The Court, 15 houses1902 slice of Hampstead Garden Suburb by H. Thackeray Turner.
Hambledon UDC Offices 20th . by Coussmaker & Armstrong, 1938
Caleb Lovejoy Almshouses. Tudor 1840.
Westbury House 1790.
CEGB 1960 Big T-shaped offices by Braddock & Martin-Smith.
Facing west, you can see why Guildford grew up here. Pewley Hill, and the Mount - the hill which continues west as the Hog's Back — form part of the North Downs. This high chalk escarpment cuts Surrey in half, pierced at Dorking by the Mole and at Guildford by the Wey which flows north to join the Thames. The Normans built a castle to overawe and dominate the town.
The Castle mound. made from chalk from the deep ditch cut into the eastern side of the hill. This mound or 'motte' was the central refuge for the castle's garrison, where they would retreat if an enemy broke through the outer defences surrounding the 'bailey', the enclosed area to the south and east of the mound. It is likely that the motte was at first crowned by a small wooden tower, encircled by a wooden palisade which was later replaced by a chalk wall. Fragments of this wall can be seen on the southern crest of the mound.
Castle. Built around 1125, it had a tower-keep mostly of local Bargate stone. Originally, the only entrance was through a narrow doorway at first floor level, reached by a flimsy wooden stair which could be destroyed by those who barricaded themselves in. Alfred's bodyguard massacre, 1216. It was captured by Dauphin Louis. In the medieval period, Guildford Castle became less important as a fortress and more important as a palace where King John spent a lot of time, as did his son Henry III. Both Henry and Edward I made it into a luxurious royal residence and a lot of royal business was transacted here. Later it became disused and derelict.
Chestnuts house with the blue door. This was rented from 1868 by Charles Lutwidge Dodgson, 'Lewis Carroll'. His six unmarried sisters lived here. Dodgson frequently came on holiday and sometimes preaching at St. Mary's. He died of influenza here early in 1898. His grave is in the Mount Cemetery Castle Grounds: gas lamp standard. Fluted stone Doric pillar 1830.
Mills printers. front by T.J. Capp of Guildford 1908.
Cottagey at first and then entirely early c19
Allen House grounds
46 Spread Eagle
St Joseph RC church 1881
Intricate piecemeal early 19th speculation
Friary Brewery is a complex informal industrial jumble of c.1860 with a big brick tower.
Old Corn Exchange Archway. This was built in 1819 to house the corn market, but became disused at the turn of the century. It was converted to other uses, but in the mid 1930s in order to allow Tunsgate to take motor traffic the central columns were moved apart and the rear wall built as an archway, allowing motor cars to pass through.
Archbishop Abbott's Hospital, ,George Abbot was born in 1562, the son of a Guildford cloth worker. He became a bishop, and then Archbishop of Canterbury. He built a 'hospital' - an old people's home or almshouse. completed in 1622 for 12 brethren and 8 sisters. Complete original furnishings. The Duke of Monmouth was kept in the gatehouse after Sedgemoor. . Summer house in the quadrangle.
Holy Trinity Church, dates from the 1760s. The mediaeval church unfortunately demolished. George Abbot's tomb. The pillars supporting the canopy stand on stone piles of books. Vestry is the original western chantry. Monuments in the porch. Memorial to speaker Onslow. .
Churchyard. Iron gates
Friary Shopping Centre
Friary was Dominican. Dissolved in 1538.
Opposite Friary Meux Brewery. Demolished. Informal industrial jumble.
Archway led to Georgian terraces now demolished.
Leat which supplied the Town Mill, already there when work began on making the Godalming Navigation. This feature is part of the system for feeding water power to the Town Mill. Its overflow provides a local 'white-water' training area for canoeists.
Tumbling bay to divert surplus water, already there when work began on making the Godalming Navigation.
Horse bridge. once stood at the northern end of the cut crossing the backwater to Millmead.
Millmead Lock is the start of the Wey South Path which follows the course of the Godalming Navigation, the Wey & Arun Canal and the Arun Navigation to Amberley in Sussex.
Guildford Boat House
Guildford had a population of about 700 at Domesday and had a mint. The town seems to be a Saxon planned town with an older area around St.Mary’s church. Became prosperous in the 13th and 14th and as the main market town in its area and a royal residence. The town is a parallelogram and shows evidence of Saxon or early medieval planning. It was surrounded by a town ditch.
Central Hall/Plaza Guildford Plaza: October 1949. This 500-seater was the third and last Odeon in the town, after the Playhouse and Odeon.
Cinema/ Astor/Studio/Cannon/ Flicks
Guildford Playhouse: October 1949. One of a small number of British cinemas reached through an arcade. restaurant. This was a County/Odeon property grouped with the Gaumonts.
Live and Let Live
The only main street in medieval Guildford. It was intersected by a series of side turnings called ‘gates’. It is on a convex hill, and there are several minor changes of level and slope.
25 –29 was Nuthall's restaurant with Jacobean interior
26 was the Crown Inn, became a bank 18th
29 18th bank. Lloyds Bank was Guildford Old Bank. Established in 1765. The two downhill bays are facsimile of 1899. It still keeps original ground-floor front
44 Endsleigh Insurance. Brick-lined pit found in a cupboard during building work. Was not excavated
56 W.H.Smith. was the post office 17th with bow window. Large chalk block cellar found during building work
82 last shop before the Town Bridge
was a business concerned with the river. The earliest known occupier was James
Spark jnr who sold fishing tackle, hired out boats and made ginger
beer in 1839. Mr T Denty took over
in 1866 and he was followed in 1878 by Mr Martin who also ran a bakery.
93-95 Lakeland. Stone steps lead to a brick-vaulted cellar. Evidence of a bricked up passage connecting to the nearby Angel Hotel
115 vaulted undercrofts. Late 13th .
143 Crabtree and Evelyn. Section of a 12th-13th century undercroft revealed during alterations.
155 Child House. 1660, this was built as the house of John Child, a lawyer. It became a public art gallery in 1957,
165 Somerset House, 18th residence of the Duke.
237-239 Pizza Express. Traces of cellars found which were mostly destroyed by bank vaults.
Angel Hotel. The Angel is the sole survivor of Guildford's half dozen coaching inns, which flourished after the growth of Portsmouth as a dockyard -Being halfway between Portsmouth and London, Guildford was a natural stopping point for travellers. the facade is in the Regency style, but under the archway is 17th timber-framing. the inn yard, paved with granite setts, continues down to North Street. This is a characteristic Guildford 'gate' - an alleyway or lane running from the High Street the length of the property to the street behind. Pre 1527 and 1820 facade. claimed to be HQ of Automobile Club. There is one wooden window of c.1620 in the yard entry. Medieval Undercroft may have been decorated with fascias. Underground is a 13th vaulted basement, probably a wine store Baker's Blue Coat School
Guildhall. Town Hall with projecting clock. Here the 'Mayor and Approved Men' would meet to regulate the commercial and legal life of the town. The hall is Elizabethan, but the frontage, with its bell turret and balcony with a council chamber behind - and of course the famous clock by John Aylward of London, probably 1683, when facade was added. Royal Arms. Plaster frieze of the human temperaments.
Harvey's, 19th design. Behind this running towards North Street is also Harvey’s a five-storey shop by G. A. Jellicoe and Partners, 1957, On the fifth floor a roof garden in the Swedish-style garden design.
Henrietta House. 1966. A straightforward four-storey block by D. B. & S. Coom 1966-8. Highgate House. 19th with 12ft doorway.
Jeffrey & Son, shop, gold leaf under glass
Woolworth’s. The front was designed by Thomas Sharp. Site of Lion Hotel, 19th demolished 1957. Old lion included in the shop front.
Multi Storey car park. By Courtaulds Technical Services 1962-3
Municipal Offices. 1931 plus white mosaic block of 1962. More Neo-Georgian buildings by T. R. Clemence, 1931
Norfolk House. 1959 by Scott, Brownrigg of Turner, .
Red Lion also gone
Royal Grammar School. This was not founded by King Edward VI: he merely re-endowed a foundation by Robert Beckenham, a London merchant, at the beginning of the 16th century. Building on this site was begun in 1557 and completed 30 years later. Library has 80 chained books. Names of lots of distinguished old boys carved in the dining room. Founded 1509. And charter 1553. Arms of Edward VI. The school has in its time produced several bishops, Lord Mayors of London, and an Archbishop of Canterbury - George Abbot himself.
New Grammar School buildings set back from the street replaced Allen House also used by the school. This was 17th, remodelled 1770,
Sainsbury's. by P. H. Adams, 1905. replaced 1961-3 by a tall all-brown facade architects are Scott, Brownrigg & Turner.
Trinity Churchyard. Shut off from the High Street. a tiny domestic square with brick and plaster buildings, especially effective because the long brick sides of the church shut off the High Street completely.
White Horse Hotel with extension at the back. 19th Hotel.
White Lion, The name is a reference to the badge of Edward IV. gone
Rebuilt with shops with uniform boxed-out tile-hung upper floors by Central Of Provincial Properties, 1967-9.
Effective piece of industrial architecture. Weatherboarded workshop
Surrey Advertiser 1936 by Duncan Scott
a road and a car park both creations of the 1960s, part of a scheme to relieve traffic congestion in Guildford.
Town Mill. Large brick building. There have been mills on this site, probably since Saxon times, grinding flour and fulling cloth in mediaeval and Tudor times when the wool trade brought prosperity to the town. The building you see today was mostly built in 1770, being extended at the west end in the 1850s. This extension was built in an exact imitation of the Georgian style and it is only on close examination that you can see the join in the brickwork between the two parts. The mill ceased to grind in 1894, when the Corporation took it over as a waterworks. When the nearby Yvonne Arnaud Theatre was opened in the middle of the 1960s, the disused mill building was let as scenery workshops. It is now intended that it should become a small studio theatre. The Date plaque is the date on the council bought it. An impressive big mill of c.1760 with Victorian additions. Brick, seven bays three storeys, plus a bulky hipped roof.
Site of Town Bridge, where the Golden Ford was. A stone bridge was built around 1200, which lasted until 1900 when a flood destroyed it The Central arch enlarged by Smeaton in 1760. A cast-steel bridge was erected. This became so badly corroded it was demolished in 1983. The first major obstacle to the creation of the Godalming Navigation was the medieval bridge, still intact in 1760. Its arches were too small and the river too shallow to allow large barges to pass through. In 1900 timber floated out of the yard and piled up against the bridge and the bridge was badly damaged. the County Council paid for the repair work and took responsibility for the bridge thereafter. This cast iron bridge served until 1985 when it was replaced with a steel and concrete structure. Some parts of the earlier bridge were re-used so that it appears much the same. Currently for pedestrian use only..
John Moon's timber yard.
Ford giving an alternative crossing for horse-drawn carts. Dredge this to let barges pass upstream and you no longer have a ford
Yvonne Arnaud Theatre. On the site of Williams and Filmer's Guildford Foundry. Attractively sited.
St Nicholas Church. Third on site in 150 years. Medieval church replaced in 1836 and 1885. Loseley chapel survives from the original church – humble medieval. Rest is Teulon – but not too much ‘beastliness’. Monuments etc. Dr. Monsell, the rector and author of 'Fight the Good Fight' instigated the new church. Tragically he died from an accident during the building work
Bridge until 1909, no way across the river.. A Mr Angell put forward the idea of making a footbridge upstream of the Jolly Farmer Inn. He and his friends raised funds, built a handsome oak bridge, and presented it to the town. This bridge has gone, replaced in 1933 by a concrete one of slim design but perhaps not quite so appropriate to the setting as the old bridge.
First lock on Godalming Navigation. Flood in 1968 and sluice gates control floods to water meadows. Electricity Works. Shell of public station of 1913
Guildford Iron Foundry. Now site ot Yvonne Arnaud Theatre. set up in 1794 by E Filmer and a partner and made a wide range of iron castings. As Filmer & Mason from 1854 the works produced, among other items, cast-iron grave markers. Many are still to be seen in cemeteries and churchyards . The buildings were demolished in 1941.
Jolly Farmer Inn. Hiring out boats here At the end of the 19th century. the pub, was then a plain, grey building with suitable access to the river. The earliest known boating business here was run by the brothers Charles and Alfred Leroy. Born in Belgium they took over as licensees of the Jolly Farmer in 1893 and put up the first of their boat-houses between the river and the pub. Sharing the site at that time was The Guildford Swimming and Life-Saving Society. In 1913 the Jolly Farmer was re-built and changed little since. In 1919 there was a new landlord, Mr W K Crane.
Allen's Boat-house and Tea Rooms was established in 1912 a few yards downstream of the Jolly Farmer with an elegant, two-storey building. Now a private house. Closed in 1940s.. At the end of the war Mr Cordery bought the moribund for his sons and it operated from a site a little upstream from the original boat-house but in 1961 the land was acquired by Guildford Corporation and became part of Millbrook car park.
Leroy's Boat-house and Tea Gardens. Built by Charles Leroy. now a private house.
Leroys Ltd. occupied Harry How's old site near Onslow Bridge after 1915 until 1942. In 1943 it was taken over by Captain Charlie Hirst who ran it for nearly 20 years. He had a 30-passenger launch built, named Pilgrim, and ran regular river trips. The vessel was almost silent, being electrically propelled and powered by a set of rechargeable batteries.
Guildford Boat House. In 1961 Captain Hirst retired, selling out to Leslie and Marion Smailes. They re-located downstream to the site of the Guildford Boat-house – and the present building with living accommodation above, was erected. They retired in 1974 and the business was transferred to the Chase and Hall families. The trip boat is named Harry Stevens in memory of the man who spent a lifetime looking after the waterway. The restaurant boat was named Alfred Leroy
an untidy tangle of bus station and traffic islands. Millmead goes along the river bank with pleasant industrial buildings and a view of the Quarry Street backs,
Alice, her sister and the White Rabbit in bronze, a reminder that the creator of Alice in Wonderland, Lewis Carroll, spent much of his time at his house in Guildford.
Plummer’s self-important bulk of by G. Baines & Syborn, 1963-7 stretches from the bridge along the side of the river. The building is out of scale with its surroundings, and the lifeless river-walk beside it is no compensation.
riverside square tiny cottagey
Millmead House c.1700. Guildford R.D.C. offices, altered and added to. The original part is four bays wide, central first-floor window with an architectural surround. Later c18 attic and porch, multiple c20 alterations and additions. The back is less altered. It has one window with delightful scrolled and broken pediment above it not attached to any aedicule frame, just floating, in between the urn, and under it a tiny inset of grey brick, a very individual touch, unlike any of the other Guildford houses.
Bus station. Rebuilt on original site.
The most notable thing in the street is the superb view of the whole length of High Street and the town centre. Harvey's store and the car park on look enormous, and Holy Trinity tower takes its place as the finial to the upward view, which it never does in
4, of the late 17th with simple recessed patterns in the brickwork, then
Mount House 1730 bulky
33 pre-Victorian cottages further up on the other side working-class c19, but the total effect spoilt by piecemeal slum clearance without rebuilding.
Anglo Saxon Cemetery.
Charles Dodgson grave.
Gothic Booker's Folly. Tower also used for electrical experiments.
Had been North Town Ditch. Use by cattle market. Site of cockpit. Rebuilt since 1960. Parallel to High Street with remarkably little in it. It was originally the back lane of the single-street town, and was not fully built up until c.1800. Since 1960 it has been almost entirely rebuilt. There is still little worth individual mention. The best thing is the set of parallel pedestrian alleys running between it and High Street.
Cloth Hall, brick manufacturer 1629 by George Abbot who became Archbishop of Canterbury, subsidised linen weaving in the town
Paupers House, 1656 and School 1856. Tower added shop
Abbots School. Offices. 19th tower. Now offices. Towards the street but a long, grim, three-storey range running back from it in exactly the same style as the Hospital mullioned windows etc. Built in 1619, but of no visual importance.
Public library by Highet & Phillips, 1959-625 yellow brick, with a weak convex facade with a large window
Maples Store. Very large building by Scott, Brownrigg & Turner, 1963-4. Two and three storeys, the upper floors projecting, with thin black mullions and black spandrels. The building follows the curve of the street uphill and ends with a sleek, brash, rounded end at the comer of Chertsey Street.
There was a neo-Norman range of varying height and degree of projection, two to three storeys, probably of c.1840. An archway inscribed Salvam Domine Pac Victoriam led to an eight-house terrace of completely plain Late Georgian three-storey brick, now demolished.
77 North Street, was a tiny Artisan brick building of 1630, once an outbuilding of some sort to the hospital, with one curly shaped gable at the end and three bays of pilasters above rusticated blind arches along the side. It was demolished in 1960.
Rodborough Buildings. Oldest car factory 1901 Dennis. Sold 1919 to Rodboro Boot and Shoe Co. Probably first multi storey car factory. Buildings. Printing works
16th cottages demolished 1957
16 Plough. Restful haven, looking out through quaint diamond-paned windows on to Guildford's busy one-way system. A small interior has just four tables and a brick-built island feature at which customers can stand or sit on bar stools to chat
Runs towards Godalming from the extreme end of the High Street. The beginning has now lost its earlier character completely.
Front of the C.E.G.B. offices
Two plain eleven storey blocks of flats higher up, by Scott, Brownrigg & Turner 1963-4.
Wycliffe Buildings. 1894 remarkable stone built flats. Voysey tricks. H. Thackeray Turner. Three storeys, on a wedge-shaped site with a steep slope down from the apex at the end. This has a tower: the side form splendid compositions of gables and functionally placed windows, without any period detail, but using Voysey's trick of elegant scrolled drainpipe supports. This is the style often used in LCC's housing of c.1900, but better done and earlier than the famous Millbank Estate. It is up to the best English work of the nineties. Some of the interior detail just as remarkable - e.g. the stair handrail to No 7-9, with the writhing Art Nouveau spirit applied functional not merely as a decorative trick.
Condor Court. Contemptible. In horrid contrast thirties Neo-Georgian.
22 called Swiss Cottage in fact a pretty Swiss chalet - tile-hung! Of c.1840, with curved brass ingeniously adapted to a steep site high above the road.
A pair of bulky mid-Georgian houses with bow windows
2-4 Mount Pleasant several c. 19 pairs of speculative Grecian villas,
61-71, each sharing a four-column colonnade.
73-75 is another with battlemented recessed one-bay wings and Gothick windows.
79 is plain, three bays with an Ionic porch, but on the garden side four giant pilasters with bold Ionic cap
1-4 Rectory Place. Norman Shaw. Two identical pairs of c.1880. They are of his period, to use a cliché - i.e. in his pretty informal tile- style. Three storeys, with the two upper floors overhang and tile-hung, two single-bay gables balance double bay. Seen together in their careful prettiness, they seem to be just a gimmick for domestic compared with Wycliffe Buildings with its carefully thought out use of the site.
Congregational Church. 1965
97 Hitherbury House. Exactly the same style, but bigger and more composed; it still looks like what Gordon Cullen has called an alibi for design
This street has many interesting old buildings. Some are Georgian, and others are Tudor timber-framed houses with Georgian facades. The buildings on either side are timbered, and have the projecting first-floor 'jetty' so characteristic of Tudor town houses. A plaster frontage added, and marked to imitate stonework, to bring them up to date in the 18th century.
58 shop. Cellar containing large chalk block walls noted.
Alfred the Great residence, probably in Quarry Street
Castle arch. Probably built in 1256 by John of Gloucester, Henry Ill's master mason. The grooves for the portcullis can still be seen.
Hall- and-cross wings house takes its name from the Castle Arch. It was built in about 1630 by the Guildford merchant Francis Carter. Twenty years previously he had bought the castle grounds from King James I. Carter at first attempted to live in the keep, which had been used as a prison but found the massive tower too uncomfortable and inconvenient. He therefore built a new mansion at Castle Arch, using the stonework of the northern gate tower as an end wall. The house has subsequently passed through several hands and in 1898 it became the headquarters of the Surrey Archaeological Society and the town's museum.
Gate where the castle wall met the street, caves, which were probably chalk quarries, stone for St.Paul's
Millbrook House. Plastered front. Tudor
21 fake Dutch gable end. With plastered front gables to the road.
49 Castle House. c. 1740 big, very plain Palladian house of three bays with a hefty doorcase,
Guildford Museum. HQ of the Surrey Archaeological Society. 1900 enlarged picturesque cottage. Prettiest cottage ensemble in Guildford. part single-storey by Ralph Nevill, unhappy mock-Jacobean gables, but mainly a very picturesque enlarged cottage partly built into the outbuildings and next to the castle entrance. The front has a tile-hung gable above stone-built bow window and another half-timbered gable, dated 1672. The front inside the archway has two gabled and tile-hunt wings.
St Mary Church. The oldest building in Guildford - or to be accurate, the tower of St Mary's, below the line of the parapet, is Saxon. The tower, with the vertical strips characteristic of Saxon stone work, dates from perhaps the year 1050, but stands on the site, of an earlier wooden church. After the Conquest the church began to be extended all around the tower and by the middle of the 13th century looked very much as it does today. Murals, 13th frescoes. Restored 1873. Slope of the ground makes a difference to the layout. Big rise in floor level inside. Woodwork, monuments. Stained glass.
Lots of Georgian and Tudor houses, can see backs from Rosemary Alley
6 17th house with crude pargetting no figures, only geometrical patterns: a rarity in Surrey, but probably through destruction of most of the other local examples
Queen Elizabeth Park
Women's Royal Army Corps Museum
Path from Castle Arch to steps leading old Quarry area named after tenter frame racks. Blocked entrances to caverns from which clunch stone was mined for building. Chalk for lime burning too
A series of steps, giving first-rate picturesque views of backs of the Quarry Street houses. it was originally used as an open sewer running down to the river
Bridge House. 1959 admirably unaffected. By Scott, Brownrigg & Turner, a seven-storey office block. Alternate bands of glass and pink granite chippings, no decoration except ft 'BRIDGE HOUSE' in bold letters. A very good example of knowing when to stop.
2, a skittish flint and stock-brick front with all the windows ogee-headed.
A massive, deep portico of two pairs of Tuscan columns and pediment. Built as the Corn Exchange by Henry Garling, 1818, and in 1935 shorn of the building behind and made into a car park entrance - both a successful case of sympathetic re-use instead of demolition and the source of a queer, unintended Osterley-like effect in its own right. As so often happens with early c19 public buildings, the style is much more vigorous than if it had been done by one of the big names. The portico is Tuscan, not Greek Doric.
Walnut Tree Close
An odd area that was laid out expensive houses c. 1900 and still has open country immediately beyond.
Monks Path. Demure neo Georgian by Baillie Scott. Fundamentally timid
Garden Court fundamentally timid by Baillie Scott
Undershaw with pergola built in 1910 in the Tudor style with a sophisticated entry from the street via a pergola running between low-roofed wings in the Lutyens way. Fundamentally timid by Baillie Scott
Warehouses on the Banks of the Wey
1856 Joseph Billings London Printing Works and let as warehouses in 1962. Bookbindery is now Bishop's Move. Until 1913 bonded warehouse of Friary Meux
Area of Barrack Field
One of the first to be canalised 1690s. Ext to Godalming Navigation 1762. . Richard Weston 1653 to link Guildford to the Thames. Dutch pattern.
Crane & treadmill, black, weather-boarded building which houses the Treadwheel Crane. This stood on-the Town Wharf and was dismantled and re-erected when the embankment was constructed in about 1970. The River Wey was one of the first rivers in England to be canalised, in the 1650s. The Wey Navigation brought a flush of prosperity to Guildford and the waterway was extended as the Godalming Navigation in 1762. The Treadwheel Crane was used to load and unload the barges moored at the wharf, the cargo frequently being wheat. 17th century, with chain and hook. Treadmill 18' diameter in a timber building. Capable of lifting up to a 3-ton load which it last did in 1908 when handling concrete building piles. Rare pre-c19 industrial survival. Small, weatherboarded and tile building, half open for wagons to drive in, half enclosed and containing an enormous tread wheel, 15 ft in diameter, geared to a crane on the waterfront. Probably c18, and in fairly good condition.
Angle between Lea Pale Road and Woodbridge Road, another industrial site a weatherboarded workshop with long horizontal strip window a small but effective piece of early c19 architecture.