Sunday, 20 January 2019

Islington Essex Road

Post to the north Canonbury

Alwyne Road
Especially grand Italianate examples where the gardens back on to the New River.
I7 Alongside the house is part of a late 16th octagonal garden house from Old Canonbury House. The brickwork is covered with stucco.

Arran Walk
This was Marquess Road until the 1960s.
80 The Bridge.  Built as a Council Neighbourhood Centre, this is now New River Baptist Church providing community service for the area

Asteys Row
This is a footpath parallel to the New River, originally built in the mid-18th by a John Astey. The area suffered considerable bomb damage in the Second World War It is now a narrow space with rockwork; some called 'Islington's Cheddar Gorge'.
New River.  This section of the New River was enclosed in pipes in 1892/3 and became a stretch of derelict land. Later the pipes were removed and gardens laid out here.  There have been re-landscaping works since as Asteys Row Rock Gardens.
Children’s playground. Recently remodelled.

Canonbury Crescent
Walter Sickert Community Centre. The refurbished centre was re-opened in 2009 by the Mayor of Islington

Canonbury Grove
Road overlooking the New River. The road dates from 1823, and was once called Willow Cottages and Willow Terrace;
New River. There was a loop here in the original course of the river, some of which can still be seen.  This was once open fields and the river took this, its last loop, called the "Horse Shoe". It was straightened in 1823 when the streets were laid out in Canonbury Fields. Almost half a mile of the New River remained an open r-channel until 1946 when it was terminated at Stoke Newington. It was then converted into a park and is now the only section in Islington with a continuous stretch of water.
Brick building. Within the remaining curve of the New River is a small circular brick building which is likely to be late 18th. It may have been used by a linesman working on the New Rivera

Canonbury Road
The road was built as part of the New North Road built in the early 19th linking the start of the Old North Road at Shoreditch with the Great North Road at Highbury Corner.  It was a ‘propriety road – a turnpike road built as a private road by a group of proprietors. By Act of Parliament it was managed by the Metropolitan Turnpike Trust from 1849.
Canonbury Bridge – where the New River ran under the road
52 Myddleton Arms. Dates from at least 1839. It was once a Courage House but has now got posher. There are old features in the bar back, windows and cellar opening. The tables are converted oak barrels. It is named after Sir Hugh Myddleton, who built the New River. It is listed.
St Stephen’s Church.  This was a new church in 1839 taking on some of the parish of St. Mary, the Islington parish church. It is a pale brick Gothic building by W. and H. W. Inwood & E. N. Clifton and laree lengthened by A. D. Gough. I was bombed and burnt out in 1940; then reconstructed by A. Llewellyn Smith & A. W. Waters in 1957.
New River Walk and Canonbury Gardens. This continues the riverside walk, although this stretch was historically in pipes until this section of the river closed and it was turned into park land and amenity space.  Canonbury Gardens is also used by the Manna Project which is growing an edible forest together with St.Paul’s Church working with homeless people.

Canonbury Street
32 Marquess Tavern. This was developed around 1854 by James Wagstaffe. It is in brick with a roof obscured by parapets on a corner site with the main front to flat on Canonbury Street flat, and the sides to Douglas Road and Arran Walk. The words 'MARQUESS TAVERN' is on the cornice in sunk lettering. Inside is a horseshoe bar counter and deal panelling from the late 19th. It is now a Young’s pub.

Douglas Road
Beyond Canonbury Grove there were fields until in the 1850s Douglas Road was built. It overlooks a stretch of the New River.
40 between the Marquess pub and the terraced houses, is a glass house by Future Systems - Jan Kaplicky and Amanda Levete built in 1993-4 with engineering by Arup.  It is like a glass version of the three-storey houses nearby. At the back – seen from Arran Road - is a slope of plate glass. The front wall is predominantly of glass bricks.  Inside, are metal staircases to three decks and a freestanding service core.

Ecclesbourne Road
Ecclesbourne Road Primary School. This was opened by the London School Board in 1886 as Eccelesbourne Road Board School.  This school closed in 2004 and is now flats.

Elizabeth Avenue
This was previously William Street and Oxford Street.

Elmore Street
Only a short distance of the Essex Road end of the street is in this square –but this was once James Street.  Up to the 19th much of the area was brick-fields.
77 The Children’s House. This a nursery in what was a church mission and subsequently a Hindu Temple,
BAPS Swamiarayan Hindu Mission. In 1950 devotees began to meet in a house near Baker Street. In 1970 they began to look for somewhere to open a mandir and came upon this site in Islington and purchased it. It was refurbished it and it became the first Swaminarayan mandir in the western world. Sacred images were brought from Kampala and a Vedic ceremony was performed with thousands witnessing the procession. In 1972 thousands of Indians expelled from Uganda came here and the Islington mandir became too small although in 1974 large painted murtis retrieved from the Tororo mandir were installed. In 1980 they began work on the Neasden Mandir and eventually moved there
St.John the Baptist Church Hall and Mission.  This church was in Cleveland Road, was bombed in the Second World War and eventually demolished.

Essex Road
Essex Road was originally ‘Lower Road’. It may have had Roman origins and was part of route out of north London which led to Ermine Street. From 1735 it was part of the Islington Turnpike Trust.
144a The Green Man. Mid-19th pub sometimes called ‘The Old Green Man’. It is on the corner of Greenman Street which might indicate that it is older than it appears. This had some Courage signage outside which has now gone since 2016. The dodgy geezers remain as does a Courage sign on the corner high above the door.
161 Carlton Cinema. This opened in 1930 as a cine-variety theatre for the Clavering and Rose circuit. The architect was George Coles and it was a lavish building with an Egyptian style facade in multi-coloured Hathernware tiles. Inside the style is Empire style - Egyptian in the foyer and French Renaissance in the auditorium. There was a cafe for patrons. And a Compton 3Manual/6Rank theatre organ plus Full stage facilities with a 26 feet deep stage and four dressing rooms. It was taken over by Associated British Cinemas Ltd. In 1935 and re-named ABC in 1962. It closed in 1972 and was converted into a bingo hall as the Mecca Bingo Club, but closed in 2007. Resurrection Manifestations purchased the building and set about refurbishing the building for Church, community use and private hire. Church use began in late-summer 2013 and the building is now Gracepoint, avenue for arts, educational shows, family performances, theatre, corporate meetings and events.
River Place Health Centre
181 Essex Road Station. Opened 1904 it lies between Highbury and Islington and Old Street on the Great Northern Railway. It was built by the Great Northern and City Railway on its underground route between Finsbury Park and Moorgate.   It had 16’ diameter tunnels to take main line stock and Great Northern Line trains to the City. In 1913 it was taken over by the Metropolitan Railway and thus became part of the underground as the Northern Line. In 1922 the name was changed to ‘Canonbury and Essex Road’. In 1939 work which had been done as part of the Northern Heights scheme was abandoned. It became underused and neglected. In 1975 the Northern Line closed it and the station transferred to British Rail and in 1976 it reopened for main line trains from Finsbury Park to Moorgate. It was never modernised and access to the platforms is by a dimly lit spiral staircase.
207-229 works 1960s. 1970s North London Polytechnic School of Librarianship, The Polytechnic of North London was founded following a merger in 1971 of the Northern and North-Western polytechnics. The North-Western Polytechnic had acquired premises here in the 1960s. The site later became council offices for Islington planners, and is now flats.
229 This building – at the north end of the complex later owned by the Polytechnic, is shown as mainly in Canonbury Street. In 1915 the whole block was in use by Danneman whose piano works fronted on Northampton Street round the corner. Later maps show this building marked as a print factory.  In the 1950s it was an address used by Carnegie Brothers, founded in London in 1911 who from the 1930s were Carnegie Chemicals Ltd of Welwyn Garden City. They produced a range of pharmaceutical products.  It was also an address used by the Cellusan Co., who made items like tampons and maternity pads – however company directors were all called Carnegie.  .
196 Akari. This Japanese restaurant is in an old pub.  This was The Three Brewers from the early 19th owned by Ind Coope.  It has also been called Bloom's, Leopold Bloom; Speculator (owned by Stella’s Irish cousin) Nubar, Le Montmarte and Jersey.
St. Matthew’s church. This began as a temporary chapel, founded in 1836 in what had previously been a Wesleyan Methodist chapel. A church was built in 1850, designed by A.D. Gough. In 1966 it was demolished. It was asymmetrically placed with a thin spire.
246-90 Annett’s Crescent built 1822-6.  Architect was William Burnell Hue, In the 1970s the Council restored the houses, and the strip of garden in front.  It is the only early crescent in the parish.
279 Northampton Arms pub. This dated from the 1830s. Long since demolished it is now flats.
292 /Council Odffices. This  was built in 1812 for W. Weaver, and in 1819 was bought by Ridley as a floor-cloth factory whose firm held it until 1893.  It was then acquired by A. Probyn, a beer bottler, whose firm, founded in 1791 remained here until 1958 as Foster Probyn Ltd.  In 1962 Young’s Brewers moved in, leaving in 1972. Islington Council restored the exterior and converted it as council offices removing colourful advertising in the process.  It is a four-storey Palladian building with Georgian-style windows; the classical porch has been removed although a balustrade with stone balls has survived.

Greenman Street
Was Greenman Lane, named after an old alehouse.  This square covers some of the north site of the street – i.e. excludes the Peabody Estate.
Tibby Place. This small park was once the location of Tibberton Baths. Part of the structure remains as a memorial
Tibberton Street Baths. This opened in 1895 had a mixed bathing pool with spectator gallery and changing cubicles and a stepped diving stage. There was also a dedicated men only pool and a Ladies only pool. There were ladies and men’s slipper baths, a remedial pool and a public laundry.
The Baths were built on the site of hat manufacturer, Thomas Wontner’s mansion

Morton road
Morton Road Park. Local park with a children’s playground, a tarmac ball court with basketball hoops and football goals and shrub beds. It is on the site of 19th housing.

New North  Road
The road was built in the early 19th linking the start of the Old North Road at Shoreditch with the Great North Road at Highbury Corner.  It was a ‘propriety road – a turnpike road built as a private road by a group of proprietors. By Act of Parliament it was managed by the Metropolitan Turnpike Trust from 1849.
Victoria Cinema. This was at the corner of and Ecclesbourne Road and opened in 1912. It was designed by architects Lovegrove & Papworth, and always operated as an Independent cinema. It closed in 1957 and became a warehouse. It was demolished in 2001 and there are now flats on site.
286 Corley’s Tavern. Originally called the Kenilworth Castle.  The pub dated from least the 1840s and may have been earlier. It was later rebuilt following bomb damage as a modern estate pub in 1953.  Demolished 2011.

Northampton Street
Street-names in the vicinity of Canonbury House recall the former manor 20 and its owners the Spencer Compton family. Marquesses of Northampton
6-18 The Ivories.  The Daneman piano company’s art deco factory now converted to office use.
2 Daneman, piano manufacturers.  The firm dated from 1893 and were still making pianos in 1980.  William Danemann established the firm here and from the 1950s they were one of the largest London manufacturers of grand pianos. They also made school uprights in their hundreds for education authorities. In 1982 Broadwood purchased Danemann Pianos and the factory and manufacture of pianos ended in 1983. the Danemann name is carried on in the piano business and since 2017 Danemann Pianos are manufactured in China.

River Place
National School. This was attached to St. Stephen’s church. It was built in 1842 with a National Society grant and also financed by subscriptions. It closed in the 1880s and was sold in1882.
Urban Hope. This is a youth and community project to the rear of St.Stephen’s church and using the space which was once their church hall.
Congregational chapel.  This was registered from 1864 and a Lecture room added by 1872.  It closed 1909.
14 Toy Factory – this appears to have been on the site of the congregational chapel until replaced by the rear of the health centre, fronting in Essex Road.

Rotherfield Street
St. Matthew's School. this had opened in 1837 in Essex Road. As a National school in 1862 it moved to Queens Place which then ran across the area which is now the Bentham estate. The new building was used for Girls and infants.  The school closed in 1901
140 Duke of Cleveland. Pub. This closed in 2006 and is now flats.  Until recently the pubs name was displayed on a poster at the top of the north facing wall – and above it the same can still partly be made out in concrete lettering.

Willow Bridge Road
Part of Frog Lane – the old road from London to Highbury. Laid out in the 19th. Crosses over an old line of the New River;

AIM. Web site
Brewery History. Web site
British History online. Islington.  Web site
British Listed Buildings. Web site
Clunn. Face of London
Cosh.  New River 
Cosh. Squares of Islington
Essex-Lopresti. New River 
Historic England. Web site
Islington History and Archaeology Society. Web site
London Borough of Islington. Web site 
London Encyclopaedia
London Gardens Online. Web site
London Mandir Baps. Web sit
Manna Project.  Web site.
Pevsner and Cherry. London North
Pubology. Web site
Pubs Galore. Web site
Sugden. Highbury,
Thames Basin Industrial Archaeology Group. Report
Wild Swimming News.  Web site
Willatts. Streets of Islington

Thursday, 17 January 2019


Post to the west Sandown
Post to the north Imber

Douglas Road
Coal duty obelisk on the railway embankment in front of 100 near the junction with Blair Avenue.  It displays a coat of arms.

Littleworth Common.
This was part of the Ditton Commons and known as Ditton Marsh, as it was once an open wet meadow. A large pond has been built on the edge of the Common. It has secondary woodland - birches and bracken – and roe deer.

Lower Green Road
Coal tax post. This is on the south side of the road opposite Lower Green Open Space
Bridge carrying the main line to Surbiton out of Esher Station.  This bridge was – from the abutments – once considerably wider.  Old maps show sidings on the embankment above the road on the east side of the bridge.  In the embankment here is a brick structure which appears to include a blocked tunnel and old maps mark a ‘subway’. This subway was an exit from platforms 1 and 2 and was financed by the Racing Club as a quicker way to get to the racecourse from the station.

Portsmouth Road
This is the A307 and the old route of the A3, London to Portsmouth road.  By the 17th, the Portsmouth Road had strategic significance as the road link between London and the main port of the Royal Navy. The modern A3 follows its general route but by-passes several urban areas - including Esher. However this part of the original route has retained the name, Portsmouth Road.
Scilly Isles. This is a double roundabout on the old main road which was named thus in the 1930s when the Kingston by-pass was added to this junction – apparently evolving from ‘silly islands’ which was how the new traffic islands were perceived.
Marquis of Granby. This is a Greene King house. The pub building dates from the 19th. The Marquis of Granby is said to have bought porter for his troops – but was generally careful of their welfare. Many pubs were named after him.
Thames Ditton and Esher Golf Course. This was founded in 1892 and built on common land. It lies between Sandown Park Racecourse and the Marquis of Granby pub (
Café Rouge. This was the Orleans Arms which closed in the 1990s.
White Lady. This stands outside what was the Orleans Arms. It is a large cylindrical block of limestone and is a milestone known traditionally as the "White Lady". It was erected in 1767 and stands on a plinth, crowned by a ball finial. There are three vertical columns giving places and distances and encourages travellers to use Hampton Court Bridge not the turnpike.
Milestone. A series of triangular-shaped milestones were placed along the Portsmouth Road, probably in the late 18th, giving the distances from Hyde Park Corner, Portsmouth. The one near the Orleans Arms is now missing.
Majestic Wine Warehouse.  This retail facility appears to be on the site of what was a garage on the 1930s - possibly called The Mikado.
Thames House. This 1970s office block appears to be built on the site of the City Arms Public House.  Behind the pub was a lane called ‘City Place’ – which presumably is the site of the modern Sandown Gate.
Toll House. This is on the corner of Littleworth Common Lane and is said to be a toll house. There is a cylindrical boundary stone set into the wall. It is now in use as a nursery,
City Coal post by Old Toll House and almost built into it

Sandown Park Racecourse
Only the eastern section of the racecourse is in this square.
Sandown Park Golf Course. This is on part of the race course.
Race Course. The Park, which was the first enclosed racecourse in Britain, opened in 1875.  It was the first purpose built racecourse with enclosures, designed to be a leisure destination.  It is run by the Jockey Club.

Station Road
Esher Station. This opened in 1838 and lies between Hersham and Surbiton on South Western Trains.  It was originally built between Woking Common and Nine Elms by Brassey on the outskirts of Esher and called “Ditton Marsh” and near Weston Green. It became Esher & Hampton Court in 1840, Esher & Claremont in 1844, Esher in 1913, Esher for Sandown Park in 1934 and Esher in 1955. 3 By 1840 the railway had been extended to Southampton and the company was called the London and South Western Railway. It had been first designed as a direct, safer route to London from Southampton. Stations were built as distribution points for goods. Howe very 1848 passenger numbers led to opening Vauxhall and Waterloo Bridge Stations. Esher station was expanded by 1888 with four tracks and royal waiting rooms for royal family members living at Claremont. From 1940 Esher had special platforms for the race days at Sandown Park. With a considerable increase in passengers. Sidings were also built to the west to store these race day trains. A signal box known as ‘Esher East’ had to be installed to deal with the extra traffic. These platforms were demolished in 1972. The ticket office was underneath the down platform and on the forecourt was a taxi rank and car park. The freight yard closed in 1962 and is now a car park. Buildings on the middle platforms were removed in 1966. The station was rebuilt in 1988 with a new footbridge and station building.

Closed pubs. Web site
Clunn. The Face of London
Haselfoot. Batsford Guide to the Industrial Archaeology of South East England.
Historic England. Web site
Industrial Archaeology of the Borough of Elmbridge. Web site
Jockey Club, Web site
London Transport. Country walks 
Marquis of Granby. Web site
Penguin Surrey
Pevsner Surrey
Reynolds. A History of Esher Station. Web site
Sandown Park. Web site
Surrey History Journal
Wikipedia. As appropriate

Wednesday, 16 January 2019

Epsom Downs

Bunbury Way
Housing Estate. Built by Charles Church on the site of Epsom Downs Station and its marshalling yards. Windey lane, oldey looking houses all built in the 1980s. Amazing.
Epsom Downs Station. This opened in 1865 and was the terminus of the Southern Rail Line from Banstead. This station was built by the Banstead and Epsom Downs Railway Company to service race goers to Epsom Race Course via Sutton and was  opened by London Brighton and South Coast Railway designed by David J Field,.  The address was Longdown Lane South. Originally it was half a mile from Epsom racecourse and, for 36 years until Tattenham Corner station was opened it was the station for race traffic but no road was built from the station to the Grandstand until 1892. They also handed school treat days.   It had nine platforms, with no shelters, which were in in use for only six days a year. The platforms were reduced to two in 1972, and later reduced to single track operation in 1982.
Station masters office and house on a small covered concourse at the front.
Signal box. This was built by Saxby & Farmer in 1879. It was burnt down in 1981.
A turntable lay on the east side of the approach line. To the north of the turntable the road divided into two with one road terminating at a brick water tower.
Goods. A full range of goods was handled including livestock. There were two private sidings for Gadson and Kerr.
Epsom Downs Station.  The current station opened in a new building and booking office were opened in 1989. It lies at the north end of Bunbury Way.

Burgh Heath Road
South Hatch Stables. This includes timber-framed boxes built when Scobie Breasley and Reg Akehurst trained here. The yard dates from 1900 and includes a staff cottage and hostel by the road here. It has planning consent for demolition and housing on site
46 South Hatch House. This was separated from the stables and sold.  It has operated as a pub and restaurant as the Downs Bar but is now closed.  People who have lived there include Reg Akehurst (horse trainer), Arthur Breasley (jockey), Arthur Nightingall (jockey), Bessie Nightingall (motor racing driver), John Nightingall (horse trainer), Walter Nightingall (horse trainer), and William Nightingall (horse trainer).  It appears to have included the Racing Club Museum
Beech Cottage. This was used as the Epsom Golf Club clubhouse
Shifnal Cottage. This was the head lad's cottage for South Hatch and was and named after the 1878 Grand National winner who was trained by John Nightingall.
Wendover stables. Roger Ingram Stables since 1993. Over 300 winners have been trained here
Epsom Urban District Council Reservoir No 1, This was t a height of 360 feet above sea level, had a capacity of 150,000 gallons It is now filled in.

College Road (in the square to the north)
Epsom College. This was the Royal Medical Benevolent Institution in 1853, now it is a boys’ public school. Only the southern section is in this square which mainly comprises the college sports grounds.
Sports centre. This has two large halls and smaller ones for fencing and other specialist sports. It also has a climbing wall. It has provision for cricket nets, providing indoor cricket practice

Longdown Lane
Epsom Golf Club. Only the northern section of the course is in this square. The area had been used for golf before the club was set up. In 1888 residents started to take up the game and a preliminary meeting was held. As a result a club was formed and a course laid out. They used Beech Cottage as the clubhouse and then built a new one in 1893 helped by Lord Rosebery and designed by J Hatchard-Smith.  Later a snooker extension was built and this remains with its 19th fittings
Air raid shelter. This was built for the Second World War opposite the station. In 1940 Surrey County Council proposed five deep level air-raid shelters. They were to be near stations but in open country, The Epsom shelter was built in 1941 fronted the road for 1,500 people. The Longdown Lane shelter was below road level entered via a sloping path in a cutting. A bomb was exploded over the shelter to observe the effects detonated by Ministry of Home Security Research Department staff with no reported effects on the animals or birds arranged nearby. The shelter probably came into use in early in 1942.

Disused Stations. Web site
Chelsea Speleological Newsletter
Epsom College. Web site
Epsom Golf Club. Web site
Industrial Archaeology in Reigate and Banstead
Notable Abodes. Web site
Penguin. Surrey
Pevsner. Surrey
Racing Post. Web site

Tuesday, 15 January 2019

Epsom Town Centre

Post to the north Epsom

Ashley Avenue
This is now the southern part of the road which encircles the Ashley Centre and part of the A24. The road appears to have been a 1930s cul de sac running westward from Ashley Road between the police station and Ashley House
2 Epsom Gateway. Office block
Epsom Playhouse. This opened in 1984 and has a programme featuring professional and community productions. I5 includes the Myers Studio which used as a regular venue for professional productions, Jazz evenings, children's shows and community events.
Statue. Outside the entrance to The Playhouse is a statuette of John Gilpin as 'Spectre de la Rose' by Tom Merrifield
Petrofina House. Petrofina were an early office occupant of the Ashley Centre.
Bradley's Brewery. The brewery appears to have originated with James Chandler who with his son in 1824 to set up as brewers and maltsters. They were bankrupt by 1857 and William Bradley took over the brewery and rebuilt it in 1870 to brew ale and porter. The brewery was in South Street and Ashley Road parallel to what is now the south side of Ashley Avenue. . The brewery had a number of local public houses. They were taken over by Page and Overtons of Croydon in 1903.  The buildings became a factory used during the Second World War for parts but demolished in the 1980s for development of the town centre.
Ashley Works.  This appears to have been part of the defunct brewery buildings and at various times was used by a woodworker, dynamo and machine tool maker, an upholsterer and a pharmaceutical manufacturer.

Ashley Road
Ebbisham Hall and Myers Hall – which stood behind it.  In 1929 these halls were opened by the Epsom branch of the Brotherhood. This was an organisation for men in trade connected to the Congregational Church. There was a billiard room above Myers Hall and a stage in Ebbisham Hall. There was an impressive entrance in Ashley Road and its facade was incorporated into a store in the Ashley Centre
Ashley House.  The date of 1769 is shown on the rainwater head. Its name comes from Mary Ashley who lived there until 1849. It was apparently built by a London soap boiler called John Riley and was a private residence until the early 1920s when it was bought by a local builder who altered it and sold it as offices of the Rural District Council in 1926. In 1934 it became a Surrey County Council property used as a Registry Office and later Social Services. It has now been converted into flats.
Magistrates Court. In 1857 a courthouse was held in Ashley House and later a Courthouse, was built opposite the house. Opening in 1912, and extended in 1931. It suffered some damage in both World Wars. It was refurbished in 1992, Epsom was no longer a Petty Sessional Division after 1993, although the courthouse continued to be used, and was later used by Immigration Appeals Tribunals.  It has since been demolished and he site is now housing.
Epsom Methodist church. The church dates from 1914 moving from an earlier chapel. The church hall was built in the late 1950s and there were later additions. The Leyland Rooms were named for Dr Leyland. The church now has an active youth section with a new building, and also hosts a Chinese church with Chinese language services.
University of the Creative Arts. Several buildings of the Epsom campus are in Ashley Road.  The University is basically a coalition of a number of art schools in Kent and Surrey which have evolved from various institutions since the 19th. In the case of Epsom this appears to be the Epsom Technical College. The Epsom campus opened in 1973 and was then the Epsom School of Art and Design. It now hosts the university’s fashion, graphics, music marketing and business courses.
Police Station. Home Office approval was granted for the erection of a police station in Epsom which was occupied in 1853. This was on the corner of what was Ashley Avenue. In 1919 the police station was badly damaged during riot by Canadian soldiers and in July 1944 it was hit by a German V1 Flying Bomb thus a temporary station was set up at Worple Lodge until 1946.
Swail House. This is supported housing for blind and partially sighted people built by Action for Blind People.  It was Worple Lodge which was bought by the London Association for the blind and opened in 1952, with money left by Martha Smail.

Clayhill Green
This is registered common land.

Dorking Road
Turnpike Road to Brighton going via Dorking and Horsham
Abele Grove. House, built in the early 19th in about 6 acres of lawns and pleasure grounds, with a wooded grove, a dell and a kitchen garden. In 1908 it became a private nursing home for the aged or infirm. It also operated as a private mental institution... It then became a private residence until 1928, when became a convent and school for the Sisters of the Sacred Hearts, a French order. It was a private school with its own farm and orchard and closed in 1992. In 1997 it was converted into the Haywain pub. It is now a Premier inn
White House Farm and Murrays Meadows. This was pasture south of the railway and part of the Hookfield Estate. It lay behind The Elms and Abele Grove.

High Street
1 The Cinema Royal. The building had previously been Chuter Brothers builder’s merchants. Mr H. Farmer of Redhill drew up conversion plans. It opened in either late-1910 operated by the Thompson family. There were special performances during the First World War in support of local hospitals. It was refurbished in 1929 when sound was and it had a free car park. It closed in 1938. The land had been compulsory purchased to widen so it was demolished, but because the Second World War the widening never happened and the site remained empty. That side of the road was later redeveloped with shops.
22 Charter Inn.   Charrington House it opened 1938 closed 1970. On maps this is shown as a single building but 22 is now part of the terrace. Above the door is a fan shape with the 1955 on it. Thus the pub must have been rebuilt with the terrace of shops. It is now an ‘interiors’ shop.
100 this early 18th building has a 19th metal standard alongside. This was a corn, hay, straw, coal, oil and garden supplies store. Now an insurance business
112c late 17th shop. Now a hair and beauty business.
114-116 The Odeon Cinema was built for and operated by the Oscar Deutsch chain. It opened in 1937 when the local Council insisted on the facade was of narrow bricks and stone dressings by 1961. The foyer was used for various exhibitions and publicity displays. Audiences were dwindling and from 1961 Bingo replaced the matinee film but this was not a success, and became part of the Rank Organisation following the merger of Odeon and Gaumont British in 1941. The Odeon closed in 1971 and within a month the building had been sold to a property developer and was demolished, a Sainsbury supermarket was built on the site but Sainbury’s have now moved and it is a TKMAXX
The George. This was built at the same time as the cinema but replaced a much older pub of the same name. It was demolished with the cinema,
126-134 Albion terrace. This was built in 1706 by Dr. Livingstone an apothecary, who established his New Well in South Street.
134 The Albion. Probably currently closed. Has been an Irish pub recently.  It is thought that a second medicinal well was discovered around 1699 on land behind this pub.   This is where the magistrates met in Petty Sessions.  Had originally been a coffee house.
137-139 this is late 17th Bramshott House.  Apparently Samuel Pepys said that Nell Gwynne and Lord Buckhurst were here. It is now Cafe Nero
147-153 Assembly Rooms. This was built in 1692 and was initially called the New Tavern. It incorporated an existing bowling green and became a venue for activities such as bear baiting and cock-fighting. Tt was built as two ranges with a central carriage road between them.  In the rear section were two long rooms – an assembly room and a dancing room. The front section had a coffee room, a tavern and a billiard room.  It later became known as ‘Waterloo House’ and housed Bailey’s drapers shop, along with others. In the 18th plays were staged here, by the 19th the building was divided into shops, and a farriers. It was used by a series of stores and then from 1966 the National Counties Building Society, a company founded in 1896 as the Post Office Building Society with offices in London and its primary aim of providing postal workers with loan and financial services moved here.  It later became a Weatherspoon’s pub.
King's Shade Walk and entrance to the Ashley centre. This is on the site of the King's Head Hotel which fronted the High Street. It is mentioned by by Pepys in 1667 but had been trading under this name since 1663. In the late 1770s it was used for vestry meetings, and in the 1830s the original courtyard was enclosed to form a large assembly room in which county balls, dinners, concerts and fetes were held.  There was also a corn exchange along there and a livery stable at the rear. It had been rebuilt, in 1838 with a projecting entrance and an assembly room. It was demolished in 1957.
Kings Shades. This was another pub which stood next to the Kings Head.
90 Spread Eagle Hotel. This is now a clothes shop. The pub dated from around 1710 and by the mid-19th was a hotel with billiard room, assembly rooms and so on. Spread Vestry meetings were held here in the 18th and it was used by coach services to London too. It continued trading as a public house until about 1990 when the deterioration of its interior led to its closure. The main building was taken over as a shop in 1994. Part of the site has been developed as Spread Eagle Walk Shopping Centre.
91 Metrobank was the White Hart Hotel which closed in the 1980.   Later it became a shop and then a Building Society
Horse trough. This 19th trough once stood at the junction with Church Street. It has a trough for dogs at ground level and a higher one for horses and a tap for people. There is an inscription "Presented by the Metropolitan Drinking Fountain and Cattle Trough Association”. It is sometimes planted with flowers now.
Market Clock tower. This was built in 1848 with toilets at its base. Built is on the site of an older, clock, which included the lock-up while outside were the stocks, still reportedly in occasional use not so long before that time. Originally the tower housed the town's horse-drawn fire engine but in the early 20th it was surrounded by railings and held street lamps.
Pond. This was to the west of the tower and was filled in during 1854

Housing surrounding the site of Hookfield House. In the 16th part of the area appears to have been named after someone called Hook.
Hookfield House. This was a late 17th house demolished in 1858. It was I a large park with a conservatory. It replaced an earlier house and was itself replaced with a white brick house. This was sold in 1919 and was bought by a building company who developed the area in 1937. The house became the Hookfield Park Hotel but in the late 1950s it was pulled down for houses in what is now, Lindsay Close.
1 this was the lodge to Hookfield House

Ladbroke Road
Epsom Church of England Girls’ School. This girls’ school opened as an extension of the school in Hook Road in 1871.  The site is now housing.

Rosebery Park
This park, Epsom's largest open space, was built on a site called Reading’s Mead. It was donated to the Borough by Lord Rosebery in 1913.  An original bandstand has now gone. There is a pond remaining from the original design, plus a fountain presented by Epsom Protection Society.
Public air raid shelters for the Second World War for 1,440 people were built there.

The road is named after a house which once stood in South Street next to Acorn 3 pub
St Joseph's Catholic Primary School

St Elizabeth Drive
2 An ice-house survives behind the house in woodland. In the grounds, of what was The Elms.  One of the earliest examples in the country, it is accessible from St. Margaret's Drive. Ice house, probably built around 1700. Brick, set in an earth mound at end of what was a long a canal.

Saint Margaret’s Drive
This road, at the back of what was Abele Grove, along with other estate roads is built around a large open space called Abele Green.
St.Joseph’s Church. In the 19th Benedictines at Cheam, were responsible for Epsom Catholics. In 1859 a church was set up in a cottage near the railway and then land bought in Heathcote Road, The church was opened but there, were problems and eventually a new site was located and dedicated in 1996. The new church opened in 1991.

South Street
Once called New Inn Lane. Behind the shops at the north west end were rows of cottages – Controversy Cottages and The Folly.
Epsom Cycle Works. Said to be at the junction with the High Street in the early 20th. It was run by Tom Hersey
New Wells site. This was accessed via an alleyway alongside the Albion Pub, which now goes to a garage. New Wells was built in 1690 by a John Livingstone who also built shops, bowling greens, gaming houses and a dance floor there. As well as the coffeehouse which became The Albion?
37 Theatre Court. This was once the site used by Epsom Coaches and Buses. The company was founded by Herbert R Richmond in 1920 with one Model T Ford charabanc.  In 1934 they moved here and left in 1971. The site is now new build flats
30 Acorn3. This pub was recently called Symond’s Well.  It was previously called The Magpie but the name was changed in 1996. It is near where Dr. Livingstone an apothecary, established the New Well together with a bowling green and other leisure activities. The name ‘Symonds’ refer to an earlier owner.
Land between No 30 and 32. A ‘disused well’ is shown here on maps up until the 1960s although there is apparently no sign of it now. A private well appears to have been sunk on land owned by Mr. Symonds in the late 17th. This is said to have been on land near the Magpie public house but the exact location is uncertain.
53 The Shrubbery early 18th house which was on the site which is now the Ashley Avenue junction
55 Oracle House.  This is on the site of Randalls Mineral Water Factory. They originated with the production of bottled mineral waters and fruit juices in 1837 and in 1884 they moved to Epsom, eventually to 18 South Street. From 1935 they were at 55 South Street. In the Second World War; the premises were used by the Fairey Aviation Company for the manufacture of aircraft components. Randalls closed in the early 1980s when the Ashley Centre shopping mall was built.
Path up to Mount Hill House – the area of the house is now retirement housing called ‘Saddlers Court’.
Mount Hill Gardens. A small, quiet garden park on the site of gardens of Mount Hill House. The park was opened to the public in 1965.
Sweetbriar Lane. This old footpath runs along the south end of Rosebery Park
77 Queen's Head. A pub of this name was on the site in 1746, but the present building is a rebuild.  The inn-sign was Queen Adelaide, facing Epsom. It appears to have closed in 2011 and is now housing.
Woodcote Hall. This was called The Poplars in the 1880s
and it is on the corner of South Street and Woodcote Road. It was rebuilt in the mid-18th and was converted to flats in about 1930.

Station Approach
The road is now wall to wall modern flats plus a Tesco, a Travelodge and some other shops.
Epsom Station. This opened in 1859 and now lies between Ashstead and East Ewell, West Ewell or Cheam Stations.  In 1859 a minimal station was opened on this site by a small independent company, the Epsom & Leatherhead Railway as a single-line track to Leatherhead. Originally this had a wooden building and a canopy of sorts. Changes were made to improve facilities for race days. Later that year the London & South Western Railway came to Epsom with a line from Waterloo, via Raynes Park, following a plan initiated by the Wimbledon & Dorking Railway. A bridge, called Volunteer Bridge, was also built across East Street. This was built by the London and Croydon Railway who already had an Epsom Station in the Upper High Street (in the square to the east) and the new line connected the two stations.  It meant that trains from London Bridge and West Croydon could run through to Leatherhead.  Later connections went to Dorking, Horsham, Effingham and Guildford.  In the late 1920s these lines were converted to third rail electrification. In 1928 a new art deco station was built here which could handle the trains of both the original rail companies. There were two island platforms with glass canopies. Subway and ticket offices were on the south side of the embankment and one side of the subway was fenced off for parcels and luggage.  The station has now been rebuilt again.   The main ticket office and station frontage have been completely demolished and rebuilt to include shops and a hotel. It was completed in 2013.
Goods. This was closed in 1928 except for two sidings used for horse-boxes for race horses arriving by rail. These were removed in 1986
Signal Box. This was on a gantry straddling the lines at the south end of the station and dated from 1929. It was taken out of use on 29 July 1990 and demolished in 1993.

Station Way
This is an alleyway between 86-88 High Street. It was changed in 1929 when the station was rebuilt. It originally ran directly from the High Street to the station.

The Parade
Epsom Town Hall. Built 1933 designed by Hubert Fairweather, and William Pite
1 Comrades Club CIU registered club. Thus is currently being rebuilt as part of hotel scheme.

Waterloo Road
Before the 1920s the road also covered the roadway now known as Station Approach.
BRM coachworks. This is basically a vehicle repair business dating from the 1970s
32 Electrical substation – this is a railway structure
Railway bridges.  There are three bridges here bringing lines into and out of Epsom Station to destinations to the east
Fire Station. In the late 19th the Epsom Fire Station was in Waterloo Road, backing onto the railway embankment at what is now the east end of Station Approach. The horses were stabled elsewhere and had to be fetched before the engine could proceed to a fire. They moved to a new station in 1911.
30 Printbarn Ltd. Estate Management in printers workshop rear of No.30
Epsom Square. This was previously the Ebbisham Centre. Originally built in the 1990s it site was reconfigured in 2017 into a ‘welcoming café culture location’. The site was previously ‘Boots Car Park’ where there were also public toilets.
Library. Epsom Library moved into temporary accommodation in a house Waterloo Road in 1947. It stayed there for fifty years, until the redevelopment of the Ebbisham Centre.  It was replaced by a pre-fabricated building, in The Parade in 1998. The new Epsom Library opened in 2001 as part of The Ebbisham Centre. Part of the complex is on the site of the old Epsom Library in Waterloo Road but it is accessed from the High Street.
16 The White House. Listed 18th house used as offices.
Foresters’ Hall. This was originally a Wesleyan Methodist chapel built in 1863. The Epsom Court of the Foresters was founded in 1860, and known as Court Wellington after a pub where the first meetings were held. Afterwards they moved to what became known as Foresters Hall. This large building, stood until the 1960s.
5 William Page’s Waterloo Cycle Works in Waterloo Road, which had been founded in 1907, and which became an engine works. On the frontage are terracotta roundels, a terracotta frieze and a central oriel window.

West Hill
Was previously Clay Hill
Fair Green. This is registered common land.
14 Sycamore Centre. Pupil Referral Unit. It was originally Orchard School. This was a private primary school described as a "Froebel Kindergarten”. This closed in the early 1960s. from 1970 it was the Clayhill Centre for remedial Education – described as leading edge.
Christ Church hall. Dates from 1899 and was sold to a private school in 1986
22 Epsom Christian Fellowship.  The group dates from the early 1970s and for some years meetings were held in a rented hall. When this became too small the present premises were bought in 1984 and extended. In 1988 the Cornerstone School also flourished here until its closure in 2015.
26 Eclipse House .  Offices in what was the Eclipse Inn., named after the invincible horse of the 1770's, whose descendant include many classic Race winners, with no owners willing to race their horses against him he was retired to stud nearby.
West Hill House. Offices in a copy of a house which dated from about 1700 which was rebuilt in the late 20th
23-25 Hookfield Mews. Hookfield was a house to the south. This was the stable block and estate entrance. It is now sheltered housing.
Epsom Court Farm. Kingswood House was built on this site where there were existing paddocks
Kingswood House. This was built here by Colonel Kelly, owner of Eclipse which was retired to stud here He made so much money that he built a big house around 1785  to entertain the elite of the racing world. He had 35 paddocks for his large stud of stallions, brood mares, colts and fillies."
West Hill Infants School. This opened in 1844 in converted stables with an endowment from Miss Elizabeth Trotter of Horton Manor. It was extended in 1872 but later condemned as insanitary before closure in 1925 and subsequent demolition.
Kingswood House School. This is on the site of Kingswood House and the Kelly stables.  It is a ‘preparatory’ school, founded in 1899 and moved here in 1920.

West Street
The extension of West Street south is post Second World War.
4 Marquis of in an 18th building with a later porch.
13 Old Manor House. Early 18th building, this was ever a real manor house. Now offices and flats
15 White House. 18th house now offices and flats
21 British Legion. 18th house. This is closed and is now used by a nursery.
Wall between Manor House Court and 15 West Street. This dates from 1680-87 and is stone and red brick in English garden wall bond with lower courses of clunch and greensand. It has tiles and carved stone said to be from Nonsuch Palace.  In 1706 entrances were cut into the wall to give access to a bowling green, and later infilled
Territorial Army Hut. 154 Cadet Detachment ACF, ACF Hut,

White Horse Drive
This was the original path to Epsom Wells on Epsom Common
Tamarisk Cottage. 18th weatherboarded house. This was probably the dairy for the Elms estate.
Rosebery School. This was built on land given to the borough by Lord Rosebery. It was originally Lord Rosebery Girls County Secondary School from 1924l and later an amalgamation of Rosebery Grammar School for Girls and Epsom County School for Girls. It is now an ‘academy’ since 2011.

Woodcote Road
Epsom Sports Club. Francis Schnadhorst Memorial Ground. This was secured in perpetuity for the Epsom Cricket Club in 1934 by the Schnadhorst family. The Club, which was founded in 1800, has played at Woodcote since 1860.It is now home to a number of other sports including croquet, hockey and lacrosse.

Abdy. Epsom Past
Architects Journal. Web site
Beamon. Ice Houses
British Listed Buildings. Web site
EMC. Web site
Epsom and Ewell Council. Web site
Epsom and Ewell History Explorer. Web site
Epsom Christian Fellowship. Web site
Epsom Sports Club. Web site
Kingston Zodiac
London Transport Country walks
Lost Hospitals of London. Web site
Lost Pubs Project
Nairn. Nairn’s London, 
Parker. North Surrey 
Penguin. Surrey
Pevsner. Surrey
Rosebery School. Web site
Sycamore Centre. Web site
University of the Creative Arts.  Web site

Monday, 31 December 2018

Epping Bower Hill

Post to the east Coopersale Street
Post to the south Flux's Lane

Bower Hill
Theydon Bower. This was a ‘big’ house built around 1800 with castellations ‘pleasant but fanciful’. The site is now ‘an apartment complex’.
Bower Hill Industrial Area. This is the site it Epping Gas Works. The Epping Gas Co. was formed in 1862 and began to supply gas about 1865 as the Epping gas and electricity company.  In 1911 it became part of the Bishop's Stortford and District Gas Co., which in 1949 was merged in the Eastern Gas Board. There were two holders and originally sidings from the railway line – although these are not shown on maps from the 1930s.
A number of factories are shown post- Second World War on sites adjacent to the railway.

Bower Vale
Epping Sanitary Steam Laundry. This was set up by Crispus Cottis. The laundry’s derelict buildings are being replaced by housing

Centre Drive
William Cottis and Sons. Manufactured everything from ornamental lampstands to hay sweeps. Crispus Cottis company in 1858 originally for agricultural machinery but also expanded architectural fittings, transport and household items. The Cottis Brick works was in Bower Hill 1888 and 1904. And later on the site which is now Epping Station car park. The company’s Archimedean Ironworks was in the High Street. Changes from the 1950s onwards led to a decline in the business and the foundry closed in 1982 after a period of being operated by other owners,
British Mathews and W. C. Pantin Ltd, they designed and manufactured mechanical handling equipment sold to firm like Fords, Midlands steel, breweries. In the 17th Pantin had offices in central London. And traded in commodities. They realised that it would be cheaper to produce handling equipment via a manufacturer from the USA as British Mathews part of WC Pantin. In 1937 the entire operation was moved to the former Cottis brick and nail making site at Epping.  In the early 1980’s demand for conveyors started to fall and the company was sold and in 1989 the site closed and in 1992 flats were built there,

Station Road
Epping Station. Opened in 1865 it is now the terminus of the Central Line from Theydon Bois. It was originally promoted by a small specialist company as an extension from Loughton to Ongar in 1858 and was eventually opened by the Great Eastern Railway. The station was a quarter of a mile south of the town centre and described as an intermediate terminus. It had a passing loop, a goods yard and an engine shed was added in 1892. Before 1914 there was a double track to Epping from Loughton.  In the 1930s it was decided that the line should be taken over by London Transport as part of the Central Line but this was delayed due to the Second World War. By 1949 the line to Epping had been electrified and this was eventually extended to Ongar in 1957. From 1970 London Transport wanted to close the line to Ongar and this happened in 1993. The line was sold to a private rail group, the Epping Ongar Railway, who have never been allowed to reopen the service to Epping.
Goods Yard. This was at the London end of the down side. It closed in 1966.

Stewards Green Lane
This is a green lane that was once the main London to Newmarket Road. It is now a bridleway, linking Stewards Green Road to Cooper sale Street running through arable fields bounded by old hedges. At the south end there is a double hedge and ditch. In the hedges are oaks plus some ash. field maple hawthorn and blackthorn as well as elms, holly, wild service and plum.

Stewards Green Road
A small estate on the north side of the road is in this square – the rest of the road isn’t. The estate was built in the 1960s and replaced a wartime prefab estate.

Stonards Farm
On some maps from the 1920s this is shown as “Stonehurst”.
Stonards Farm. In 1518 John Baker left the profits of the farm to a charity for repairing the highway between Harlow and London. In 1637 the Commission for Charitable Uses decreed that no more than £20 a year should be spent on the highway and in 1768 the road came under the care of the Epping and Ongar Highway Trust and in 1780 the Lord Chancellor directed that all the profits of Stonards should be applied to the poor. By the early 19th funds raised from the sale of timber hakd been invested and the income spent on apprenticing poor boys and by 1863 give to Epping British School and go towards almshouses. The almshouses were built in The Plain in 1877. Eventually Stonards was sold and the money invested.

Brady Pocket Guide to London
British History on line. Epping. Web site
Day. London Underground.
Epping Forest District Council. Web site
Epping Forest Guardian. Web site
Epping Society. Web site
Jackson. London’s Local Railways.
London railway record
Troy Homes. Web site

Wednesday, 26 December 2018

Enfield Town

Post to the west Enfield Town Centre
Post to the south Bush Hill Park

Bush Hill Park
Bush Hill Park, park (as distinct from the neighbourhood of the same name) was opened as Bush Hill Recreation Ground by Enfield Urban District Council in 1908, having been acquired from what had been Low’s Nursery. It was added to in 1909 and 1911. It has formal gardens, rose beds, and trees including horse chestnuts and oaks.   A drinking fountain was installed in 1911 and a bandstand in 1913.

Cecil Avenue
2 LMC Construction Company Depot.Chalkwell Park Avenue
New River. This runs underground, in pipes, going south. The pipe-run is under allotments to the rear of houses between here and Lyndhurst Gardens
St Ann’s and Hazelwood Playing Fields. Entrance

Enfield Playing Fields.
Only the south west quarter of the fields is in this square.
The Fields were provided as recreational space in 1939. The large area of land,  was previously Bury Farm, which was bought by Enfield Borough Council with the help of a grant of £3,500 from King George's Fields Foundation, as a result of which the site is also known as King George's Playing Fields.

Kimberly Gardens
George Spicer School. Some buildings at the north end of the road

Ladysmith road
Enfield Electricity Works, 1906. Built by the North Metropolitan Supply Co with transformers to reduce voltage and to convert alternate to direct current. The building is now in other use

Lincoln Road
Some of the road was once known as Red Lane
Level Crossing. This is a rare gated, manually operated crossing. A footbridge is being considered and it has been closed since an accident in 2012. There are some rights of way issues.  A crossing keepers hut remains.
Corporation Depot, adjacent to the level crossing. .The site is now housing

New River
The New River enters this square running parallel to Ladysmith Road. At Southbury Road the new course of the river running south starts and there is an enclosure, control valves and some buildings on the corner of Southbury and Eaton Road. The river then it goes into pipes and runs south underground – the longest stretch under the allotments between Lyndhurst Gardens and Chalkwell Park Avenue and crosses under Lincoln Road.
The old course of the river continues from Southbury Road westward, and is fed with water by arrangement with Thames Water. It continues parallel with the north side of Southbury Road and into the next square, where it turns north.

Seaford Road
Oldbury Moat. This stood on the north side of the road. It was a large rectangular enclosed by banks and a moat. There were three arms still visible in 1902. In a corner was a small mound which could have been the site of a tower or a mill. It is suggested that it may have been the original site of the Manor House of Enfield.

Southbury Road
Enfield Town Station. Opened in 1849 it is the terminus of the line from Bush Hill Park. It was built by the Eastern Counties Railway on the line from Angel Lane and called ‘Enfield’. It was renamed Enfield Town in 1886. T was built at the crossroads in the centre of Enfield on the site of an old house which in 1670 with a façade and tracery of carved brickwork - Disraeli’s father is said to have been born there. It was also a school attended by John Keats.  As a station it had iron railings, and a station masters’ house.    In 1875 a service from Finsbury Park was set up and the station was rebuilt. Thus the old house was demolished – there are some relics of it in the Victoria and Albert Museum and a plaque to it in the station. 1Irwas again rebuilt in 1957 By BR architect H.H.Powell. It is a flat roofed building in brick with a ticket office, waiting room, toilets, and cycle store.  Additional canopies and shelter were put up on the platforms.  All Great Eastern structures have been removed and the station is part of London Overground.
Signal Box.
Goods yard. East of the station. Leased for an office block -  Pinnacle House
Pinnacle House, but originally; called Bovril House, built 1964 with 7 storeys and shops at ground level. It has also been called New River House.  It appears originally to have been Head Office for the Bovril Group.
Savoy Cinema.  This was built for Goide & Glassman and opened in 1935. It was in an Art Deco by prolific George Coles. It had a working stage and orchestra pit, five dressing rooms and a Wurlitzer 2Manual/7Rank theatre organ. There was also a cafe/restaurant on the balcony foyer and a free car park at the rear. It was taken over by Associated British Cinemas in 1936. In 1962 and re-named ABC, in 1966 the Wurlitzer organ was removed to the West Hallam Social Club in Derbyshire. In 1978 it was closed for conversion into a 4 screen cinema. In 1986 it became part of the Cannon Cinemas chain and was re-named Cannon. It was re-named ABC again in 1996 but closed in 1997. It was demolished in 1998, to provide access to a new Tesco supermarket which was built on its car park.
New River. There is a small site with some control valves which adjust the volume of water going into the pipes.
George Spicer School. The school is named for Deacon George Spicer who campaigned, against Anglican opposition, to establish the Enfield School Board. The school opened in 1912 as a junior school.  Later A selective central school opened in adjoining the junior school, and survived until replaced Kingsmead comprehensive school. The primary school remains on number of adjacent sites.

Waddington Close
This is on the site of a dairy depot which ran from Burleigh Road to the railway. It may have been for Express Dairies.

Cinema Theatres Association. Newsletter
Cinema Treasures. Web site
Clunn. The face of London
Dalling. The Enfield Book
Enfield Grammar School. Web site
Enfield Society. Web site
Essex Lopresti. The New River
Field. London Place Names
Gatehouse Gazetteer. Web site 
Historic England. Web site
London Borough if Enfield. Web site
London Encyclopaedia
London Gardens online. Web site
London Railway Record
Metropolitan Water Board. London’s Water Supply,                 
Middlesex Churches 
Middlesex County Council. History of Middlesex 
New River Guide
Pam. A Desirable Neighbourhood
Pam. A Parish near London
Pam. A Victorian Suburb
Pevsner and Cherry, London North
Sellick. Enfield
Sellick. Enfield Through Time
Walford. Highgate to the Lea, 
Walford. Village London

Monday, 24 December 2018

Enfield town centre

Post to the west Windmill Hill
Post to the south Bush Hill Park
Post to the east Enfield Town

Baker Street
The road is a continuation of Green Lanes, part of a drove road into London. In Enfield is also called Silver Street
14 Police station. Post war building.  Outside is an old police lamp on the site corner

Burliegh Way
Rialto Cinema. This opened in 1920 by Denman (London) Cinemas. It was however leased to Sydney Bernstein in 1925 and redesigned by Cecil Masey and interior designer Theodore Komisarjevsky. There was an ornate entrance facing the Market Place and a posher entrance round the back. It had a ‘straight’ Jones 2Manual organ later replaced by a Christie 2Manual/7Rank theatre organ in 1927. It was re-named Granada in 1967 and closed in 1971. It became a Bingo Club, in later years operated by Gala. It closed in 1997 and was demolished in 2010.

Cecil Road
Laid out early 1900s. It was extended up to Church Street through the ground of Chaseside house which was demolished. The house had been bought because of intentions to build council offices there.
79 Enfield Town Community Church. This appears to have been Enfield Town Evangelical Free church, which was built in 1897. It was damaged in the Second World War and replaced in 1956 by a plain brick building.  It is now in a new modern building of 2012 by CPL Architects, having left the old building in 2004 which was CPOed so that Lidl could be built.
Enfield Wesleyan Methodists. This was a brick church on the corner with Sydney Road built here in 1864. It closed in 1889 and was used by St. Andrew's National school as a girls' school. They left in 1926 and it later became the parish hall for St. Andrew's church
28 British Legion, The club, said to be one of the oldest in the country, opened here in 1921 but moved elsewhere in 1971.
KICC Lighthouse, Kingsway International Christian Centre. This branch is on pert of the Baptist Church complex.
Enfield Baptist Church. Built 1925, by W. Giles Scott but intended as a hall. The church was rebuilt in 2910.
British Telecom Exchange. This was the GPO installation office plus telephone exchange. It was built in 1925 but remained manual until 1960.
28 Central Library.  Built 1912, it was a Carnegie Library designed by Richard Collins who was the Surveyor to the District Council.  It was extended in 2010 to a design by Shepheard Epstein and Hunter with a glass and steel frontage onto the re-landscaped Library Green. It is on two floors, with a cafe, children’s corner, and quiet spaces, reading chairs (with window views), self-service check-in/out and lots of internet access points.
Library Green. This was part of the grounds of Chase Side House purchased in 1901 by the District Council. The Green was laid out as a public green space and re-designed in 2010.
Town Park.  This is an Enfield Borough Council Park opened in 1903. It has four tennis courts and two multi-use games areas which can be used for basketball and 5 a side football. The New River Loop passes through the Park and the stream is widened to form a lake with an island. The banks were strengthened with old railway sleepers. At the southern end of the Park the loop turns eastwards under a footbridge and continues to the boundary where the water flows away to waste. There are iron gates at the Cecil Road entrance with an adjacent drinking fountain, and railings. It was part of the grounds of Chase Side House.

Chapel Street
This road did not exist before the Second World War, and initially was not connected south to Enfield Town. It was originally cottages called Love’s Row which were unhealthy and demolished to be replaced by Council flats.
Saddler’s Brook – the stream passes under this area.

Chase Green
Remnant of Enfield Chase. Originally woodland it became part of Enfield Chase in 1136 but commoner’s rights were retained, the Chase was enclosed in 1779 and again in 1803 except this area which was transferred to Enfield Urban District Council in 1898. It was thus the first public open space in Enfield. A portion was part of a land swap deal with the Great Northern Railway in 1904. It is now a registered Village Green. In the early 1800s it was used for cricket with a paid beadle in charge of organizing the mowing, rolling etc. as well as paying the team bill at the Cricketers Pub and taking bets on the outcome of matches. There is some oak woodland remaining.
Cenotaph Gardens and War Memorial. This replaced a bandstand built in 1900. It dates from1921and comprises a tall, tapering pedestal on a stepped base, within a paved area with twelve stone posts. Above is a tapering sarcophagus. It is inscribed OUR GLORIOUS DEAD and on the sides 1914 - 1919 and 1939 - 1945. It was unveiled by Lt-Gen Sir Francis Lloyd on and contained a capsule, with copies of The Times, The Enfield Gazette and Observer, an autographed list of members of the Enfield Patriots' Committee, and some coins.
Forge – a forge in the south west of the Green closed in 1933.

Chase Side
The road is marked as this on Rocque's map of 1754 and the Ordnance Survey map of 1887 – the reference being to Enfield Chase. The road was called ‘Woodside’ in 1572

Chase Side Place
19 The Cricketers. McMullins House since 1919.

Church Lane
The lane dates from around 1803
Portcullis House Gothic building.  A small crenellated building at the edge of the churchyard was built by the Vestry in the early 19th for the parish fire engine. From 1882 it was a mortuary becoming a Chapel of Rest for a local undertaker, then offices. It is now a church meeting room.
Enfield Treatment Centre.  This is attached to an adjacent Health Centre and Practice.

Church Street
This street has evolved from a path which would have led from the edge of The Chase to The Green, the Church and the roads to London and to Hertford.
100 Metaswitch. This is a software company whose offices are on a site used for Council offices in the 1960s and the YMCA earlier. .YMCA in 1919 erected a hut here from Enfield Lock which was called the Red Triangle club for ex-servicemen.  -  provided billiards and so on.
Trinity Methodist Church. The church moved here in 1889 from Cecil Road. The church is by F.  Boreham in ragstone, with a tower, spire and pinnacles. It is now run along with united reform and includes St. Paul’s Presbyterian Church.
St Paul’s Centre. This is in a former Presbyterian church. It describes itself as a ‘village hall’ or a ‘church centre’ and provides space for many organisations and activities. It is a large ragstone building of 1907 on a prominent comer site by W. Wallace and a Subdivided 1987.  There is an Ordnance Survey flush bracket is on the front of a building.
New River. The Old Course flows under it to the west of Gentleman’s Row and Cecil Road. The bridge was widened in 1910.
Chase Green Gardens. These are on the corner with Chase Side laid cut 1900 belatedly for Queen Victoria's diamond Jubilee. The Millennium Sundial replaced an earlier drinking fonntain and was inaugurated in 2000. The New River Loop flows through the gardens and is crossed by a 19th iron bridge. In 1938 the Council took the Enfield Loop under their control.
Post Office. Built 1906 on what had been the grounds of Percy House. It displays the royal arms on the gable and ‘Enfield Post Office’ lettering over the door.
48 Rising Sun. This pub was demolished for road widening. Had opened in 1736
Fountains. Coach builders – ‘of note in Middlesex”
Enfield Palace – this was once on the site of Enfield Palace Shopping Centre.  The building known as The Palace was a 16th manor house extending 450 yards along the street. It had earlier been a substantial moated building approached by a gatehouse from what was then the Green. It was used as a private school from the mid-17th until the late 19th. It was subsequently used as a post office at the turn of the 20th century and later as a Conservative club; convalescent soldiers were entertained there in the Great War. The last remains of it were demolished in 1928, for an extension to Pearson's department store.
Palace School. Dr. Robert Uvedale, master of the Enfield grammar school, opened a private boarding school in Enfield manor-house around 1670. It was later known as the Palace school and closed in 1896.  Uvedale was a botanist who built numerous outbuildings to house and planted one of the first cedar of Lebanon trees in England in the grounds
Welch’s Livery Stables. They ran a horse drawn cab service into the early 20th.
Graham Cycle Manufacturer. This was run by two brothers, and later became motor engineers. They made a ‘Parade’ bicycle and a tandem and later a motorised bicycle with a rear basket work passenger seat.

Church Walk
Church Walk dates from at least 1590
Enfield Grammar School.  The school was founded in 1558. They took over Poynetts, an endowment which funded an earlier chantry school. An older school-house existed east of the churchyard in 1572 where the grammar school began, until the building of Old Hall in the 1580s using money left by William Garrett. It remained a grammar school until the 1960s when it was amalgamated with Chace Boys School as a comprehensive school. The school buildings are next to the Market Place and Church, and have been extended several times including shortly before the Second World War. In 1924 the lower school was moved to a site in Baker Street was purchased to accommodate the lower school. Charles Babbage went to school here Frederick Marryat, and later also the Babbage children. The earliest surviving building is from the late 16th.  The address of the current school is in Parsonage Lane. The school is now an ‘academy’ with no mention of its past or past alumni on its web site.
St Andrew’s Church. This is a town church. A priest is mentioned in the Domesday Book of1086 which might imply the presence of a church. Records dating from 1136 cite a link to Saffron Walden and there are some remains of around this date. The church was restored and enlarged in the 14th including the tower, over the Chancel arch is a painting from 1923 as a memorial to Enfield men killed the Great War and there are many monuments to the dead of many centuries
Churchyard. There are any monuments including to a New River surveyor. The graveyard has a number of different railed areas, and paved walks. It was enlarged in 1778 with the purchase of land to the north. It is densely planted with yew, Scots pine and other ornamental conifers and prominent horse chestnut. An ancient yew clipped as a cone has now been lost.
School of Industry. This was an Anglican school for girls opened in 1800 in premises in the churchyard belonging to Prounce's charity and known as the Old Coffee House. It was supported by voluntary contributions and managed by a committee of ladies. In 1876 it moved to premises in Silver Street

Churchbury Road
The New River runs beneath the road and into the gardens around the Civic Centre

Genotin Road
This was originally Station Road.
2 Enfield Arms. In 1855 this was the Railway Hotel. Closed 2005 and demolished.
7 Bar Form. Opened 2005 in old shop premises. #
Chase Non-Ferrous Metal Co Ltd where L.Whitworth was ‘one of the pioneers of die casting”.  They went out of business in 1992

Gentleman’s Row
The road follows the Old Course of the New River. The town of Enfield was almost encircled by the loop of the New River, which in 1890 was abandoned as the length from Enfield was piped underground. This stretch was saved by a public campaign and it is essentially a linear lake.
The Gardens have willow, cedar, beech, holly, laurel and yew with roadside planting of limes. In 1998 the New River Loop Restoration Project began to restore the watercourse, bridges and railings, as well as the timber river banks.
1 Registry Office and Borough Health Office.  Once known as Little Park it is a formal five-bay mid-18th house which once had gardens and a lake to the rear. It is now owned by Enfield Council.
Coach House. This was an outbuilding, a barn. Around 1950 it was rented by the Enfield People's Theatre Group for constructing and painting of scenery.  It is weather boarded with a projecting gable and is now converted into housing. It is adjacent to No.11.
17 Clarendon Cottage.  An 18th house with a 17th chimneystack built round a late medieval timber-framed hall house.  Where Charles Lamb with his sister, Mary, lodged with Mrs. Leisham in 1825 and 1827.
33 Archway cottage. This was once Archway Tavern which may have had town cockpit in the front garden. It lost its licence in 1913. The building dates from around 1750 and an arch leads to what was Love's Row – now called Holly Walk
Trinity Church Hall. Attached to Trinity Church built 1913-14 by F. Bethel. Used by the Jason Theatre School
Footbridge. 1613 in classic cast iron.

Gladbeck Way
Site of the GNR goods station and the original terminus of the line. The canopy is at the Whitewebbs museum. Housing here dates from early 2000s.

Holly Walk
A back lane, running between the Grammar and County schools to emerge in Gentleman's Row
Enfield County Upper School. Built as girl’s grammar school in 1909. Designed by H. G. Crothall of Middlesex County Council.  Enfield County School was administered by Middlesex County Council Education Committee and merged with Chace Girls School which had been formed in 1962 as a girls' secondary modern school from the senior girls department at Lavender School. It became the comprehensive girls' Enfield Chace School in 1967, changing to its current name in 1987. In 2005 the school was designated a specialist school for languages.

Horseshoe Lane
12-15 Crown and Horseshoes 19th pub. This is a Greene King house.
Danby Court built 1974 as sheltered housing. The site had had a number of previous uses.
Stag Brewery, founded 1760, taken over as a works for dyeing cotton in 1856 but became a brewery once more in the 1880s and closed soon after 1890.It may have been owned by a M. Green and later by the Gripper Brothers of Tottenham.  It later became the Picuredrome
The Picturedrome opened in 1911. The building had previously been in use as a brewery, a dye works and a soup kitchen. The Cinema closed in 1918.
Suttons. A local drug company which had a warehouse on the site of the Picuredrome until the mid-1960’s. It was demolished and Danby Court built on the site.

Little Park Gardens
1 The Stag Hotel.
Bus Station. Terminus for a number of bus services

London Road
Continuation of Green Lanes from Silver Street –a drove road into London
Enfield Baptist tabernacle. A classical brick building was opened in 1875 for a membership of Particular Baptists. It included a lecture and a Sunday school on a site opposite. It was sold in 1925 and a church opened in Cecil Road.
National School. St. Andrew's or Enfield National School opened in 1839 in a brick building here with separate schoolrooms for boys and girls as well as evening classes for adults. An infants' schoolroom was also added. From 1879 it was used only for girls and infants and in 1891 the girls moved elsewhere. The building was then bought as a Sunday school hall by the Baptist tabernacle.
Florida Cinema. This opened as the Queen’s Hall Kinema in 1911. Independently operated, it was the first purpose-built cinema in Enfield and it included a tea lounge/café. Having been bombed in 1940 it closed and became a Ministry of Food store. After the war it was taken over by Davies Cinemas Ltd. and called the Florida Cinema from 1947. In 1974 it was taken over by Granada Theatres Ltd. and it closed in 1976. It became a banqueting hall and function suite called The Town House and then a nightclub which closed in 2004. It was demolished in early 2005 and the site is now flats.
Police Station. This dated from 1873 and is shown on maps of the mid- 1960s as a ‘horse patrol’
St Ann’s Catholic School for Girls.  This opened in 1994, following an amalgamation of Holy Family Convent School and St Angela's School for Girls
Holy Family School.  The sisters of the Holy Family of Nazareth established a private school adjoining their convent here in 1907. It school became part of a new comprehensive school in 1967 the upper classes using this site.
Our Lady of Mount Carmel and St. George, Roman Catholic Church built 1958 by J. E. Sterrett & B. D. Kaye in pale brick with a large square tower.
52 Convent of the Holy Family of Nazareth. This is part of the Congregation of the Sisters of the Holy Family of Nazareth an international, apostolic religious order of pontifical right, founded by Frances Siedliska.
47 Revival Christian  Church.

Market Place
Originally the market was held on a small green. The current market place has been licenced since 1532, when market proceeds were dedicated to poor relief. The market has a 1616 charter from James I. 1632 vestry bought and demolished Vine Pub to make space. In 1822 a fence was erected between the churchyard and the Market Place. It is now a paved triangular roundabout
Market cross, built 1826 in an attempt to revive the market. Later the top became unstable and was removed. Re-erected in Myddelton House Gardens to decorate to pergola.
Market House - 19th octagonal timber-columned structures which was re-built in 1904 to commemorate Edward VII's coronation. The original market house was built in 1632 and demolished in 1810.
Drinking Water Pump. Cast iron public supply hand pump still with handle, which stood in the Market Place from 1847-1904. Reinstalled 1979.   
King’s Head. Old English style pub with tile-hanging and half-timbered gables; by Shoebridge & Rising, 1899.  Dates from 1516 original demolished 1899
Underground toilets 1920-1950s also used as air raid shelter and demolished in the 1950s

Old Park Avenue
This is on the line of the drive to the house in Chase Park.
Drill Hall Sports Club. This was built in 1901 for the Enfield Town Company of the first volunteer battalion of the Middlesex Regiment.
Enfield Town Club. This private members club was founded in 1890 and in 1895 was enrolled into the Association of Conservative Clubs to which it is still affiliated.

Palace Gardens
This road is now completely obliterated by the shopping centre which is named after it.

River View
A footpath which called crosses the defunct loop of the New River twice over iron bridges

Sarnesfield Rad
Cyldon Works. This firm manufactured model stationary steam engines, 1947 -1951 by Sydney S Bird & his sons Cyril and Donald. They used non-ferrous metals, especially aluminium alloys, with very little steel. All the engines were methylated spirit-fired

Shirley Road
Shirley Hall, Chase Family Church Centre
St. Johns Ambulance

Silver Street
This is part of the drove road into London, lying between Baker Street and London Road.
Drinking Fountain. Installed in 1884 and now at the Junction with London Road and The Town. It has two bronze cherubs and had a lamp with a vertical gas burner, later replaced in 1901-1908 by a three-arm inverted burner lamp. It has a plaque saying “Erected by public subscription 1884”.There is a subsequent dedication to Henry Joshua Brown (1906 - 1983) Past President and Horticulturalist”.
36 Vicarage . This probably dates from the 13th and is still in its original position, with a walled garden.  The timber house was encased in brick in 1845 but still has two 16th wings. The between the garden and the churchyard was built by parishioners in 1800.
Civic Centre.  Built by Eric G. Houghton & Assocs.  The first phase was built 1957-61 with an upper floor projecting over the base, and the Council Chamber to the rear. In front is a pool created from a loop of the New River and a bronze sculpture of the Enfield Beast by R. Bentley Claughton. The second phase is the twelve-storey tower clad in stainless steel,
Enfield Grammar School, Lower School. This is in what was Enfield Court. The house has a late 17th core with a Georgian front. It was purchased by the school in 1824 and its former gardens provide the school with playing fields. The Enfield Loop of the New River passes through the playing fields,
43 Silver Cinema. Originally a drill hall this was built in 1882, it was converted into the Enfield Empire Cinema in 1910. By 1912, it was known as the Enfield Picture Theatre, and later that year it was re-named Cosy Cinema. In 1913 it was renovated and re-opened as the Silver Cinema. It was closed in 1918, and converted into a dance hall. It was then taken over by the Enfield Gazette newspaper for their composing room. They moved out before 1986, and it was demolished and is now offices
68 White Lodge.  Now a health centre. In the 18rh it was the home, of Whittacker of the Almanac.
New River. This flow under Silver Street and then runs alongside a track leading to the Civic Centre's private car park, Here it turns north and flows on three sides of the school playing field until it reaches Parsonage Gardens.
45 Church of England School of Industry. Built in 1876 red brick with stone dressings.

Sydney Road
Once called Slaughterhouse Lane
52 Tower Point. An eleven storey office block covering most of the eastern side of the road in the 1960s.  This is now residential.  As an office block it housed a number of public sector agencies – Eastern Gas, and the ground breaking computer consortium, LOLA.
Duke of Abercorn. Pub dating from the 1860s, now demolished.
St. Andrew's or Enfield National School dated from 1839. A boys' school building was opened in Sydney Road in 1879 and in 1926 a new junior and infants' school also moved here. The school has now moved again.
Gas Works, Some local people established a gas company and a gasworks had was built in Sydney Road by 1858.  In 1911, along with a works at Ponders End it was transferred to the Tottenham and Edmonton Gas Light and Coke Co.  The works in Sydney Road were still in use in 1908

The Town
Central area of Enfield since 1754 and previously called Enfield Green
1-3 Market Chambers. This is now the Santander Bank. It was one of the original Burtons Menswear stores with a Snooker Hall on the upper floors, and this survives.  The architect was probably Harry Wilson, the house architect for Burtons.
5 O’Neills. This pub was The George. There has been a pub here since the 16th when it was owned by St Leonards Church at Shoreditch.”  This is a rebuild of 1895 and it now claims to be ‘Irish’ since 1997. It has also been called The Goose and George recently.
Barclays Bank.  Dated 1897, by W. Gilbert Scott; I 1967 the world's first bank cash dispensing machine was installed here. First Automatic Teller Machine (ATM) and opened by Reg Varney.   There’s a plaque on it.
Greyhound Pub. 1364-1860s later called The Bank and subsequently Courthouse. It was demolished in 1897 and became the site of the present Barclay's Bank.
22 old Vestry offices. This is a single storey hexagonal building with a polygonal façade.   In the 19th used as a beadle’s offices, and became a police station and garage. It was built around 1800 or 1830 and contained two prison cells
26 Prezzo.  This is said to have been The Rummer Pub from 1698 and said to have been demolished 1859.  However also said to have been called the Coach House and the Railway Inn and later The Beaconsfield Hotel. It has a coach entry to access the rear of the building and a clock over the frontage in the shape of a beer barrel.

Windmill Hill
Magistrates Court. Built 1900 by H. T. Wakelam. It is Single-storeyed in red brick. In 1913 the brick wall and railings were cut back so that it is now on the corner of Old Park Avenue.
Railway Bridge 1910. The railway line from Grange Park to Stevenage via Cuffley and Hertford North was built as part of the 1898 Great Northern Railway Act designed to relieve congestion on the main railway line through Potters Bar. This Act specified various details of the bridges. This one had to have red brickwork, coping stones and be of a reasonably ornamental character.
The Old Wheatsheaf. It has a ground-floor frontage with curved bay windows and a brown glazed brick facing. The etched windows have representations of a wheatsheaf and Art Nouveau-style flowers. In one room is a fireplace with mirrored over mantel: the tiled strips with stylised tulips. The pub was probably called the Old Wheatsheaf to distinguish it from another Wheatsheaf in Baker Street..
Enfield Station Opened 1871 as the Great Northern Railway terminus on the line from Alexandra Palace.  However by 1887, 37 trains a day left Enfield, mainly for King's Cross, but also to Broad Street and until 1907, to Woolwich and Victoria. This was south of Windmill Hill, with an entrance west and uphill of the current station, opposite the present Chase Court Gardens. The main building in yellow stock brick. It closed in 1910. .  The new replacement station which was to be a through station was built downhill and to the west in order to avoid an awkward level crossing over Windmill Hill.   The original station site was used for goods. In 1940, it was reopened the new station was bombed. In 1970s the track was lifted and the buildings were eventually demolished following a fire. The site is now completely redeveloped with housing on Gladbeck Way.
Windmill Inn. Opened at the same time as the station. Demolished 1982
Enfield Chase Station.  Built in 1906  this lies between Gordon Hill and Grange Park on Great Northern Railway.  It replaced the 1871 terminus.  It had a ticket hall at street level with an Art Nouveau entrance porch, one island platform, and good facilities.  It was bombed in 1940.  Built on an embankment, of lightweight wooden construction.  The street level building is set back from the main road to allow a spacious 'pull-in' for taxis and private cars, together with a convenient 'bus stop just outside. The Embankment was planted decorated with plane trees as required by Enfield Urban District Council . In 1924 'Chase' was added to the name presumably to avoid confusion with the former Great Eastern establishment at the other end of town.
Goods yard which later became a centralised coal depot.  Now Gladbeck Way.
34 Job centre

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