Guildford
The Court, 15 houses1902 slice of Hampstead Garden Suburb by H. Thackeray Turner.
Hambledon UDC Offices 20th . by Coussmaker & Armstrong, 1938
Bury Street
Caleb Lovejoy Almshouses. Tudor 1840.
Facing west, you can see why Guildford grew up here. Pewley Hill, and the Mount - the hill which continues west as the Hog's Back — form part of the North Downs.
This high chalk escarpment cuts Surrey in half, pierced at
Dorking by the Mole and at Guildford by the Wey which flows north to join the Thames. The Normans built
a castle to overawe and dominate the town.
The Castle mound. made from chalk from the deep ditch cut into the eastern side of the hill.
This mound or 'motte' was the central refuge for the castle's garrison, where
they would retreat if an enemy broke through the outer defences surrounding the
'bailey', the enclosed area to the south and east of the mound. It is likely
that the motte was at first crowned by a small wooden tower, encircled by a
wooden palisade which was later replaced by a chalk wall. Fragments of this
wall can be seen on the southern crest of the mound.
Castle. Built
around 1125, it had a tower-keep mostly of local Bargate stone.
Originally, the only entrance was through a narrow doorway at first floor
level, reached by a flimsy wooden stair which could be destroyed by those who
barricaded themselves in. Alfred's
bodyguard massacre, 1216. It was captured by Dauphin Louis. In the medieval
period, Guildford Castle became less important as a fortress and more important
as a palace where King John spent a lot of time, as did his son Henry III. Both
Henry and Edward I made it into a luxurious royal residence and a lot of
royal business was transacted here. Later it became disused and derelict.
Chestnuts house
with the blue door. This was rented from 1868 by Charles Lutwidge Dodgson,
'Lewis Carroll'. His six unmarried sisters lived here. Dodgson frequently came on
holiday and sometimes preaching at St. Mary's. He died of influenza here early in 1898. His grave is in the Mount
Cemetery Castle Grounds: gas lamp standard. Fluted stone Doric
pillar 1830.
Gallows
Chapel Street
Mills printers. front by T.J. Capp of Guildford 1908.
Cottagey at first and then entirely early c19
Allen House grounds
46 Spread Eagle
St Joseph RC church 1881
Intricate piecemeal early 19th speculation
Friary Brewery is a complex informal industrial jumble of c.1860 with a big brick tower.
Old Corn Exchange Archway. This was built in 1819 to house the corn market, but became disused at the turn of the century. It was converted to other uses, but in the mid 1930s in order to allow Tunsgate to take motor traffic the central columns were moved apart and the rear wall built as an archway, allowing motor cars to pass through.
Archbishop Abbott's Hospital, ,George Abbot was born in 1562, the son of a Guildford cloth worker. He became a bishop, and then Archbishop of Canterbury. He built a 'hospital' - an old people's home or almshouse. completed in 1622 for 12 brethren and 8 sisters. Complete original furnishings. The Duke of Monmouth was kept in the gatehouse after Sedgemoor. . Summer house in the quadrangle.
Holy Trinity Church, dates from the 1760s. The mediaeval church unfortunately demolished. George Abbot's tomb. The pillars supporting the canopy stand on stone piles of books. Vestry is the original western chantry. Monuments in the porch. Memorial to speaker Onslow. .
Churchyard. Iron gates
Guildford station
Blacksmiths shop
Friary Shopping Centre
Friary was Dominican. Dissolved in 1538.
Opposite Friary Meux Brewery. Demolished. Informal industrial jumble.
Friary Street
Archway led to Georgian terraces now demolished.
Godalming Navigation
Leat which supplied the Town Mill,
already there when work began on making the Godalming Navigation. This feature
is part of the system for feeding water power to the Town Mill. Its overflow provides a
local 'white-water' training area for canoeists.
Tumbling bay to divert surplus water,
already there when work began on making the Godalming Navigation.
Millmead Lock is the start of the Wey
South Path which follows the course of the Godalming Navigation, the Wey &
Arun Canal and
the Arun Navigation to Amberley in Sussex.
Guildford Boat House
Guildford
Guildford had a population of about 700 at Domesday and
had a mint. The town seems to be a Saxon planned town with an older area around
St.Mary’s church. Became prosperous in the 13th and 14th
and as the main market town in its area and a royal residence. The town is a
parallelogram and shows evidence of Saxon or early medieval planning. It was
surrounded by a town ditch.
Central Hall/Plaza Guildford Plaza: October 1949. This 500-seater
was the third and last Odeon in the town, after the Playhouse and Odeon.
Cinema/
Astor/Studio/Cannon/ Flicks
Guildford Playhouse: October 1949.
One of a small number of British cinemas reached through an arcade. restaurant.
This was a County/Odeon property grouped with the Gaumonts.
Hayden Place
Live and Let Live
High Street
The only main street in medieval Guildford. It was intersected by a series of side
turnings called ‘gates’. It is on a convex hill, and there are several minor changes of level and slope.
25 –29 was Nuthall's restaurant with Jacobean interior
29 18th bank. Lloyds Bank was Guildford Old Bank. Established in 1765. The two downhill bays are facsimile of 1899.
It still keeps original ground-floor front
44 Endsleigh Insurance. Brick-lined pit found in a cupboard during
building work. Was not excavated
56 W.H.Smith.
was the post office 17th with bow window. Large
chalk block cellar found during building work
82 last shop before the Town Bridge
was a business concerned with the river. The earliest known occupier was James
Spark jnr who sold fishing tackle, hired out boats and made ginger
beer in 1839. Mr T Denty took over
in 1866 and he was followed in 1878 by Mr Martin who also ran a bakery.
93-95 Lakeland. Stone steps lead to a brick-vaulted cellar.
Evidence of a bricked up passage connecting to the nearby Angel Hotel
115 vaulted undercrofts. Late 13th .
143 Crabtree and Evelyn. Section of a 12th-13th century undercroft
revealed during alterations.
155 Child House. 1660,
this was built as the house of John Child, a lawyer. It
became a public art gallery in 1957,
165 Somerset House, 18th residence of the
Duke.
237-239 Pizza Express. Traces of cellars
found which were mostly destroyed by bank vaults.
Fish Cross
Guildhall. Town Hall with projecting clock. Here the
'Mayor and Approved Men' would meet to regulate the commercial and legal life
of the town. The hall is Elizabethan, but the frontage, with its bell
turret and balcony with a council chamber behind - and of course the famous
clock by John Aylward of London, probably 1683, when facade was added. Royal Arms. Plaster frieze of the human temperaments.
Harvey's, 19th design. Behind this running towards North Street is also Harvey’s a five-storey
shop by G. A. Jellicoe and Partners, 1957, On the fifth floor a
roof garden in the Swedish-style garden design.
Henrietta House. 1966. A straightforward four-storey block by D. B. & S. Coom 1966-8. Highgate House. 19th
with 12ft doorway.
Jeffrey & Son, shop, gold leaf under glass
Woolworth’s. The front was designed by Thomas Sharp. Site of Lion Hotel, 19th demolished
1957. Old lion included in the shop
front.
Norfolk House. 1959 by Scott, Brownrigg of Turner, .
Poultry Market
Red Lion also gone
Royal Grammar School. This was not founded by King
Edward VI: he merely re-endowed a foundation by Robert Beckenham, a London
merchant, at the beginning of the 16th century. Building on this site was begun
in 1557 and completed 30 years later. Library has 80 chained books. Names of lots
of distinguished old boys carved in the dining room. Founded 1509. And charter
1553. Arms of Edward
VI. The school has in its time produced
several bishops, Lord Mayors of London, and an Archbishop of Canterbury -
George Abbot himself.
New Grammar School buildings set back from the street
replaced Allen House also used by the school. This was 17th, remodelled 1770,
Sainsbury's. by P. H. Adams, 1905.
replaced 1961-3 by a tall all-brown facade architects are Scott, Brownrigg & Turner.
Trinity Churchyard. Shut off from the High Street. a tiny domestic square with brick and
plaster buildings, especially effective because the long brick sides of the
church shut off the High Street completely.
White Horse Hotel with extension at the back. 19th Hotel.
White Lion, The
name is a reference to the badge of Edward IV. gone
Jeffries Passage
Rebuilt with shops
with uniform boxed-out tile-hung upper floors by Central Of Provincial
Properties, 1967-9.
Leapale Road
Effective piece of industrial architecture. Weatherboarded
workshop
Martyr Road
Surrey Advertiser 1936 by Duncan Scott
Millbrook
a road and a car park both creations
of the 1960s, part of a scheme to relieve traffic congestion in Guildford.
Town Mill. Large
brick building. There have been mills on this site, probably since Saxon times,
grinding flour and fulling cloth in mediaeval and Tudor times when the wool
trade brought prosperity to the town. The building you see today was mostly
built in 1770, being extended at the west end in the 1850s. This extension was
built in an exact imitation of the Georgian style and it is only on close
examination that you can see the join in the brickwork between the two parts.
The mill ceased to grind in 1894, when the Corporation took it over as a
waterworks. When the nearby Yvonne Arnaud Theatre was opened in the middle of
the 1960s, the disused mill building was let as scenery workshops. It is now
intended that it should become a small studio theatre. The Date plaque is the
date on the council bought it. An impressive big mill of c.1760 with Victorian
additions. Brick, seven bays three storeys, plus a bulky hipped roof.
John Moon's
timber yard.
Ford giving an alternative crossing for horse-drawn
carts. Dredge this to let barges pass upstream and you no longer have a ford
Yvonne Arnaud Theatre. On the site of Williams and
Filmer's Guildford Foundry. Attractively sited.
St Nicholas Church. Third on site in 150 years.
Medieval church replaced in 1836 and 1885. Loseley chapel survives from
the original church – humble medieval.
Rest is Teulon – but not too much ‘beastliness’. Monuments etc. Dr.
Monsell, the rector and author of 'Fight the Good Fight' instigated the new
church. Tragically he died from an accident during the building work
Bridge until
1909, no way across the river.. A Mr Angell put forward the idea of making a
footbridge upstream of the Jolly Farmer Inn. He and his friends raised funds,
built a handsome oak bridge, and presented it to the town. This bridge has gone, replaced in
1933 by a concrete one of slim design but perhaps not quite so appropriate to
the setting as the old bridge.
First lock on Godalming Navigation. Flood in 1968 and
sluice gates control floods to water meadows. Electricity Works. Shell of
public station of 1913
Guildford Iron Foundry. Now
site ot Yvonne Arnaud Theatre. set up in 1794 by E Filmer and a partner and
made a wide range of iron castings. As Filmer & Mason from 1854 the works
produced, among
other items, cast-iron grave markers. Many are still to be seen in cemeteries
and churchyards . The buildings were demolished in 1941.
Leroy's Boat-house and Tea
Gardens. Built by Charles Leroy.
now a private house.
an untidy tangle of bus station and
traffic islands. Millmead goes along the river bank with pleasant industrial
buildings and a view of the Quarry Street backs,
Alice, her sister and the White Rabbit in bronze, a
reminder that the creator of Alice in Wonderland, Lewis Carroll, spent much of his time
at his house in Guildford.
Plummer’s self-important
bulk of by G. Baines & Syborn, 1963-7 stretches from the bridge along the
side of the river. The building is out
of scale with its surroundings, and the lifeless river-walk beside it is no
compensation.
Millmead House c.1700. Guildford R.D.C. offices, altered and added to. The original part is four bays wide, central
first-floor window with an architectural surround. Later c18 attic and porch, multiple c20
alterations and additions. The back is less
altered. It has one window with
delightful scrolled and broken pediment above it not attached to any aedicule
frame, just floating, in between the urn, and under it a tiny inset of grey
brick, a very individual touch, unlike any of the other Guildford houses.
Mount Street
The most notable thing in the street
is the superb view of the whole length of High Street and the town centre. Harvey's store and the car park on look
enormous, and Holy Trinity tower takes its place as the finial to the upward view, which it
never does in
4, of the late 17th with
simple recessed patterns in the brickwork, then
Mount House 1730 bulky
Anglo Saxon Cemetery.
Charles Dodgson grave.
Gothic Booker's Folly.
Tower also used for electrical experiments.
North Street
Had been North Town Ditch. Use by cattle market. Site of
cockpit. Rebuilt since 1960. Parallel to High Street with remarkably little in it. It was originally the back
lane of the single-street town, and was not fully built up until c.1800. Since 1960 it has been almost entirely
rebuilt. There is still little worth
individual mention. The best thing is
the set of parallel pedestrian alleys running between it and High Street.
Cloth Hall, brick manufacturer 1629 by George Abbot who
became Archbishop of Canterbury, subsidised linen weaving in the town
Paupers House, 1656 and School 1856. Tower added shop
Perring
Abbots School. Offices. 19th tower. Now offices. Towards the street but
a long, grim, three-storey range running back from it in exactly the same style as the
Hospital mullioned windows etc. Built in
1619, but of no visual importance.
Public library by
Highet & Phillips, 1959-625 yellow brick, with a weak convex facade with a large
window
Maples Store. Very
large building by Scott, Brownrigg & Turner, 1963-4. Two and three storeys,
the upper floors projecting, with thin black mullions and black spandrels. The building follows the curve of the street
uphill and
ends with a sleek, brash, rounded end at the comer of Chertsey Street.
There was a neo-Norman range of
varying height and degree of projection, two to three storeys, probably of
c.1840. An archway inscribed Salvam
Domine Pac Victoriam led to an eight-house terrace of completely plain Late Georgian
three-storey brick, now demolished.
Onslow Street
Rodborough Buildings. Oldest car factory 1901 Dennis. Sold
1919 to Rodboro Boot and Shoe Co. Probably first multi storey car factory. Buildings. Printing works
Sports Centre
Park Street
16th cottages demolished 1957
16 Plough. Restful haven, looking out through quaint
diamond-paned windows on to Guildford's busy one-way system. A small interior
has just four tables
and a brick-built island feature at which customers can stand or sit on bar
stools to chat
Runs towards Godalming from the
extreme end of the High Street. The
beginning has now lost its earlier character completely.
Two plain eleven storey blocks of
flats higher up, by Scott, Brownrigg & Turner 1963-4.
A pair of
bulky mid-Georgian houses with bow windows
2-4 Mount Pleasant several c. 19
pairs of speculative Grecian villas,
61-71, each sharing a four-column
colonnade.
73-75 is another with battlemented
recessed one-bay wings and Gothick windows.
1-4 Rectory Place. Norman Shaw. Two identical pairs of c.1880. They are of his period, to use a cliché -
i.e. in his pretty informal tile- style. Three storeys,
with the two upper floors overhang and tile-hung, two single-bay gables balance
double bay. Seen together in their
careful prettiness, they seem to be just a gimmick for domestic compared with
Wycliffe Buildings with its carefully thought out use of the site.
Congregational Church. 1965
97 Hitherbury House. Exactly the same style, but bigger and more composed; it still looks
like what Gordon Cullen has called an alibi for design
This street has many interesting old buildings. Some are
Georgian, and others are Tudor timber-framed houses with Georgian facades. The
buildings on either side are timbered, and have the projecting first-floor
'jetty' so characteristic of Tudor town houses. A plaster frontage added, and
marked to imitate stonework, to bring them up to date in the 18th century.
58 shop.
Cellar containing large chalk block walls noted.
Castle arch. Probably built in 1256 by John of Gloucester,
Henry Ill's master mason. The grooves for the portcullis can still be seen.
Hall- and-cross wings house takes its name from the Castle Arch. It was built in about 1630 by
the Guildford merchant Francis Carter. Twenty years previously he had bought
the castle grounds from King James I. Carter at first attempted to live in the
keep, which had been used as a prison but found the massive tower too
uncomfortable and inconvenient. He therefore built a new mansion at Castle
Arch, using the stonework of the northern gate tower as an end wall. The house
has subsequently passed through several hands and in 1898 it became the
headquarters of the Surrey Archaeological Society and the town's museum.
Riverside gardens
Gate where the castle wall met the street, caves, which
were probably chalk quarries, stone for St.Paul's
Millbrook House. Plastered front. Tudor
Lots of Georgian and Tudor houses, can see backs from
Rosemary Alley
6 17th house with crude pargetting no figures, only geometrical patterns: a rarity in
Surrey, but probably through destruction of most of the other local examples
5 17th
Medieval wall
Queen Elizabeth Park
Women's Royal Army Corps Museum
Racks Close
Path from Castle Arch to steps leading old Quarry area
named after tenter frame racks. Blocked entrances to caverns from which clunch
stone was mined for building. Chalk for lime burning too
Rosemary Alley
A series of steps, giving first-rate
picturesque views of backs of the Quarry Street houses.
it was originally used as an open sewer running down to the river
Shambles
Chamberlain
Station Approach
Bridge House. 1959 admirably unaffected. By Scott, Brownrigg & Turner, a
seven-storey office block. Alternate
bands of glass and pink granite chippings, no decoration except ft 'BRIDGE HOUSE' in bold
letters. A very good example of knowing when to stop.
Stoke Road
2, a
skittish flint and stock-brick front with all the windows ogee-headed.
The Mount
Tunsgate
A massive, deep portico of two pairs
of Tuscan columns and pediment. Built as
the Corn Exchange by Henry Garling, 1818, and in 1935 shorn of the building behind
and made into a car park entrance - both a successful case of sympathetic re-use
instead of demolition and the source of a queer, unintended Osterley-like
effect in its own right. As so often
happens with early c19 public buildings, the style is much more vigorous than
if it had been done by one of the big names.
The portico is Tuscan, not Greek Doric.
Walnut Tree Close
Warwick’s Bench
An odd area that was laid out
expensive houses c. 1900 and still has open country immediately beyond.
Garden Court fundamentally timid by Baillie Scott
Undershaw with pergola built in 1910 in the Tudor style with a sophisticated entry from the
street via a pergola running between low-roofed wings in the Lutyens way. Fundamentally timid by Baillie Scott
Wey
Warehouses on the Banks of the Wey
1856 Joseph Billings London Printing Works and let as
warehouses in 1962. Bookbindery is now Bishop's Move. Until 1913 bonded
warehouse of Friary Meux
Annandale's house
Area of Barrack Field
One of the first to be canalised 1690s. Ext to Godalming
Navigation 1762. . Richard Weston 1653 to link Guildford to the Thames. Dutch
pattern.
Wey Navigation
Crane & treadmill, black, weather-boarded building which houses the Treadwheel Crane.
This stood on-the Town Wharf and was dismantled and re-erected when the
embankment was constructed in about 1970. The River Wey was one of the first
rivers in England to be canalised, in the 1650s. The Wey Navigation brought a
flush of prosperity to Guildford and the waterway was extended as the Godalming
Navigation in 1762. The Treadwheel Crane was used to load and unload the barges
moored at the wharf, the cargo frequently being wheat. 17th century, with chain and hook. Treadmill 18' diameter in a timber building. Capable of lifting up to a 3-ton load which it
last did in 1908 when handling concrete building piles. Rare pre-c19 industrial survival. Small, weatherboarded and tile building, half
open for wagons to drive in, half enclosed and containing an enormous tread
wheel, 15 ft in diameter, geared to a crane on the waterfront. Probably c18, and in fairly good condition.
Angle between Lea Pale Road and
Woodbridge Road, another industrial site a weatherboarded workshop with long
horizontal strip window a small but effective piece of early c19 architecture.
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