North London Railway - Haggerston

(For reasons of space – these very intensive inner city squares will be divided into quarters – the south east quarter for this square.)

North London Railway
The North London Railway continues northwards

Post to the south Bethnal Green Boundary Estate
Post to the north Haggerston

Cremer Street
The road was in the past Thomas Street and then Harwar Street after Harwar Almshouses. It is said to have been full of pretty cottages
Harwar Almshouses. These stood on the corner with Kingsland Road and were in both roads. They were built in 1710 as part of a bequest from Samuel Harwar funded by income from land, mainly in Kent and administered by the Drapers Company. They were demolished as being beyond modernising, pensions were provided with the remaining income and shops and a factory built on the Kingsland Road.
1-13 17-25 large 1960’s industrial building on four floors, on two adjoining sites, converted to provide 90 studios,
Arch 402 Gallery. This opened in 2010 and showcases up-coming artists. It is in a railway arch next to Hoxton station, and includes an outside space
37 Cremer Business Centre
Peabody flats on the site of a former multi-storey car pack
32 Marquis of Lansdowne. Closed in 2000 and derelict –may have been demolished.

Dawson Street
Nursery School which had been part of Scawfell Street School. The site is now modern flats

Dunloe Street
Mother Kate Homes. In 1866, three nursing sisters from the Anglican Society of St Margaret, East Grinstead moved here to come here to help the poor and cholera victims. The sisters built St Saviour’s Priory in 1890 naming it the Mother Kate Homes, after a former nun. It was used in the Second World War as an air raid shelter. In 1976, the convent was extended with a block, Designed by Laurence King. It is now an Anglican community of ordained and lay women, running retreats workshops
St.Chad. Built by the Haggerston Churches Scheme in 1867-9 by Stoke Newington based  James Brooks, the architect of several forceful churches built for the, but Now the only one of them in use by the Church of England.  It is a tall, compact building of red brick, in austere Early Gothic. It has a timber bell-turret above the crossing, and no tower.
Vicarage, also by Brooks, of 1873-4 in red brick with a circular turret.
Low rise housing built -by-housing associations in the 1990s
Dunloe Street Depot. This London & North Western Railway Depot was in use 1893-1968. Dunloe Street Signal Box. It was on the viaduct and served a small goods yard belonging to the London & North Western Railway, also at viaduct level but served as a section splitter on this route. Access from ground level was via a circular iron staircase. Although is survived longer than most such boxes Its importance fell as train service were reduced and it was no longer used in the early 1970s. In 1976, the signal arms were removed and the levers bolted it was however retained in case a need arose. The line closed in 1986

Geffrye Street
Hoxton Station. This station was opened to the public in 2010, with services between running Dalston and New Cross soon after extended to Croydon or ‘Crystal Palace. In 1993 London Underground had originally proposed the station on a line from Whitechapel to Dalston.  It is sited on the tracks which lead to the Dunloe Street Depot. It is a two-platform station with the ticket office and entrance under the viaduct. Access to the platforms is via a lift and stairs
372 Art gallery in arches under the railway
385 bakery in arches under the railway
397 – 400 café, bar in the railway arches below Hoxton station.
War Memorial. This memorial was originally erected in 1921 at Broad Street Station. When Broad Street was demolished it was moved to Richmond Station car park. It was erected here in Hoxton, with a rededication ceremony in 2010. Hoxton is on the lines that used to run into Broad Street and so is a more appropriate location than Richmond. The inscription says ‘In memory of North London Railwaymen who fell in the Great War, 1914 - 1919.’ the other three sides carry a list of 65 names.

Hackney Road
Several stretches of 19th terraces some with shop fronts built over gardens.
137 Flying Scud. This was on the corner of Cremer Street but now demolished. It was a 1860s public house with rooms above. The front was overlaid with white tiles probably from.1910 when what had been a beer house was re-modelled for Truman, Hanbury and Buxton. The Flying Scud was a sailing-ship of the 1850’s and the name of a race horse of the 1870s. In 1901, there was a West End hit drama called “The Flying Scud,” featuring a live horse on stage.
155 Chip shop, once the Manchester Arms pub.
Fellows Court.  Two tower blocks from a rebuilding Commissioned by Shoreditch Borough Council in 1963.
193 The British Lion Pub. This has a single-storey, Edwardian bar extension on a 19th terraced house. It has its shop front with plate-glass windows and glazed tiles
211 Odeon cinema, this was the 124th Odeon opened in 1938 designed Andrew Mather, in Art Deco style, stream-lined design with a smooth elevation to the road faced in white tiles. It closed as a cinema in 1961, and was converted into a Top Rank Bingo Hall – the first such conversion
162 Chapelgate. Housing in a converted church. In 1797 the Middlesex chapel was built here, described as an ‘independent meeting house’ (marked merely as M on the Horwood plan) and many important preachers spoke there on ethical and religious issues of the day.  In 1888 it was reorganised as the Hackney Road branch of the Wesleyan Missionary society.
The Strangest Week – this was alongside Diss Street by graffiti artist Ben Seine. Since removed.

Horatio Street
Horatio House, Built in 1936 and part of the Peabody Nags Head Estate. It has balconies stacked on iron columns. Each block on the estate had dated rainwater hoppers decorated with horse heads.

Kent Street
St.Mary’s Community Hall

Ormsby Street
Randall Cremer Primary School. Very plain school built 1875.called after Randall Cremer, MP for the area in the 1880s
Wall down the west side – above this were the Dunloe Street Depot sidings.

Pearson Street
Apples and Pears. Adventure playground founded in the 1980s
St.Mary's Community Garden. This is named after St Mary's Church which was nearby but destroyed by bombing in the Second World War. Where the garden is now was terraced housing, but it was replaced after the Second World War with pre-fabs, themselves demolished in the 1970s. An old street lamp remains within the garden. In the 1990s local residents agreed with the GLC to establish a community garden here. From .1997 -l 2003, it was run by Thrive as a project for people with mental health issues and various disabilities. In 2003 it was renamed St Mary's Secret Garden and is now run as a community garden.
24 Rankin’s Glass. This firm dates to the 1880s but also include Ide’s who dated from the 1830s.  They make specially toughened glass and moved to Shoreditch having been bombed out of Farringdon Road in the 1940s. They are in the space under the old Dunloe Street Rail Depot.

Queensbridge Road
Once called Great Cambridge  Street
St Saviour's Priory.  This is one of the autonomous Houses of the Society of St Margaret founded by John Mason Neale. The priory was built in the 19th and reconstructed in the 1970s. This is an Anglican nursing order that came here in the mid-19th.  Their very large building is available for retreats, etc.   Their church is to the east of this square and is now an art gallery.
Haggerston Park. The park was developed in two phases - the old gas works was in the northern half of the site and became a public park in the late 1950s and the southern half of the park was developed in the 1980s. In 1958 The London County Council began work to clear the old gas works site and turn it into a park. At first this was just the area within the gas works walls. The walled garden was laid out out in Arts and Crafts style. Further expansion in the 1960s  -80s led to the purchase of the remainder of the existing park site south of Edith Street on land previously taken up with housing.  Other developments took place to the east. The layout is thought to have been modelled on a cruise liner and is very much in the Festival of Britain style. The 'walled garden' area of the park is mainly laid out as a lawn with two paths running north to south. The main features include a kiosk with attached pergola supported by brick piers, a large sundial sculpture with stepping stones
Gas works. This was the third works of the Imperial Gas Company - a large early speculative partly fraudulent gas company. The site was taken on a 60 year lease from Rhodes, the north London builders and brickmakers. There was a chapel on the site, which had to be demolished, and a large pond at the southern end. The works was built by George Holsworthy Palmer, eventually sacked in 1823. The works continued in use until 1954 although it has been said to be out of action through bombing since the early 1940s. Its longevity was attributed to its good position for coke sales - despite its smallness, its old-fashioned equipment and lack of a rail connection.  The great brick wall of the works still exists around the site.
Canal inlet. In February 1824, a stretch of canal was opened to the ‘acclamation of the proprietors’ as ‘Haggerston Basin’ from the Regent’s Canal, into the gas works. This Basin formed the western boundary of the works and, although long filled in, can be traced in the park where it is known as Canal Bed. This canal inlet became increasingly important since no railway ever ran near enough to the works to effect a junction for coal deliveries. In the park now it is a sunken linear lawn.
Sebright Childen's Centre
149 The Acorn Pub

Scawfell Street
Scawfell Street School. 19th school used as a secondary school and later replaced with Haggerston School and demolished.

Thurtle Road
Was Brunswick Road
St. Mary Church built in 1826 by Nash.  It was bombed and demolished in 1951.

Weymouth Terrace
Haggerston Girls School.   A girls' secondary school by Erno Goldfinger, 1962-7, and his only secondary school for the London County Council. It has a reinforced concrete frame and is made up of with three linked blocks: a central teaching spine with a library; an entrance block to the assembly hall and music rooms; and staff accommodation and gym - even the rooftop water tanks are arranged with care. There is also a caretaker’s house
Kate Greenaway Building. This was the Kate Greenaway Library designed in 1962. A colourful little building with orange mosaic-clad columns and tile panels above.  It is now a community centre with a computer training centre and AJRAF Resource Centre (Albert Joyle Relief Agency Foundation). This is roughly on the site of Brunswick Square and the Shoreditch Almshouses

Acorn Archive. Web site
Aldous. London’s Villages.
Arch 42. Web site
Cinema Treasures Web site
Clarke. Hackney,
Clunn. The Face of London
Darke. The Monument Guide
Dodds. London Then,
Field. London Place Names
GLIAS Newsletter
Hackney Society Newsletter
Hoxton Station. Wikipedia Web site
London Borough of Hackney. Web site
London Encyclopaedia
London Gardens On Line. Web site
London Railway Record
London Remembers. Web site
Lost Pubs. Web site
Lucas. London
Mary’s gas books. Web site
Miele. Hoxton
Mitchell and Smith. North London Line.
O’Connor. Forgotten Stations
Pevsner and Cherry.  London North
Randall Cremer School. Web site
Robins. North London Railway
Robinson. Lost Hackney
Signal Box. Web site
Stewart. Gasworks of the North Thames Division
St.Mary’s Secret Green. Web site
Summerson, Georgian London
Walford. Highgate and Hampstead to the Lea
Willatts. Streets of Islingt


diamond geezer said…
I'm delighted to say that The Marquis of Lansdowne pub has avoided demolition, thus far, despite major plans by the Geffrye Museum nextdoor which would have seen it knocked down.

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