Tuesday, 21 August 2018

Highbury




Albany Place
This was latterly used as an entrance to the council depot
Mission Hall. The Albany Mission was formerly a day school dating from 1840. It was then a branch mission and Sunday School of the Holloway Chapel. In 1961 it closed and the site was acquired by the Council to extend their Cleansing Depot
Methodist Chapel. The work of the Central Mission was transferred here in 1953 but this building was compulsorily purchased for slum clearance.

Arvon Road
Herb Garden. In 1985 residents of Arvon Road opened a herb
garden planted with English herbs and other plants.

Ashburton Grove
The road has now disappeared under the Emirates Stadium. Before the Second World War it appears to have been lined with housing and to have led to various railway goods and coal depots. It was later enveloped by the Islington Council depot.
Ashburton Grove goods station. Opened in 1876 and closed 1960.
London North East Railway, coal depot
Council Depot. This was rebuilt in 1937. It included a refuse destructor installed in the early 1890s.
Ashburton Triangle. This is the tip of the triangle now taken up by the Emirates Stadium.  This tip was set aside for a residential development built by Robert MacAlpine. There is also an enclosed landscaped communal garden and the Arsenal Museum.

Aubert Park
Named after Alexander Aubert a Swiss insurance broker and amateur astrologer who had an observatory at Deptford and commissioned another at Highbury House
Aubert Court Garden.  This garden area surrounding Aubert Court is part of an Islington council estate built 1946-53 by E. C. P. Monson.  The garden was the site of the Highbury College for Dissenters which stood here.
Highbury College of Dissenters. This moved here from Mile End. The buildings were on the grassed area on the north side of the road opposite Leigh Road. A cobbled carriage entrance crossed the pavement.  It was designed by John Davies, surveyor for Tower Hamlets 1839-1865 and was built around three sides of a square with an imposing portico. It was sold to the Church of England in 1849 that added more buildings in the 1860s and was known as St.John’s Hall. It was eventually burnt down in the 1940s. Two anti-aircraft guns were sited here in the Second World War
17 Hartfield. Plaque to physiologist, surgeon and anthropologist.

Battledean Road
4 Plaque by Islington Council to Charles Bowerman. Early 20th activist in the printing trade unions

Benwell Road
Part of an old route north continuing Hornsey Road, called Devil's Lane
11-13 Benwell Studios. Office block
15-21 Benwell House. Jamie Oliver corporate headquarters. Restaurant Group
National College of Rubber Technology. Courses in rubber technology started at the Northern Polytechnic in 1924. In 1945 a National College of Rubber Technology was founded here. A new building was constructed in Benwell Road designed to provide and in 1953 the college transferred there. Now the Metropolitan University it has become the London Metropolitan Polymer Centre
40 Montague Arms. There by 1874 this pub is now converted to housing.
55 Arsenal Hub. Base for ‘Arsenal in the Community’ providing sport and education sessions to local people. It has an astroturf pitch, and also classrooms, meeting space and the Arsenal Red Zone adult learning centre.
Post Office Sorting office. This is shown on the corner with Hornsey Road before the Second World War.
The Forster Board School was opened in 1889 by the School Board for London on the site of the Holloway Ragged School (which fronted on Hornsey Road).  In the 1950s it was re-named William Forster School and then closed in 1961. It was later used by the Shelburne School as an annexe and then as Shelburne Youth Centre. The building is still there but now fronts on to Hornsey Road, while there are buildings in front of the Benwell Road entrance, with the old school entrance gate retained as a feature.

Chillingworth Road
This was once called Victoria Road.
St. Mark’s Studios. This was originally the church of St.James the Apostle built in 1837 by Inwood & Clifton's. The tower was added in 1850. It was altered to become a parish hall after bombing in 1944. This was built inside the old church; the derelict roof remaining. The parish united with Saint Mary Magdalene's in 1954.and it thus became St, Mary Magdalene Community Hall. It was converted in 1980-2 by Pollard Thomas Edwards Associates as flats and studios – as School of Audio Engineering although many organisations are based there.
Ring Cross Primary School. School on site here c1955-c1977
4a Stoddarts. Made toy soldiers, etc. 1920s

Church Path
The path leads from the top of Highbury Place to Christ Church. a footpath prviouslsy ran across the 'Mother Field' from Highbury Corner to the old Manor House site and was a public footpath from the early 19th . It has railings on both sides and is lined with trees.

Corsica Street
A mews area for the posh houses in Highbury Place

Drayton Park `
This was once called Highbury Hill Park,
1 Collis Bird Withey. Bookbinders providing a service for small scale publishing – theses, etc.
2  Mission hall in the 19th and 19th
23 The Old Roman Catholic Church, founded in England in 1908, moved here from Aberdeen Road in in 1974 and opened a chapel here.
Highbury Chapel, Wesleyan Methodist was built in the Gothic style. It became part of the Wesleyan London Central Mission from the 1880s. In 1930 it was closed when the Central Hall was built.
Highbury Wesleyan School for Boys and Girls. In 1864 day schools were added to the Highbury chapel. They were demolished when the central hall was built on their site. On the corner with Horsell Road. The school became Drayton Park
Central Methodist Hall Islington. This was built in 1929 on the site of the Methodist schools to replace two older local Wesleyan Methodist churches. The first minister was Rev Donald Soper who developed the church and organised community facilities. It had a large two-tier auditorium seating 1,300.  In 1941 the church united with Archway Central Hall to form the London Mission North Circuit. It closed in 1953 because of maintenance costs and the building was let for industrial use.
30 German Methodist Mission. The Mission, was based here 1929-1971
Western Laundry.  This includes a big bock of buildings between the school and an original house at 32. A laundry had existed here, behind the houses, from at least 1900. It was taken over by National Sunlight and then became Cypressa, a Greek food importer.  The 1930s building included a chimney at the back north which has since been removed. The building has been divided into office and industrial units since the 1960s and was reported to have been demolished in 2006. A restaurant with the original laundry name is now occupying part of the building.
Drayton Park Primary School. This began in 1860 as the Highbury Wesleyan School at a site on the corner of Horsell Read. A new building was provided in 1866 for boys, girls and infants. It was a voluntary school in 1906 but taken over by the London County Council and renamed Drayton Park Council School by 1908. An extension was added in 1966. A nursery opened 1980 in part of infant accommodation.
Drayton Park Station. This was opened in 1904 and lies between Finsbury Park and Highbury and Islington on the Northern City Line.  It was opened by the Great Northern & City Railway to provide a route for their trains to Moorgate which proceeded in a deep tube tunnel constructed to main line dimensions.  It was however never fully connected at Finsbury Park. In 1913 the company was taken over by the Metropolitan Railway and in 1933 by the London Passenger Transport Board and became part of the Northern Line... Construction of the Victoria Line meant that the tunnels north of Drayton Park were used for that line and Drayton Park became a terminus for the line from Moorgate. In 1975 the line was transferred to British Rail and ramps built in the 1930s for the Northern Heights plan were used for tracks to connect the line Finsbury Park had main line trains ran on it from 1976 between Finsbury Park and Moorgate.
Railway. The Northern Heights plan was conceived in the 1930s for a railway to Elstree via Highgate. It included providing the unbuilt connection from Drayton Park to Finsbury Park. By 1939 Earthworks for two extra lines to Finsbury Park Station and for new bridges were completed but the Second World War put an end to this and the new line was never completed.
Depot. Remnants of this can be seen to the left of the platform the track having been sold to a heritage railway. It was opened in 1904 by the Great Northern & City Railway for electric traction workshops. Closed in 1985. Maps from the later 19th show an ‘electric light works’ and a ’gas works’ on site.
52d Islington Learning Disabilities Partnership. This is in what was built as a Neighbourhood Centre, one of four local centres to house decentralized day-to-day services. Planned in 1982 it was built by Chris Purslow, Borough Architect. 
66 Drayton Arms. Old fashioned pub
75 Emirates Stadium. This is built on the site of Islington Borough rubbish disposal depot and is a football ground with a capacity of nearly 60,000.In 1997. Arsenal football club bought the site and work began on the ground in 2004. Emirates sponsored it. The ground is also used for non-football events.  It includes a plaque “The Spirit of Highbury", to past football players and eight murals which encircles the stadium and which depicts other players. The scheme also involves numerous commercial and other buildings around the periphery of this large site, running along the edge of what was the railway goods and coal depot
100 -112 Flats in what was the Express Dairy bakery which dated from the late 19th with extensive alterations in 1912 and later.

Fieldway Crescent
Islington Central Library. Built 1905-7 by Henry T. Hare and is a Carnegie endowment.  It has a stone front with statues of Spenser and Bacon. The frieze says 'Islington Central Library' with the date '19 AD 06' over the porch and three ladies' heads below the frieze by Schenk. There is a red brick wing behind plus a 1970s addition with a new main entrance.  It was the first purpose built open-access library. This is the library which exhibited the books which Joe Orton defaced, and for which he was sent to prison.

George’s Road
2 The first Wesleyan chapel in Lower Holloway was built in the garden here in 1837. In 1857 this closed and leased to the Quakers.
St James Works. Favourite Toys. This was a location for Dr.Who.  Now in other use.

Hamilton Park
Hamilton Lane and Royal Mail Sorting Office. This has recently been closed and sold. The sorting office dated from the 1960s but replaced an older building.

Highbury Crescent
This row of large villas formed the boundary of the Fields.  It was designed by James Wagstaffe, and opened in 1846.  The southern section of the road is in the square to the south.

Highbury Fields
This square covers only the northern half of The Fields. This is now the largest piece of open ground to survive in Islington, a triangular-shaped public park on sloping land. Rustic the fields lay alongside the main road from the North and were thus a regular stopping place for cattle to graze on the way to Smithfield. It was also used by local dairy farmers. In the 19th it was used as allotments. In the 1860s 25 acres of open land were purchased from John Dawes the freeholder by Islington Vestry and opened to the public. It became a public park in 1885 and 1891.  In 1885 it was purchased for £60,000, half paid by Islington vestry and the other half by Metropolitan Board of Works.  It was subsequently managed by London .County .Council.  Two and a half mew acres were acquired in 1891 on the demolition of Highbury Grove mansion.
Canonbury Curve. This railway tunnel runs under the fields, built in 1873 by the Great Northern Railway tunnel but now includes the Victoria Line tunnel. In curve was originally built to connecting the Great Northern Railway suburban system with Broad Street.

Highbury Grove
This is a medieval road to Highbury Manor House.
Highbury Grove School – this is described in the square to the east
Ladbroke House.  This block was  formerly used by A.C. Cossor Ltd, Here they are said to have made the first cathode ray tubes in 1902 and did work for Marconi. In 1918 they moved to Aberdeen Works (described in the post to the east). It was later occupied by the North London Polytechnic, as the North London Science centre and subsequently London Metropolitan University.  It has now been purchased by the government for a film studies based ‘Free’ school.
56a originally a brick garage dating from 1900 with corrugated iron roof this was a purpose built balloon factory - G.G.Spencer and sons, pioneering aeronauts. The works was visited by Count Ferdinand von Zeppelin. Herbert Spencer is said to have made 1250 balloon ascents and 250 parachute descents. He claimed the first parachute descent from a balloon in 1899 and made a drop of 15 000 feet in 1909.
155 Christ Church.  Christ Church cost £6000 and was dedicated in 1848.  Local landowner Henry Dawes donated the site and the architect was Thomas Allom of Balham. He made the most of his corner island site with an asymmetrically placed spire to give a profile from every viewpoint. It was restored in 1980.
Vicarage. This fronts onto the road at the southeast side of the church. Also in Kentish rag

Highbury Hill
'Dreary neighbourhood’ is a quotation from the 1940s.  Many of the sites on the Highbury Hill estate were developed as purpose-built blocks of flats
Clock Tower. This is in cast iron and erected for Queen Victoria's Jubilee Diamond Jubilee.  An inscription cast into the door of the plinth says: 'Presented to the Islington Vestry by Alfred Hutchinson in celebration of the sixtieth anniversary of the reign of her most Gracious Majesty Queen Victoria 1897
Highbury Fields School. The school is the result of the joining of Highbury Hill High School and Shelburne High School in 1981. Before this it was Highbury Hill High School which was founded in 1844 by the Home and Colonial Society as one of their Model School in the Grays Inn Road.  From 1863, it was a girls school and was renamed “The Mayo School” after a founding member, Elizabeth Mayo. In 1894 the School moved from to Highbury Hill House and became Highbury Hill High School for Girls. Management was later handed over to London County Council who built a brand new school here in 1928 in classical brick with a hipped roof. A later extension was by Stirling and Gowan in a brick and glass style of the 1960s. In 1976 it became London’s first ever mini-comprehensive along with local boy’s school, Highbury Grove. There have been further building extensions since
Highbury Hill House. This was built in 1719 by Daniel Asher Alexander for Dr. William Saunders, FRS an expert on lier disease. It wad demolished for the school
Tawney Court. This is the site of Highbury Hill Baptist Church. The church originated in 1862 but was disused by 1866.  Another group formed in 1871 and a Chapel was built 1870-1 and registered by Particular Baptists. Vestries and classrooms were added by 1901.  It was damaged by 1952 and demolished in 1959.

Highbury Park
This runs between Highbury Grove and Blackstock Road. Some of the area it runs through now seems to be called Highbury Barn. The frontage to Highbury Park, then called Cream Hall Road, had five pairs of villas by Cubitt, each with gardens extending to stables.  The owner of Highbury House sold off for building a strip of parkland along the frontage of this development. The result is the row of 20 houses on a service road separated from the carriageway by a row of horse chestnut and railing. This service road stands on earth excavated from the foundations of the terrace and the pavement is supported by brick vaults with a varied collection of cast iron coal hole covers to the cellars below. 
26 Highbury Barn Tavern.  This originated in the barn of Highbury Manor where visitors could buy drinks. A wall plaque has gone but it recorded the notorious pleasure ground which resulted. in the early 18th it was a tea garden with cakes and ale and country recreations bit it became a venue for the local roughs as a tavern on the site, with an entrance in Kelross Road and a brewery on the premises.. From 1861 it included a music hall and theatre, and with fireworks and acrobats.  Dancing continued far into the night along with prostitution and disturbance. Eventually locals got the licence revoked in 1871.  It later continued as a local pub and now is an Islington type pub with a posh restaurant and considerable pretensions.
54 & 56 these are the remaining Cubitt villas with a date stone of 1883 on the facades.
Shopping parade. These shops were purpose built soon after the closure of Highbury Barn pleasure gardens in 1871.  Many of the trades represented are the same ones as were present then.
Loxford House. This has been converted to flats along with a development behind. The house dates from the mid 19th and was built by the Dent family, glove makers. Since 1925 it was used by the National Children's Home as headquarters and staff training centre.  They were founded near Waterloo in Lambeth in 1869 and grew to have over 50 residential homes, hostels and schools. Loxford House was refaced and extended by Alan Brace. They were latterly called Action for Children and moved to Watford in 2008.  There were many ancillary buildings to the rear 
St.Joan of Arc.  In 1918 there was a Carmelite Chapel here. IN 1920, a temporary church was built in Kelross Road. It is thought to be the first church in the world dedicated to St Joan of Arc. Many Catholics moved to the area in the 1940’s and 50’s.  Plans for a new church and school on the site of the Carmelite chapel were drawn up in 1959. The new church Opened in 1962. The architect was Stanley Kerr Bate. The statue of St Joan of Arc is by Arthur Fleishmann using Perspex to convey St Joan in armour
St.Joan of Arc Primary School. This is a voluntary aided catholic primary school managed by the Westminster diocese

Highbury Place
Highbury Place. This was developed by landowner John Dawes. The speculator was London builder John Spiller who designed it from 1774. The southern section of the road is in the square to the south
24/25 coach-houses which originally separated the terraces. This pair was given extra space. 
25 London County Council plaque.    From 1845-54 this was the home of Rt. Hon. Joseph Chamberlain 1836-1914, Colonial Secretary and father of Sir Austen and Neville Chamberlain. 
Providence Baptist chapel. In 1850 a group of eight met at "Providence Baptist Chapel" and their first building was completed in 1857 in Providence Place, off Upper Street. In 1885 the church began looking for a new home close to their mission in Avenell Road. They moved to Highbury Place and the foundation stones were laid in 1887, it was a Red brick building by C.J. Bentley, financed by money from the Providence chapel in Fore Street.  Post war numbers fell and in 1987 the church was renamed as Highbury Baptist Church.  The building, was gradually decaying; so, in 1997, a new building was planned and in 2001 the church vacated the old building, and demolition began. The new building opened in 2002.

Highbury Terrace
Highbury Terrace.  Built 1789-94 and 1817 it was the first addition to Highbury fields after completion of Highbury Place .ad built to the north to preserve the open aspect.
1 From 1796 until 1806 this was the home of Francis Ronalds, pioneer of the electric telegraph.  He is said to have experimented with a cable linking the rear coach-house. 
12  home of Capt. Joseph Huddart FRS. He was a hydrographer and an elder brethren of Trinity House. He had a cable works in Limehouse with the earliest gas works in London attached. Here he had a small observatory with a telescope in his attic from which height he could view the Thames and Docks.  He is said to have a ships cabin inside the house.
18 this was once The Elizabeth Fry Home for girls.

Highbury Terrace Mews
Back road with a varied mix of housing. This includes several modernist houses built by architects as their own homes.

Holloway Road
Holloway means hollow way, guarded by a hermit to make a causeway, took gravel from the top of Highgate Hill to make a pond
72 North London Buddhist Centre. This opened to the public in 2003. It has two shrine rooms, two study / course rooms and a large reception area with bookshop and café. It started by members of the Triratna Buddhist Order which was founded by Sangharakshita in 1967 and it is part of an international network. The house itself dates from 1812 and was originally 2 Aston Place built by sculptor John Atkinson.
80 Richmond Fellowship. Head office of this mental health charity, founded in the 1960s in Richmond with a concept of recovery and care.
88-90 Jilton Manufacturing. 1950s made glass and diamond cutting equipment and drills.
95-101 Pugh Brothers. ‘Cycle experts” 1930s
97-99 Wig and Gown pub. Closed 2013
100. Lord Nelson Pub. This dates from 1851 at what was then 18 Aston Place. Also called recently Horatia and before that The Ashburton. There is said to be a tiled picture of Nelson by the front door. Possibly a bit rough.  In the 1970s it was a music pub with Dr.Feelgood!
135 Salvation Army Temperance Hall. Closed 1886
152 The Holloway Mosque
168 Holloway Swimming Baths. Present in the 1870-90s. They were also used for boxing matches as well as water polo and lifesaving demonstrations. It had two pools and 34 private bathrooms.
160 Western Laundry
.  This appears to have occupied this site for most of the 20th and clearly relates to the firm with a large site in Drayton Park
Ring Cross. This is said to have been a hamlet at the junction with Liverpool Road first mentioned in 1694. In 1717 when a turnpike was set up under the 1717 Act, a gate stood here. It is said to have been the site of executions,
The high level interceptory sewer crosses under the road at Drayton Park
166- 170 Thomas Handisyde confectionary manufacture and wholesalers. Handisyde had been sugar bakers in Wapping in the 18th making sweets with ‘secret messages’ inside them.
188 The Old Pied Bull. Pub, now demolished.
194-196 Century Cinema. This Opened as the Holloway Grand Pictures in 1913, designed by architect George D. Duckworth. It was independent until 1935 when it became the Regent Cinema under Ben Jay. In 1950 it was re-named Century Cinema and in 1955 it was purchased by the Essoldo Circuit. It closed in 1961 having been subject to a Compulsory Purchase Order and was demolished. An extension to the Polytechnic College of North London was built on the site.
London Metropolitan University. This dates from 2002 when London Guildhall University, based in the City and Whitechapel merged with the University of North London. The Holloway Road site was set up by the Northern Polytechnic Institute in 1896, merging in 1971 with the North Western Polytechnic to become the Polytechnic of North London. This is a very large campus with many buildings of varying ages and it is planned to bring more of the Guildhall University departments to Holloway Road.
203 Victoria Tavern. This is now a bar called Phibbers.
214 Coach and Horses.  Pub now demolished
258-262 Harpers Novelty Toy Co. made jigsaws 1920s
262 Sunrise Speciality Co. made washing machines, 1920s
266  Rutherfords. In the 1940s they made ‘high class’ handbags.
263-273 Jelks furniture works. While making and selling furniture of all sorts Jelks specialised in billiard and snooker tables.

Hornsey Road
Hornsey Ragged School. Later William Forster School/ Shelbourne School. This began in 1825 as a community Mission who established the Holloway Free and Ragged School in 1846 in Hornsey Road. This was on the current Hornsey Road site with a girls department across the road to the north. They educated deprived local children. In 1872, it was taken over by the London School Board and they built a new school. It was called The William Forster School after the philanthropist. It was later merged with an elementary school then in Shelburne Road and it was merged with the William Forster School. In 1958, it became the Shelburne High School for Girls.  In 1981 it was merged with Highbury fields School. The building was later used as a youth centre. It now appears to be flats.
An engineering works and a dry cleaning works are shown alongside the railway opposite the school in the 1950s.

Horsell Road
Davy Electrical Construction. Firm based in the road around 1900

Leigh Road
The road follows the line of the rectangular moat that enclosed the medieval manor house.  Up until the 1950s the road also covered the road now called Roseleigh Avenjue
Highbury House stood here on high ground on the site of Eton House flats. In 1271 Alicia de Barrow, gave it to the Priory of St John of Jerusalem and the Prior built Highbury manor as stone country lodging with a grange and barn. In 1381, Jack Straw is said to have led a group of 20,000 who destroyed the manor house. Jack Straw used the site as a headquarters and it then became known Jack Straw’s Castle. It became derelict. It was surrounded by a moat with its only entrance across a bridge from what we now call Highbury Park. Part of the moat was filled in y John Dawes who built the house here it in in 1781 in 74 acres of park. Alexander Aubert, the second owner, added an astronomical observatory and an ornamental tower to house the redundant clock from the old City church of St Peter-le-Poor, Broad Street. The mansion was sold in 1805 on Aubert's death to John Bentley. In 1888 it was used by the Zenana Missionary Society which worked to evangelise Indian women. From the 19th the site was gradually sold for development and the house with the exception of a plain wing, itself demolished in 1997, was demolished in 1939 and replaced by flats
Christ Church Hall. The site of this is now flats

Liverpool Road
489 Adam and Eve Pub. The pub closed in 2003 but has had various new names as a bar and/or restaurant.

Lowther Road
1 NHS Centre. This was built as a local authority  Neighbourhood Centre in 1982 designed by Chris Purslow, Borough Architect. 

Palmer Place
Central Methodist Church. Following the closure of the hall in Drayton Park other temporary premises were found. A new church was built in Palmers Place on the other side of Holloway Road and opened in 1962 as Islington Central Methodist Church.
15 This is currently printers but has in the past been an engineering works, and also been a base for charities.
Holloway and North Islington Dispensary. Islington Dispensary was founded in 1821 and based in Upper Street, and by the 1880s there were branches in Upper and Lower Holloway. This one was for the poor who were not on parish relief.

Queensland Road
Called Queens Road until 1872.  The road has now been completely changed by the Emirates Stadium – everything demolished and new housing put up.
1 Queen's Arms. Demolished
7 Volunteer. This pub was latterly called The Favourite. It was demolished in 2003 for the Emirates Stadium.
Queensland Multi Media Arts Centre. Community arts centre oriented towards children now closed and demolished.
44-46 Alliance Spring Co Ltd, they make springs. The company led a court action against compulsory purchase for the Emirates stadium.  The building has now been demolished
58-80 Remploy factory. Opened in 1963 to replace the company’s original Holloway premises in Ashbrook Road. Remploy Ltd was set up by the Government in 1945 to help disabled people into employment. Closed and demolished.
Holloway Royal Mail Delivery Office. Demolished.
82-90 Lithosphere. Printers. Building now demolished.
99 Middleton Maintenance Group. The building has been demolished. The Compamia is now Midlands based as Trios Services
P & J Arnold, Aldersgate Works. In 1893 they exhibited in Chicago “Writing and copying inks; mucilage gums, sealing waxes”. They also made carbon paper. The predecessors to P. & J. Arnold were in business as manufacturing and pharmaceutical chemists in the Barbican, London, in 1724. In 1815 they moved to Aldersgate Street, on the site of the Half Moon Inn, roofing in the courtyard as ‘the Ink House’ . They went on to make Typewriter Ribbons, Wax Stencils for Roneos and Cyclostyles. (Address otherwise given as Benwell Road)
Globe Works. Barns & Son 1907. Made perforated metals.
North London Oil Refinery. 1870s W. Young – soda ash, naphthalene, washing blue
St. Barnabas Church Mission hall. Demolished.
Holloway Collar Company. This firm was founded using French technology to make the first celluloid collars, but based on the British invention, Xylonite. (Address otherwise given as Benwell Road)  
 
Ronalds Road
70 Highbury Crescent Rooms. Offices built in 1929 probably for the Oddfellows about whom there is a plaque inside.
11 Clarendon Buildings, Offices
1-9 former Salvation Army Citadel.  Opened 1861 closed 1968
71 Highbury Roundhouse, bottleworks building. This was the Foothill Road Glassworks –aka Bellchambers Glass Bottle Co and also Belmont Glass Bottle Works. The building has severe structural problems and the community group which has used it since 1974 has moved. They run facilities for all ages, although initially a youth scheme.

Whistler Street
Laundry. Now demolished and replaced

Sources
AIM National archive. Web site
Angry of Islington. Web site
Arsenal Hub. Web site
Cinema Treasures. Web site
Closed Pubs. Web site
Clunn. The Face of London
Cosh. Squares of Islington
Day. London Underground
Drayton Park Primary School. Web site
Field. London Place Names
Glass Making in London. Web site
GLIAS Newsletter
Grace’s Guide. Web site
Highbury Fields School. Web site
Historic England. Web site
Hounsell. London’s Rubbish
London Borough of Islington.  Web site
London Encyclopaedia
London Gardens Online. Web site
London Railway record
McCarthy. London North of the Thames
Manchester History. Web site
Nature Conservation in Islington
North London Buddhist Centre. Web site

Northern wastes,
Pevsner& Cherry.  London North
Pub History. Web site.
Richmond Fellowship. Web site
Smythe. Citywildspace,
Sugden. History of Highbury
Summerson, Georgian London
Willats. Streets of Islington

Tuesday, 14 August 2018

Dollis Hill




Anson Road
162 Gladstone Youth and Community Centre. Offers various activities including sports, nursery Judo, Irish dancing, weightwatchers, gym, Quran class, church, aerobic
156 St Gabriel’s Vicarage
Burnley Road
Houses built around 1908 developed by J C Hill & Co of Archway with a down payment of £10
76 art deco garage, likely to go into retail use.
Chapter Road
Dollis Hill Station.  Opened in 1909 this lies between Neasden and Willesden Green stations on the Jubilee Line. It was built by the Metropolitan Railway. In 1931 it was renamed ‘Dollis Hill and Gladstone Park’; in 1933 it was renamed ‘Dollis Hill’. In 1939 it was for rebuilt for Bakerloo Line services with “Modern" platform buildings when the London Passenger Transport Board opened a new section of twin tube tunnels between Baker Street and Finchley Road creating a branch to Stanmore. The Metropolitan Line service then closed.  In 1979 became a Jubilee Line station. Great Central Trains were not allowed to stop here and there was no platform – the lines go straight through.  In 1995 enamel panels by Amanda Duncan were put in the subway between the exits. They show maps of Dollis Hill area from the 16th to the 20th century, plus interpretations of classical star maps.
387 Stanhope Works. This was Stanhope Engineering which became Stanhope-Seta Ltd, from 1939 to 1945, manufacturing special equipment for teaching aircrew, radar operators & gunners the technique of target finding. The company now makes laboratory instruments for quality control of fuels, chemicals & materials and is based in Chertsey
387 Showplan. This company dealt with public address systems
387 The site is now blocks of flats

Cooper Road
Dudden Hill School. Built 1897 probably by Middlesex County Council.  It appears to have been a mixed Secondary school becoming a county school. Later used as an annexe to the College of Technology, it is now flats. In the Second World War this was to be used for Parliament should Westminster be destroyed
Cornmow Drive
This is the site of Dudding Hill Station and a large associated coal depot. Dudding Hill railway station was a station in Neasden, London NW2 on the Dudding Hill Line. It opened in 1875 by the Midland Railway, as "Dudding Hill, for Willesden & Neasden".[1] It closed in 1902. The station building survived into the 1980s, when the land was used for housing. An entrance to the depot and later buildings on the site is marked by granite setts in the pavement at the junction with Aberdeen Road,

Cullingworth Road
15 St Francis of Assisi. Built as a London Diocesan Mission church in 1911 with the; parish formed in 1934. Ig is a buff brick building with a short central tower by J. H. Gibbons. This is now a Polish Catholic Church served by Polish Jesuits.
Dudding Hill Line
The Dudding Hill Line or Loop passes diagonally across this square. It runs for 4 miles between Acton and Cricklewood. It has no stations and is not electrified. It was opened in 1868 as a goods line by the Midland and South Western Junction Railway, connected their Main Line and the Cricklewood goods yard, to North and South Western junction Railway at Acton Wells. It now handles a dozen trains a day mainly carrying aggregates and household waste.  In the Second World War it was used for troop carrying.
Dudding Hill Junction. The line divides just north of Park Side with one line going to Cricklewood Sidings and one to Brent sidings. It includes a signal box still apparently in use controlling semaphore signals
Parkside platelayers hut
Gladstone Park
The Park evolved from the Dollis Hill Estate and become a public park in 1901. Originally it was named Dollis Hill Park, but decided to name the park after William Gladstone, the former Liberal Prime Minister because of his associations with it. Between 1868 and 1874, he was a frequent visitor of the Earl and Countess of Aberdeen who lived at Dollis Hill House. It was laid out by Oliver Claude Robson, the District Council Surveyor. Including fencing, a playground, and sports pavilions, water supply, and roadways. The old farm ponds on the estate were filled in and some later became children's paddling pools. The original parkland, on rising ground kept its planting of oaks, with one or two old thorns but the inception of the park included plane-lined walks and the perimeter is planted with limes and planes. In the Second World War it was the site of gun emplacements. A bandstand has now gone
Bathing pond. This opened in 1903 'a large kidney shaped pool with a 75ft straight stretch'. It was open until the 1980s but later became the site of a bowling green.
Dollis Hill House.  This was a farmhouse built in 1825 on the northern boundary of what is now Gladstone Park. In 1881 it was the home of Lord Aberdeen and Prime Minister Gladstone stayed. Later Newspaper proprietor Hugh Gilzean-Reid and author Mark Twain was a guest. The house was opened to the public in 1909 and used as a hospital in the Great War as the Dollis Hill House Auxiliary Hospital. In the Second World War the War Cabinet met there. In the 1970s I was used to train catering students and closed in 1989.  It was damaged by fire in 1995, 1996 and 2011 and was then derelict. Funding to support the renovation costs was offered and then withdrawn. When this failed, the Council demolished it.
Stables Gallery and Art Centre.  1820 stable block used for Dollis Hill House. This is now have become an Arts Centre and Gallery an includes a cafe.
Walled flower garden the former fruit and vegetable garden attached to the house became into an Old English garden, which was to become one of the park's star attractions. It included a sundial, given by Cricklewood & District Improvements Association in 1907, at the its centre
Children’s Playground called Fort Gladstone
Holocaust memorial. This is in the north-west part of the park and is by Kotis, installed around 1968.
Wildlife area
Griffin Close
Built on what appear to be rail sidings and a cable depot. The estate is on a rectangular piece of land raised up to the level of the railway and held by a massive brick retaining wall in Park Avenue
Kendal Road
Metal foot bridge over Dudding Hill rail line
Houses once stood along the road on the northern, park, side. These appear to have been removed in the 1960s to leave the boundary open to the park.
Olive Road
Cricklewood Library opened here in 1929. This building has now been demolished and a replacement planned.

Park Side
Avigdor Hirsh Torah Termimah Primary School. This is a single form entry, orthodox Jewish maintained Voluntary Aided boys’ primary school. It is named In memory of Avigdor Hirsch.  "Torah Temimah" means "perfect Torah" in Hebrew and the name is taken from Psalms 19:8. Having had a number of premises in 1996 the school moved to permanent accommodation in what was formerly the Dollis Hill Synagogue, which the school purchased from the United Synagogue in 1995. Six classrooms were built in the ground floor main sanctuary area, plus offices and an additional floor added across the whole of the main sanctuary area. This was divided to form two further classrooms, a school hall, and smaller teaching and storage areas.
Dollis Hill Synagogue. An organised Jewish community was formally constituted locally in 1929, and, services were held in temporary rented rooms. A Dollis Hill Hebrew Congregation was formed in 1933 and affiliated to the United Synagogue. They leased surplus railway land from the London, Midland and Scottish Railway Company in 1933 and later bought the freehold. The current synagogue building was commissioned from Sir Owen Williams. The foundation stone was laid in 1937. Reinforced Concrete was used cast in situ behind a cork lining left exposed as the internal wall finish. Owen created a series of vertical planes, zig-zagged to enclose the hall, with folded planes for its roof. The hall is the centerpiece of the building and it has three bays delineated by the folded planes. The concrete is thickened at the folds, to carry cantilevered galleries. On the exterior hexagonal windows enclose the shape of the Star of David; and other windows echo of the form of the traditional Jewish seven-branched candelabrum they ae stained glass and are themed around the months and festivals of the Jewish year and the Twelve Tribes of Israel. It was the first building in Britain built entirely with pre-stressed concrete. It was not liked and was extensively modernised and rededicated in 1956. An original community hall, used as the congregation's first permanent home from 1932 or 1933 was demolished in 1996.
Sherrick Green Road
Gladstone Park Primary School. This opened in 1914 as temporary council school and reopened 1915 as a permanent school. . It is now run by some sort of trust.
William Gladstone Open Space
The southern half of this playing field is covered in this square. The area was once allotments.
Sources
Avigdor Hirsh Torah Termimah Primary School. Web site
British History Online. Willesden. Web site
Day London Underground
Field. Place names
Fortifications database. Web site
Friends of Gladstone Park. Web site
GLIAS Newsletter
London Borough of Brent, Web site
London Gardens On line. Web sire
London Railway Record
Lost Hospitals of London. Web site
Middlesex Churches.
Middlesex County Council. History of Middlesex
Pastscape.  Web site
SETA Web site
Stevenson. Middlesex
Walford. Village London

Monday, 13 August 2018

Cyprus and Gallions


Post to the west Royal Albert
Post to the north Beckton
Post to the east Gallions
Post to the south North Woolwich



Albert Island
This appears to be the land which lies between the Royal Albert Dock and the River – and the two entrances to the docks – one to the Royal Albert and one to the George V.  Anyway it is about to be regenerated!

Basin Way
Blocks of flats built on what were warehouses and railway lines.

Cyprus Place
Cyprus originated as a housing estate between Beckton and North Woolwich built from 1881. Its street names commemorate places in the news thus Cyprus Place. Cyprus, as the estate was called, was squalid development because of its lack of main drainage. Following bombing housing was replaced by pre-fabs. The area was later rebuilt.
40 The Ferndale. This is now a general store following conversion and a row with the planners. The pub dated from the 1880s and other shops stood alongside it.
Trees and grass now lie between the road and the Docklands Light Railway Line

Dockland Street
This was previously Dock Street which was straight. The right hand turn dates from the 1960s.
North Woolwich Secondary School. Opened in 1891 and closed in 1962. This school was in Kent and administered by Woolwich Council.

Docklands Light Railway
There are two Docklands Light Railway lines on this square.
The line which runs alongside Hartman Road to George V Station is part of the Woolwich Arsenal extension to the railway, opened in 2005.
The line which runs parallel to Royal Albert Way is on the Beckton Extension opened in 1994.  It is on the line of the Great Eastern Railway to Gallions.

Felixstowe Court
New housing on the site of the Harland and Woolfe Ship Repair yard.  The main part of the yard is in the square to the south

Gallions Road
This road has now been cut off from access to Woolwich Manor Way. It dates from the building of the docks and ran between railway lines towards the river, including Gallions Station and Hotel.

Gallions Roundabout
Storm water pumping station. This was built 1975-8 by Mason, Pittendrigh & Partners, to drain the surface water from Beckton marshes before redevelopment with housing and industry. It has a brick-clad steel superstructure with a precast pleated roof and a travelling crane. It is roughly circular and has electrically driven pumps, having a total capacity and is fully automatic.

King George V Dock
The King George V Dock was built as was part of the 1910 ‘improvements’. It was begun by Sir Frederick Palmer, the Port of London Authority's first Chief Engineer and completed by Sir Cyril Kirkpatrick.  The Contractors were S.Pearson & Sons, & Sir William Arrol & Co.  It was planned as one of two by the London and India Dock Co., in 1901 and the PLA took over the proposals in 1909. Only one of the docks was built. It has 64 acres of water and Concrete quay walls 2 miles long. It was opened in 1921 by King George V. On the north side were six transit sheds and on the south ‘dolphins’ - jetties parallel to the quay so that lighters could go between the ships and the quay. On the north side these sheds were built in pairs to provide warehouse space on the upper floor for tobacco. Each transit shed should have had its own approach road and three rail tracks behind but there were limitations of space. The whole north side and dry dock, were demolished for London City Airport
Dock Offices Building. Designed and built in 1931 by Sir Edwin Cooper in yellow brick with top-lighting.
Dockmaster's Office, by Sir Edwin Cooper. Tiny 1922-4.
Custom House Office.
Hydraulic plate girder swing bridge. This ran between Peninsula Road, Gate 15 and Woolwich Manor Way over the Adelaide Cutting, The Shaw Saville offices were nearby
Entrance. The depth and size of the entrance locks were suitable for the largest ships that came to London in the mid-20th. The Gallions Reach entrance accommodated the 35,655 ton Mauretania in 1939.  This entrance still functions.

Pier Road
5 Pier Parade. North Woolwich Library. In an old shop premises. Claims to be open.
George V station, This Docklands Light Railway Station lies between London City Airport and Woolwich Arsenal Stations. It opened in 2005 and until 2009, it served as a temporary terminus for the King George V branch of the DLR but the terminus is now Woolwich Arsenal. It is named after nearby King George V Dock.
St. John the Evangelist. This included a vicarage and boys and girls schools. It was don the corner with Woodman Street. The church opened in 1872 as a mission of St Mark, Victoria Docks. A separate parish was formed in 1877. It was burnt down during an air raid in 1940, and services were subsequently held in the former infants’ school hall. A new church, on a different site, was consecrated in 1968.

Royal Albert and Victoria Docks Cut
This is an open surface water drain with timber clad sloping walls which runs parallel and north of the north side of the docks. It discharges into both a pipe and a culvert which discharge into the Thames. It was divided in half by the DLR embankment,

Royal Albert Basin
This is the water area which lay between what were two original entrances to the dock and the dock itself.  It was opened in 1880 and had transit sheds on both sides of the dock.
Gallions Point Marina. This is in Royal Albert Basin and has been there since the 1980s

Royal Albert Dock
This square covers only the eastern end of the dock. The Dock was built in 1875-80 for the London and St Katharine Company with Alexander Rendel as engineer. It was intended as a ship canal running to the older Victoria Dock, with a quay along it where ships could berth.  To the west of the north quay, is an uninterrupted straight line of quay walls for over a mile. There were no warehouses but instead there were transit sheds and designed so that one shed would serve one berth. Cold stores were later

Royal Albert Way
The LDDC built roads through the Royal Docks to link to the A13 and the new Limehouse Link. This included a 1 mile dual carriageway was built along the north side of Royal Albert Dock from a new roundabout at the Gallions Pumping Station. For some of the length the DLR runs between the two carriageways. Roundabouts were built to serve development sites and site the DLR stations
Cyprus Station. This station is on the Beckton Extension of the Docklands Light Rahway lying between Beckton Park and Gallions Reach Station. The DLR runs in the middle of the road which as built with it at the same time. The road here has climbed to road level, but drops down for the Station which is beneath a roundabout in a cutting with pedestrian access at surface level under the elevated roadway.
Royal Docks Road
The LDDC built roads through the Royal Docks to link to the A13 and the new Limehouse Link. The first built, in 1986, was Royal Docks Road, running south from the A13 to a new roundabout at the Gallions Pumping Station.
Gallions Reach Station.  This station is on the Beckton Extension of the Docklands Light Railway lying between Cyprus and Beckton Stations.

Rymill Street
Oasis Academy. This secondary school was launched by the academy provider, Oasis, in conjunction with Newham council in 2014 with just 82 students.

University Way
University of East London. Docklands campus. This was the first new university campus; in London for fifty years. The university itself was created in 1992 from three technical colleges. The campus was rapidly built on a tight budget using recycled materials and is squeezed onto a narrow strip between the DLR Beckton line and the Albert Dock. Aerocraft land noisy alongside the seminar rooms.  Most of the campus consists of brightly coloured cylindrical blocks by Edward Cullinan. Phase one dates from 1997 for 2,400 students in eight departments, with accommodation for 384.  A wall of teaching buildings lies parallel to the dock, with coloured free-standing cylinders for residences. The west block has library, lecture theatre and administration, and the larger east block has studios and workshops for the art, design and engineering departments.
The Children’s Garden Early Years Centre. Landscaped educational garden built of untreated larch and recycled materials.

Woodman Street
Part of the street was once Elizabeth Street
Royal Oak Pub. A Truman’s pub built in 1872 with still extant Truman’s tiled signage.  The upper floors were lost in the Second World War bombing but it continued as a single storey pub.
Fight for Peace. International organisation providing young people with martial art training.
Woodman Community Centre. Local authority community centre with a small hall, kitchen and garden. It is managed by Beckton and Royal Docks Community Neighbourhood team.
The Storey Centre. Newham Pupil Referral Unit.
Storey Primary School. This school dated from 1911 and is now closed
Joinery. This was present in the 1960s
Gospel hall. Woodman Street mission hall, was a brick building from the late 19th'. It was registered for worship in 1952
Primitive Methodist church. This originated about 1867 when Services were held in a cottage, then in a shop, and later in an archway between two houses, ingeniously fitted up by the superintendent of the 8th London circuit. In 1880 a brick church was built on the corner with Storey Street. It was destroyed by bombing in the Second World War, and was not rebuilt.

Woolwich Manor Way
Was previously called Manor Way or East Ham Manor Way and was an old military road used by the Royal Arsenal as a road and to the north west was used as a store for old ordnance.  Old cannon etc. were used to repair the road.
Bascule lifting bridge over George V entrance. Built 192l but destroyed by a V2 in 1944 and rebuilt. It was replaced by LDDC in 1990 to a wider width by Taylor Woodrow Construction. However it has retained its original red brick parapets. It is named after the Olympic rower Sir Steve Redgrave and now continues over the entrance to the Albert Dock where there was previously a swing bridge over the entrance lock.
St.John’s Chapel. In this area and recorded in 1224.
Manor Road Station. This station was on the west side of East Ham Manor Way. It was totally demolished and 1887 it was resited on the east side of East Ham Manor Way.  (now Woolwich Manor Way)
Manor Way Station. This station dated from 1881 and was built by the London and St.Katharine’s Dock Company as Manor Way Station on the Gallions Bridge east of the road bridge.  It had two platforms, with a wooden street level building and access to the trains was via stairs roofed with corrugated iron. A footbridge linking the platforms was removed. In 1926 when the road was widened it was replaced by another plainer wooden building. In 1940 the station it was closed but the building remained there for another thirty years
Manor Way Signal Box. This was tucked away against the parapet on the north side of the street level building, but high enough to give the signalman a clear view of the track on the opposite side of the bridge.

Sources
Bird. Geography of the Port of London
British History on Line. East Ham. Web site
Bygone Kent 
Dockland
Docklands History Survey
Essex Review. Web site
Forgotten Stories. Web site.
LDDC Completion Booklet
London’s Business cavalcade 
London Railway Record
Newham walks,  
Old Plaistow,
PLA Magazine
Wikipedia. As appropriate

Saturday, 11 August 2018

Custom House



Post to the west Leamouth
Post to the south Silvertown



Bell Lane
LA Lounge This was The Ram which stood at the junction with North Woolwich Road. “Unique high-end sophisticated ethnic themed venue. It features various stunning atmospheres”. This was the Ram Tavern and still retains an art deco Truman’s exterior. Has had a variety of names recently.

Bradfield Road
Playground
Lyle Park Entrance – the park is in the square to the south.

Boxley Street
West Silvertown Board School. This opened in 1885 with an infants' department added later. It was extended until there were 1200 pupils in 1910. The school was wrecked in the 1917 Silvertown explosion but was repaired immediately.  In 1945 it became a school for juniors and infants and closed in 1962. As West Silvertown School. The address is also given as Evelyn Road – and a school appears to have continued here after 1962. It appears to be current site of Britannia Village School with an address in Westwood Street

Dock Road
1 Waterfront Studios. Business Centre built in 2003 under the Silvertown Way viaduct. This is on the site of what was the western entrance lock for Victoria Dock

Docklands Light Railway
There are two DLR lines on this square:
The line which runs alongside North Woolwich Road is part of the Woolwich Arsenal extension to the railway, opened in 2005.  It runs along the approximate route of the former Eastern Counties and Thames Junction Railway
The line which runs parallel to Royal Victoria Dock Road is on the Beckton Extension opened in 1994. It runs parallel to the North Woolwich Railway

Eastern Counties and Thames Junction Railway Plaistow
This opened in 1846 and connected the Royal Docks with the Eastern Counties Railway and initially ran to the south along what is now North Woolwich Road. When the Royal Victoria Dock opened in 1855 journey times were increased and the line was rerouted north of the dock.

Emirates Air Line
This is the cable car across the river to Victoria Dock from North Greenwich. It was built by Doppelmayr with sponsorship from the Emirates airline.  It opened in 2012 and is operated by Transport for London.

Evelyn Road
The original road ran parallel to the dock wall, and was used for housing later replaced by a 1960s scheme. London Docklands Development Corporation oversaw the demolition in the early 1990s of two 1960s local authority tower blocks with a shopping and community area and replaced with housing association and private housing named Britannia Village.
65 Britannia Village Hall. Provided as a community facility for Britannia Village. Replacement housing project from the 1990s.
Community Garden

Hanameel Street
53 Britannia Village Green. This green space is on the site of the two local authority tower blocks demolished because apparently they were ‘an eye sore’.

Knights Road
The road is named after Knights Soap Works which was in the east side of the road near the river (and thus in the square to the south)
Primrose Hall. This stood at the junction with North Woolwich Road. It has a hall which held 500 people. A library, billiards, bagatelle, coffee and smoking rooms plus hot and cold baths. It was built for the Primrose Library Society which included employees of John Knight & Sons. It was in December 1885. Since demolished.
Plaistow Wharf – the Tate and Lyle golden syrup works is now accessible from Knights Road.

Munday Road, 
Named after local ARP wardens killed during the Blitz.

North Woolwich Railway
This began in 1846, when the Eastern Counties and Thames Junction railway opened from Stratford to, Canning Town as part of a scheme promoted by George Parker Bidder. This was built to carry coal, initially from a wharf on Bow Cree, but was extended to North Woolwich the following year and from then took passengers.  It was shortly afterwards taken over by the Eastern Counties Railway.  At that time it ran along what is now North Woolwich Road. When the Victoria Dock opened in 1855 it meant the railway had to cross the dock entrance via a moveable bridge and this increased journey times. The line was therefore rerouted north of the dock parallel to what is now Victoria Dock Road. The older line, by then south of the dock, was kept in use and became known as the Silvertown tramway.  . As goods and passenger traffic changed it became little used but in the 1980s, following public sector investment, the line became part of the North London Line running from North Woolwich to Richmond.  It was eventually closed in 2006 and the line is to be used for the Crossrail service

North Woolwich Road
DLR viaduct. The viaduct runs parallel to the road and was opened in 2000. It is a double track line supported on concrete columns. It carries he Woolwich Arsenal extension on the approximate route of the former Eastern Counties and Thames Junction Railway
Victoria Dock Entrance.  This was the original entrance to Victoria Dock built 1850 – 1855 but which necessitated an awkward turn in the river. Only the lock area is in this square.  It had two lock gates and connecting channels.  The walls were concrete and brick walls in excess of 20 feet thick with the lock structures founded on brickwork with timber piles.  A new lock fitted in 1928. However when Silvertown Way was built ships could not use it and it was only used for barges. At the same time a Tidal Basin - the site on the dock side of Silvertown Way was incorporated into the main dock. The lock was rebuilt by Mowlems in 1967. It was subsequently back filled and used as a car park.  It is likely that the lock gates remained in-situ closed. The Silvertown Tunnel is planned to use the site.
Cable Car – one of the pylons for the car is on the site of the filled in Victoria Dock entrance
Swing bridge. The swing bridge took the railway across the lock entrance here.  It was a big obstruction to traffic.
Gibbs' Oil of Vitriol and Manure Works. This dated from the late 1850s. They burned crude sulphur and pyrites. The site became later Ohlendorff & Co., been founded in 1873, and remained a German company until the First World War, when it was reconstituted under British control. It was later Anglo Continental Guano Works Ltd. It was taken over in 1937 by Fisons Ltd. and closed in 1946.
Odam's Wharf. Part of this wharf is on this page. It was an Oil of Vitriol and chemical manure works dating from 1851.and one of the largest manure establishments in the area. Crude sulphur and pyrites were burned for the manufacture of oil of vitriol.  Materials used for manure making were shoddy, dry blood, guano, dry bones, coprolites, and mineral phosphates generally. In 1920 it became part of the neighbouring Anglo-Continental Guano Works Ltd.
Alexandra Wharf. British Oil and Cake Mills. Union Works. This was an animal feed manufacturer. They began in the 19th as crushers of oilseeds to produce vegetable oils for the human food industries and for soap manufacture and this was an oilseed crushing plant, owned by Unilever. It was established here in order to receive foreign seed but from the late 1960s these 'port mills' were closed. What is now The Silver building was built as their canteen and offices in 1964 by architects Munce & Kennedy.  The site was later owed by the Carlsberg-Tetley Brewing Company. It was known locally as Charrington's and the building carried Whitbread signage and was apparently used as a brewer’s distribution depot.
Clyde Wharf. In 1864, James Duncan, from Greenock   built Clyde Wharf Refinery as Duncan, Bell & Scott. It was bought by David Martineau in 1887, but later burnt down. It was the largest sugar refinery in London. Producing up to 2 thousand tons of sugar a week.
Clyde Wharf.  This was a soda works started by Brunner, Mond & Co 1894 to produce soda crystals from soda ash shipped from Cheshire. Caustic soda plant opened 1895. Later became ICI.
Silvertown Services Lighterage. Barge and tug repairs for Tate and Lyle from 1961. Silvertown Services Limited was opened by Tate and Lyle in 1938. Larger steam ships as Sugar Line Ltd. Ran from the Tate wharf further down river. From 1961 they operated from Clyde Wharf,
Hall's Wharf .Thomas Farmer & Co chemical manure manufacturers and sulphuric acid manufacture. Farmers originated in Kennington in the later 18th century.
Pinchin's Wharf. This was Pinchin Johnson  paint works founded in 1834 as a producer of oils and turpentine. They were later taken over by Courtaulds becoming eventually the Akzo Nobel Nippon paint works. Following another take over the site is now Nuplex Resins
Minerva Works. Oil paint and colour works in the 1950s, this is now part of the Nuplex site
Walmsley and Sons, malt roasters. This works was present in the mid 19th century.  The firm originated in Whitechapel and made malt suitable for Porter
Peruvian Wharf. In 1873 this was the Peruvian Guano Wharf, becoming Anglo-Continental Guano works in 1883, owned by the German company Ohlendorff & Co. They had the exclusive right of importing and selling guano shipped in from the Chilean government. In the Great War it was taken under British control. The works were taken over by Fisons Ltd in 1937 and closed down in 1946. The site was then taken over by Tate and Lyle. The site was to be developed as yet another housing site but is to become a PLA backed freight handling facility.
Plaistow Wharf. This appears to have been an oil storage depot before becoming Lyle’s golden syrup works in the 1880s. Golden syrup is still made there but the works is much reduced in size and is now entered from Knight’s Road.  Fronting onto North Woolwich Road was a handsome Portland stone-faced framed building built in 1946-50.   The firm's trademark of the lion killed by Samson surrounded by bees and, from Judges XIV, the answer to Samson's riddle "Out of the strong came forth sweetness' was displayed on it. It is since demolished but the relief trademark was displayed in a small garden area, which also appears to have gone.  Tate and Lyle badging is on the current building which is difficult to see now.
Barnwood Court. This consisted of two twenty-two-storey tower blocks of 1966.  Dunlop Point and Cranbrook Point which won a Civic Trust Design Award in 1968 for their architecture. They were linked by crescents of shops, community rooms etc. Designed for West Ham Council by Stillman & Eastwick-Field. In 1994 residents voted in a tenants’ ballot for their demolition. They were demolished in 1998 and Britannia Village is now on their site
West Silvertown station. West Silvertown is a Docklands Light Railway station lying between Canning Town and Pontoon Dock Stations. It opened in December 2005 and is on the Woolwich Arsenal branch. It is an elevated station positioned on the viaduct above the road.
Jubilee Tavern. This was a Taylor Walker house, present by 1896 and rebuilt in the 1960s. It was then at 9 Barnwood Court. It was demolished in 2005.
Baptist tabernacle. This was a branch church for the Baptist Central Mission at Stratford. It was built in 1903 to seat 250. It found it difficult to compete with the Docklands Settlement and local Methodists. It closed in 1939 and the site was sold.
291 West Silvertown Ambulance Station, NHS facility. A new station was opened in 2007.
Fire station. A fire station for the area was built in 1914. It was completely destroyed by the Silvertown explosion of January 1917. The current station is in the 1960s house style. It is now closed and has been flogged off.

Rayleigh Road
This is an extension of Mill Street built on the site of the Rank Empire Mill.
Rank’s Empire Mill. Flour mill opened in 1904. Rebuilt and enlarged with new concrete buildings in the 1930. Demolished and only chimney remains. There was a mill house to the south.
Chimney from Rank's Empire Mills, tall mid-C20 brick. Apparently saved because Prince Charles said so.
Millennium Mills. This was the Spillers Mill and is still extant. Built in the early 20th century, these roller-mills processed North American grain for white, refined flour at a price that undercut traditional millers. It was one of the largest automated flour mill complexes ever built in London. Some equipment dating from the 1950s remains which was installed by Henry Simon Ltd of Manchester, a pioneer of the roller milling process. The mill was built by Vernon’s flour millers, and producers of Millennium Flour. Work began in 1904 to designs by John Clarke who used the structural details of the Mouchel-Hennebique reinforced concrete system and positioned to interact with shipping in the Victoria Dock... It was damaged in the 1917 Silvertown explosion. In 1919 Vernon’s amalgamated with Spillers.  There was some reorganisation and rebuilding in the 1930s.  In 1946, Spillers Ltd asked L.G. Mouchel Ltd to organise reconstruction of the mill. A ‘New Mill and Warehouse’ was completed before 1953. This had a concrete structure, with brick infill panels in a ‘stripped classicism’ Art Deco style.  The name “Millennium Mills“ ran across the parapet in red tile. Spillers were then technically innovative and Millennium Mills was the largest totally mechanised, automatically controlled, pneumatic mill. There were three separate mills on the site – A and B flour Mills, and C Mill for animal feed. The mill closed in 1983 after the construction of the Tilbury grain terminal.  The building has been derelict for many years but is being redesigned to house small businesses.

Royal Victoria Dock
This square covers the western section of the dock.
Victoria Dock was opened by the Victoria Dock Company in 1855 and was the first dock in the port to take large steam ships and with main line railway connections The Company had been set up by the railway contractors, Samuel Morton Peto, Edward Ladd Betts and Thomas Brassey with the engineer G. P. Bidder. The site been bought at its agricultural value and 200 acres were allocated as pasture for a cattle trade which did not materialize. The dock was constructed with eight jetties projecting from the north quay, and a pontoon dock to the south. It was 1 mile long with 94 acres of water and hydraulic power, with machinery by W. G. Armstrong & Co. It was built with economic earth bank with warehouses added The owners had intended to sell it quickly and in 1864 the London and St Katharine Dock Co. bought it because of lack of space in the older docks. It was ¬¬renamed ‘Royal Victoria in’ 1880 when the Royal Albert Dock opened. The dock was extensively reconstructed from 1935 and the north quay rebuilt from 1937. It closed to commercial traffic in 1980 it is however still accessible to ships, but it is chiefly used for watersports. Most of the original warehouses have been demolished. It is dominated by the ExCeL Exhibition Centre. On the south side is Britannia Village.
Royal Victoria Exchange Sidings. This was sited between the British Rail and the Port of London Authority rail systems near Custom House station.  It handled around 60 trains a day. After being marshalled trains were hauled by P.L.A. locomotives to the appropriate quays of the docks.
North Quay. This is three quarters of a mile long, completed 1944 with projecting false quays instead of the finger jetties plus three-storey reinforced-concrete warehouses with transit facilities. The top two storeys of the buildings were for tobacco while the ground floors served as transit sheds. 
Cranes – some cranes are preserved along the dock edge. 6 by Stothert & Pitt are of the high pedestal type from 1953.  The steelwork has been renovated bur most of the mechanical and electrical equipment has been removed.
Z shed and berth. This was built in 1926 for chilled meat from larger vessels. It also handled some fresh fruit and butter and had integral rail access. The Royal Mail Lines offices were also here.
Electricity substation in stainless steel
Emirates Cable Car. Royal Docks Terminal. This is on the dock roughly on the Z Shed location. It is the smaller of the terminals and is built on a deck over dock water. It houses the electric motor which drives the Emirates Air Line
Good Hotel. This is a floating hotel moored off the wharf here founded by Marten Drese .its profits don’t go to the company’s shareholders, but they go back into the business, which offers training and jobs to long-term unemployed people in the local community. The floating platform came from Amsterdam.
This transit shed was used for meat, fruit, and general cargo from South America, usually from the Argentine. It served an unallocated berth
Paolozzi's Vulcan, the Roman god of fire and metalwork. Artwork on the quayside
Work No. 700 by Martin Creed artwork on the quayside
Ibis Hotel and Novotel. Along with offices, shops and blocks of flats these stand roughly on the site of F shed.
E this transit shed was rented to a Canadian line for exports and imports
D This transit shed was rented to a United States line for exports and imports;
Ex-Cel Centre. The square covers about half of the center which stands on the sire of some of the transit sheds and the Custom House. It opened in 2000 with 90,000 sq ft of exhibition space on a 100 acre site. It was built 1999-2000 by Moxley Jenner & Partners in three storeys with sixteen white tubular-steel roof hangers which allow for a column-free interior with the largest single-span roof in the UK.  There is also a first-floor lorryway that serves the entire building. On the ground-floor are services and the exhibition halls are on the first floor. There is a big pyramidal glass entrance with steps to the dockside.
Landed Sculpture. Also called The Dockers. This is on the west side of the Excel Centre. Sculptural group in Bronze by Les Johnson.
X, W, M. These warehouses were once on the waterside but following post war rebuilding stood behind DEF. They were originally tobacco warehouses. Their sites are now covered by roads.
Royal Victoria Square. Created by Paul Taylor with landscape architect EDAW. Japanese-style, geometric mix of hard and soft landscaping,
W Warehouse. When built this was nearest the dock and built in 1883 by the company engineer Robert Carr. It was in the style of the St Katharine Docks warehouses and stood over the dock edge with its wall on brick arches Restored by Feilden & Mawson as a block of flats. Act one time it was used as the Museum in Docklands store.
Custom House. This stood north of the dock and near the road. It was built 1920-4 and designed by Sir Edwin Cooper in a stripped classical style in red brick. It was also called the Dock Director’s Access Centre. It was originally intended by the PLA as office premises for letting to the Railway Company and importers. It was restored 1994-5 but demolished for Excel.
Nursery School and Creche. This was designed to serve the Excel centre by Walters & Cohen 2001-2. Three parallel timber-clad building with steel butterfly roofs.
K Warehouse.  This was a bonded store for tobacco built in 1859 by Bidder and the only remaining 19th warehouse.  It has timber floors on cast iron columns.  Inside are two storeys plus a loft, and a basement ventilated. Attached to it, but now demolished, was another warehouse of similar length.
K Annexe.  A pitched-roofed range with tall upper windows lighting a single large hall used for stacking tobacco casks. This was built in 1919 by the PLA in yellow stock brick. Restored for the LDDC by Rees Johns Bolter in 1994-5, as a public hall and exhibition space.
Millennium Bridge. Built 1997 by Lifschutz Davidson Bid Techniker this is a pedestrian bridge span the Dock from Britannia Village to ExCeL.  This was designed to be a transporter bridge.
The south side of the dock was remodelled after the Silvertown explosion of 1917. Private millers erected huge factories here, handling 114,000 tons of grain unloaded by suction.
3, 2, and 1 sheds.  These were used for exports and imports from America and the West Indies. The upper floors were used to store tobacco.
5 – 8. These were corrugated iron sheds used as warehouses but some distance from the water: 5 and 7 for general cargo, 6 defunct, and 8 for tidal models of the Thames.
Britannia Village.  This stretches along the south quay of the Royal Victoria Dock. It was designed by the LDDC as a contained community with shops, a village common, a village hall and a primary school. It is of course just a housing estate with homes for sale by Wimpey Homes. Proposals for community facilities still not finished. Building began, 1995-7 with Wimpey homes for which Tibbalds built conventional streets of terraced houses leading from a central crescent.
Pneumatic grain elevators. Four of these stood in the dock on dolphins by the flourmills. One has been re-erected as a feature. It is on the edge of the pontoon dock – the rest of which is in the square to the east. Built by the London Grain Elevator Co., 1898, but damaged in the Silvertown explosion of 1917. One was rebuilt in reinforced concrete in 1920 as D Silo. Bulk grain was lifted from ships and barges into the central cube and the two side towers, both by bucket and by suction and loaded through weighing machines.
Midland Railway Goods and Coal Depot. This lay at the western end of the dock until the rebuilding and removal of the Tidal Basin.  It is now roughly the site of the Crystal.
The Crystal. Siemens exhibition centre on the future of cities. It is also one of the world's most sustainable buildings and events venues. It was designed by Wilkinson Eyre, and includes an auditorium, conference facilities, meeting rooms and office spaces. It showcases state-of-the-art technologies to make buildings more efficient.
Consolidator #654321 art work bySterling Ruby. This is on the quayside outside the Crystal Building
Oiler Bar. Floating beer garden in an ex-Royal Navy refuelling barge.
Open Water Swimming Centre. With safety features and wet suit hire.
Wake Up Docklands. Wake Boarding Centre on the Western Beach – this is the area at the far western end of the dock previously the site of a warehouse
Sandy Beach – at the western end of the dock
SS Robin. Robin is a steam coaster, designed for carrying bulk and general cargoes in coastal waters, and the oldest complete example in the world. She was built in Orchard Yard, Bow Creek in 1890. In 1974 she was purchased for restoration as Robin and was moored for many years in the West India Dock. In 2011 was renovated in Lowestoft and placed on a pontoon. She is moored here with the SS Robin museum, theatre and educational centre.
Lightship LV 93.  This vessel was ordered by Trinity House, and launched in 1938. In the Second World War she was a mine watching vessel in the River Thames and then in 1947 went to the East Goodwin station and in 1954 to Galloper station. She was later automated and converted to solar power. She was later at Inner Dowsing station, Sunk station and at Foxtrot-3. She was sold in 2004 and converted it into a photographic studio and location.

Sandstone Lane
New road laid on the site of railway lines and running at the back of the Excel Centre.

Seagull Lane
New road laid on the site of railway lines. It also follows electrical transmission lines and pylons running along the back of blocks of flats. The pylons predate the ‘regeneration’.

Silvertown Tramway
This was the original line of the North Woolwich Railway. When the Victoria Dock was built in the 1850s the proposed entrance cut across the existing railway and so the North Woolwich branch was diverted to the north side of the dock. The original line was kept and provided a rail connection riverside industries. It was called the Silvertown Tramway.

Silvertown Way
The final stretch of the road is in this square but does not include any of the viaducts. It was Britain’s first flyover, constructed in 1934. It was billed as 'A Road to the Empire', and opened by the then Minister of Transport, Mr. Leslie Hore-Belisha. Factory owners and traders had been pressing for improvements but it was not until 1929 that the Dock Approaches (Improvement) Act was passed. The consulting engineers were Messrs Rendel, Palmer and Tritton.

Tidal Basin Road
The tidal basin was part of the original western entrance to the Royal Victoria Dock. It was removed when the entrance was rebuilt.

Victoria Dock Road
Royal Victoria Station. Opened in 1994 it lies between Custom House and Canning Town on the Docklands Light Railway Beckton branch. This station is near the site of what was Tidal Basin Station It is on part of the stretch which was once the British Rail North London Line which was paralleled by the Docklands Light Railway between Canning Town and Custom House. This closed in 2006. In 2009 the Beckton branch joined this stretch of line via a new flyover.
Tidal Basin Station. This lay between Canning Town and Custom House stations on the Eastern Counties and Thames Junction Railway. It opened in 1858 and was damaged by bombing in 1941 and closed in 1943 and never reopened.
Steam ship design in brick wall
190 Immanuel House of Worship. This was The British Flag Pub.
271  The Barge Pub. This dated from 1862 when it was called The Freemason's Tavern and was a Courage house later the Kilkenny Castle. It closed in 2002 and was used as hostel accommodation.  It has now been demolished.
272 Custom House Pub. This is attached to an Ibis hotel, both of which opened 2001. It replaced the Artful Dodger Pub which had previously been the Railway Tavern dating from 1886, or earlier.  It was then an Allsopp’s house and later became a Tolly Cobbold house.  It closed in the 1980s and demolished in 2001.
277 Spanish Steps Pub. Demolished in the 1990s and the site is now part of the Ibis Hotel.
Custom House Station. Originally built in 1855 this now stands  between Prince Regent and Royal Victoria Stations on the Docklands Light Railway Beckton line.  It was originally The Great Eastern Railway’s ‘Victoria Docks’ station built on the 'avoiding line' to North Woolwich, which resulted from the construction of the dock, the original line becoming the Silvertown Tramway. The original railway was rejoined at Albert Dock Junction. There was a bay platform on the down side, which was rented to the Dock Company and the station was adjacent to exchange sidings for the dock systems.  It was rebuilt in 1891 with three platforms and a bay platform for Gallions Branch. A footbridge linked a shelter on the north side to the southbound platform. There was a signal box at the east end of the station. Following 1940s bombing passenger services ended but resumed to decline in the 1960s and the service became a shuttle between Stratford and North Woolwich. In 1969 the station buildings were demolished. From  1978 to 2006 it was part of the North London Line. A Docklands Light Railway station opened in 1994 as part of the Beckton extension and in 2006 the original rail service closed. The site of the original station will be used for a new Crosssrail station.
Custom House Engine Shed. This was built in 1881 by the London and St Katherine Docks Company. The shed’s locomotives were used shunting the various sidings, wharves and factories around the docks.
Footbridge. This links Victoria Dock Road with the dock area.
287 The Flying Angel. Built 1934-6 by Fetch & Femand to house the Anglican Missions to Seamen Institute, which moved here from Poplar. An eight-storey building for seamen's accommodation in red brick. At the top is a square-arched lantern that originally housed a flashing light and there is an angel motif on the wall. Converted to serviced flats for single people by Jefferson Sheard, 1985.

Western Gateway
A new road running along the north quay of the Royal Victoria Dock.

Westwood Street
This is now a pedestrianised walkway, not shown on some maps
Britannia Village Primary School. This trades as Britannia Education Trust. The school opened in 1999.  It was designed on the theme of ships, with masts and portholes to reflect the ships which came to the docks in this area. It appears to be on the site of Boxley Street Board School and West Silvertown School.

Sources
Ballard. Effluvia Nuisance
Baptists in Newham. Web site
Bird. Geography of the Port of London
BOCM History, Web site
A Brief History of Housing in Newham. Web site
British History on line. West Ham. Web site
Britannia Village School. Web site
Curwen. Old Plaistow
Dee Zeen. Web site
Dockland
Docklands History Survey
Docklands Light Railway. Official Handbook
Donald Insall. Heritage Assessment.
GLIAS Newsletter
Grace’s Guide
Kelly’s Trade Directory
London Borough of Newham. Web site
London’s Industrial Archaeology.
Lost Pubs Project. Web site
Pevsner and Cherry. East London
Port Cities. Web site
Silvertown Tunnel. Development Options
Tate and Lyle. Web site
The Crystal. Web site
Victoria County History. West Ham
Wake Up Docklands. Web site
Waymarking. Web site
Wikipedia. As appropriate

Monday, 22 January 2018

Crystal Palace


Post to the west Crystal Palace
Post to the south Anerley



Anerley Park
Penge Common. This area was originally part of Penge Common.
The Croydon Canal. The canal lay to the north of the railway but the route was obliterated by development in the 1870s.  In the 1840s the canal was still in water and used for leisure, activities like boating and angling.
Penge West Station. Opened in 1839 this now lies between Anerley and Sydenham on Southern Rail and is now also part of London Overground, who currently manage the station.  The original Penge station was opened by the London and Croydon Railway in 1839 and was closed again in 1841. The buildings remained while the line was parallel for the atmospheric railway and widened twice. In 1863 it was reopened by the London Brighton and South Coast Railway when the buildings were replaced. The ticket office was on the down platform along with a goods office, and waiting room. It appears to have been renamed Penge Bridges for a while. It was then accessed by a road from Penge High Street and there were sidings and a coal yard. This area has all now been removed and replaced by a large shop and access to the whole station is only from Anerley Park. The building on the up side was burnt down in 2005 and has since been rebuilt.  The white painted house at the far eastern end of the station frontage has been suggested as the gatekeeper’s house from the original London and Croydon railway.

Anerley Road
Road built in 1827 following the enclosure of the common Land sold to SE railway by W.Sanderson
Railway Bridge. This under road bridge carries the line running south from Crystal Palace station.
The Thicket. This pub was closed in 2011 and is now flats. It appears to date from the 1860s
Clarendon Hotel. This was originally the City of London Hotel and stood on the corner with Madeline Road. It was associated with the Crystal Palace Brewery to the rear.

Casteldine Road
Local authority housing built in the 1970s. It appears to be on the line of what was Ridsdale Road.
Anerley Tea Rooms Gardens.  These lay to the west of the canal - a ‘pleasure garden’ with a maze and bandstand built parallel with the canal. It remained until 1868.
The Croydon Canal. This lay between the railway and the tea gardens – probably on the line of what became St. Hugh’s Road – now covered by housing south of Castledine Road. It is said that some signs and relics of the canal can be seen on the west side of the road.
St. Hugh’s Community Centre and playground. When the estate was built residents lobbied for community facilities and it was agreed a community hall should be built on empty land. The St Hugh’s Estate Community Centre was opened in the early 1980’s, plus a small public open space and games area. The residents’ association took on the day-to-day management.
St. James’s Mission church. This stood on the corner of what were St. Hugh’s Road and Castledine Road. It was attached to St. Paul’s church south of Anerley Road.  It survived into at least the late 1960s.

Chalkenden Close
Mural –colourful mural with mysterious lettering

Croydon Canal
The Canal ran from Croydon to the Grand Surrey Canal at New Cross, It opened in 1809 and closed in 1836, the first canal to be abandoned by an Act of Parliament. The canal was bought by the London and Croydon railway whose line closely followed the canal route. The line of the canal through this area thus follows the railway as it runs from Penge West to Anerley Stations.

Crystal Palace
Crystal Palace. A vast edifice of glass and iron. This square covers the south eastern quarter of the park, although not the site of the Palace itself. The rest of the park is in squares to the north and west.
The Crystal Palace was built for the Great Exhibition of 1851 and stood in Hyde Park. After the Exhibition the Palace was dismantled and in 1854 was re-erected mainly through the sponsorship of London, Brighton and South Coast Railway Company. The site had been owned by Leo Schuster a director of the railway, who sold it to the Palace company.  The site had previously been Penge Place in part of the Great North Wood.  It opened in 1854.  It was eventually burnt down in 1936 but the park has remained. In 1951 Gerald Barry, Festival of Britain, director, was asked to advise on the best use of the space by then taken over by the London County Council. He proposed an exhibition centre but the Council only acted on his idea of a sports and training centre.
National Sports Centre. Although a major feature of the park the address is Ledrington Road (below)
Penge Entrance. The main entrance to the pleasure grounds is from this entrance in Thicket Road. It was once a lesser pedestrian entrance, which was enlarged around 1880 to include a small ticket office, and it now leads to a car park.
Anerley Entrance.  This is a pedestrian gate immediately north-east of the railway bridge over Thicket Road
Grand Central Walk. This was 2,660 feet long and 96 feet wide to provide a walk way link up to the palace. It has since been curtailed and goes to the raised terrace of the sports centre and is lined by plane trees.
Cafe. This is adjacent to the Central Walk and was built in the 20th.
Visitor Centre. This is on the site of the lower engine house which pumped water from the tidal lake up to the intermediate lake. A supplementary supply of water came from an adjacent 500 feet deep artesian well
Gorilla. Adjacent to the Central Walk is the statue of the late Gorilla, Guy, an inmate of London Zoo, shown on all fours in smooth marble. It dates from 1961 and is by David Gwynne.
The Lower Lake - boating lake. This is west of the Central Walk. It was built in 1854 as a lower reservoir for Paxton's water displays. The lake contains three islands and Paxton, with Professor David Amsteam, designed them to represent geology. The tail of the lake is crossed by a rustic iron bridge designed by Paxton which also provides a viewing platform.
The Prehistoric Monsters. These are 22 statues of how prehistoric creatures were thought to look. They are in bronze, realistically painted, and life-size. They were made in 1854 in artificial stone and iron rods by Benjamin Waterhouse Hawkins under the direction of Professor R. Owen, who invented the word ‘dinosaur’  The iguanodon was large enough for twenty-one men to dine in its half-completed body.  In 2000 they were renovated and reset in realistic poses around the lake where the islands were created to represent the rocks and plants from these times. There is a numbered trail to explain what each of the figures represents.
Cave with artificial stalactites. This is now sealed.
Palace Farmyard. This is was the site of polo stables.
South Basin. The remains of this feature, by Paxton is used as a pool for flamingos.
Cricket ground and cricket pavilion. This was built in 1960 to replace the original; pavilion, used by W G Grace. The ground was established in 1857 and used for first-class cricket 1864-1906. Initially it was used by Kent County Cricket Club and fro 1900 by the London County Cricket Club. The site was later used for tennis and then football but, as part of the National Sports Centre, cricket has been played on the site since the 1990s.
HMS Crystal Palace , this is an open-sided timber structure with a ship's bell, which commemorates the men of the Royal Navy at the training depot, H.M.S. Victory VI at the Crystal Palace, 1914 – 1918
Experimental Pneumatic Railway. This ran between Sydenham and Penge gates in the 1860's.  The means of propelling the train was pioneered by Webster Rammel.   Rammell persuaded the Crystal Palace Company to let him build a 600 yard tunnel which incorporated a sharp bend and at one point a 1:15 gradient. This was a full size carriage which was basically blown down the tunnel and then, the fan reversed, to pull it back up by a vacuum.  It was opened to the public in 1864 for 6d. for a return journey.   The storey goes that that somewhere beneath Crystal Palace is a 600 yard long rail tunnel, sealed at both ends, is a railway carriage full of skeletons.,
Motor-racing track. The circuit opened in 1927 and the first race was for motorcycles, Racing was halted at the start of the Second World War, but returned between 1954 and 1972.
Maze. This dated from 1866 but fell into disrepair after the Palace fire and was levelled in the 1960s. It has now been recreated by Bromley Council following the original design and using hornbeam hedges.
Crystal Palace Park Farm. This is run as a resource for children by Capel Manor College. It has replaced a Children’s Zoo which had camel rides and an adventure playground
Armoury. This was near the Penge Gate
Rosary and bandstand.  This was a rosary, spiral mound and bandstand from 1852. It is now the site of a walkway from the stadium to the station.
Paxton. Large marble head of Paxton, designer of the palace and the park, on a plinth and signed by W. F. Woodington, sculptor of the Lion Brewery lion, and dated 1869.  It was reinstalled in 1981 at the entrance to the National Recreation Centre.  It is five times life size with a romantic mane of hair.

Crystal Palace Park Road
Built as Penge New Road by the turnpike trust in 1827 and lined with tall red mansions of the 1880s.
Telephone Exchange. This dates from around 1970

Crystal Palace Station Road
Crystal Palace Low Level station. This opened in 1854 and lies between Norwood Junction and Gipsy Hill on Southern Rail  and the terminus of the East London Line of the London Overground.. The London, Brighton & South Coast Railway opened the station to passengers on in time for the opening of Crystal Palace in 1854. This was meant to be a combined terminal and through station with a line to Norwood, provided for construction traffic to Crystal Palace and a special line laid for Crystal Palace traffic run and as a shuttle. East of the line there was a local down line for East Station.  The LBSCR ran trains in 1856 to the West Station, from Wandsworth Common and from Victoria and then onwards to Shortlands and Norwood Junction.  It was a monumental scheme, with an enormous train shed as part of the "Crystal Palace Experience", and so in the grand manner. (it was dismantled in 1905 after Charing Cross Station roof fell down). The booking hall was between the two sets of lines on the bridge above the tracks and with a cast-iron arched roof with ribs in foliage patterns and pavilion roofs on either side. There was a sweeping staircase, on the platform, which has been demolished. There was a chapel in the booking hall and a restaurant on the first floor, stationmaster’s house, and directors’ room.  There was a glazed covered way to the Palace with statues with niches in which to have a rest. After the Second World War it provided a service to the National Sports Centre although many of the 19th features have been removed. In 1986 a new entrance and ticket office were built and in 2009 a considerable amount of work was involved in setting it for the London Overground service, including the re-use of a previously abandoned platform.
Three signal boxes.
Goods and coal yard. This was between the two halves of the station. The Crystal Palace Company’s had their own dock.

Hamlet Road
St.Paul’s Church was built and the parish formed in 1865 as the population of the area expanded.  It was replaced by the current octagonal church in 1978.

Ledrington road
Crystal Palace National Leisure Centre.  This is a large leisure centre with a modern gym, pools, diving boards, climbing walls and tennis courts. It opened in 1964 and is currently run by Better.  It covers the lower slopes south of the palace site and uses he basins of the fountains as sites.
The sports centre building was designed by the London County Council Architects Department under Leslie Martin between 1953–54.  Inside is a central concourse with a complex exposed concrete frame supporting the roof, which has a folded teak lining. The diving pool has, or had, a dramatic reinforced concrete diving platform.

Madeline Road
Crystal Palace Brewery, Ransby and Billing. This seems to have opened in the mid-1870s and to have had a variety of owners until destroyed by Second World War bombing.

Meaford Way
A service road round the rear of recent industrial development. It is mainly built on the site of sidings and coal yard connected too Penge West Station. It lay between the railway and the route of the
Croydon Canal.
Ametek Muirhead Aerospace. This was set up in 1950 as Field Aircraft Services and is a subsidiary of AMETEK Inc. They provide support to the aviation industry with a facility near to London Heathrow Airport is one of the largest independent repair facilities in Europe. It offers sales, repair, overhaul, modification and flight data recorder transcription capability.
Europa. This is a furniture hire business which evolved from a carpet fitting warehouse.

Oakfield Road
Croydon Canal.The canal curved through this area and provided a boundary to rear gardens. In 1970 when the ground beside the railway was dug for development they found a wall of brown clay and rubble infilling on what was the old canal bed.
Public Library. Penge's original library was on the corner with Laurel Grove and opened in 1894. It closed in 1928.  The building here was damaged in the Second World War and has now been replaced with flats.
Oakfield Industrial Estate – originally engineering works and sheet metal works.
2 Royal Oak. This pub closed in 2011.  It probably dated from the 1850s and was originally with the Lion Brewery. The site is now flats.
17-19 a new medical centre here replacing the old (listed) Penge Clinic which included a Relief Station and other outbuildings.
48 General Jackson. Charrington pub demolished in the 1970s.
121 Railway Bell. This pub was demolished in the 1970s – despite its green tiled frontage.  It dated from the 1880s.  The pub sign however remains in place on the roadside.
Oakfield Road School, this was transferred to Penge School Board in 1901 – presumably from Kent. It was a monumental school, but not in the London School Board style. It was latterly Penge County Secondary School.

Orchard Grove
Housing from the 1980s on an area previously railway sidings and unused. The dinosaurs are in the park on the other side of the railway

Penge High Street
Originally known as Beckenham Lane
2 Bridge House pub
Bridge House Theatre. In the upstairs of the pub
Beckenham Wharf – John Scott’s wharf on the canal was just north of the bridge on the west side of the road. It was also known as Penge Common Wharf canal.
Croydon canal. This crossed the road at the same point as the London to Croydon railway.   The crossing included a swing bridge.  .
Railway Bridge. This ornamental bridge of 1854 carries the line to Crystal Palace Station. It has three segmental arches with ornamental panelled brickwork.
Railway Bridge. The London and Croydon railway originally crossed the High Street by a level crossing and trains would have waited while the crossing gates were opened for them. After the station closed in 1841, the level crossing was converted to a bridge. The road had to be lowered to provide headroom.
Penge West Station. The original entrance to the station was on the High Street. Evidence of this can be seen in the brickwork below the bridge. On re-opening it was first called Penge Bridges.

Thicket Road
Railway Bridge.  This was built in. 1854 and his skew with an ornate perforated parapet.

Trenholme Close
Croydon Canal. Properties in the Close follow the alignment of the canal which was to the right of Trenholme Terrace and ran towards Castledine Road

Versailles Road
Anerley School for Deaf Boys.  Founded in 1902 to each a ‘pure form of oralism’. Boys were taught bakery, shoe mending, carpentry and so on. The school closed 1956 on conversion to a school for ‘maladjusted children’.  As Anerley School for Boys it was a ‘Community Special School’. This has closed and the site is now flats.

Waldegrave Road
Church, - this is now flats. It was built as the New Church (Swedenborgian). The architect was W.E. Henley, manager of the Concrete Building Company and is built in pitted concrete, now coloured pink. In the Second World War the building was damaged by a rocket attack. The building was finally sold in 198.

Woodbine Grove
Community Vision Nursery

Sources
Beckenham History. Web site
Bygone Kent 
Canals from Croydon to Camberwell,
Chelsea Speleological Society. Newsletter
Cinema Theatres Association. Newsletter
Clunn.  The Face of London
Crystal Palace Park Heritage and Nature Norwood Trail
Darke. The Monument Guide
GLIAS Newsletter
Green Chain Walk., leaflet
Green. Around Dulwich 
Forbears. Web site
Headley & Meulenkamp. Follies, Grottoes and Garden Buildings
Industrial Archaeology Review
Laurie. Beneath the City Streets  
London Borough of Bromley. Web site
Lost Pubs Project. Web site
Norwood Society. Web site
Parks and Gardens. Web site
Pevsner. West Kent
Pevsner and Cherry, South London
Pub History. Web site
Remnants of the Croydon Canal. Web site
South East London Industrial Archaeology
Thames Basin Archaeology of Industry. Report
Thorne. Old and New South London
Wagstaff and Pullen. Beckenham. An Anthology of Local History
Warwick. The Phoenix Suburb