Friday, 30 April 2010

Thames Tributary Neckinger - Bermondsey

Thames Tributary Neckinger
The Neckinger is said to have flowed generally north east to emerge at St.Saviour’s Dock.
The Lock Stream is also said to have passed through the area on the way to Duffield Sluice

Abbey Street
Abbey Street named after the Bermondsey which is connected to the river. A stream ran alongside it which is probably the Neckinger following its course, or alternatively the Lock Stream going to Duffield sluice? The monks’ lavatories were built over the stream. It was laid out in 1820, when the western end was built on the site of the nave. The oldest part of the road was at the east end and called Neckinger Road, with the middle section as George Street.
Bermondsey Abbey. This was the Cluniac Priory of St Saviour founded in 1086. During the Crusades, it was used by the Norman Templar knights, as a headquarters. Later founded by Alwyn Childe it became the Benedictine Abbey of the Holy Saviour. The church was at the west end of a gravel island called Bermondsey Eyot with causeways across channels and wetlands and local roads partly follow the layout of the abbey. Abbey Street runs down the nave and chancel. There are surviving carved pieces in the church and in the Cuming Museum. Catherine of Valois, widow of Henry V, died here in 1437 and Elizabeth Woodville, widow of Edward IV, in 1492. After dissolution in 1537 a house was built by Sir Thomas Pope on the site of the range, with a garden on the site of the church.  Thus was demolished at the end of the 17th.  Archaeology has uncovered the south wall of the church which was used by Thomas Pope as his north wall cutting two bay windows were cut into it.  A Saxon cross in the North door was called the Rood of Grace.
84 Royal George. Demolished
160 Fleece. Closed
162-164 Neckinger Mills. The mill had belonged to Bermondsey Abbey and became a water-pumping engine in 1780 for paper maker Matthias Koops who also used a steam engine to regenerate old paper following a row with leather manufacturers over the water rights. His patent for reeving ink from paper pulp was pioneered here. The mill was sold in 1805.  Re-built in 1844 it stood in Neckinger Road. In 1866, the Bevington brothers bought 5 acres of land, divided by the railway and they thus rented the arches. It is a four storey yellow brick building, used as offices and showrooms for Bevington & Sons whose adjacent tannery was itself on the site of mills.   Bevingtons retained the mill.
Bromleigh House.  Memorial drinking fountain to Violet Alice Tritton. She worked at Time and Talents and this was erected in 1959 at a time when the estate was being built. It is a line of children’s heads undertaken by Students from the Sculpture Department of Camberwell School of Arts and Crafts.
177 Beormond Community CentreStar Music Hall
Railway Bridge.
On the line to London Bridge Station which was opened in 1836 and was the first railway line in London, Dudley fluted columns – more than in the others and they may have been moved from elsewhere.

Means Beormund's Island – points to the marshy nature of the area. It is Bermundesye’ 1086 in the Domesday Book. In the Dark Ages Bermondsey was a minster – a church founded by a king as an important administrative centre with priests who were responsible for a whole area. The Manor also had property in the City.

Bermondsey Square
This covers the area of the main quadrangle of the abbey - the inner court, west of the cloister.  The medieval gatehouse was at the entrance to the square and survived until 1820. Some plain early 19th terraces remain,
1-5 New Caledonian antiques market.  By the beginning of the 20th century there was an increasing interest in antiques. Originally the square was 'market ouvert'. This market moved here from north London after the Second World War but it is mainly a market for dealers.  

Bermondsey Street
Bermondsey Street is the old high street connecting the riverside and the parish church. Retains much of its original character as a high street and many of its original houses
4 bayed warehouse
40-42 security warehouse for Cuban cigars 1980s
46-50 chocolate factory until 1990 part of larger site Coral chocolate
47 The Stage with glazed brickwork
55 The Tannery
59 old Bermondsey Police Station
63 old pub with decorations on upper floors, Davy’s Wine Bars own it and built bridge to 59
65-71 Bramah House, recent renovation
74-76 an irregular 18th group. Medieval style archway. Listed Grade II, terraced houses built in red brick with stuccoed fronts.
78 used by John Cole Baker.  Vinegar distillery in 1910.  The Archway was used as a coaching inn.  Oriel window and weather boarded attic workroom.  Late 17th, with an oriel window, and a double over- hang.  Listed Grade II, Stucco with weather boarded top floor.
83 Fashion and Textile Museum. Centre for contemporary fashion, textiles and jewellery in London. Founded by British designer Zandra Rhodes.  Building designed by Mexican architect Ricardo Legorreta and operated by Newham College,
98 Woolpack Inn, old, referencing the wool trade in the area
99 The Garrison was previously the Yorkshire Grey, 1908. Pub with original feature of sand-blasted windows.
102 Lantern House. Metropolitan Society for the Blind.
103 Studio in a warehouse. A single bay with a three- centred arch below a gable
109 was Bermondsey Wireworks
114 false mansards from the 1980s
124-130 terrace dated 1828 originally houses, they have a three-storey cornice line and shop fronts linked by a common fascia line.
139-149 matching warehouses - originally four, but one burnt down during Fire Brigade strike.  Rankin Bros & Sons cork merchants with distinctive central loading bays rising above three storeys to serve an attic storey behind the parapet,
156-170 General Iron Foundry Ltd. early 20th concrete buildings
170 Christy of Bermondse.y. Hat factory largest in the world
173 early concrete structure arch over former Royal Oak.  Early 19th, four storeys with fine Tuscan cornice and giant pilasters. Former cloth factory
Royal Oak Yard. Through the arch are some remaining buildings from tanners Francis Bacon & Sons
175 Robert Boys
Shipping/Waterloo Trading Co.
177 two storey corner building formerly a pub
180-182 Gemini House with Gothic wrought-iron grilles. 
187-189 Time and Talents Settlement. Arts and Crafts style building built in 1908 as a hostel for young working girls and women.
191 Manse.  Rectory on one side of the church and set back.  Early 19th grey-brick house.
193 St.Mary Magdalene. There was a minster here in 708.  The medieval parish church was near the priory but nothing remains -there is a capital perhaps from the cloister with a sunken trefoil on each face and beasts at the corners. This church had been built in 13th for the abbey servants.  It became the Precinct Church c.1300.  Rectors were appointed from 1291, and it was a parochial from 1296. One plate remains from the Abbey. In 1611 the vicar chopped down the maypole. Part of the tower and the aisle may be 15th but Charles Stanton rebuilt the rest in 1675-9 when the earlier church became unsafe. The exterior was stuccoed in 1830, and George Porter remodelled the front in a Gothic Revival style. Inside it is still late 17th. There is a marble font with cherubs' heads; 17th- 18th woodwork; an organ case from 1750; a reredos of carved festoons with the Lord's Prayer; wall paintings of Moses and Aaron; and brass candelabra 1699. Monuments to: William Castell 1687, William Stevens 1713; Beriah Drew.  The Churchwardens' pew has all round seating and four side reading desks so that it could be used as an office. In the 19th with a population of 235,000 the church had six curates, 10 readers and 18 lookers. It is where the costermongers’ harvest festival, with the Pearly Kings is held.
Churchyard turned into public park 1863. It contains a drinking fountain to James Buckingham Bevington 1902.Listed grade II. 
Watch House early 19th stuccoed. There is said to be a tunnel through which to take bodies to Guy's?  It is where the parish constables reported for duty and here a watch was kept on the graveyard to prevent resurrection men stealing corpses.
210 evidence of 17th century structure internally, and a double M-profile roof
244 Hand and Marigold
254 Trocette Mansions built on the site of the Trocette cinema, which opened in 1929 as the Super. Nicknamed 'The Ice-box'. The Hyams brothers bought it in 1933 and renamed it the Trocette. It had a 2,282 seat auditorium with a modest foyer and façade. The Hyams sold it to Gaumont British in 1944. The yobs used to take exit doors off their hinges and sling bricks through the office windows. It was a tough place.' The manager remembered 'throwing out' Tommy Steele, whom he described as 'a little terror'. The cinema closed in 1956
256 Bermondsey Methodist Mission and Central Hall. The Mission stands in direct line of succession from Wesley's third London preaching house, known as Snowfields Chapel. Bookshop
Tunnel under the railway lines. The northern end for the London and Greenwich Railway Bridge with ironwork from Dudley Foundry, which was not completed until after the line was opened, holding up the opening of London Bridge Station.

Carmarthen Place
2 One of two wooden eco houses and artists' studios. Prefabricated in Slovenia, the complete panels were craned into the site.
India Rubber Works 1890s
Tannery 1890s

Crimscott Street
Scientific botanic gardens set up William Curtis in the 1760s. Claimed to be the earliest
25 Fellmongers Arms. Gone
41 St.Mungo’s Hostel
Branston Pickle
.  Production had started in Branston but in 1924, it was moved to Crimscott Street, Bermondsey
Crosse and Blackwell pickle factory. The business was founded in 1706 as the West and Wyatt grocery. In 1819, two young apprentices became friends -- Edmund Crosse and Thomas Blackwell and in 1829, they bought out West and Wyatt. Sometime before 1850, the company bought the canning firm of Donkin, Hall and Gamble in order to make their own tins. By 1939, they had dedicated quality control departments at their Bermondsey canning plant in London.

Crucifix Lane
Rood of Grace.  It was put in Crucifix Lane and destroyed. After dissolution in 1537 it stood on Horselydown Common until destroyed by Elizabethan Protestant mob The Saxon cross was put into a pyramid in the churchyard for a while in 1806 and then it disappeared.
2 Suchard Free House was previously the Horns Pub

Curlew Street
Earlier this was Thomas Street
Plaque, 1896 re Butlers Wharf
India House
George’s Stairs

Dockhead, London Street
Paper mill, Symington engine 1790s
41-43 The Italian Building
Most Holy Trinity. Roman Catholic Church. 1951-61. Design of pre-Second World War type by H. S. Goodhart-Rendel, with patterned brickwork outside and banded stonework within.  It replaced a Gothic church of 1834- by Kempthorne destroyed in 1940.  It is Arts and Crafts in form, and with twin-towers. The plan is on the basis of an equilateral triangle, symbolizing the Trinity, and the hexagon. It is in concrete construction, reinforced with Delta metal. 12th Capital from Bermondsey Abbey found during building work in Abbey Street on display.
Convent of Mercy. Bombed and rebuilt.  On the site of a tan yard. The previous church was built in 1839 by Pugin and adjoined the former church also destroyed in the war
Presbytery to Goodhart- Rendel's designs: completed post-1959 by H.L. Cunis.
55 Swan and Sugarloaf. Closed and in other use.
Scotts Wharf corner of Mill Street with Early 19th wooden wall crane, in the yard

Druid Street,
Railway arches from 1839 fitted by as shops and storehouses, only 52 out of 850 available some used as houses of entertainment
8 St.Olave and Bermondsey United Charities
21 Marquis of Wellington. Pub by railway viaduct. Unusual tiled bar in Saloon. 
Training for Life Bermondsey Downside settlement.
Railway arches under the approaches to London Bridge station – originating with those built by the London and Greenwich Railway in 1836 and subsequently added to.  In the Second World War they were bricked-up to serve as air raid shelters. On 25 October 1940 following a direct hit 105 men, women and children were killed and many more injured.

Fair Street
Named after the Horseley Down Fair.
Tower Bridge Primary School. Fancy metal work along the walls.
St.John’s Horselydown.  The church was gutted in the Second World War.  It was a landmark with a square tower from on the top of which rose a tall stone spire and a weather vane shaped like a comet. The church was probably a cut-price job by Hawksmoor and John James built on part of Martial Ground from the Artillery Hall – which was by then used as a workhouse. It was completed in 1752 and was one of the last works of the Commission for Building Fifty New Churches. The 150th anniversary of the church was celebrated in 1883 with a public luncheon in the large hall of St Olave's Grammar School. The church was burned in an air raid of 1940 and the 225ft spire taken down in 1948. The lower parts of the walls are incorporated in an office block.
Naismith House, London City Mission.  New building by John D. Ainsworth & Associates, 1972-6 using the foundations and basement of the old church. 
St Olave and St.John’s Parish War Memorial. Bronze Christ on a cross.  The pedestal has the names of those who died in the First World War.
Vicarage early 18th of brown brick with red dressings, and has a projecting centrepiece with a small pediment.  Parsonage was designed by Hawksmoor in 1733
Watch House one-storeyed stuccoed
Fountain with a stem of twisted dolphins probably dating from when the churchyard became a public garden in 1882.
Tall 19th tenements, now modernized and a little less bleak than previously

Gainsford Street
7 Raw Gallery
8 The Cooperage handsome.  Neo- Georgian interwar building Crown Prosecution Service
9 Bricklayers Arms. Gone.
11 LSE Student Residence Conran Roche, completed 1989. A long facade in pale yellow brick punctuated by grey balconies. 
18 Tamarind Court
20 Coriander Building.  Early 20th warehouse, divided by a core and courtyard garden
60 Nutmeg House

Grange Road
Area of the Abbey Grange farm and crossed by the Neckinger. Later an area of Tan yards.
12 Bacons Free School. J. Bacon donation from 1718. School rebuilt in 1891 but had previously been one of a pair of later 18th houses. Later became Southwark College. To become London School of Osteopathy. Originally had a statue of a boy over the door. 
61 Alaska factory. Premises of C.W.Martin fur merchants which also made sealskin jackets, including for Second World War airmen. Waste went to Young’s glue factory. The entrance gate of 1869 shows a seal. The factory behind was rebuilt to art deco designs by Wallis Gilbert in the 1930s. The business was founded in 1823 by John Moritz Oppenheim and moved here in the 1860s. Now flats.
93 Boutcher School, 1871-2 by Joseph Gale of Bermondsey, picturesque group with an L-shaped school building of two storeys with gabled upper windows with tracery and a tower over the porch, schoolmaster's house with a tower and a . Nature garden
162 Horns Tavern. became the Final Furlong. Demolished
185 Earl of Derby. Closed
210 Sampson’s Castle. Pub gone.
Bermondsey Central Baths
1927-1973 corner of Bacon Grove. Included Turkish Baths.
Park on the site of Bermondsey Spa. Thomas Keyse discovered a spring in the grounds of his tea gardens in the 1770's. He opened a spa and a picture gallery. In the evenings there were concerts and firework displays.

Grange Walk
Priory gatehouse site. The road ran from the abbeys eastern gatehouse to the abbey grange or farm. By the 18th this was an area of tanneries. The end section was Horney Lane into the 1920s - .
5, 6 -7 a group with gables although much remodelled, is recognisable as one side of a late medieval gatehouse.  The only remnant of the abbey is this stonework of the East Gate which was demolished in 1760 within 7 where some hinges can be seen protruding from its facade.
15 Charity School for Girls. dated 1830, brick, with round-headed windows in the upper floor. Listed and considered at risk. St.Mary’s Youth Club. Corner of Griggs Place.
55 Duke of Sussex. Closed.
Evelyn Coyle Day Centre
49 Mabel Goldwin House. Mabel was a Mayor of Southwark in the 1970s. Houses PCT, Children's Services and Social Services.
Larnaca Works. Demolished.

Green Walk
The Neckinger crosses this road
Hartley's jam factory converted into flats and offices. W.P. Hartley made preserves at Aintree, Liverpool and opened a factory here in 1901. Electricity was used for power and light and strong walls and fireproof doors were installed to divide the building into seven or eight departments. Facilities were provided for loading and unloading between fifteen and twenty vans at a time. Jam and marmalade was produced from fresh fruit and sold in glazed stoneware jars. Excavations here found a brick-line well and a clay-lined tanning pit containing two timber tanks

Holyrood Street
The name refers to the Rood of Grace
London and Greenwich Railway arches –with an open in the bottom centre of each arch to allow for interchange of units and occupants. White tile extensions

The name derives from "Horse-lie-down" or "Horseye-downe" and is shown on Tudor maps.   Earlier it was cited as ‘Horsridune’ c.1175, ‘meaning 'hill at the dry ground in marsh where horses are kept', from Old English. The road named this was the part of Tooley Street extending west from Fair Street
28 Anchor Tap. The old tap to Horsleydown brewery, with resident ghost
Creed Lead works. Sir James Creed took out a patent in 1749 for the manufacture of white lead and the casting of sheet lead. He had a white lead works on Horsleydown and died in 1762. The business was carried on by Thomas Farr who married Creed's granddaughter, Elizabeth Birch. In 1780 the firm was trading as Creed, Farr, Birch & Co. and mills for rolling lead sheet.

Jamaica Road,
Name comes from Jamaica Tavern which is supposed to have been a palace of Oliver Cromwell. It was demolished in 1843
Phoenix Wharf. To the rear of Dockhead Stores. The three storey building with a square chimney was a spice grinding works.
Row of large houses and a few shops lining Paradise Row (now Jamaica Road), and which were demolished in 1975 when Jamaica Road was widened

Kirby Grove
Snowsfields Primary School
School nature garden

Guinness Trust Buildings 1897. Founded in 1890, Guinness Trust is a housing association providing affordable homes for over 100 years. It was formed with an endowment of £200,000 by Sir Edward Cecil Guinness, great grandson of the founder of the Guinness brewery.

Lafone Street
Called after Henry Lafone, Wharfinger who ended the 1889 Dock Strike by negotiating separately.
32 The Dean Swift
Horselydown Mansions though much altered 1997 is one of the few groups of tenements of c. 1900 that survive amongst the warehouses, outliers of the extensive groups along Tooley Street

Leathermarket Street
Was previously called Market Street. There are still plenty of older industrial buildings.  Warehouses. A tanner (Oastler, Palmer & Co Ltd) a wool factor, a hop factor (Wild, Neame & Co) as well as a Gas and Sulphate producer.
The Leather Exchange. Pub. This was for a while called the Juggler’s Arms. The bar area has been used as a pub since the building was constructed. Built as the Leather, Hide and Wool Exchange in 1878 by George Ellington & Sons. Its porch is supported by twin Atlases and A series of five roundels depicting the leather trades. It apparently only functioned until 1912. As the Jugglers Arms, and a first floor room is used for juggling tuition by the company More Balls Than Most.
1-5 2-4 are mid 19th, with brick facades and circular corner towers topped by chimneypots
22 warehouse conversion. Wall piece from Dickens by Joseph Kosuth. A former leather factors with an impressive entrance arch.

Leathermarket Court
Leathermarket Gardens.  Small wasteland area with a nature reserve. Laid out in the 1930s, it is overlooked by flats. There is a rectangular sunken area with a formal layout of beds and a raised circular rose garden and also a quiet garden planted with varied trees and grasses

Long Lane
Connecting the parish churches of Bermondsey and St George' Southwark with 19th industrial buildings, The abbey church was to the north and east of the square, with Long Lane and Abbey Street running down the nave and chancel. 
Long Lane Playground.T his is a small park with a children’s playground and planted with shrubs around the edge. Gravestones arranged along the wall on the east side. It is the site of two burial grounds laid out as a park in 1885.. Buildings between the two and fronting on to Long Lane were demolished in the 20th and the the land added to the park. There is said to havve been a wall plaque sayin “The Property of the Six Weeks Meeting of the Society of Friends. This tablet has been placed here by order of the Said Meeting. The burial ground purchased in 1697 was extensively used for Friends’ burials until closed by order of the Privy Council.”
Friends Burial Ground. This was bought by the Friends in 1697 probably for attendees at the Horsleydown Meeting House.  In 1800 this Meeting House was sold and the congregation combined with those in Redcross Street. The Burial Ground closed in 1855. The Metropolitan Public Gardens Association arranged for Bermondsey Vestry to lease it and it was laid out as public space.
Ebenezer Burial Ground. This dated from the late 18th and was owned by the Independent Chapel in Beck Street and later by the Ebenezer Baptist Chapel.
205 St Christopher's House. Hostel for Guy's Hospital had been Profoto. Stables by Butterworth for bonded carmen
217 Samuel Taylor & Sons Limited, Carmen. Belfry-cum-ventilation at the Gothic end. 1868 First entry for S Taylor.1955 former multi-storey stables over can sheds is of 1886 by J. Butterworth.  Internal ramps beneath the belfry-cum-ventilator at the gable end.
228 Ship.  Closed.
231 Simon the Tanner

237 Oyez Stationary. Stationers Law Society in 1950s factory. Warehouse built for Hepburn and Gale, tanners who merged with Barrow and Sons, 'everything in leather', also used by Britz Bros., fur dealers
239 a large warehouse used by fur dressers, has a lively facade of c. 1875, with cast-iron bars dividing the windows.

Long Walk
19 White Bear. demolished

Maguire Street
Early warehouse, corner of Shad Thames 19th granary, timber frames. Eastern end of Suffolk brick, 1950.
Bramah Tea and Coffee Museum.  Now moved.
9 Clove Building, 1988-9 retained the concrete structure, exposing the columns inside, but created a light well and a new, part- open top floor. 
Shad Thames pumping station.  Storm water pumping station built 1906 for London County Council. Originally it had gas engines, from Campbell Co. of Halifax, electric pumps were brought in after 1984. It is in glazed red brick and terracotta. It was built as part of the L.C.C South London Flood Relief Scheme for Southwark and Bermondsey.  It lifts rain run-off of six metres to discharge it into the Thames

Mill Stream Road,
Neckinger crosses the road; this may be the site of a mill used for gun powder and then paper.
Mill Street
2 Lloyd's Wharf, late c19 facade.  At one time a factory for manufacturing biscuit tins. The units were originally sold as 'shells' for buyers to convert as they wish.
13 Unity Wharf, c. 1850, each face with a gable and a forged-iron wall-crane above the loading bay. Part of the Vogan’s Mills redevelopment
17 Vogan Mills. date from 16th. In 1554, Bermondsey Abbey had a mill at the Neckinger’ mouth. During the 19th James Vogan added a wood hoop factory, a brewery and a slating factory. Vogan Mills ground grain and exotic spices from the East and West Indies. As well as a concrete silo of 1955, there was a pea-splitting mill c. 1850, a pearl barley mill c. 1920, and a lentil mill c.1862.  In the late 1970s the wharf could handle 500 tons of raw materials but restrictions on Heavy Goods Vehicles caused problems and in 1987 they moved to Cambridgeshire and the mill was converted to housing. The grain silo was reconstructed as a seventeen-storey tower by Squires & Partners. The warehouses have a pillared entrance lobby and are listed grade 2.  Some flats have the original oak beams and the entrance cart way, iron columns and some outer walls remain.
25 St.Saviour's flourmill. six-storey mills built 1860 in the general warehouse style. Wall-mounted lattice-jibbed cranes along the dock. Cast-iron columns on the ground floor. 
29 China Wharf. A residential building of 1986 on the east side of New Concordia Wharf Its has a white concrete rear facade with deep flutes. The riverfront is mostly glass but dominated by the centrepiece of red-painted concrete scallops. The lowest balcony has become a surreal boat disappearing under the building. It is now all offices.
33 Reed's Wharf. mid 19th warehouse converted in 1996.  Timber floors and circular cast-iron columns.   Wooden windows
Concordia Wharf.  New Concordia Wharf was built by. Seth Taylor in 1885.  He was a grain merchant and named it after a town called Concordia, near Kansas City, USA, from where much of the grain was imported. In 1934 Taylor sold the buildings to Butlers Wharf Company who undertook not to use the buildings for flour or provender milling. In 1937 the buildings became Tea Warehouses and later were used for tea, stored rubber, paper, film, etc.  Grade 2 listed. Andrew Wadsworth pioneered the conversion these to housing
Peek Frean's. biscuit makers, 1858 -1892. This was their original factory and eventually it burnt down.
Folly ditch – one of two tidal ditches which adjoined the creek to the east.

Mill Stairs
The Harpy. The Chairman of Jacob's Islands Company, responsible for the renovation of New Concordia Wharf, had his office on The Harpy which is an Edwardian HM former Customs & Excise pontoon vessel.  Now usually moored elsewhere.

Morocco Street
Was originally called Lower Russell Street
24 James White tan yard. taken over by Fellmongers Strong Rawle and Strong in 1893.  Tan pits were flushed by the various tidal ditches in the area. Basically the firm was processing skins brought in from slaughter houses. Still operational in the 1980s.
Margetson and Sons, tanners
Benjamin White, leather dressers
1 -3 stables with horses heads and glazed bricks
2a R.W.Autos with horses heads was a smithy/farrier

Road built along the line of the Neckinger
Bermondsey dust destructor, 1902. With electricity works, power to public baths, lot of tanners’ refuses. Switched to LESCO in 1917 and power generation ended in 1929.

Queen Elizabeth Street
Flag Store, premises of 1899 built for Black & Edgington, flag and tent manufacturers, converted into offices and flats by Dransfield Design, 1991-3. A central passage with salvaged iron gate leads to the Canvas House. Originally two warehouses, one of the 1840s, the other 1890, where tents were stored.
20 Albion House, now offices
2-16 warehouses attached to a later block that extends to Tooley Street. Now flats by Michael Ginn Associates, 1994-7.
31 Jubilee Yard. The Pyramid. Artists studio in a cobbled courtyard
The Circle.  Residential development of 302 flats with shops offices. Bright blue. Four big quadrant blocks, with curves faced in ultramarine glazed bricks and linked to make a circular piazza. The other facades are in the area's prevailing yellow brick.  With undulating parapets and bigger balconies. It was part of the redevelopment of the Courage brewery premises.
Jacob, a bronze dray horse by Shirley Place, 1987. It was cast at the Burghleighfield Foundry in High Wycombe. The Courage Brewery Stables were here 1800 – 1985 and the area has been associated with horses since the 16th hence Horselydown Lane. 

Shad Thames
2 Jamaica Wharf. 1883 at the dock- head. Timber and slate hood over the loading doors. Erected by Talbot & Lugg. A courtyard complex of offices, shops and apartments on a small site,
4 Dockhead Wharf. Warehouses with, small iron windows.
6 St.George’s Wharf. The last, late 19th flourmills.  Built 1870 with small, once even smaller, cast-iron windows.
8 St.Saviour's Wharf
12 St.Andrew's Wharf.  For Brown and Co., flour millers.  Perhaps c. 1840.  Retains some of its granary character.  Had an early 19th cast-iron footbridge linking the landside mills. Built in the 1830s, as rice and oil mills but when it closed in 1995, was the last working mill here, it was a spice mill worked by Butler’s Grinders & Operators Ltd. Because of the fire risk it had a large cast iron water tank above the door to feed a sprinkler system.
15 Anise Warehouse. Listed Grade II. 1813 warehouse. Brick in Flemish bond.
16 Java Wharf.  Crown Wharf became part of it and was probably a recasing of 1840. Loading doors, and 20th steel footbridge over the street
18 Saffron Wharf. designed by Conran Roche as offices. Simple framework clad in white stove-enamelled steel panels.
22 David Mellor Building.  workshops for the industrial designer by Michael Hopkins & Partners 1990-1. A simple box, glazed back and front in exposed concrete. It replaced a 19th granary, part of which remains at 15.
24 Cinnamon Wharf. Converted into a hotel.   It was originally flats, completed 1987 by Conran Roche. A particularly successful group
27 Wheat Wharf was Coles Upper Wharf. This was the largest granary in Bermondsey in the mid 19th. The frontage is 1903-4 and designed to redress the severe tilt of the whole building, which is entirely timber-framed. The rear wall has small windows and the remains of two lucams.
28 Design Museum. Art Deco, white in a 1950s warehouse. Opened in July 1989. It exhibits the growth of design and explains how design and technology influenced commerce and culture over the years. There is a double-height first-floor gallery and a top floor Café. The gallery has display cases by Stanton Williams. RIBA London Region Award
Newton after James Watt. Sculpture by Eduardo Paolozzi of a giant head. Erected 1990. Commissioned by Conran.
55 Colonial Wharf
Burma Warehouse. Probably the original 1830s rice mill of five storeys, cast-iron windowsills, and wall tie plates.  Timber floors on stout circular cast-iron columns, supplemented with more timber when it became a rice warehouse in the later 19th. Behind it is the old beam-engine house, two storeys; narrow, with an octagonal chimney: in 1857 this had the largest steam engine in the Bermondsey mills. Various other 19th mill buildings behind had the remains of late 19th edge-runner spice milling equipment.  On the landside was a water tower c. 1900, for fire protection, and a mid-19th cast-iron footbridge across the street
Lime Wharf, sack hoist.  1883, is untypical, in red brick with a gabled sack hoist.
Shuter's Wharf distinctive flat top to their broad gabled roof.
Spillers Mill. made dog biscuits until 1983.  .
Exotic Cargo. Sculpture on the quay in front of the warehouse. A rough lump of pink granite split open like a fruit to reveal all. 1995 by H Randall-Page for Conran Restaurants and the LDDC.

Spa Road
Bermondsey Spa. This was the corner of what are now Rouel and Spa Roads. It was created by artist Thomas Keyse 1722-18. After buying the Waterman's Arms in 1765, he converted some open fields at the rear into pleasure gardens. He also had an art gallery for own paintings. This was on the strength of a spring, discovered in the grounds, which enabled him to use the title of 'spa'. The water was of a somewhat muddy appearance, and some health seekers were persuaded into drinking it.
Plan for Wellington Docks in this area which did not happen.
South London Mission, Bermondsey Central Hall. Methodist. Rebuilt 1968, but keeping the 1900 front by Charles Bell.
Town Hall, Bermondsey Vestry Hall and Municipal Offices.  Partly demolished. The municipal buildings here began with public baths in 1854. In 1879-82 a grand vestry hall was designed by George Elkington surveyor to the local board. It was faced in Portland stone with a public hall occupying most of the first floor for 1,400 people. In 1890-1 a public library by Johnson was added and in 1928-30 new municipal offices were built on the site of the baths. In 1963 the vestry hall was demolished following bombing.
Public Library. The building was opened in 1892 by Sir John Lubbock, MP who was a banker, scientist and author. There was a spacious hall and staircase; a newspaper reading room; and a lending library. There was a librarian’s room and residence. The reference library had a domed roof.
Pearce Duff works. Making custard and blancmange powder
Baths on corner of Neckinger Road. Replaced by baths in Grange Road

St.Olave's estate
St.Olave's estate. Housing put up as part of Bermondsey's inter war slum clearance programme. Extended by a paved square, flats with private gardens and a boys' club, by Peter Moro & Partners, in 1969.

St.Saviour's Dock,
This is the main mouth of the Neckinger and is a tidal inlet - although originally the stream had a number of divisions which flowed to the Thames.  The inlet itself was probably created in the 13th century by the monks from the abbey who enlarged and embanked it. The creek is said to have been navigable at high tide.  A tide-mill was owned by the Abbey which later became a gunpowder mill and later a paper mill. This may have been built to the east of the creek in the1530s and the Neckinger diverted to it leaving the dock as a blind ended creek. Mills and warehouses grew up along its banks and have in the late 20th mainly been converted to housing. 
Footbridge. in stainless steel supported by a central stay. Built 1995 by Whitby & Bird, with Nicholas Lacey & Partners for the LDDC.  
St.George's Stairs. Once had a ferry

Tanner Street
Originally called Russell Street
3-7 James Lord, wool. Simmons & Co., Patent Perambulators
43 Weston Williamson Architect’s Office.  On the site of Sarson’s Yard.  Sustainable features
Sarson’s Malt Vinegar works. Sarson's, traced its history back to 1794. There was a vinegar yard on this site from 1814. They had oak vats standing in the open, adjacent to a complex of small late 19th buildings. There was a square brew house.  British Vinegars Ltd, the largest vinegar brewer in Britain, was formed in 1932 as a merger of several companies, including Sarson's. They were taken over by the Swiss Nestle group in 1979 but continued to manufacture a range of malt, distilled and specialty vinegars under the Sarson's trade name until 1992 when the site closed. The premises are now flats. Archaeological investigation found medieval tannery remains here.
52 Raven in the Tower. originally Raven & Sun. closed and now flats.
Grange Mill Tannery. Barrow Hepburn & Gale tanners made heavy duty belting in the Second World War.  Moved to Bermondsey from Beverley in 1750.
71 Tower Bridge Antiques
47-49 Walter Coles Ltd.
Tanner Street Park. Built on the site of the Tanner Street workhouse. Dr. Alfred Salter planted a tree to mark its opening in 1929.  . The top of the tower of St Olave's church is in the playground used as a fountain which was moved from the demolished church in Tooley Street and the park was built with proceeds of the sale of the church.   Tennis courts community art project involving a 'tagging' exploration, with names blasted on the concrete pavements, with artist Annabelle Dawson
Workhouse - St Olave Southwark Poor Law Union merged into Bermondsey in 1836, Built Bermondsey Workhouse in 1791. After 1836 The Guardians continued using the existing parish workhouse and additions were made in 1844. The buildings formed a square with porter's lodge, dining-hall, kitchens, and guardians' board-room. Male inmates were kept on the west side of the building. In 1865, The Lancet made a number of criticisms – there was often flooding; the infirm wards were likely to foster epidemics, sanitary arrangements were "scandalously bad", accommodation for tramps was insufficient
Swan court
Bermondsey wire works

146 Dockhead Stores pub. Became an Irish pub now offices. Built by Talbot & Lugg 1884, local builders and builders' merchants, established here in 1876. They occupied these premises until the 1970s

The Grange
13 Red Cow. Closed

Tooley Street
201 former London and County Bank. This was built after Tower Bridge approach and anticipated the creation of Tower Bridge Road in 1902.  1900 by William Campbell Jones.
251 King's Arms. Pub with a Victorian exterior and internally, an island bar with mahogany cornices   and   carvings.
283 Southwark Social Services, by Newman & Newman, 1898, built as St Olave's Union office.
Bust of Ernest Bevin, 1955 bronze.  Dockworkers' union official before he became Minister of Labour. By E. Whitney-Smith.
Devon Mansions. Between Tooley Street and Dockhead. Originally called ‘Hanover Buildings’, were built c. 1888 to house 525 dockers' families as a philanthropic venture by James Hartnoll based on revolutionary concepts introduced from Germany. Features in films 'Blue Ice’.
Lambeth College.  Former St Olave's and St Saviour's Grammar School, founded in 1571. The building is 1893-6 by E. W. Mountford, in red brick with white stone. The hall is in the centre with sculpture on the street facade. The original school moved because of the railway and it was Re-opened in Horsleydown. This was also demolished. The two schools merged in 1899 and have since moved to Orpington in 1961. The statue of Queen Elizabeth from the original building was preserved in the garden –now gone to Orpington as has the war memorial.   On the pediments ate reliefs of schoolboys, science, philosophy, Newton and the zodiac.
Police Station and Magistrates' Court. By J. D. Butler, 1904, with a large pediment and a balcony, and a doorway with a curved hood on brackets.
St Olave's Library was at the corner of Tooley Street and Potters' Fields. George Orwell wrote Hop-Picking Diary there. Opened in 1902.  Basement intended for a gym, ground floor library, billiard room and caretaker's flat.
St.Olave Burial Ground, by the school, leased for 500 years. In 1839 the grave digger died of typhus, closed
Statue of Col Sam Bevington as first Mayor of Bermondsey, 1911.  By Sydney March, showing him as first mayor of Bermondsey,
Sufferance Wharf. Development of flats with shops and offices at the end of St. Saviour's Dock. Sufferance Wharves were licensed for the landing of goods overspill from the "Legal Quays".
Tower Bridge Road
Built 1862 and widened by London County Council 1902.The Neckinger crosses it. The road was cut diagonally across the site of the abbey cloister and the 16th mansion of Sir Thomas Pope. Medieval walls, extend parallel to the church wall and run under the road. Of the mansion  corridor and staircase were  identified and a blocked fireplace. Ashlar masonry in yellow Caen stone survived, as did medieval underpinning of the wall and a soak-away for runoff from the roof.  The west tower was revealed under the tarmac with the lowest few steps of the staircase evident
22 Haddon Hall Baptist Church
40 The George

64 The Hartley, was previously called The Pagoda
87 Manze’s Eel and Pie shop. Michele Manze came from Ravello in 1878.The family settled in Bermondsey and traded as ice-merchants, and ice-cream makers. Michele then took to the pie, mash & eels trade. The first shop was at 87 Tower Bridge Road, and He went on to open others. Some of his brothers also opened shops and by 1930 there were 14 pie, mash & eel shops called Manze. By 1988 Graham, Geoff and Richard Manze had the Tower Bridge shop.
157 Cinema Antique Warehouse. Site since redeveloped.
159 Premier Inn
168 Antiques Exchange converted to housing.
176 Leathersellers' College Opened in 1909 with educational and laboratory facilities. Now in other use as Osteopathy House.
196 Pommellers Rest. Former Tower Bridge Hotel by Latham A. Withall, 1896-7, Jacobean style with dome.
208 The River Bar and Brasserie. Was previously The Copper
218 Ye Olde Bridge House . Home brew pub in 1994 brewing two house beers. Mock Tudor interior with   foreign   currency fixed to the ceiling. The brewery was later moved elsewhere and the room in the pub used for games.
Feaver tin  box factory. Sited near the end of Grange Walk.
Lazenby’s pickle factory, bought by Crosse and Blackwell
Liptons Factory. Factory built by Lipton's in 1928 for sausages. The site is now part of Trust House Forte.
London County Council subways. One grille in the west pavement and three on road islands.
Parish mark
Railway Bridge over the road.
Built at the same time as the road. 60 ft

Tyer’s Gate
Kenson Leather Warehouse
4-6 warehouse with high ground floor
V2 an airburst over Bermondsey March 1945 from which parts fell through the roof of Braybrook's Tannery in Tyers Gate. 

Webb Street
Oxford and Bermondsey Boys Club

Whites Grounds
Parish mark on wall. ‘St.MMB’ is Mary Magdalene Bermondsey ‘St.JS’ is St.John’
2 is also 1 Tanner Street was Tan Yard is still a tanners
27 Black Eagle Brewery. Noakes brewery founded 1697,
Skate park

Wild’s Rents
6 Gilly's

Sunday, 25 April 2010

Thames Tributary Neckinger - Walworth

Thames Tributary Neckinger
The Neckinger is said to have flowed down Brook Drive and then across the southern section of the Elephant and Castle interchange. It then turned north east towards Bermondsey Abbey and St.Saviours dock.

Post to the east Bricklayers Arms
Post to the south Camberwell Road
Post to the north Borough

Amelia Street
18 Eurotraveller Hotel is a conversion of the old Queen's Head Pub
Express Hotel
Police car pound
Pullens Open Space

Aylesbury Estate
Impersonal megalomaniac constructions designed by architect Derek Winch and built starting in 1963. There were 2,700 dwellings designed to house roughly 10,000 residents. The final blocks of flats were completed in 1977 and the estate included a nursery, a day centre and a health centre. The estate went through a period of decline in the 1980s. In 1999 the estate was awarded New Deal for Communities status and given £56.2m of central government funding. In 2005, the London Borough of Southwark decided to demolish and replace the dwellings
Michael Faraday School, By the G.L.C. Architect's Department. A good example of the open plan primary school as developed by I. L.E. A. in the 1960s. Exterior with blue cladding and low pitched roofs. To be redeveloped.

Balfour Street
93 Henshaw Arms. Gone and replaced by modern housing.

Barlow Street
2 Flacks Pub. Gone
32 Victory. Courage Alton brewery pub with an etched glass Jug and Bottle sign. Ornate ceiling pillars. Gone
Beresford Buildings. Home of Augustus Durandeau, Writer of 'if you want to know the time ask a policeman' Gone.

Brandon Street
Earliest Guinness Trust Flats, 1891
88 Stroke of Luck, previously the Northumberland Arms
115 Crown Pub. Wenlock Ale house style and decoration.
Walters Close. In 1961 the Drapers' Company built new almshouses called to replace old ones in Draper Street. A decade later they enlarged them to house the residents from Glasshill Street

Browning Street
This was originally called York Street.
Browning Hall. It was demolished in 1950. The Revd Francis Herbert Stead was concerned that old people were being treated unfairly and campaigned for a government pension. In 1899 a national committee was formed with its headquarters at Browning Hall. In 1908 the first Old Age Pensions Act was passed. The Robert Browning Settlement, which continues to do important work today, was started in 1895. Its roots lie in the York Street Chapel which had originally been Lock Field Meeting House, eventually became Browning Hall, named after the poet who was baptised there
3 Fellowship house Independent Church
59 Browning Community Hall
Carter Place
In 1950 this part of Carter Street in was renamed Carter Place
Walworth Police Station. In 1856 the lease on a house and grounds known as Walworth House was bought by the police station. The station was known as Walworth/Carter Street. This police station was demolished in 1909 and the Carter Street station was built and opened in 1910. Carter Street Police Station became a sub-divisional station of M Division with Camberwell as its Sectional Station in 1965. It has a macho reputation in dealing with South London criminals, including the Richardson gang. The Great Train Robbers were also among those known to serving officers.

Carter Street
60 Beehive Pub. There has been a pub on this site since the 1770s. The Beehive was a cricket ground where the Surrey County side played. .

Chatham Street
Eternal Sacred Order of Cherubim and Seraphim. Built as Lady Margaret Church. Dates from 1880-9. It is a small red brick mission church. Now closed. Designed by Ewan Christian in Brick, Early English

Crail Row
1 Darwin Court. Housing for Peabody Trust. Housing for the over 50s and community centre for everyone else.

Darwin Street
20 Globe Pub, Gone.

Dawes Street
126 Queen Anne pub. Gone

East Street
East Street links Walworth Road with the Old Kent Road
Walworth Recreation Ground. Might be part of old Walworth Common - London County Council prevented building on it
24 Good Intent
51 Bell Pub previously Royal Albert
109 Mason's Arms
153 George IV. Gone
153a the first family planning clinic. Plaque to Dr.Charles Vickery Drysdale which says ‘a founder of the Family Planning Association, opened his first birth control clinic here in 1921'. Plaque erected 1988.
St Mark demolished 1950. By Jarvis, l874.

Elephant and Castle
Shopping Centre. The popular gilt models, saved when the Elephant and Castle Tavern was demolished in 1959, in front of the shopping centre. Bright pink shopping mall built in the 1960s and often slated for ugliness, soon to be redeveloped again.
Hannibal House. Office block on top of the centre

Elephant Road
Elephant and Castle Station. 1st June 1864. Between Blackfriars and Loughborough Junction on Thameslink. Between Blackfriars and Loughborough Junction and also Denmark Hill on South Eastern Trains London Chatham and Dover Railway temporary station 1863 resited. Entrance on Elephant Road and in the shopping centre.
137 an arch used as a bus garage in the 1920s.

Elsted Street
70 Huntsman and Hounds pub

Flint Street
Myrrh. Adult Training Centre
English Martyrs School, By L. Stokes, 1904.

Heygate Street
Heygate Estate. 1970s estate. Now being demolished.
The Two Caryatids sculpture by Henry Poole, originally created in 1897 for the old Rotherhithe Public Library, stood in a locked garden behind the church for many years, but was removed in 2009
Pain’s Firework Factory in 1830s

King and Queen Street
24 Gladstone Pub
31 Newington Arms Lodge. Was a pub is now housing
Robert Browning Community School

Larcom Street
St.John 1851. A ragstone church with tower by H. Jarvis.
Vestry 1912 by Greenaway & Newberry.
Walworth Clinic. Built 1937. Blue plaque to Charles Babbage, computer pioneer, born near here on 1791

Liverpool Grove
Sutherland Congregational Chapel, 1842. Built for the Congregational preacher Dr Edward Andrews. A monumental classical front with two giant Tuscan columns. Closed in 1894 and became a cinema, now housing.
Liverpool Grove Estate. Built under the guidance of Octavia Hill. Group of flats centre by entrance doorway. Big contrast with the Aylesbury Estate built by Cluttons. For the Ecclesiastical commissioners who sold it off against tenants wishes in the late 2000s
St Peter’s Church of England Primary School. Rev George Ainsley purchased land between St Peter’s Church and Sutherland Chapel and a building comprising of two schoolrooms was built in 1839. The National Society funded it. Later, in July 1851, a new school was built in Shaftesbury Street. This was demolished in 1905 and the present school was built.
St.Peter. A Commissioners' church designed in 1823-5 by Sir John Soane. Ionic with a stone steeple and inside it is plain and galleried. In the Second World War bombed and 84 people killed in the crypt. Restored 1954. White marble font made by Garland and Fieldwick, a local firm of masons.
Churchyard a dull park with gravestones around the edge. Maintained as a public garden which was laid out by the Metropolitan Public Gardens Association, paid for by Goldsmiths' Company, and opened in May 1895. Monkey Park which was a menagerie kept by a past Reverend, but is now a garden

Manor Place
Pullens Estate. Older tenement blocks with workshops.
154 Duke of Clarence Pub. Closed and now housing
204 Surrey Garden Arms also called Rosie O’Grady’s
Newington Baths and Wash Houses opened on 26 March 1898 and were in use until 1978. Opened by the Parish of Saint Mary. E.B.LI'Anson was the architect. In 1936 improvements were made to the system for cleaning the water in the swimming bath. A new continuous filtration, operating on a two-and-a-half hour turnover, was introduced. This had the most modern method known - Vosmaer Perfect System of Electrolytic Ozonation. Manor Place Baths were the first in Britain to use this ozonation plant. Grade II listed. Renovated by the Kagyu Samye Dzong Tibetan Buddhist Centre who obtained a five-year lease in 2005. They opened it as their London centre, called Manor Place Samye Dzong in 2007.
Recycling depot

Mason Street
Townsend Primary School. Named after its benefactor, John Townsend, who was a local minister. The building originally was for deaf and dumb children. There are stone plaques on the outside about this. The school was closed in the 1930s, re-opening in 1951 to meet local demand for school places
24 Gloucester Pub. Closed

Merrow Street.
42 Queen Elizabeth pub

New Kent Road
Runs due east from the Elephant to Tower Bridge Road.
116 Crown & Anchor
128 Watling House, new development of flats managed by the Landmark Housing Association.
134 Harris Plumbers Merchant. Gone and site turned into housing. This building was Bull’s scenery factory and store.
136-42 Kwick Fit
155 158 Pole Position motorcycle workshop and racing team HQ.
156-170 Listed Grade II, Late 18th terrace. Multi-coloured stock brie
172-180 Driscoll House Hotel was Ada Lewis Hostel for Business Girls opened in 1913. This was a lodging house for 240 women opened by Princess Louise, Duchess of Argyll. Closed in 2007. Listed Baroque building
83 is a residence for students at London South Bank University,
95 Tavern Court is a six-storey building managed by Landmark Housing Association, opened in 2005. On the site of County Terrace Tavern
Albert Barnes House, an 18-storey block owned by the London Borough of Southwark. 1964 and contains 99 flats from 1883 to 1886, it was the site of a fish and provisions market promoted by Samuel Plimsoll.
Camberwell and Southwark Junior Commercial and Technical College
County Terrace houses bombed and replaced by flats
County Terrace Tavern now site of Tavern Court. Until the development of the public house in the 19th century the area was fields.
Crossways Mission Crossway Congregational Union, 1905 by Hugh Mackintosh tall asymmetrical tower. Demolished 1950.
David Copperfield Garden, memorial 1932 by the Dickens' Fellowship. In the book David, rested while going to find Betsy Trotwood. The statue lost its head to vandalism. Closed for a re-design in 2006 and had a complete re-landscaping. The original design had benches based on the milestones that David Copperfield passed on his fictional journey, but they have gone as has the memorial.
Falmouth Road Park. Opened March 2006. The bench is made from timber from a London plane tree that once stood on the Tower of London Wharf, and features designs created by local children.
Institute of the Congregational Union
Paragon Garden. Small half-moon shaped garden, named after the building erected on the site in 1787, designed by Michael Searles and demolished in the 1890s when the road was widened.
Public garden with plaque Pilgrim Fathers sailed in the Mayflower from Rotherhithe in 1620 to New England in search of religious freedom. The plaque near the flyover commemorates this.
St Andrew, by Newman & Billing, 1882. Demolished 1950
St. Matthew's Church 1855-7 by H. Jarvis. Ragstone front with tower and spire to one side. Interior remodelled 1926-7 by A.Travers. The arcade columns were encased by Tuscan plaster columns, the clerestory windows added, and the apse closed off by a screen with reredos.
St Matthews at the Elephant a contemporary church and community centre rebuilt in 1993 on the site of the old St Matthews church. The church has particularly good acoustics and hosts musical performances as well as community events and services. The main building is built low, with a separate minimalist iron spire
St Saviour and St Olave's School for Girls, 1903 by Campbell Jones. Later wing 1928. Is an amalgamation of St Olave's Grammar School and St Saviours Grammar School for Boys. The two boys' schools had existed nearby for 300 years. Queen Elizabeth I granted a Royal Charter in 1562 to St Saviour's Grammar School, and in 1571 a similar charter was granted to St Olave's Grammar School . In 1968 the boys in St Olave's Grammar School moved to a new school in Orpington. The girls' school was opened in 1903 by the Prince and Princess of Wales . The school was remodelled in 1961. A new assembly hall, a well-equipped kitchen and four new science laboratories were added. And it was opened by Princess Alexandra in 1964 and is for girls aged 11 to 18,
Welsh Presbyterian Chapel, a listed building built in mixed Queen Anne and Romanesque revival. Since 1991, it has been the main London home of the Brotherhood of the Cross and Star, based in Nigeria and led by Olumba Olumba Oby who followers describe as "the sole spiritual head of the universe". Worshippers wear distinctive white robes

Occupation Road
Occupation Studios

Old Kent Road
Old Kent Road Library. At the junction of the Old and New Kent Roads and demolished in 1968 for the Bricklayers Arms flyover. Foundation stone was laid on 8 March 1907 by Princess Christian. The site was given by Lord Llangattock and his son, the Hon. John Maclean Rolls. Andrew Carnegie, contributed £7,000 towards the building. The architect was Claude Batley. It had a clock tower with a weather vane of a Viking ship. Windows showed the Canterbury pilgrims starting from the Tabard Inn, Sir John Falstaff, John Gower Oliver Goldsmith, Charles Dickens, Eliza Cook, Coventry Patmore, John Ruskin, John Harvard and Andrew Carnegie.

Orb Street
40 Prince Regent pub. gone
Nursery Row. park with plane trees

Penrose Street
Walworth main works, original L.C.C. Tram Depot 1891
St.Pauls CofE E Primary School
Surrey Gardens community hall

Rodney Road
Rodney Estate
1 Archduke Charles. Pub. Closed and demolished.
94 Rose and Crown pub
English Martyrs R.C. 1902-3 by F. W. Tasker. Yellow brick exterior. Altar and reredos etc. 1961 by F. G. Broadbent & Partners. Carmelite friars
Victory Primary School

Tatum Street
St.Christopher's Church Built 1892 / 1908. Architect: E S Prior / H Passmore Listed: grade 2. Owned and part of the Pembroke College Mission
Pembroke College Mission. Original hall is one of the few works of A&C architect, E.Prior, 1892. The lower part by him the church above completed c. 1908 by H. Passmore. Remodelled as church and hall by Williams & Winkley, 1976. Church of a different, interesting design. Remodelled 1976

Trafalgar Street
137 Lord Nelson pub

The name is ‘Wealawyrth’ in an Anglo-Saxon charter of 1001, and ‘Waleorde’ in the Domesday Book. It means 'enclosed settlement of the Britons', from the Old English. The name is interesting because it indicates the survival of a Celtic population in this area into the Anglo-Saxon period. The district is now indistinguishable from its neighbours, but had an independent existence at Domesday. It extends from the Elephant area south to the edge of Camberwell and is bisected by Walworth Road and the railway from Holborn Viaduct. On the west it touches Kennington and merges with the area around the Old Kent Road. Originally it included the Newington district.

Walworth Grove
8/9 edge runners in a drug mill for John Waylade Ltd., grinder to the Drug Trade. From 1922 Brome and Skinner. Originally, a little house used for industry instead of a home. Closed because of fire risk in 1978

Walworth Road
116-118 Stanhope House. T.Clarke. Electrical contractors.
144-152 John Smith House. Terrace of houses renamed in memory of John Smith, who was leader of the Labour Party from 1992 up to his sudden death in 1994. A former headquarters of the Labour Party,
155-157 Southwark Town Hall 1866. Formerly St. Mary Newington Vestry Hall. It was built in 1864-5 to the designs of Henry Jarvis, district surveyor. It had offices on the ground floor and a vestry hall and two committee rooms on the first floor. In the 1890s it was extended by Jarvis for more office space, linking it to the public library of 1893. From 1900-65 it was the town hall for the Metropolitan Borough of Southwark and later was used as offices and a registry office. The site had belonged to the Fishmongers' Company.
178 Tankard pub. Edwardian Tudor style pub with good chimneys and windows.
195 Herbert Morrison House. London Labour Party Headquarters until the 1990s. This was the Robert Browning Settlement taken over as the London Labour Party headquarters and renamed by them. Browning Hall is incorporated in the building.
204 Monaghan‘s Bar was the King’s Head. Tile work in the doorway with a drinking scene from Shakespeare’s ‘Henry VIII’.
262 Horse and Groom pub. Impressive personalised mirror. Closed and taken over by a bank
267 The Beaten Path was previously called Prince Alfred pub
286 Temple Bar

374 Banana Bar was previously Liam Og’s Tavern. Roof garden
407 Red Lion pub
Cuming Museum. devoted to the history of Southwark, but relics of Michael Faraday. The collection includes Roman and medieval remains; the Marshalsea prison pump; the Dog and Pot shop sign; the Lovett collection of London superstitions and examples of George Tinworth's modelling. The founder was Richard Cumming who with his son gathered objects from around the world. The collection began in 1782 when a Mrs. Coleman gave five year old Richard a copper coin from India and three pieces of fossil. His house soon had his own museum. After his son Henry's death, the contents of the museum became the property Of the Metropolitan Borough of Southwark.
Health Centre built 1937. It was opened on in 1937 and included a tuberculosis centre, dental and sanitary services, an artificial and radiant heat clinic, a maternity and child welfare centre, a solarium and a Public Analyst's Department.
La Bodeguita. Colombian restaurant in the Elephant and Castle mall.
Newington Library - Central Library dates from 1893. It had collections of work about Elizabethan and Jacobean Southwark and books about Faraday and Electrical Science, and ones published by Harvard University. The Michael Faraday Memorial Library was opened in 1927 and a bust of Michael Faraday was given by the Institution of Electrical Engineers,
Strata, 43-storey residential block. Officially called The Castle House in a scheme which minimises energy and used wind turbines and a combined heat and power plant.
Walworth Road Baptist Church, demolished in 1950.

Monday, 19 April 2010

Thames Tributary Neckinger -St.George's and Waterloo

Thames Tributary Neckinger
The Neckinger wound around Lambeth and Kennington from a source which probably in Mary Harmsworth Park. It appears to go to the Thames in two directions – one to the East at St. Saviours, and three to the west around Westminster Bridge.

Post to the north Southwark
Post to the west Lambeth Riverside
Post to the east Borough

Austral Street
27 Two Eagles two-bar side street ex-pub

Baylis Road
Was Oakley Street and renamed after Lillian Baylis niece to the Victorian 'lady who transformed the Old Vic into a theatre of the first rank. Features in films 'File of the Golden Goose’.
33 Duke of Sussex. Pub opposite the Old Vic, popular with London Transport staff from the nearby bus depot. Old pictures of the surrounding area on the walls.
Flats an unusually attractive cluster, 8-19 storeys, and load-bearing brick, with crisply projecting balconies. By Stillman & Eastwick Field, 1963 part of the G.L.C.'s Tanswell Estate.
Millennium Gardens. Contemporary gardens on the corner with Waterloo Road with large expanses of grass and a modern water feature with large naturalistic boulders and atmospheric planting. Features in films 'Ring of Spies’.
Campbell Buildings, c.1905. On site of works of Maudslay, Sons & Field, engineers. Built when Waterloo Station was enlarged, 1907-22. Said that they were for L&SW Railway employees, or for those displaced from streets on which Waterloo Station was built. Demolished 1980/1. Excavations here revealed deep water channels.

Belevedere Place
Board School 1874. Now gone.
Friendship House. Zinc tiles and bright colours around a courtyard with a pool. Self catering accommodation for 179 working people and students with a common room and dining room provided by the London Hostels Association

Blackfriars Road
Was called Albion Road. Runs due north to the bridge across the Thames and was laid out as an approach to that bridge. Much manufacturing in the area: John Bally Fairy soap makers were here, there were Lots of beer engine manufacturers in the 18th - John Chadwell in 1801. G.Green 1809 Thomas Towntre in 1801.
72 Ring. The pub takes its name from the Blackfriar's Ring, a boxing venue before 1940. Original Friary Meux windows. In keeping with the boxing tradition, the pub had a gym upstairs and photographs of boxers around the bar. One landlord once trained a Commonwealth Flyweight champion.
74-86 remains of Georgian terraces. Some listed Grade II.
108 Crown. Pub built in 1837 with a bright facade.
115 David Barker House. Salvation Army Hostel for homeless men who have slept rough,
123 Flowers of the Forest pub. Gone. Demolished
154/6. Blackfriars Foundry. Office centre in building of 1896/7 built for Rotary Type-Casting Co., makers of compositing machines. It has since been used as a type foundry, brewers engineer's, exporters' and switch gear maker and suppliers.
173 Imbibe was recently Babushka. Modern styled Bar and Restaurant which specialised in vodka. Was the Old King's Head which apart from a dart board, had no other facilities
176 Sons of Temperance. Building designed by Arthur Russell and opened in 1910 by Sir Vesey Strong, Lord Mayor of London. The Friendly Society began 19th and continues to promote the benefits of alcohol-free lifestyles. This is the national headquarters of the organisation but it was built for the London Grand Division. Its former chairmen are known as Grand Worthy Patriarchs.
186-189 c.1777 74-86
18l-183 1800.
Peabody Square. Built 1872- 80. By H.A.Darbyshire on the site of the Magdalen Hospital. Sixteen four-storey blocks around two courtyards with trees. Separate laundries. The flats had shared sculleries, and staircase access. Modernised in the 1988; Grade II listed
Magdalen Hospital was founded in 1758 at Whitechapel for the training of penitent prostitutes. Thus six acre site was later developed. Later, the hospital moved to Streatham
133 Erlang House. Used by the University of the South Bank
Surrey Theatre. Established 1782 by Charles Hughes, a trick horse rider and song-writer Charles Dibdin as the Royal Circus and Equestrian Philharmonic Academy. Burnt down 1803 and rebuilt and then renamed the Surrey Theatre in 1816. Rebuilt again after another fire in 1865.In 1921 it became a cinema and it was demolished in 1935.
Royal Eye Hospital. Hospital founded in 1857 by John Zachariah Laurence. It was first called the South London Ophthalmic Hospital. The foundation stone of the new building was laid in 1890 by the Prince of Wales. It had forty beds, but fourteen were closed through lack of funds. It was built on sand and had no drain underneath. Open in all directions; every corner was rounded for cleanliness and for the blindfolded patients. It went into the National Health Service in 1948 and eventually became part of St Thomas's Hospital. It closed in 1984. During demolition in 1994 it collapsed on to the roader
Hostel for South Bank University students. On the site of the Royal Eye Hospital.

Borough Road
109-112 Presbyterian chapel. Built 1848 with a frontage of giant pilasters. It was used as –part of Hoe's printing-press manufactory which was next door and demolished. Listed Grade II. The frontage is due to be renovated by Lifschutz Davidson Sandilands as part of a development by London South Bank University.
170 and extended into also Rotary Street. Robert Hoe's factory which made rotary printing presses. The factory extended into a number of other buildings. The main factory included the former chapel. Demolished 1983.
Tower Block. South Bank University – houses the Tower Restaurant and the National Bakery School.
Learning Resources Centre South Bank University –
30 Bridge House. Was a pub now a café, street comer local.
South Bank University - Borough Polytechnic. Founded because of Joseph Lancaster, who started a free school for poor children in 1801 on what became the Lancastrian system. Schools followed all over England and other countries. In 1843 the British and Foreign Bible Society opened a training college in Borough Road on Lancaster's school site and this was followed in 1892 by the establishment of the Polytechnic .The front of the building is by Le Maitre 1930; but the older buildings are those of the British and Foreign School Society.
7-12 St George's Library Passmore Edwards library. Foundation stone laid in December 1897 by Passmore Edwards. He had written a letter to the press in which he offered to build the library on condition that the parish adopted the Public Libraries Act 1892. It is no longer a library. Originally there was a newsroom, lending library, ladies' rooms and boys' room. A reference library was on the first floor with a bookstore attached, a committee room, and the librarian's residence.

Brook Drive.
The Neckinger is said to have run down it.

Boundary Row
Built along a dyke, following a branch of the Neckinger and enclosing Paris Garden.

Copperfield Street
British Trolley Track Company 1939 works and store built. 1930's utilitarian style.

Davidge Street
Called after George Davidge who was a Harlequin who performed at Surrey Theatre and elsewhere. Previously called Little Surrey Street.
Bazeley House, Corporation of London housing.
42 Dover Castle now housing and offices

Elephant and Castle
The Neckinger is said to run underneath it
Elephant & Castle., This was a circus of six converging roads and the best known of south London junctions. A comprehensive development was proposed in the L.C.C. plan of 1951; and began in 1956 There was a re-alignment of roads, pedestrian subways, car parks, office blocks, shopping mall and twenty-five storey blocks of flats, and a modern College of Printing.
Elephant & Castle. . In 1641 a forge was set here up by a John Flaxman to pick up passing trade. In 1760 the smithy became a tavern and a coaching terminus in the 18th. The tavern was replaced in the 19th and has since moved to a different site. The pub had a large model of an elephant and castle as its sign - One story says that this represents the Infanta di Castille who fled from the Inquisition and stayed at the pub. However, an elephant and castle was a common enough heraldic sign, used in the arms of the Cutlers' Company which dealt in ivory from 1622.
Faraday Memorial Generating station. On the main island, the inscription says:” This stainless steel sculpture commemorates Michael Faraday 1791-1867 English chemist and physicist known for his research into electricity and magnetism who lived locally.' Faraday was born in 1791 in Newington Butts. The structure also contains an electrical substation for the Northern Line.
London College of Communication was the London College of Printing. Built 1964 by L.C.C. The earlier parts consist of two curtain-walled blocks of four and fourteen storeys, by the L.C.C. Architect's Department. An extension of 1969-73 is more idiosyncratic.
Elephant and Castle Station. Intermediate station of the City of London and Southwark Railway Which opened later than the rest of the line in 1906. The railway was taken over by Yerkes in 1902. It has a concrete and iron platform and its original lift gate was worked by compressed air. Thus us a Leslie Green designed station with a Steel frame and glazed with ruby red bricks.

Frazier Street
Johanna Primary School. 1967. By Andrew Renton & Associates, a low red brick building with taller hall. Web site leads on uniforms.

Glasshill Street
Almshouses for the Drapers Company 1820. Founded by John Walter, Clerk to the Drapers' Company in 1616 for forty years. By his will he left property in trust for the maintenance of the alms folk. New almshouses known as St Georges Cottages were built on a different site in the street and including gardens, stores and washhouses.

Great Suffolk Street
Gravel Lane in 1914. Recalls the historic Tudor mansion of Suffolk Park that once stood here. This was built along a dyke on a branch of the Neckinger enclosing the manor of Paris Garden.
Grande Vitesse goods depot. Now industrial centre. Built 1900 by the South Eastern & Chatham Railway for Continental goods. Just before the viaduct is a spur up to the LCDR
59 Southwark Bacon Company. Founded c. 1925, drying and curing bacon in traditional kilns. Yellow and blue brick. Stoves stood in a range behind. It was he Empire Bacon Curing Co. and became Friars Bacon Co. until 1921. Later it was the Southwark Bacon Drying Co. in Fitch and Co. closed 1980. Loading bay in Loman Street with goods doors on the first floor.
Bridges of the South Eastern Railway - Piransian arches. Features in films 'Trauma’ as St.Mary’s Apartments.
London Fire Brigade Community Sports Facility
Victoria Buildings
79-83 The Wireworks

Hercules Road
Built in the 18th on marshland. In Roman times must have been a large lake. Much of the area was developed by the horse showman, Philip Astley, who lived in Hercules Hall at the north corner of the street. Hercules referred to one of his shows, ‘Twelve Labours. Features in film 'Passport to Pimlico’.
Hercules Buildings was developed by Philip Astley on the east side of the road. William Blake lived at 13.
28-34, nice early C 19 cottages with iron verandas. Pleasant
William Blake Estate. Blake lived locally although his house has been demolished. This Corporation of London estate has 126 properties, including ten houses, shops and parking. Blake House was built in 1922, Donnelly House and McAuley Close in 1981. The estate also includes York House, Lynton Mansions and St James Mansions
Central Office of Information
53 Pineapple pub. Large free house, popular with locals, office workers and students. Features in films 'Melody’

Kennington Road
The A23: a long straight road, about a mile long. Built on open land, in 1751, shortly after Westminster Bridge was opened, by the Turnpike Trust.
Christ Church. Congregational. Only the Lincoln Memorial Tower survives of the original bombed church by Paull & Bickerdike, 1873-6, standing at the fork of two main roads. The spire is decorated with stars and stripes because the building funds came from America. The tower now contains a lift as now part of an office block, with the church on the ground floor shown by a window behind a concrete screen. The church was built in 1958-60, the halls and offices slightly later. The architect was Peter J. Darvall. Replaced Rowland Hill’s Surrey Chapel which was in Blackfriars Road. In 1859 the trustees bought this site and built a complex of buildings, which included Christ Church, Hawkstone Hall and the Tower. Hawkstone Hall used for community activities and named after Rowland Hill’s birthplace.
2 Meeting Point Chinese restaurant. Was the Hercules Tavern - A one-bar local with an art-deco style interior.
Kennington police station
67 Three Stags. Large pub opposite the Imperial War Museum. Charlie Chaplin is alleged to have used the pub and it is reputed that his father lived here.
111 Grand Union pub, was once called The Tankard
China Walk estate 1929. London County Council.

King James Street
Hunter House - more traditional by Joseph, Son & Smithem, of 1899, relieved only by Jacobean trimmings. London County council

Kings Bench Street
Kings Bench Prison. This is within the area covered by the rules of the Kings Bench. A prison which took its name from the King's Bench court where cases of defamation, bankruptcy were heard and the prison was used as a debtor's prison. During the reign of Henry VIII, a new prison was built in this area within a brick wall. This was moved and demolished in 1761.
St Alphege Church which was in Lancaster Street until the 1980s. The new church has furniture from the old building.

Lambeth Road
Leads south-west From St. George's Circus to Lambeth and Lambeth Bridge. Several terraces of c. 1800 houses. Features in films 'Melody’
Barkham Terrace
Barkham London Clinic. Site of Baptist chapel
Upton Baptist Chapel, 1813-14. Demolished 1950. Now merged with Christ Church
St.Saviour 1874/5 cross.
17 Lambeth Walk. This one bar pub has modern interior and a wall frieze, depicting the Pearly Kings. Previously this was the Mesons Arms.
52 Elizabeth Baxter Hostel. Oasis Trust Health Centre for homeless people. It is a Grade II listed building by Mr. Sydney Smirke. Set up as The Royal South London Dispensary in 1821 to provide medical aid to poor sick people. The hostel was founded in 1906 for the welfare of girls and women at risk. Elizabeth Baxter was the wife of the Revd M.P. Baxter who gave tickets to people in desperate need.
98 Late 18th terrace. Stock brick with parapets.
Lambeth public baths built in 1897 and hit by a V2
44 St George's Tavern. Pub opposite the Imperial War Museum. Carved wood mirrored back to the bar. Public and Saloon Bars are separated by a wooden screen with a connecting door.
Lodge a small stucco lodge date 1837 for Bethlehem Hospital.
St Georges Cathedral. RC. Building originally designed by A. W. Pugin and consecrated by Dr Wiseman in 1848 and in 1850. Wiseman was enthroned as the Archbishop of Westminster. In April 1941 the cathedral was badly damaged by fire bombs but some of the original fabric was safe incorporated in the rebuilt structure which opened in July 1958. It is a light brick and Portland stone. The Chantry was designed by Edward Pugin, son of the architect. Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament. Chapel of St. Joseph, and t. Patrick's Chapel, with the only statue that escaped damage in bombing. Petre Chantry, Lady Chapel, with a statue, the cathedral's oldest, of the Virgin Mary. Statue by H.J.Youngman of St. George to whom the cathedral is dedicated.
Bishop's Palace adjoins. Late 19th
The Lambeth Mission at the eastern end of Lambeth Road has a hostel accommodating 85 students, mainly from overseas. Methodist Mission Hostel Joint Anglican-Methodist church
Imperial War Museum. The building was part of the former Bethlem Royal Hospital, or Bedlam, founded in 1247 in the City. The front was the administrative block of Bedlam's third building built in 1815 to designs of James Lewis. extensions of 1837 and 1896 also survive but the patients wings were demolished in the early 1930s, The Dome was added in 1846 designed by Sydney Smirke but rebuilt in the 1970s. It contained the hospital chapel with galleries on cast iron supports but is now a library reading room. The hospital moved to Eden Park in 1926. The Museum collection was founded in 1917 and established by Act of Parliament in 1920. It was at Crystal Palace until 1923 when it moved to the Imperial Institute at South Kensington and in 1936 moved here. The building was bombed and was closed in the Second World War. Outside two fifteen-inch naval guns point out. It has now been refurbished by Ove Arup with a glazed atrium in the middle of the building.
Geraldine Mary Harmsworth Gardens. It opened in 1934. The land was given to the "splendid struggling mothers of Southwark" by Harmsworth, Lord Rothermere in memory of his mother. Soviet War Memorial 1999 by Sergei Shcherbakov to commemorate the loss of 27 million citizens of the former Soviet Union in the Second World War. Tibetan Peace Garden by Hamish Horsley for contemplation and reflection opened 1999 by the Dalai Lama. Copse, a family orchard, a world garden and an Ice Age Tree trail. The Neckinger is said to rise in the front

Lancaster Street
St.Alfege chapel. Built 1880-2 by Robert Willey. Famous for its extreme Anglo- Catholicism. This was on the corner with King James Street and, is now flats.
Albury and Clandon. London County Council blocks. Staircases with Tudor details. The scale of these early flats should be compared with what the L.C.C. put up shortly afterwards
Danzig Street in Booth but he says late Market Street

London Road
A short but busy street of shops that leads to the Elephant and Castle. Modest terraces of the 1820s survive;
South London Palace of Varieties a music hall which was bombed in the Second World War. Built on the site of a chapel for French refugees. The site is now under the college complex.
South London Press. Above the Elephant and Castle tube station now based in Streatham - a local paper founded in 1865
Depot for Bakerloo Line. Repair shops on a 3-acre open site. This was the original repair depot for the Bakerloo opened in 1906.
South Bank Polytechnic. This is what used to be the Borough Polytechnic and the College of Commerce. These buildings are by the G.L.C. Architect's Department Peter Jones and John Weller 1976. Four storeys, the lowest below road level. Inside is a three storey 'street' with offices, students' rooms, etc. on one side and on the other sports hall, library, and auditorium.
Perronet House, eleven storey residential tower block. Built 1969 by Sir Roger Walters commissioned by the Greater London Council.

Lower Marsh
This area was marshland and used for duck shooting until the 19th hence the street name. Around 1810 it was drained and developed. It became an area for prostitutes and cardsharpers.
Street market which operates every day and has done so since the 19th
5 Waterloo Health Centre
34 Ruby Lounge which was the Spanish Patriot. Corner pub 19th.
114-118 Waterloo Library
121 Camel and Artichoke. This was formerly known as The Artichoke. Pub with a balcony.
127 Thai restaurant. Had above the doors oil jars, dog and pot coalhole cover.

Mead Row
Wellington Mills. Housing Co-operative. Built by the G.L.C. job architect, 1970-6. 138 maisonettes grouped in low ranges round courtyards. The long brick balconies reminiscent of the thirties but are private spaces and not used for access.
Site of Wellington Mills built on some of the Coade works site. Joshua Oakley & Sons manufacturer’s made emery and sand paper, and blacking. etc.

Mepham Street,
Hole in the Wall. A busy Free House located in railway arches adjacent to Waterloo Mainline railway station.

Morton Place
6 home of Emma Cons and Lillian Baylis, founders of the Old Vic.

Nelson Square
A square of Georgian houses which was badly bombed. Infill of modern flats. Past inhabitants include Shelley, Thomas Barnes, editor of The Times 1817- 1841, Lloyd John engineer and millwright
44 Blackfriars Settlement left Nelson Square in 2001, having been based there for over a century. It began as the Women's University Settlement. Alice Gruner worked from here.
44-47 only original buildings
Flats blocks by Southwark Borough Council

Pocock Street
Previously called Wellington Street
Wellington Street Gas Works Perhaps built by South London Gas Co. before 1821 or rented by them in 1824. Used as a holder station until the 1870s. The site was taken over by London School Board, and a second school building is now on it.

Rotary Street
Named for the Hoe printing press works which stretched along it.

Rushworth Street
1-5 Blackfriars Settlement, left Nelson Square in 2001, having been based there for over a century. It began as the Women's University Settlement and was set up by women's colleges in London, Cambridge and Oxford. WUS changed its name to Blackfriars Settlement in 1961.
Merrow and Ripley Houses. London County Council houses of 1896/7. . Noteworthy early. By R. M.Taylor of the L.C.C.'s Housing Branch. Only three storeys high, with quirky Arts and Crafts details to the street. See the angular chimney, gables, and big eaves, and on the inside a small friendly court. Plain central staircases and short access balconies.
Academy Costumes in St Alphege House, 1910 by William Bucknall old church
Convent of the Reparation. In other use. A well detailed house in the style of the early c 18, by Walter Tapper, 1911-12.
Chapel behind, in simple Renaissance style, with a pedimented centre to King’s Bench Street
Southwark Bridge Road
235 Pocock House part of University of the South Bank

Short Street,
St Andrew with St Thomas. 1960 by David Nye & Partners. replacement for two churches by Teulon damaged in the war. Gone

St Georges Road
St.Jude Now closed. 1897-9 by W. J. H. Leverton, replacing the Philanthropic Society's Chapel. Simple red brick, Early English. Used as a community centre.
63-83 1794
118 Notre Dame Roman Catholic Girls School
Charlotte Sharman Primary School
Prince of Wales Pub
St.George’s Buildings
Salvation Army Community Church

St.George's Circus
It had been St George's Fields, where Gerard collected wild flowers. It is the earliest of the Southwark major road junctions. Six highways radiate from it. In 19th it was used by lay preachers, for archery practice and no popery riots. The Wilkes and Liberty meetings were held here and the Gordon Rioters assembled here. , Methodist preachers and Lunardi's balloon in 1785. Named after St.George the Martyr church. The route from Blackfriars Bridge to Newington Butts was laid out in 1769 by Robert Mylne, surveyor to the Blackfriars Bridge Committee. In the centre of the Circus, was the obelisk dated 1771 but in 1905 it was moved to the outside of Bethlem Hospital. It is in honour of Mayor Brass Crosby who was put in the tower for doing his duty as a magistrate. It was put back in the Circus in 2000.
Offices. Douglas Mamott Worby & Robinson's offices. 1973-5.

The Cut
The Blackfriars Road end was named Great Charlotte Street – it was a Cut between Blackfriars and Westminster bridges. Also called New Cut at the west end.
66 Young Vic. The idea Dates from the 1960s' ‘spirit of iconoclasm and improvisation’ and it opened in 1970 as a place for younger directors, designers, actors, writers and technicians in productions and at the lowest possible seat prices. Cheap short life theatre. One auditorium with thrust-stage built cheaply with a rough, light-industrial feel. . Refurbished 2007.
Henry Ellwood hat factory to make pith helmets in an Indian design which had been brought back by Lord Napier
36 Anchor & Hope. Comfortable saloons. Handy for the Old and Young Vic theatres.
86 Windmill Tavern. Two-bar pub which gets very busy when the shows at the Old and Young Vic theatres finish.
Southwark College – branch of borough based training college.
Southwark Station. 24th September 1999. Between Waterloo and London Bridge on the Jubilee Line designed by Richard MacCormac and built on a cramped site. The platforms are under the railway viaduct of Waterloo East with is a concourse between them connected at either end. It is effectively a tunnel illuminated by glass and steel "beacons" and faced with stainless steel panels. Stairs go up to a floor in the centre of the tunnel, where escalators go to the concourse above which is has a glass wall, made of 660 pieces of blue glass, designed by Alexander Beleschenko.
Old Vic. It stands where, in the 18th there were open fields full of streams and ponds. Built originally as the Coburg Theatre 1816-18 with a gas works under the stage. It was then notorious for melodrama but the name was changed. Also called Royal Victoria Hall in 1833. In 1880 it was remodelled and taken over by Emma Cons, who turned it into a home for opera and classical plays at popular prices. Her work was continued after 1912 by her niece, Lillian Baylis. She turned it from an alcohol-free music hall into a place for Shakespeare' plays. In 1982 the theatre was relaunched by the Canadian entrepreneur Ed Mirvish. . The sidewall with large blind arches was built as part of the original building by R. Cabanel, 1816. It was remodelled in 1880 by E. Hoole, with a Baroque stucco front and again in 1950 by Douglas Rowntree.

Union Street
Leading east from Blackfriars Road and parallels the railway. West end was once called Charlotte Street
Joseph Wallis 1860s flute business
202-206 Travel Lodge
Railway bridge on spur line built by SER 1878.
204 Union Theatre/ family run theatre in an old paper warehouse.
243 Lord Nelson
225 The Union Jack
164-180 Paxman. Musical instrument maker and sales. Horn Centre
James Ashby “Embassy Tea and Coffee” and “Rose Brand Fine Teas” signs on the building. The Sculpture Gallery

Waterloo Road
12-11 Fire Station. built in 1910. Now a restaurant and bar. L.C.C fire station more staid than earlier Arts and Crafts examples,
131 Waterloo Bar. Was also called Baron's Bar.
157/183 Church Mission Society HQ. Built 1964/6. five storey building with a chapel by Ansell & Bailey. Bold lettering on the band between the two. Due for demolition in 2010 as the Society moves to Oxford.
152 Wellington House. Department of Health in David Grieg offices. Built 1928. by Payne Wyatt, preserved in front of a building of 1979-80. Headquarters and storehouse for David Greig, provision merchants.
81 The Wellington
Living space. designed by Lambeth Council’s Design & Technical Services, run by Lambeth Council Children & Young People's Service as a community social enterprise. two-storey glass rotunda, with a café and UK Online centre, and offices of local community organisations. Incorporates solar power and The roof and terrace can collect 156,600 litres of rainwater a year, The roofs of both the rotunda and first floor are covered with a sedum vegetation blanket, and water storage mineral wool drainage reservoir board.
London Ambulance Headquarters. Grey mosaic By the G.L.C. Architect's Department, c. 1970.
Maudsley Building L.C.C flats early 20th.
Old Vic Workshop, by Lyons Israel & Ellis, 1957, with a frame of shuttered concrete, an early example of brutalism.
Union Jack Club. 1907 like an Edwardian Hotel. For soldiers and sailors as a war memorial for South African and Chinese Wars. Brown brick and bronze glazed towers by Fitzroy Robinson & Partners, 1975- 6. The club accommodation is at the back in a twenty-five-storey tower with continuous oriel windows; the office block facing Waterloo Road has a freestanding upright forming a monumental and overpowering portal.

Waterloo Main Line Station
Opened 11th July 1848 It was first called Waterloo Bridge. It is Britain's largest railway station, with 28 platforms including Waterloo (East) and Waterloo and City. It Opened when the line to Woking was opened and extended on from original LSWR terminus at Vauxhall. Some bomb damage. The present building dates mainly from 1900-1922 and was Opened by Queen Mary because King George had a cold. There are earlier remains including the 1885 roof over the ‘Windsor Lines' 16-21 built 1901-22. The engineer J. W. Jacomb Hood was succeeded by A.W. Stumper. the grand Edwardian façade is by J. R. Scott. The steelwork inside is functional, no arches, no wide spaces. Beneath the station is an extensive system of brick tunnel-vaults and ramps down to the Waterloo and City Railway. Rolling stock can be lifted from this line by a hydraulic hoist north of the station.
memorial - Inside the station is a memorial to Herbert A. Walker, General Manager of the LSWR and its successor, the Southern Railway. under the clock are destination plaques of the counties served by the railway and also stained glass coats of arms on office windows
Victory Arch, which commemorates 585 London and South Western Railway employees killed in World War I. This is the main entrance. Plaques around the arch name the battlefields where the men died and in the centre is the LSWR coat of arms. The company's initials are on the lamps.
Taxi Road – the news cinema bridged it in the 1930s.
news cinema 1934 by Alister MacDonald. the auditorium was actually outside the station perimeter wall while the 'show facade' and foyer were inside. The paybox and entrance were on the station concourse. At the top of the stairs was a 245 seat auditorium. resting on stanchions, two in the station and two outside all of them going not only down to the taxi road but down to the viaduct on which the whole station is built. Due to the small of space, the projection box was on the roof and the projection beam was angled down a chute with a transparent screen at the far end which reflected the image back through a mirror.
Waterloo International Station. 1991 by Nicholas Grimshaw and Partners. It has a long, sinuous roof straddling the platforms engineered by YRM Anthony Hunt Associates. Beneath the platforms are the concourse, ticket hall, customs, shopping, etc. Closed.
Waterloo East footbridge. The footbridge leading to Waterloo East is along the line of an old rail link between the LSWR 'Windsor' lines and the SER Junction station.
Signal Box concrete in the International Modern style of the 1930s
Waterloo East Station 1864. Built by South Eastern Railway as Waterloo Junction station when the line was extended from London Bridge to Charing Cross. In 1935 it was renamed Waterloo, in 1977 renamed Waterloo East
Generator station for Waterloo and City Line. Stone-capped chimney.
Waterloo and city Line. Tube link to the Bank opened by LSWR in 1898 Remained in Southern Railway ownership.
Carriages Hoist, for repair facilities for Waterloo and City line trains. as there is no direct rail connection.
Second world war telephone exchange for the bunker system. This was in one of the arches below the platforms 1 to 8. Entry was from a public passage leading to the Waterloo and City Line station. Inside was a passage with half way along it a weir two or three steps high to keep out floodwaters, an armed guard, and a gas lock built into the supporting brickwork. A second gas lock gave access to the battery room and generator room and an exit door to one of the access roads under the station. workshop, where repairs and construction of switchboards and signal box equipment was carried out. Beyond were the mess room and stores for the strategic stocks of vital spares. a further gas lock provided an emergency exit to the lost property office under Waterloo General Offices. The complex was protected by a concrete slab poured into the crown of the arch.

Webber Street
Called Friar Street in Booth. Features in films 'Elephant Juice’.
26 Stage Door. Very handy for the Old Vie – hence the name. Popular with office workers and theatricals. Extensive one-bar Saloon.
57 Bell. Pleasant locals' pub
61 Colorama. Film studios.
63 photographic film studios
6-8 Waterloo Christian Centre. Part of London City Mission
94 Abbey. bar pub also called General Abercrombie. And now offices
Barons Place, new Housing by the Peabody Trust
Blackfriars foundry
Flats – London .County .Council 1905 by. R. Stark of the Architect's Department, tall blocks with detailed eaves.
Friars Primary School. built 1963. Single storey building with front and rear garden and a 'large' playground
Hope Mission. Now flats.
The Priory, 1893 now flats. Plaque to Bert Hardy, picture post photographer,
Warehouse and bacon stoves were behind the David Grieg shop on Waterloo Road
Waterloo Film Studios with four sound stages make-up areas and green rooms, and post-production facilities.
West Square
1791-4, south side c. 1800-10.

Westminster Bridge Road
100 Perspective building was Century House, matchbox that 1966 -1995, was home to the UK's overseas intelligence agency, or more commonly MI6 now housing and done up a bit.
122 Horse & Groom. Well-decorated, airy, Youngers "free house".
14 Flowers of the Forest. Previously known as the Oxford Arms, the pub was renamed by the landlord when the original Flowers in the Forest closed down in Blackfriars Road. typical Courage wood panelled interior.
199 Florence Nightingale. Large open-plan rotunda style bar on a split level. Designed for the office trade, Closed.
45Peabody Housing head office
61 Morley College founded in 1885. It developed out of the penny lectures at Emma Cons's Old Vic. The present site is 1924 with buildings by Maufe of the 1930s, and t 1958 by Brandon-Jones, Ashton & Broadbent. Wrapped around two sides of these is John Winter's additions of 1973-5.
Canterbury music hall beside Charles Morton’s pub supposed to be first music hall. Large Canterbury Music Hall converted to a cinema in 1927. It was bombed in 1942, and its site is now covered by the Eurostar terminal.
133-135 Crown and cushion
Lambeth North Station. 1905. Between Waterloo and Elephant and Castle on the Bakerloo Line. Baker Street and Waterloo Railway from Baker Street to Kennington Road. 10th March. Opened as Kennington Road as the temporary terminus before Elephant and Castle was opened. Station designed by Leslie Green 1906 Name changed to ‘Westminster Bridge Road’. 1917 Name changed to ‘Lambeth (North)’. Changed to Lambeth North in 1928. Very little original work left and much modernisation in the early 1990s including painting of the façade. Ticket Hall was changed when part of the building was used as a staff training school in the 1930s and some evidence of this remains. Still some Edwardian feel to it. Plaque to ownership of the site by Maudslay. Iron railings and mosaic flooring are original and much tiling in the corridors has been replaced to match the originals.
Methodist chapel. China Terrace 1808. The Lambeth Mission church is shared by St. Mary's Anglican parish. It is on the site of the China Terrace Chapel which replaced Mr. John Edwards' school chapel on Westminster Bridge Road, where Wesley had preached on several occasions.
28 Royal Freemasons School for Girls. A famous building here until 1852 when it moved to Wandsworth
St Paul demolished since 1950, by W. Rogers, 1857.
The chandlery Office centre consisting of three buildings set in a courtyard within the site of Melina Place.
The Morley gallery. opened in 1968 in an old pub adjacent. It has a painting and drawing studio and a print studio on the first, second and third floors.
172 Walrus. Social club
Westminster bridge house. Built for the London Necropolis railway as a station for funeral trains to serve their Brookwood Cemetery. opened in 1854. Three-carriage trains took coffins and mourners from the station to the cemetery.In 1941 the station was bombed and was never re-opened. Now flats
Maudslay Son and Field Works. Henry Maudslay took on the site north of Baylis Road in 1820. The firm became Henry Maudslay & Co, which later Maudslay, Field & Co, when he took Joshua Field as his partner, and subsequently Maudslay, Sons & Field which it remained as successive sons and grandsons took over. He developed machinery and standardised screws and other parts, and constantly made use of the micrometer. He supplied to other engineering establishments lathes, planning, slotting and drilling machines and also developed steam powered marine engines. He fostered tgalent among a generation of British mechanical engineers. Two of his sons became partners in the business, and his great-grandson, Reginald Walter Maudslay was one of the pioneers of the British motor industry, established the Standard Motor Co at Coventry in 1903.