dan Mason Memorial Gateway, in 1928 a memorial gateway was erected to Dan Mason at the entrance to the company sports field. This would appear to be roughly on the entrance to the Virgin Active car park, and seems to have gone
Charles Mason Memorial Retreat.  This building was erected in 1929 with a plaque on the rear saying “This retreat is erected by The Employees of The Chiswick Polish Co Ltd, As a tribute to The Memory of Charles Mason ESQ, December 1929. It is now in use as a car wash by Virgin Active.

Staveley Gardens
Tinplate Factory. In 1923 Cherry Blossom acquired land on Dukes Meadows from Chiswick Urban District Council to build a Tinplate Printing and Cardboard box factory. The factory had a giant thermometer and a barometer out onto  the factory chimney. The dial of the barometer was 9ft in diameter, mounted 48 feet from the ground; the thermometer scale covered almost the entire height of the tower, the other 3 faces of the tower had clocks.

The Promenade
Bandstand, A seaside-type promenade and a bandstand stand on the riverfrint and were opened by the Prince Albert, Duke of York in 1926. It has been refurbished with private funding and is used for summer events.
The Civil Service boat house is home to Cygnet RC and Barnes Bridge Ladies RC. The hard is shared with Emmanuel School BC and a local canoe club. It is rented from the Port of London Authority.
Cygnet Rowing Club , this was set up in 1890 and is based at what was called the Civil Service Sports Club Boathouse which adjoins the boathouse of the Barnes Bridge Ladies Rowing Club. It was originally founded for non-manual male workers in the General Post Office and moved to the CSSC Boathouse in the 1930s. After the Second World War it was decided to merge several Civil Service rowing clubs that into Cygnet., whose blades are a mid-blue, between shades of those featured in a wide band toward the tips of Cygnet RC's blades.
Barnes Bridge Ladies Rowing Club
Emmanuel School Rowing Club.  The boat club for pupils of Emanuel School, Battersea Rise,
Masonian Bowls Club. This began when Dan & Charles Mason leased land from Chiswick Urban Council, and built a club for their employees called Chiswick Polish Athletic Club and this included a bowls green. Then the club name was changed to Masonian Athletic Club, and the Masonian Bowls club was formed in 1925.   In 1983 after the factory closed the club was asked to move. They moved onto the Burlington Bowls Club green which was derelict.

Barnes Bridge Ladies Rowing Club. Web site
Barnes Hockey Club. Web site
Civil Service Football Club. Web site
Cherry Blossom factory. Web site
Chiswick Rugby Club. Web site
Chiswick School. Web site
Cygnet Rowing Club. Web site
Dukes Meadows Park. Web site
Emmanuel School Rowing Club, Web site
Hear the Boat Sing. Web site
Hounslow Hockey Club Web site
Ibis Football Club. Web site
London Borough of Hounslow. Web sit4e
London Oratory School. Web site
Old Harrovians Association Football Club. Web site
Old Meadonians Football Club. Web site
Thames Tradesmen Rowing Club. Web site

Sunday, 16 October 2016

Riverside north of the river and west of the Tower. Chiswick Dukes Meadow Sports

This post relates to sites north of the river only. South of the river is Riverside Mortlake

Post to the east Barnes Bridge and Chiswick Dukes Meadows more sport
Post to the south Mortlake and East Sheen
Post to the west Kew
Post to the north Chiswick Grove Park

Chiswick Quay
This is entered from Hartington Road.
This estate of townhouses was developed in 1974 and was originally part of Lord Burlington's Chiswick House estate, later owned by the Dukes of Devonshire.   The designers were Bernard Engle and Partners, the developers Kier Ltd.
Marina. This operates commercially. It originated as Grove House’s ornamental lake which can be traced back to the mid-18th century. It was used for punting, and contained an island in the centre with a grotto at its eastern end. It is also said to have been a gravel pit.
Cubitt's Yacht Basin. The ornamental pond became a dock. It is said that Cubitts used it to transport stone to their developments in inner west London – but this seems unlikely. From map evidence an entrance dock was built before 1920.  Concrete barges were built here in the Great War and used to transport ammunition to France.  Subsequently it seems to have been used to moor private vessels. It was then described as an artificial sheet of water of about two acres separated from the river by a concrete gate, only opened at spring tides. It had a hard, and slipway on to which yachts could be floated.  A repair staff was maintained. In 1926 it was leased by the British Motor Boat Club. A 5 ton crane was installed and a resident engineer appointed. There was also a slipway and new clubhouse. It later became a floating village of houseboats where families and commuters lived in what was reportedly an idyllic existence. In 1969 the boat owners were forced to leave to make way for the new development – having fought a long legal battle to remain.

Chiswick Staithe
This riverside estate was designed by Edward Armitage and built by Chiswick Strand developments in 1963. It is on the site of what was 1-15 Hartington Road.

Dan Mason Drive
Riverside road named for Dan Mason who was the founder of Cherry Blossom Boot Polish and it was renamed
Tideway Scullers School. The school was founded at the close of the 1950s by Alec Hodges, whose drive got the club established and the clubhouse built in the mid-1980s.

Dukes Meadows
The name comes because the meadows were owned by the Dukes of Devonshire. Up to the 20th this was a quiet unvisited place of orchards, market gardens and marsh. It now covers the area to the east of the Great Chertsey Road.
Gravel Extraction. In 1923 there was an agreement between the Riverside Sand and Ballast Company and Chiswick Urban District Council for the excavation of land with a payment per acre. Excavation began in 1924 and finished around 1937. The works operated by Thames Grit and Aggregates Ltd was one of the largest of its kind. In 1931 it merged with Hall and Co. to form Hall and Ham River Ltd. The pits were later infilled with rubble from demolition sites.

Dukes Meadows - North and West of the Great Chertsey Road
Quintin Hogg Memorial Sports Ground - this is the University of Westminster sports ground. It was previously the Polytechnic sports ground and is named after Quintin Hogg, the founder, in 1881, of Regent’s Street Polytechnic the University’s predecessor. It was opened in 1906 and was soon used by the Polytechnic Harriers, as well as football, cricket and lawn tennis clubs. They drew large crowds to at their events so in 1938 the ground was enlarged by 20 acres and upgraded, with a new cantilevered stadium and a state-of-the-art cinder running track. During the Second World War it was put at the disposal of the Army and RAF, and suffered bomb damage including the destruction of the ladies pavilion. The boathouse reopened in 1951, and the running track resurfaced in 1945 but the ground was not fully reopened until 1960. Today it has 45 acres of sporting facilities including floodlit synthetic turf pitches, netball/tennis courts and natural pitches for cricket, rugby and football. There is also a large pavilion with two function rooms, bars and changing facilities. In 2011 the ground hosted the London Cup hockey tournament with teams from England, Belgium, Korea and New Zealand competing.
Polytechnic Grandstand.  Built in 1936 by Joseph Addison, with concrete cantilevers and corner windows

Dukes Meadows - South and East of the Great Chertsey Road
Sports Centre with: Golf course 9 hole par 3 course plus a driving range and an academy; Indoor and outdoor Tennis; Ski slope – indoor endless slope and Cafe, shop, treatment rooms etc
Riverside Lands School Playing Fields

Great Chertsey Road
The A316 it ‘strides purposefully into the distance’.. .’reflecting the aspirations of the 1930s planners..The first part of the road was built in 1923 as part of the gravel extraction scheme and built by the company. It was called Alexandra Avenue and went as far as the Hartington Road junction.
Railway Bridge. This was built by the gravel extraction company in 1923 as a concrete bridge called Alexandra Bridge.

Hartington Road
Gravel extraction and expanded to the other side of the Great Chertsey Road, where there were smaller workings between Hartington Road and the river.
St Ursula’s Retreat House. In 1912 a Roman Catholic priest named Charles Plater published a history of lay retreats. A group of ladies and clergy formed the ‘Association for Short Retreats’ and bought a house was at Chiswick with 20 bedrooms, known as St Ursula’s, used for women’s retreats. This now appears to be part of the site known as The Lindens.

Ibis Lane
Ibis Boathouse. Ibis Rowing Club acquired this from Grove Park Rowing Club in 1886.  Grove Park Club probably dated from the 1860s and there are illustrations of their boat house from the 1880s. Ibis Rowing Club was a division of the Prudential’s Ibis Sports Club and were still extant in the 1970s. It is brick and timber with a slate roof built in 1915 for the Ibis Club. It was sold to North Thames Gas Board in 1991 for use as their staff club, Horseferry Rowing Club, and then sold again to Mortlake Anglian & Alpha Rowing Club in 1999. The Ground floor accommodates boats, and the first floor has a large club room and balcony. There is a flat at the back,
Mortlake Anglia and Alpha Boat Club. They use the Ibis Boathouse. The Mortlake Rowing Club of 1877 is the oldest component if the present-day club. It merged with The Anglian Boat Club, of 1878 in 1962 to become Mortlake Anglian Boat Club. Chiswick Rowing Club had been formed from Bedford Park Club and Bedford Park & District Club and they too merged with Mortlake to become Mortlake Anglian & Chiswick Boat Club. Alpha Women's Rowing Club of 1927 also merged in Club in 1984
University of Westminster boat house. Brick and timber with slate roof, this replaced the original timber boathouse built in 1888 by Quintin Hogg. The Ground floor accommodates boats, and ht first floor has large club room with original features and a balcony with iron railings. There is a flat at the back. This is traditionally where the annual Oxford and Cambridge Boat Race ends.
Quintin Boat Club, this was founded in 1907 as a means of circumventing the rules of the ARA and Henley Royal Regatta – which would only allow clubs entirely comprised of amateurs and gentlemen to compete.. But it originated with the Polytechnic Rowing Club of the 1880s and the Hanover United Athletic Club, from 1875.  Organised sports at the precursor of Regents Street Polytechnic began at the Youths’ Christian Institute in 1874 with the foundation of the Hanover United Athletic Club after the Institute’s then location. Rowing started in 1875 and by 1879 was the most popular sport at HUAC. In time it became the Polytechnic Rowing Club. In 1888 Quintin Hogg paid to have a boathouse built for the club on the present site. It was surrounded by the Duke of Devonshire’s meadows.  Quintin Hogg also paid for a fleet of boats. In 1907 the name of the club was changed to Quintin Boat Club in honour of Quintin Hogg.

Staveley Gardens
These houses were built by the Cherry Blossom Company for their work force. In 1930 the first occupants moved in to the 50 houses- semi-detached houses for workers and maisonettes for retired employees in 1960. Cherry trees were planted to line the walks.

Thames Village
This land was once a gravel pit which provided material for the construction of the concrete barges produced by Cubitt's Yacht Basin in what is now the marina next door.  When the gravel pit was first filled, it was a caravan site.
Thames Village was completed in 1958, with a central green space but is not gated. There is a short private footpath along the river.  Because of its previous use as a gravel pit each house was constructed on a raft of concrete. The architects were Stone, Toms and Partners.

Arthure. Life and Work in Old Chiswick
Association for Promoting Retreats. Web site
British Motor Boat Club. Web site
Chiswick History. Web site
Chiswick Quays. Web site
Clunn. The face of London
Dukes Meadow. Web site
Dukes Meadow Park. Web site
Dukes Meadow Trust. Web site
Greater London Council. Thames Guidelines, 
London Encyclopaedia
Middlesex County Council. History of  Middlesex, 
Panorama of the Thames. Web site
Pevsner and Cherry. North West London
Played in London. Web site
Stevenson. Surrey
University of Westminster. Web site
Walford. Village London,