Friday, 29 August 2014

Great Eastern Railway to Shenfield. Harold Wood


The Great Eastern Railway Line from Liverpool Street to Shenfield runs north eastwards from Gidea Park Station

Post to the west Gallows Corner
Post to the north Harold Hill


Arundel Road
Library. Built 1967 by Essex County Council (or it might be 1959). It is very simple on a triangular site, with a shady forecourt.


Athelstan Road
British Legion Hall. This was originally the Harold Wood (United) Methodist church which in 1908 took over an undenominational mission hall which had been registered in 1889. In 1929 they moved to a new site. This is now the local British Legion headquarters. They have a small war memorial in the front garden
Athelstan Hall. This has been a meeting place for The Brethren since 1952.

Gubbins Lane
An old lane overtaken by suburban sprawl.  It runs between the main A12, Colchester Road and Squirrels Heath Road. Gubbins Farm was roughly the area on which Harold Wood was built having been bought by a group of developers in the 1860s.
Harold Wood Station. Built in 1868 it lies between Main Line destinations and Gidea Park Station on Great Eastern Railway. It is in grey brick. The station was built with the sponsorship of the Harold Wood Estate Company. The origins platforms were staggered but this changed in 1934 when the lines were widened and four platforms installed. This was s that through fast trains could pass but not stop here.
Signal box. This went out of use in the 1930s when the role was taken over by Gidea Park and Brentwood boxes,
Goods yard.  Was closed in 1965. A siding ran behind the signal box to serve a brickworks.
Provender mill. In 1895 James and George H. Matthews Ltd., had a shop supplying animal food to dairy farmers. In 1905 they built a mill beside the station and the firm expanded opening other branches and selling fertilisers, seeds, and coal. It was bought by Unilever in 1965 and demolished in 1970.  There are now flats n the site which was south of the railway and west of the road.
Oakdene. Housing on the site of a children’s home which was previously an Essex County Council Boys’ Remand Home.
War Memorial Hall. There is a commemorative plaque to the dead of the Great War on the wall. The hall was built by Edward Bryant who lived in Harold Wood Hall. He built what was called an “Entertainment Hall” “to combat the dullness of village life.” Bryant’s was the Bryan half of Bryant and May match manufactures of Bow. After the War, Bryant gave the hall to the village so that it could become the War Memorial Hall.
The Grange.  The manor house of Gubbins was demolished in the 18th and replaced by a farm. The Grange was built on the site in 1883 standing in 30 acres of grounds, which included a formal garden and an ornamental lake. It became the offices of Compton, who owned the Gubbins estate.  They were millers and seedsmen with businesses across Essex and Suffolk.  In 1909 it became a children’s home for West Ham Borough, and then formed the nucleus of the hospital, which was run by West Ham initially as The Grange convalescent home
Harold Wood Hospital. In 1909 West Ham County Borough acquired The Grange as a children's convalescent home for patients from the Plaistow Fever Hospital.   In 1911 a new block was built.  Named after Dr John Biernacki the Home's first Medical Superintendent and the Physician-Superintendent of the Plaistow Fever Hospital.  In 1930 more blocks were added and the home took chronic adult cases, to relieve the Public Assistance Home at Leyton on a temporary basis.  In the Second World War it took military wounded and civilian air-raid casualties in prefabricated huts built in the grounds. It was known as Harold Wood Hospital and remained as such after the war. It joined the NHS in 1948 and was expanded in the 1960s to become a District General Hospital. The Hospital closed in 2006.  The site was sold to developer to Countryside Properties for housing development called Kings Park. The original house, The Grange, remains
Disablement Services Centre.
The Harold Wood Polyclinic. A GP walk-in health centre in a building, once the McKesson Computer Centre, was opened in 2010.
28-30 Oasis House.  An adult mental health clinic run by the Upminster Community Mental Health Team
24 Harold Wood Community Health Clinic
St. Peter’s Church. Built by J.J. Crowe in 1938-9 as a successor to an iron church in Church Road. The foundation stone was laid by the Matthews brothers, the local millers – and is a memorial to Frederick Lawson Matthews, who was killed in 1916. 
Methodist church. There were Methodists in Harold Wood from 1889. In 1929 a church and school were built in Gubbins Lane, with the aid of funds from William Mallinson. A new church was built in 1962, and the 1929 building to the rear became a hall.
Harold Wood Neighbourhood Centre.   This is in an old school building which was originally a National school opened with the help of John Compton, the main landowner in 1886. In it 1933 was reorganized for juniors and infants and was still in use in 1975


Harold Wood Park.
Harold Wood was a small hamlet on the edge of the Royal hunting park. Housing development began with the opening of a half here by the Great Eastern Railway. Land was given to Hornchurch Urban District Council in 1934 for use by Harold Wood Cricket Club in an area to the east of this square. Harold Wood Park has since had a range of recreational facilities and recently a refurbishment of the tennis courts.

Station road
King Harold Hotel. Built in 1868 as part of the station development

St Clements Avenue
London South Bank University campus.  This is a nursing study centre with 700 Nursing students. There are three nursing skills laboratories set up to replicate hospital wards


Sources
Brennand. Ilford to Shenfield.
British History online. Hornchurch.
Clunn. Face of London
Essex Journal
Field. London Place Names
Hornchurch During the Great War. Web site
London Borough of Havering. Web site.
London Gardens Online. Website
Lost Hospitals of London. Web site
Nairn. Modern Buildings

Wednesday, 27 August 2014

Great Eastern Railway to Shenfield. Gidea Park

Great Eastern Railway from Liverpool Street to Shenfield
The railway continues from Romford Station running north eastwards to Gidea Park.

Post to the west Romford
Post to the south Heath Park
Post to the east Squirrels Heath


Balgores Crescent
1-3 with Crittal Windows type curved bay
7 Quaker Meeting House.  In the 1950s the Havering Friends group were looking for new premises. A site off Balgores Crescent was bought which had been used for allotments during the war and was full of broken glass from greenhouses and cloches. It was opened in 1961.


Balgores Lane
Several houses in the road were built as entries in the 1911 exhibition – for example 17, 32, 33, 35, 39, 47, 49 51
Balgores House.  A grey and yellow brick house of the 1850s. Served as refreshment rooms for the exhibition and was the home of Mr. William Bose, secretary of Gidea Park Golf Club. In the Great War it provided additional accommodation for the Artists Rifles, having been offered rent free by Sir Herbert Raphael.  Now a private fee paying ‘preparatory’ school called Gidea Park College. The school was founded in 1926 by the grandfather of the present owners, Mrs.N. Molyneux and Mrs. A. Parkinson-Curd.
Lloyds Bank. The bank is on the site of The Cottage – which was Humphrey Repton’s home. It was standing in 1911 and a plaque on Lloyds Bank building describes his work here.
Library


Balgores Square
This is a fragment of an uncompleted shopping centre designed to have a continuous arcaded ground floor around three sides of the square. But instead houses were built on the undeveloped plots and the square is now a car park
Elm Walk
3 -7 designed by Curtis Green but they were not exhibition houses

Gidea Close
Site of Gidea Hall. This is now a covenanted space used by the tennis club. Surrounded by tall hedges. From 1452-1629 it was owned by the Cooke family, with a 15th/16th house built on the site of a 13th manor. It was a moated house within parkland with deer, a rabbit warren and fishpond. It had several subsequent owners and in 1710 it was owned by Sir John Eyles, Sub-Governor of the South Sea Company and Post-master General who rebuilt it as a three storey mansion. It was then sold to Richard Benyon, Governor of Fort St George, Madras and his grandson sold it to Alexander Black.  In 1893 it was sold to the Land Allotment Company for development but then sold on to Herbert H. Raphael, barrister and a Liberal MP. In the Great War it was an Officers School for the Artists Rifles and was demolished in 1930
Gidea Park Lawn Tennis Club. Established in the 1930s


Gidea Park,
The Romford Garden Suburb begun in 1910 and the designers of the houses include most of the influential figures of the late Arts and Crafts movement. Herbert Raphael M.P. had acquired Gidea Hall in 1897 and 1909 set up Gidea Hall Development Co. with Charles McCurdy and John Tudor Walters, in order to develop a garden suburb.  Plans for the layout were published in 1909 and may have been by Parker and Unwin.  work began in 1910 and The 'Exhibition of Houses and Cottages' was opened in 1911 with 140 houses and cottages by over 100 separate architects - Baillie Scott,  Crickmer, Geoffrey Lucas, Parker & Unwin,  W.Curtis Green, Herbert A. Welch and T.M, Wilson. C.R. Ashbee and Clough Williams Ellis. The exhibition houses were the core of the suburb the shopping centre was never completed and some other plots were filled with standard interwar speculative housing.


Hare Hall Lane
Hare Court. Boring flats 1937.


Main Road
It was the reference is to the Roman road from London to Colchester and called Hare Street. ‘Here’ is Old English for ‘army’ which means it was the ‘army road' - a 'main road suitable for the army'.
St Michael and All Angels. Built in 1938 by J.J. Crowe, Crowe and Careless. The first Anglican place of worship in Gidea Park was St Michael’s Mission Church built in 1928 and then Gidea Park was in the Chapelry of All Saints Squirrels Heath now known as Ardleigh Green. In 1933 the new Parish of St Michael Gidea Park was set up and a Church Hall built, which remains. The Church itself was consecrated in 1938. It is in red brick under a continuous roof with a square tower with louvred shingled roof,
Bishop Chadwick Hall. This was the 1928 mission building
75 timber-framed building with pargetting in the upper floor, was allegedly built for the British Exhibition at White City and brought here as the estate office. Now offices.
93 The Ship Pub, This is an old building behind a 20th half-timbered front, it is probably 17th with later additions.
194-204 The Archers pub. Of this building 198-200 were some of the first of the suburb buildings, completed for the exhibition in 1912. They were built as Shops with flats above
Royal Jubilee Court. Local authority sheltered housing complex
67 Churchill House. Romford Conservative Club.
91 Harvester – chain restaurant in what was The Unicorn pub and has also been called The Cavalier.  A pub called the Unicorn was here in the 18th.


Squirrel’s Heath Avenue,
The designers, Ashbee and Gripper & Stevenson, made a formal layout arranged around an elliptical green. Only one side was completed and the other side was built in conventional speculative fashion of the 1920s.


Station Road
Gidea Park Station. This lies between Harold Wood and Romford stations on the Great Eastern Railway. It was opened in 1910 and originally called Squirrels Heath and Gidea Park Station and within three years it changed to Gidea Park and Squirrels Heath. The Gidea Park Company persuaded the railway company to build the station and forced them to buy the Hare Hall Estate.
Signal Box. This was built above the platform sited on the overbridge

Sources
Brennand. Ilford to Shenfield
Diamond Geezer. Web site
Essex Journal
Field. London Place Names
Gidea Park College Web site
Gidea Park Lawn Tennis Club
Gidea Park Quakers. Web site
Harvester. Web site
London Borough of Havering. Web site
London Encyclopaedia
Lost Heritage. Web site
Pevsner and Cherry. Essex 
St.Michael and All Angels. Web site
The Ship. Web site

Tuesday, 26 August 2014

Great Eastern Railway to Shenfield Heath Park


Great Eastern Railway
The Great Eastern Railway from Liverpool Street to Shenfield runs north eastwards from Romford Station. The London, Tilbury and Southend Railway line to Grays Leaves the line to the south east

Post to the west Romford
Post to the east Heath Park
Post to the north Gidea Park


Benjamin Close
New housing on the site of a builders yard

Brentwood Road
163-165 Kingdom Hall of Jehovah’s Witnesses. The hall is currently replaced.
Francis Bardsley Academy for Girls. The first school was started, in 1906, by Francis Bardsley in the centre of Romford to provide free education for local girls. It later moved to Brentwood Road. In the 1930 it became a selective grammar school and was renamed the Romford County High School for Girls.  Until 2003 the school was based on two separate sites; the Upper School here in Brentwood Road which was (built in 1910 and the Lower School in Heath Park Road. The two sites were joined by a long road in 2003 the Lower School Site was sold. The school gained Specialist school status in the Visual arts in 2004, and academy status in 2012.
Romford Evangelical Free Church. In 1888 a corrugated iron building, in Boundary Road was called 'The Gospel Mission Hall'. In 1897 the church bought the land on which the church now stands and was opened for worship in 1902. In 1963 new halls were built to the rear.

Great Gardens Road
This is named for Great Gardens Farm, which stood here. This was a dairy and poultry farm.

Heath Park Road
Frances Bardsley Lower School. This was built as Romford County High School for Girls in 1909-10 by Hickton and Farmer of Walsall. It was renamed in 1974 in honour of its founder, a prominent campaigner for education of girls. .he Upper School is in the Brentwood road and the two sites were around a quarter of a mile from one another, and joined by a long road. In 2003 the Lower School Site was sold and developed into houses and flats. The main school building was converted into 12 apartments and 2 duplex galleried houses and renamed ‘Academy Square’.

Hyland Park
This is on the site of a big house and estate. Hylands was developed in the 1920s by the French family, who were local publicans who bought it in 1920. It was an orchard and piggery and it was then converted into a trotting and racing track behind corrugated iron fencing. The first race meeting was held in 1925 and Hornchurch UDC tried to prevent it but was overruled by Minister of Health. The track was also used for athletics meetings. However it eventually closed down and became derelict. The local authority bought it in 1927 and laid it out as a Park. Cricket and football pitches were laid on the former trotting track. An avenue of poplars was planted as a windbreak, and a rose garden was planted on the site of a static water tank. The stone gate piers and gates at Osborne Road came from Grey Towers, a 19th castellated mansion demolished in 1931.  In the Second World War the area was used for allotments and there was some bombing.  The area was later reinstated with sports facilities.

Manor Road
Manor Hall. Church of God. The church is currently rebuilding the hall. This was the building of the Catholic Apostolic Church. Originated in 1867, when a house in High Street was registered for worship. Meetings were held in the Laurie Hall, Market Place, from 1869 until about 1894, when an iron church was built in Manor Road. In 1962 that church was re-registered as the undenominational Manor Hall


Park Lane
Raphael School. This is a private school which originated in 1935 as Clark’s College. The Colleges –which were a national chain - had been started by George E. Clark who had started evening classes and specialise in tutoring candidates for the civil service. The Romford College was in Junction Road and apparently moved here and changed their name. The building here was Park Lane Board School, opened in 1893, which was the first built by the school board. The school was reorganized in 1930 for juniors and infants. It was later called Edwin Lambert Junior and Infants School. It has now closed.


Princes Road
St Alban’s church. This was opened in 1890 as a mission of St.Andrew and became a separate parish in 1952. The church is filled with the work of contemporary artists. Glass doors at the entrance were engraved by Sally Scott and David Peace showing the shrine of St Alban, and St Alban. Inside is an organ, with green pipes decorated with red and blue bands and gilded mouths. Pilgrimage Window, with Our Lady of Walsingham designed by Patrick Reyntiens. Font, the cover of which is also connected with Walsingham. By Siegfried Pietzsch. Above the chancel arch, is Peter Eugene Ball’s Christus Rex. Above the altar are Angel Windows, designed by Patrick Reyntiens. Angels continue on the mural which fills vault where Mark Cazalet, painted the angels of the four elements of Creation and at the bottom of the mural the market, the buses and trains, a white van carrying the logo of the Romford Chamber of Commerce and Industry, the Essex girls dancing round their handbags. Around the church, are the Stations of the Cross carved in European oak by Charlie Gurrey. Siegfried Pietzsch carved the statues of Our Lady and St Alban on each side of the chancel.  The Church has been awarded twelve Design Awards
Churchyard. Column of Remembrance in Portland stone by Jamie Sargeant. This sculpture bench, by John Pitt, in Portland stone, representing the Trinity, with the words ‘Come ye apart and rest awhile’ carved on vertical slabs. The seat is inscribed ‘And our hearts are restless till they rest in Thee’


Rushdown Close
Modern housing on the site of depot of builders merchants, Hall & Co. of Croydon., The depot was built in 1923 on the site of a gravel pit which they had opened in 1914 – seen as a risky venture into unknown territory.

Salisbury Road
Squirrels Heath Primary School. This was originally, Salisbury Road council school was opened in 1911. It was renamed in 1956. And a new school was built in 1974 on a neighbouring site.


Sources
British History online. Hornchurch. Web site
British History online. Romford. Web site
Field. London Place Names
Francis Bardsley Academy. Web site
Hall. A Century and a Quarter
London Borough of Havering. Web site
London Gardens Online. Web site
Romford Evangelical Free Church. Web site

Monday, 25 August 2014

Great Eastern Railway to Shenfield. New Romford


Great Eastern Railway from Liverpool Street to Shenfield
The railway runs north eastwards from Chadwell Heath Station

Post to the west Romford
Post to the north Romford
Post to the east Romford

London Road.
17 Allen Ford.  Current Ford dealership. Charles H. Allen had taken over the business of Slipper's coach builders of North Street Romford from the mid 91th.
Cottons Park. This was originally Cottons Recreational Ground named after the Cottons Estate with a 16th house until the 20th. In 1920 Romford Urban District Council negotiated the ownership of this land and it was cleared and tennis courts and a putting green were laid out using unemployed labour. There was planting and paths one of which went from the London Road, entrance to a bandstand. There were also fields for rugby, soccer and cricket and a children's playground. In the Second World War there were air-raid shelters and a decontamination centre – which later became a café. In 2009 six sculptures commemorated six people killed in bombing in 1940. In the 1960s houses in Marks Road were compulsorily purchased and demolished to enlarge the park. Facilities now include an outdoor gym and areas for younger children and for teenagers.
New Mill Inn. This stood on the corner of Waterloo Road
47 The Sun public house. Probably designed by Sewell for Truman's, on a large scale with Neo Regency-cum-Art Deco details and a, its sun motif blazing.  There has been a Sun pub here since the early 17th.
49 Compasses pub. This pub was present before the 1830s but gone before the Second World War
Salem Baptist Chapel.   In 1836 a Baptist church was set up. In 1840 land on which the Chapel stands was purchased. The land had been part of a Napoleonic Barrack Ground. The original meeting room was built and the chapel later built round an open air Baptismal Pool. In the 1930s a new church was built on a different site; however the old chapel continued with a new constitution. There was some bomb damaged in the Second World War but repairs were carried out, and later extensions and improvements. The church undertakes much mission work and community involvement.It is now the only 1840s survivor in the neighbourhood
Postmill. This was on the south side of the road, west of St. Andrews' Road. In 1751 the owner was Thomas Green. The Collier family operated the mill until. 1860. The mill had gone by 1871.
Workmen’s Lodging House. This was near Cotton’s Recreation Ground and was an outreach project of the Salem Chapel.
Bus depot. This lay west of Cotleigh Road on the south side and appears to now be the site of St.Andrew’s Court flats. It has been opened in 1932 by Edward Hillman’s Saloon Coaches. It was an early garage to run Green Line coaches but then closed at the outbreak of the Second World War.  It reopened and closed several times, but finally in 1977
83 Kwick Fit fronting large factory building now divided into units. This was a bakery belonging to the Co-op.
83a Celestial Church of Christ
119 St Andrews Rectory
140 Omega Court. Modern flats on the site of Jessop’s art deco car dealership works.
164 Slaters Arms
Crowlands Primary School. The school was built on land owned by the charity of Robert Palmer, who left money in 1624 for the poor of Romford. In 1811 the land owned was called Townfield and this was sold in 1907 to the county council. It was originally London Road School for 280 infants designed in 1908 by Cecil Sharp and A.S.R. Ley in an Arts and Crafts style. It was enlarged in1931 but in 1937 the seniors were transferred elsewhere and it was renamed in 1956. . The Infants building has an octagonal tiled roof and classrooms flanking a hall with a central cupola. The Junior School was built in 1912 and bas a central hall. A nursery was added in 2000.
260 The Crown pub. This was once an out of town country pub but the greyhound stadium brought it a lot of business.
Romford Greyhound Stadium was opened near the Crown hotel in 1929.  It was the ideas of Archer Leggatt and the hare was pulled round by a bus engine. Following a dispute on rent the present stadium, which is on the opposite side of London Road, was opened in 1933. Over the years the stadium has hosted many events including stock car racing, Wild West shows and cheetah races. It is now one of the few remaining tracks in the country, and is part of Coral, betting empire.
Mawney Road
The Manor of Mawneys ran north from Romford High Street to Collier Row.  Benjamin Harding Newman inherited the estate in 1882 and put it up for sale. By 1889 much of it had been developed for building. The manor house of Mawneys stood on a moated site and it was demolished about 1935 and the United Services Club now stands on the site
United Service Club. A Formation Committee was set up in 1920 by the ex-servicemen of Romford from the Great War and a club was opened in the High Street in 1921. In 1938 it was decided to extend the facilities and the Committee purchased "Great Mawneys” which opened in 1939. It has been extended since.
44 Mawney Arms. Dates from the 1890s and refurbished 1999. All the old fittings were reinstalled in a bar in Thailand called the Mawney Arms.
Mawney Foundation School. This opened as .Mawney Road Board School in 1896, to replace Albion Street School. It was enlarged in 1907 and in 1936 reorganized in 1936 for juniors and infants. It has recently received Foundation status. The building is by Charles Bell with roof tile hanging and an arcaded entrance. 
49 Stanton Gate. Office block and trading estate in what appears to be an old factory site
Public baths. Mawney Road baths were Opened in 1900 were at known as locally 'Craig's White Elephant' since they had been pushed by Councillor J. J. Craig. They were demolished in 1975.

Pretoria Road
Romford Smallholders. An inaugural meeting of the Romford Smallholders and Allotments Society Ltd. was held in 1911. Sir John Bethel lent the society the money and a site was bought. Potential members paid a five shilling share. The limited company went into liquidation in 1935 and was replaced. The allotments were popular during the Second World War but then declined. In the 1990s efforts were made to sell stock and to clear overgrown sites and facilities have improved

Queen Street
This was the area of the 18th Cavalry barracks which stretched as far as the railway. It was sold in 1840, and developed with artisans' cottages and factories. It became known as New Romford. Since the Second World War it has-been redeveloped with council flats.
British School. This dated from a foundation of 1839 by Congregationalists in Angel Yard and later moved to new buildings in here in 1851. It was supported by subscriptions and children’s pence. In 1872 it was taken over by the newly-formed school board, who turned it into a mixed school – it had been boys only. It was replaced in 1896 by Mawney Road School but the building was later used by St. Andrew's infants’ school, and in 1912 it was sold to Brazier's Yard mission.

Railway
There was a considerable area of sidings to the south of the railway as it approaches Romford Station. In the 1860s this was confined to a eastwards running siding into an area known as The Gullet, north and east of Nursery Lane and described as a ‘goods siding’.  By the 1890s sidings were running westwards from the main line into the gas works west of Nursery Lane.  In the late 1930s the sidings north of the hospital site had increased with cattle pens and lines fanning out towards increased good provision nearer to Romford Station. Lines also extended westwards almost reaching Jutsums Lane.  The lines nearer to Romford, between Nursery Lane and Waterloo Road are now the site of some very recent housing, and areas that were sidings near the gasworks are used by a number of industrial and related units and partly, to the west were used by National Grid.  To the west of this land is still in use by railway maintenance and other functions accessed from Jutsums Lane   Cattle Pens were sited here
Signal Box
Barrack Lane Station. This was the original Romford Station and sited to the west of the current station. The Barracks were in the area now covered by St. Andrews Road.


Recreation Avenue
This, of course, leads to a gate into the park

Sandgate Close
Queen Elizabeth House. Royal Mail depot on part of the old gas works site.
Self Storage Company area. This uses ‘containers’ rather than a building.

Spring Gardens
This includes a small light industrial area built post-Second World War. Much of these have been replaced by recent housing
Colvern. Manufacturers of wire-wound potentiometers and variable resistors including high-accuracy precision potentiometers. 650 employees. In 1973 Acquired by Royal Worcester
Colvern House – new housing which is presumably on the site of Colvern’s factory described as ‘a remarkable building by W.Hammond for a number of electrical engineering firms”

St Andrew's Road
32 Prince Albert. Pub. This dates to at least the 1870s
St Andrew. Built 1861-2 by John Johnson in rag stone for the New Romford area with support from the Ind and Coope brewery families. It is named for an original, and lost, parish church in Romford. A High Church tradition was established by 1900 and many original 19th fittings remain. The Church is now also used for Orthodox services at approximately monthly intervals since 2008. The community was recognised as a parish in 2011 and includes English and Greek as well as Russian members.
St.Andrews Church Centre.        
2 The Old School House

St. Edwards Way
Part of the Romford Bypass A1251

Union Road
The Gullett
Oldchurch Hospital. The Hospital originated from the Romford Union workhouse, which lay in the square to the south of this.  In 1929 the workhouse and its infirmary came under the administration of Essex County Council, who converted it into the Oldchurch County Hospital.  The Hospital, incorporated the old workhouse buildings, but also expanded in an area to the north during the 1930s.  In 1948 the Hospital joined the NHS and remained an acute hospital and in 2000 had 473 beds.   The Hospital closed in 2006. The site has been sold and is being redeveloped for housing by E.ON and Taylor Wimpey East London.  Much has been demolished

Sources
Brennand. Ilford to Shenfield
British History .On Line Romford
Evans. Romford a History
Evans. Romford Heritage
Evans. Romford people and places over the 10th century
Glazier. London Transport Garages
Grace’s Guide. Web site
London Borough of Havering. Web site
London Gardens On Line. Web site
Lost Hospitals of London. Web site
Pevsner and Cherry. Essex
Romford Smallholders Society. Web site
Romford Then and Now. Web site
Salem Chapel. Web site
St.Andrew’s Church. Web site
United Service Club. Web site

Saturday, 23 August 2014

Great Eastern Railway to Shenfield. Whalebone Lane

Great Eastern Railway
The Great Eastern Railway line from Liverpool Street to Shenfield continues eastwards

Post to the west Chadwell Heath
Post to the east Crowlands

Coppen Road
Industrial area built up since the 1920s.
Capricorn Centre

David Road
Gateposts on the bend at what must have been the entrance to Lymington Secondary School

Eric Road
St.Chad’s Church Hall. With local activities like a youth club called United Origin.

Freshwater Road
Trading and industrial area – although the original big chemical and related factories have been replaced partly by building supplies warehouses, and smaller specialist organisations –like the Tate Gallery’s publishing house
Baird and Tatlock. Buildings here built 1951-1960 Analytical chemists, scientific instrument makers and laboratory furnishers originating in Glasgow with factories in the London area. Eventually part of British Drug Houses and owned by Merck Ltd under which name the business later operated and this involved the storage and packaging of various chemicals. The buildings were demolished between 1995 and 1999
Hoo Hing. Chinese food supplier in a building from 1999 on part of what was the Baird and Tatlock site
41-51 Nichols and Clarke.  Building supplies. Founded in 1875 in London, they claim to be the largest privately owned national manufacturer and distributor of building products.


Kemp Road
Kemp Road Industrial Park an estate of small industrial units on the site of what was Barton Bakery.
23 Concord House. Harmony Christian Centre
Kingdom Power Bible Church International

Lymington Fields
Vacant and made up of grassland. The west part of the site was originally part of now demolished Barking Technical College  and associated playing fields (in an adjacent square)..
Gravel Pit. The eastern part of the site was formerly a gravel pit and landfill from the 1960’s. A siding ran into this from the railway


Saville Road
West Ham United Football Club training ground


Selinas lane
Intensive industrial area with many light and less light industries.  Very little information about any of them.
Dairy Crest Depot. This is the liquid foods department of this national dairy brand. State of the art dairy processes 400 million litres of milk a year
The Redeemed Christian Church of God Fountain of Living Water. This is in Ronac House, brick built factory unit owned by Ronacrete, concrete company. The building is on the line of the siding from the Great Eastern Railway to the now defunct gravel pit to the south.
Selinas Lane Islamic Centre. VW House. Previously in use as a motor sales centre.


St Chad's Road.
St Chad‘s church. This was originally founded as a chapel-of-ease to St Peter and St Paul, in Dagenham. It was built 1895-8 by Frederic Chancellor in red brick. It has an embattled clock tower, added in 1897-8 to commemorate the Diamond Jubilee.


Whalebone Lane
The Whalebones themselves were in the High Road north of this area/
Whalebone Bridge over the Great Eastern Railway.
Triptons Service Station. Triptons was the name of a farm on this site
Whalebone Farm was opposite the entrance to Selinas Lane. It was also called Butlers Farm

Sources
Essex Journal
London Borough of Barking and Dagenham. Web site
Nature conservation in Barking and Dagenham.
St.Chad’s Web site
Victoria County History. Essex

Thursday, 21 August 2014

Great Eastern Railway to Shenfield. Ilford


Great Eastern Railway – from Ilford to Shenfield
The railway from Ilford station continues north westwards

Post to the west Great Ilford
Post to the north Seven Kings
Post to the east Seven Kings
Post to the south Loxford


Buckingham Road
Karamsar Centre. Sikh Centre in what was Ilford County Court. The court building were sold to the Sikh community in 2013
Romford and Ilford County Court. History: In the late 19th legal services provided by Romford County Court, for the Becontree Division of Essex.  In 1910 it was renamed ‘Romford and Ilford County Court’ and some sittings were held in Ilford Town Hall.  In 1937 this purpose built court was opened and designed by J.H. Markham of the Office of Works.  It is a single storey building with the Royal standard over the main door.  There is a small garden area fronting the High Road enclosed by railings with red brick piers.
Cemetery.  The Ilford Burial Board, established in 1880, laid out a cemetery adjoining St.Mary's church. It was originally called Great Ilford Cemetery. The 19th Chapel has been demolished because of vandalism. Howards & Sons War Memorial has been moved to Barkingside cemetery. Facing the gate is a memorial to Sir Peter Griggs, first MP for Ilford. There is also a war memorial which says ‘Their name liveth for evermore. On these panels are commemorated those members of His Majesty's Forces who gave their lives for their country in the Great War 1914 - 1918. Whose graves in this cemetery but are not marked by separate headstones.”


Clarks Road
Until around 1900 this area was a brickfield owned by Henry Clark and a row of Brickfield Cottages lay in the area which became Clark’s Road
Pit – this area was the site of a pit opposite the Cauliflower Public House and confusingly it has sometimes also been called the Cauliflower Pit.
Corporation Yard. 
Amity Community Centre
Liberty House and the Redeemed Church of God.
Bruton House Axis School
. This was at one time a clothing factory but, like the other buildings in the complex, were part of the Ilford Council buildings behind the Electricity Department offices in the High Road.
The Ilford Training Centre. An outreach centre of Havering College.
Ilford Ambulance Station – this opened post Second World War and was out of use by the late 1950s
Electricity substation – a main substation for the area.

Connaught Road 
Eden Christian Centre. At the junction with Stanley Road. This African Evangelical church was originally a Primitive Methodist Chapel. It opened as an iron building in 1897 and closed in 1936 and re-opened as the apostolic church. In the Second World War. It was bombed and in 1960 a new building was put up on the site including a house called ‘The Manse’.
Clementswood and Mayfield Community Centre. One of a number of businesses in a mews area.

Golfe Road
Homes of Rest for the Church of England Temperance Society dated 1910, with designs by Arthur C. Russell for the Sons of Temperance Friendly Society, Pension Almshouse Fund. Red brick houses with fire-resistant, reinforced concrete to upper-floors. There is a brick plaque with mosaic decoration and inscriptions and a stone memorial plaque.  Flanking bungalows each with porch that in the centre with characterful round arch as a curved wall and a little tower at the back.
Gordon Infants School. Opened in 1930.


Gordon Road
Territorial Army. 217 Field Squadron - Royal Engineers. The Regiment forms an active part of 2 (National Communications) Signal Brigade, providing military communications for national operations. The TA base in Ilford has strong links to the Worshipful Company of Poulters of London. It is a modern building set in spacious grounds. The Army Reserve Centre is also here. The centre is set in Gordon Fields, used for military and other displays but also as a sports ground. Previously the site was the Gordon Club - complete with a crenulated tower and was the home of HQ Company of the 4th, The Essex Regiment until 1969. The original Drill Hall was built in 1872 at the rear of the Thompson Rooms where 'Centreway' is today. These original buildings at Gordon Fields were demolished in the late 1980's
St Peter and St.Paul Roman Catholic Primary School. The school originated in 1900. In 1961 it was re-organized for juniors and infants


Green Lane,
Old main road. The western end was diverted in the 19th having been closed by the brick field owner in 1826 and diverted.
Barracks. This building is noted on pre-20th maps south of the road on the cusp of the southwards curve east of South Park Road.  It is however east of the site of the later TA Centre and Barracks.
63 Prince of Wales pub



Griggs Approach
Elevated road which crosses the Great Eastern Railway and the old A118 High Road which is pedestrianised beneath it.
Eastern Roundabout. It is hoped to put a mammoth on this


Hainault Road
1-7 Harrison Gibson’s depository. Advertised on a still decipherable wall sign to the rear of the building. Now Stratford School of Management.
Spectrum Tower. Housing which was part of a plan to bring more people to live in the town centre this is a 12 storey block by ATP Group Partners built in 2002-3 with bright blue tiles.


High Road
In the 18th the road from London to Colchester, ran through Ilford. It was of Roman origin and from 1721 was controlled by the Middlesex and Essex Turnpike Trust. It remained as the main road until 1925, when Eastern Avenue was opened.
204-212 Site of The Vine Congregational church. This was called Ilford High Road church and was founded in 1892 by the Metropolitan District Committee of the London Congregational Union. In 1894 an iron church was opened in the High Road and in 1895 a large hall was also opened. Charles H. Vine became minister and remained until his death in 1930. The hall was enlarged, and in 1901 a new church was opened. In 1910 additional buildings were put up. Vine started the Men's Meeting, and other groups. After his death the High Road church was called the Vine Memorial church. In 1960 part of the site was sold and a new, smaller church built Richmond Road
229 The General. The original name is The General Havelock. It was built in 1900 Arts and Crafts style with a corner tower
246-250 The Premier Electric Theatre was opened in 1911with a tall tower topped by a dome. In 1921, it was operated by Prince’s Electric Theatres Ltd. and from 1922 by Premier Super Cinemas Ltd. It closed 1925. The building was taken over Mecca Dancing Ltd. and opened as the Palais De Dance in 1925. In 1959 a new plain facade was built, and it became the Palais Dancehall. Bill Haley and His Comets appeared there as did The Who, The Kinks and The Small Faces. It was called in the 1970’s, and taken over by the Rank Organisation it became a nightclub named Fifth Avenue, and then Jumpin' Jacks. It was demolished in 2008, and a housing development named Vision20 was built there.
231-251 Shops.  Some of this site was the Thompson Rooms. In 1846 Nancy and Eleanor Thompson of Clements built an infant department for the Barking Church School Committee. It bore a tablet 'To God and the Church, 1846' with a gabled front in yellow brick and was later used as public rooms. The gabled facade was in yellow brick, in a 'Tudor' style. It was demolished for the current shops in 1966
Reading Room. In 1858 Eleanor Thompson built a reading room behind the infants’ school.  This was for run by the master of the National school, who educational and entertainments events there. In 1863 it housed a mechanics' institute. In 1954 it was sold and became the Little Theatre. The Little Theatre, Ilford, was run as a weekly 'rep', for eleven months a year, by eight amateur companies. It was replaced by the Kenneth More Theatre.
Drill Hall. This was built in 1872 at the rear of the Thompson Rooms also the gift of Eleanor Thompson. It became the headquarters of the first Volunteer Battalion, Essex Regiment. In the 1960s it became a youth club and roller-skating rink.
Lucana Temperance Billiard Hall, one of a chain built and managed by a specialist company
255-259 Lynton House council offices of the 1960s. Concrete faced in rough, dark aggregate.
261-275 Ilford Retail Park. This included Fitness First and Lidl. On the site of a United Dairies Depot. In the 1920s there was a private bus garage here for the Gretna Bus Company which was also called Paterson Omnibus Co.
270-294 Ilford police station. Built in 1995. 
290-296 Bal-Ami Jukeboxes were made here in the 1950s. It was also the headquarters of the Balfour (Marine) Engineering Company
300-310 Passage to India. This was a cinema, bingo hall and then a music venue and now a banqueting complex serving the Asian community since 2001. The foyer was used as a pub called the Overdraft but was later closed. It was built for the Associated British Cinemas circuit designed by their house architect William R. Glen as the Regal opening in July 1937. There was a Compton 3Manual/6Rank theatre organ. In 1962 it was re-named ABC and in 1973 converted into a triple screen. It closed in 1984 and was converted into a bingo club, later taken over by Granada Theatres. It closed as a bingo club in 1989 but in 1992 when it became ‘The Island’, holding live pop concerts. By 2001 it was a banqueting hall which remains called the Prabas Banqueting Suite. For a whole the balcony area was the Ilford Cinema screening Bollywood films.
316 City Gates Christian Centre.  Characterful, former Billiard Hall and club with glazed terracotta and a Greek acroterion crest.  This building has been in use by the City Gates Evangelical Church, previously Elim Church, for many years. They have moved out but their new building collapsed before it was finished and they are using temporary accommodation nearby. The future of their old building is unclear
322 Ilford Baptist Church Built 1907 by George Baines & Son.  With a big window to the street. The church can trace its roots back to preachers here in the 1830s.
323 London Tigers Community Centre.  Charity offering opportunities to disadvantaged young people, largely through sports.
St Peter and St Paul. Roman Catholic Church built 1898-9 by R.L. Cunis. In1895 a Roman Catholic mission was set up by the ex-chaplain of Ilford Hospital. A temporary iron church was built in Ilford Lane, and a permanent church followed
324 Ilford Catholic club. Also called the Guildhall as a venue for music events. After the Great War a group began to get together a football team and were allocated two rooms in the adjacent school as a clubhouse and Ilford Catholic Men’s Social Club was set up. At the same time the Ilford Catholic War Memorial Committee were fund raising for an institute. From1922 ladies were admitted. In 1924 the current premises were purchased at auction, having been a car showroom.  The club house was opened in 1924 by the Lord Mayor of London and named Ilford Guildhall.  The club then continued to expand and to add buildings and facilities. In the Second World War the club was requisitioned for government use.
St. Peter and St. Paul's Roman Catholic junior and infant schools originated in 1900 through the work of Canon Patrick Palmer as the first Catholic school in Ilford . In 1961 it was re-organized for juniors and infants. The School is now in Gordon Road in new buildings. The High Street buildings are now the Cardinal Heenan Centre.
326 Cardinal Heenan Centre. Catholic community centre next to the church mainly in the buildings of the school. Facing the wall is a stone plaque depicting young people.
370-372 Ilford Spiritualist Church. This was the Ilford Unitarian church. This originated in 1906. And a church opened in here in 1909.The Building suffered bomb damage in 1943, and re-opened in 1949. It closed in 1979.
374-376 factory building and house. Also says it is Aladdin’s Shisha Bar.
400 Gurdwara Karamsar. Sikh temple of sandstone from Rajistan carved by Rajistani stone masons with domes and god insignia.  Built by Narinder Singh Assi 2005. This replaces a previous building converted from a Labour Party Hall.
426 St.Mary the Virgin. The parish church was built in 1829-31, on land given by John Scrafton Thompson of Clements. It stands in a large graveyard, and is a brick building designed by James Savage, with a wide galleried nave. The tower was built in 1866 as a memorial to John and Elizabeth Davis of Cranbrook and partly demolished 1950.  There was an uncompleted scheme to rebuild in the 20th leaving a large chancel, grafted on to an existing building.
450 Charter House. Office block built on the site of St Mary’s Parish Hall. This had originally been a school built in 1830 by the Barking Church School Committee on a site called Cricklewood. It was first called the Cricklewood School and was a National Society School. The school was closed in 1922 and the buildings demolished in 1964 to be replaced by Charter House.
452 Dreams Bed Store with a snooker hall upstairs. This was built as the Ilford Borough Electricity Offices. Opened in 1931 by the Ilford UDC and designed by L.E.J. Reynolds, Borough Surveyor.  Steel frame building, in Portland stone. With deep window bays to the ground-floor showrooms. 
460 Fire station
531-535 Hotshots Bowling


Holstock Road
Vine Church Hall.



Ley Street
Railway Cottages. Between Academy Roofing Supplies depot and the staff railway yard entrance, and backing on to the railway is a terrace of houses of mixed age and style. Of these 23 of the oldest were built in the 1897 and 1902 by the Great Eastern Railway Company on their land for staff at the Ilford Goods Yard.
293-297 Panjabi Centre. This is the Redbridge Panjabi Sabhiacharik (Cultural) Sabha formed in 1983.  At that time a petition was got together with the help of London East Gurdwara Singh Sabha (Sikh Temple). Following that a great deal of fund raising ensued. In 1984 a grant from the Greater London Council allowed them to buy an old print factory to become the Panjabi Centre which was formally inaugurated in 1985.
284-294 Costello Bespoke Tailors. Making uniforms and theatrical clothing.
308 The Bell. Pub which dates from at least the 1850s. Seems to be a bit rough.

Park Road
Tulse Arms. Built in 1905 by Foulham & Riches in red terracotta. Now closed and in use as a shop.

Railway
The line had been built from 1839. It went through flat fields in a continuous low cutting. From 1899 the line was quadrupled for the whole of this stretch following an agreement with developer, Cameron Corbett. The two extra lines fitted in where possible, and bridges upgraded as a consequence.
Brickfield Siding. This probably dated from the 1840s and lay east of Ilford on the down side. It was removed by 1882
Ilford Goods Yard. This was on the up side east of Ilford and was built from 1881. It had two sidings parallel to the main line and a signal box called Ilford Brickfield Sidings, later Ilford Goods Yard. In 1893 the public goods yard at Ilford Station closed and therefore this yard was expanded – and a goods shed, three sidings and cattle pens were added. A footbridge ran right across the site. The goods yard closed in 1968 although a siding to the United Dairies depot remained open.
Carriage sidings. Eight sidings were built in 1898 and survived in their original form until the 1930s. Water supply to them was installed in 1900 with an artesian well, tank, pump and engine house.
Ilford Carriage Sidings signal box built in 1882 to replace Ilford Goods Yard box.
Coal Depot. This opened in 1900 as part of the Goods Yard
Loco shed. This dated from 1900
Electric Car Sheds. These are on the site of the carriage sidings and loco sheds closed in and removed in the 1940s.
Signal boxes to control the 1890s goods developments were removed in 1947 and replaced by boxes at Ilford Car Sheds. These have now gone to be replaced with the Liverpool Street resignalling scheme in the 1990s.
Cauliflower Pit or High Road Pit. This lay north of the railway line. John Gibson tried to excavate a complete skeleton of an elephant in 1824 but was unsuccessful. In the 1830s the pit provided the clay for the railway’s bricks. Bones were successfully removed by Gibson with the cooperation of Thomas Curtis, the brickworks owner. The Cauliflower pit was still in operation in 1898.

Riches Road
The Vine Church. This is a church build in 1961 on part of the site of the earlier Vine Church in the High Road sold for redevelopment. The church is now part of the Vine United Reformed Church.

Stanley Road
127-129 Firmco. Firmin House. Refurbishment and construction specialist company.

Sunnyside Road
101 currently a clothing factory this has been an engineering works and a laundry

Sylvan Road
Redbridge Foyer ATP Group Partnership for East Thames Housing designed to provide small flats and an integrated centre for disadvantaged young people.  Similarly lively ranges in yellow brick with metal-clad upper storeys.  Turreted stair tower.
Bus stand. This appears to be on the site of Tyne Hall, a gentleman’s house dating from at least the early 19th and demolished after 1940.  Residents included, in the 1860s, and enthusiast for silk worm culture. It appears to also have been used as a school.


Thompson Close
Redbridge Enterprise Centre.


Winston Way
Relief road built in 1985.


Sources
Brennand. Ilford to Shenfield.
British History On line Web site.
Closed Pubs. Web site
Clunn. The Face of London
English Heritage. Web site.
Field. London Place Names
Gordon Infants School. Web site
Ilford Catholic Club. Web site
London Borough of Redbridge. Web site
London Railway Record.
London Tigers. Web site
Nature Conservation in Barking and Dagenham
St.Mary’s Ilford. Web site
Unitarian History. Web site
Victoria County History. Essex
Walford. Village London.

Saturday, 16 August 2014

Great Eastern Railway from Liverpool Street to Shenfield. Great Ilford


River Roding
The Roding flows southwards and is joined by the Aldersbrook from the west

Great Eastern Railway from Liverpool Street to Ilford - and on to Shenfield
The Great Eastern Railway running north eastwards from Manor Park Station arrives at Ilford and onwards.

Post to the north Valentines
Post to the west Aldersbrook
Post to the south Little Ilford
Post to the east Ilford

Albert Road
St Alban’s Church. A brick Gothic church by J.E.K. and J.P. Cutts. The first church built for Ilford's rapidly growing suburbs between 1892 and 1912, and one of the Bishop of St Alban’s ‘London-over-the-border' churches.  It was built in 1906 to replace a temporary building.  It contains a hexagonal pulpit from 1700, given by All Souls Oxford in 1949.
52-6 Ilford Islamic Centre and Mosque.  It has been on this site since 1977. Built in red brick, with tall arches
Oakfield Lodge. Built 1983 by Redbridge Architects Dept, project architect: Norman Turner.  It is a care home originally built for disabled children.  Single-storey pavilions, grouped around courts, in brick

Audrey Road
2-4 Church of the Latter Day Saints

Balfour Road
Part of Ilford Lodge Estate. This 19th area had been part of the Valentines estate. In 1797-8 it was sold separately. In 1882 it was acquired for building by the IIford Land Co. and bought, by James W. Hobbs, a Croydon builder associated with Jabez Balfour – after whom the road is named. When his Liberator Building Society collapsed in 1892, Hobbs was tried for fraud and was sentenced. The IIford Lodge Estate was later sold.
2-4 Wilkinson store. They sell ‘Home Goods’ in a building previously used by Woolworths but built for CandA on the site of the Ilford Super Cinema.  It has an angled corner tower faced with fluted panels.  .
Ilford Super Cinema was opened in 1922, by Premier Super Cinemas Ltd. and designed by William E. Trent with Val Prince for the inside. It showed film and variety performances. It was taken over by Provincial Cinematograph Theatres in 1924 and by Gaumont British Cinemas in 1929. It had a Compton 3Manual/8Ranks organ and a popular restaurant. In 1945 a V2 damaged the rear of the cinema and the roof collapsed.  Two usherettes were killed and the building was unsafe and boarded up. It was finally demolished in 1959.
112 Ilford Muslim Society. This was formed in 1978. Masjid-E-Da'watul Islam, also known as Balfour Road Mosque

Barking Relief Road
This is part of the A406, North Circular Road. The background to it is fairly checkered involving various, since cancelled, ringway plans. This eastern section was part of proposed Ringway 2. This was originally planned as a motorway, the M15, but although it was cancelled part of its route was built in the 1980s as an extension of the A406.

Chadwick Road
1 I-Scene Leisure Complex. This includes the Cineworld Ilford which opened in 2002.
Telephone Exchange.  This was built in 1911 by Edward of H.M. Office of Works.
2 Royal Mail Sorting Office and Post Office

Chapel Road
This bypass road is made up of bits of a number of older roads, including Ilford Lane
1 Black Horse. This closed in 2012 and is now a betting shop. The original pub dated from at least the 1870s but this was a post war rebuild.
Ilford Hippodrome.  When this was extant it was on Ilford Lane at the corner of High Road – the site is now in Chapel Road and was partly covered by the now defunct Black Horse  The Hippodrome opened in 1909 was built for Walter Gibbons chain; London Theatres of Variety Ltd. It had a terra-cotta frontage along Ilford Lane in a Moorish style. Above the entrance was a minaret. Inside the ceiling was said to resemble the Palace of Versailles. It was a playhouse and a variety theatre and able to screen films from the start. In the 1930’s it became part of Metropolitan and Provincial Cinematograph Theatres Ltd. With a Western Electric sound system. Many top artistes of the day appeared here including Max Miller, Flanagan & Allen, Gracie Fields, Vera Lynn, George Formby etc.  In 1945 during the Lew Grade produced "Robinson Crusoe" a V2 rocket fell behind theatre, killing 15 and demolished the dressing rooms.  The orchestra played on and the audience left. Two days later, the roof collapsed. The ruins were demolished in 1957, after some of the facade fell onto a trolleybus. Offices and shops were later built here.
19-20 Maguire’s Irish Bar

Clements Lane
Melcombe Lodge 18th house
Pioneer Market.  This stood on the corner of Clements Lane and Ilford Lane. It was a prototype shopping mall, built in the 1920 with a maze of corridors, and individual shops. Said to be art deco but now demolished.

Clements Road
Until 1814 this was part of Green Lane with Potato and onion fields up to the 1840s.
Clements. The Clements estate was developed in the early 19th and in 1847 covered an area from Ilford Lane. A John Clement had been here in 1456. By 1878 the 56- acre estate was mortgaged, and put up for sale. It was mainly built up in the next 20 years.  Some was built by Withers of Ilford Hall and some by Cameron Corbett.
Clements Farm. This farm lay roughly on the site of the current leisure centre.
Brickfield. In the early 19th there were several brickfields in this area.  One of these belonged to John Scrafton Thompson and was part of the Clements estate.
IScene Leisure Complex is situated on Clements Road, Ilford. The scheme houses an 11 screen Cineworld cinema, restaurants, hotel and a gym
9 Post Office
15 Salvation Army Hall. The Salvation Army had a hall behind High Road by 1887. They were active in the 1890s and about 1901 opened the present hall.
Spiritualist church.  In 1903 the Ilford Spiritualists were met in Clock House Hall. Their present church in Clements Road was licensed in 1933 and visited by Conan Doyle. Ilford Spiritualist Church is now in the High Road
Central Library.  This was opened in 1986 and was designed by D.J. & H T. Lawrence, Borough Architects.  It is an island site with a copper-clad roof. On h stairs is abstract stained glass by Goddard and Gibbs.
Redbridge Museum. This is on the second floor of the library.
Virgin Active Health Club. This has now been taken over by Nuffield.
London Ilford Travelodge
Elim Four Square Tabernacle.  This is recorded from 1926. This has more recently been the City Gates Centre and has been demolished.
City Gates Church building. The Church began as a tin shack in the 1930’s ad has since had a building in the High Road. In 2009, planning permission was granted for a new 1,000 seat, Worship Centre. This fell down while under construction in January 2012

Clements Lane
Clements Court flats
1-4 Clements Yard, Clements farm cottages demolished in the 1930s for a car park for the Hippodrome. Now part of Clements Court site. They appear to have been part of an older Clements farmhouse converted into four cottages. This building had an oak and hornbeam frame, dating from the 16th. There were indications of Tudor additions to an earlier building.

Cleveland Road
Ilford Health Centre. Built in 1989 by Avanti Architects on a cruciform plan with steel frame.
Cleveland Road Board School. This was opened in 1896 designed by Charles Dawson. It was originally a county junior and infants' schools. It was the largest erected by the school board and in 1931 It was re-organized for juniors and infants – and it remains as two separate schools.
Ilford Hindu Centre. This was originally the Friends Meeting House of 1908 designed by Charles Dawson. The Ilford Friends' Meeting was formed in 1906 in a temporary building and a permanent meeting house was erected later

Coventry Road
Ilford Federation Synagogue. It was founded in 1927 but has now moved to the Gants Hill area, although some commemorative plaques remain on the building.
2-8 Ilford Ursuline Preparatory School. Private Roman Catholic school. This originated in 1889 when two Ursuline Sisters who were teaching locally were asked by the priest at St Peter and St. Paul, for help in establishing a secondary school.  In 1903 "Hainault", a house in Cranbrook Road was rented and opened as a school. In 1906 Heathfield, the adjacent house, was bought. In 1936 no.2 was bought to use as a primary school.
6 this was bought during the second world war as a home for the nuns teaching at the school and thus became the Ursuline Convent.  There was some bomb damage.  These building are now part of the school.
10 this remains as a small Ursuline convent.

Cranbrook Road
Clock Tower - this stood in the 1920s at the bottom of Cranbrook Road on the area known as the Broadway. It had been donated by MP Peter Griggs. It was removed in the 1930s and taken to South Park.
Ilford Station.  This now stands with the main entrance in Cranbrook Road – this part of the road was once called Station Road. It was opened in 1839 by the Eastern Counties Railway on what has become the Great Eastern Main Line. It lies between Seven Kings and Manor Park. The line was built from Mile End in 1838 but not opened until works at Romford finished. The main building is thought to date from the 1839 opening.  It originally had only two platforms but in 1894 the station was rebuilt with guarantees by developer Corbett, as part of the promotion for the Grange housing estate.  From 1903 to 1947 Great Eastern trains also ran from here to Woodford via the Fairlop Loop which was transferred to London Transport and is now part of the Central line. It was rebuilt again in the 1980s. There are five platforms all below street level: two "up" to Liverpool Street and two "down” plus a bay for services starting here. Two other Platforms are disused. The platforms built in the 1890s have distinctive GER ironwork brackets to the awnings. In 1911 a bridge was built across the platforms to facilitate the transfer of milk churns and the bridge was later used for parcels. It was demolished in the 1980s.
28-32 Santander Bank. This is a corner block with a dome, with a great deal of carved decoration of fruit. It was built 1900 with for the National Provincial Bank.
37 Jonos Bar. Free house pub
46 Redeemed Church of God, Embassy of Faith, with shops on the ground floor. This was originally West's department store.  It has giant columns and a classical appearance.
45 Lloyds Bank with a curved front Portland Stone by Johnson and Astbury, built in 1932.  This appears to be closed
47 Punjab National Bank
51-71 this is the site of Langsett where the Ilford Ltd Photographic business began, as Britannia Works, in 1879 Alfred H. Harman, a professional photographer from  Peckham was experimenting with the production of the new gelatino-bromide 'dry' plates. He went to Ilford to manufacture these because of the clean air. He renamed Langsett as 'Britannia Works', and he and his wife began to produce the plates. Later he rented building elsewhere and the Ilford factory and business grew - however the emulsion still prepared with great secrecy at the Britannia Works.
51-71 Burnes furniture store was bought by Chiesmans, who owned a chain of drapery stores. Chiesmans were bought out by the House of Frazer group in 1976.
55-57 East Side Bar
60-64 Fairheads Department Store. Drapers shop which closed in 2008 after trading for 100 years
100 British Heart Foundation shop. This is on the site of a Baptist church opened in 1899 on a site bought eight years earlier by the High Road Baptists, but conveyed to the London Baptist Association. Second World War incendiary bombs damaged the building.
Cranbrook Lodge. This was a large house once known as Cranbrook Cottage. The site had been part of Rayhouse estate until 1806. The house, built before 1835, became Cranbrook College, a private school for boys. The house was demolished in 1923 when new college buildings were put up.
Ursuline Convent School. The school now based in Coventry Road began in two houses here – Hainault and Heathfield – the sites of which are now part of the school.
109-127 Saravana Bhavan in what was previously Yates Wine Lodge
114-116 The Great Spoon of Ilford. This is a Wetherspoon's pub. The name is about the Elizabethan actor, Will Kemp, who danced his way from Norwich to London in 1600. He stopped in Ilford for a 'spoon' of ale.
180 Army Careers Office. This has now closed.
182 Venue 3. This is what was the Cranbrook pub.

Granville Road
Kings Church. This was built as the church hall for St Clements Church and called Cecil Hall.  It was built in 1907 and designed by C.J.Dawson. It was laid out with classrooms, games rooms and a first floor hall. It has since become an evangelical church called variously Kings Church and Jubilee Church.
13 Indigo Project. This is a Barnardo’s charity for holiday activity for special needs children.  Site of the vicarage for St.Clement’s church.

High Road
The road is part of the London to Colchester Road Turnpike of 1721 run by the Middlesex and Essex turnpike Trust. It was pedestrianised in 1987 after the opening of the ring road.
96-98 the Cinema DeLuxe was opened in 1911 and made up of two shops. It closed in around 1926, and went back to being a shop.
Clements Mansion. This stood on the High Street roughly at the west side of the corner with Clements Road.
Methodist church. The (Wesleyan) Methodist church began in 1883. Land was bought in and iron building put up in 1884, followed by a permanent church in 1895 A school hall was later added. In 1959 the members joined with the Ilford Lane Methodist church, and in 1961 moved into a new building in Ilford Lane. The High Road church was demolished. It was on the corner of Clements Road – somewhere round the site of Clements Mansion.
58 Shop built for Burton’s menswear in the early 1930s. It has a grey stone facade and Deco styling of the house. In other use
93 Barclays Bank - this is site of The White Horse pub which closed in 1959
109 site of The Angel. This was a former coaching inn dating from at least the late 18th which closed in the 1980s. The premises became a Burger bar and later a clothes shop. A replacement Angel was built at the back - but that also changed its name.
120 Burton’s store of 1930, streamlined Moderne in white faience,
Ilford Hall. This was on the corner with Hainault Street.  It was a 19th house used as a girl’s school by 1898. It was later used by Ilford Urban District Council for meetings and demolished in 1901. The site is now shops.
128-142 Town Hall for the new Ilford Urban District Council. Built in 1899-1901 by Ben Woollard in Bath stone following a competition.  With additions done in 1931-3 by L.E.J.Reynolds, with steel frame with Bath stone façade. The building is in two halves – one ceremonial and one for business and all were connected by means of a speaking tube. Inside is an elliptical lobby with curved doors and a monumental stair to the old council chamber and committee rooms. There is also a back staircase with a tiled dado.Council Chamber. This has been redone but much remains. Some seating is said to be from former the Ilford Council, and some from Wanstead and Woodbridge.  There is walnut panelling and, in the centre of the floor, a parquetry sunburst pattern by Hollis Bros. in walnut, and oak.Mayor's Parlour. This has a bow window and a plaster ceiling, by Waring & Gillow. Refreshment Room called the Lambourne Room, with Deco treatment. Bronze Boer war memorial over inner doors. It is signed by Sterling Dudley and E. Hirch.Members' Room. Oak-panelled. Public Hall. This was built for 700 people and is a, rectangular, space. There is a balcony and a stage with proscenium arch. In 1931-3 orchestra pit was added
193-207 Harrison Gibson’s furniture store. John Harrison Gibson opened his first store in Ilford 1902 and made furniture to a high standard.  The store was badly damaged by fire in 1959 and replaced by a building by Forrest and Barber with a night club on the top floor. The store closed in 2004 and the building is in other use.

Ilford Hill
Ilford Bridge. This carries the main road from London to Colchester. The road crossing two bridges: one over the Aldersbrook and over the Roding with a causeway between them. They were called collectively 'Ilford Bridge'. In the middle ages it was maintained by a hermit who lived alongside and used donations from travellers. The medieval Roding Bridge was structure with three 13th pointed arches. In the late 16th the bridges were in such disrepair that Quarter Sessions were urged to repair them at the cost of the City of London. In 1759-64 the larger bridge was rebuilt in brick and was replaced in 1904. The bridge was the limit of commercial navigation on the Roding from 1765.
Aldersbrook bridge – this as described in 1858 as 'an ancient iron structure'. Aldersbrook diverted to join the Roding 100 yards. North of the new bridge and now runs parallel with Romford Road and the bridge was removed.
Ilford House Academy. School on the site of Ilford’s first school. The Academy was 1824-1870.
2-4 Beckett’s House. Office block from the early 1990s housing several NHS departments.
11 Mill House. BT building. This has 11 floors and was built in 2006.
16 Rose and Crown. This is one of several inns which were established where the Roman Road crossed the Roding and continued to Colchester.  This was the nearest to the river. The pub was remodelled in 1897 to the designs of C Foulsham and H Riches.  The elevation to Ilford Hill is almost unchanged from that date.  It has been closed for some years. 16 Rose and Crown.  The pub name symbolises the union of York and Lancaster in the marriage of Henry VI and Elizabeth of York
28 Roller skating rink which opened in 1909 and was 22,000 feet square feet. It could take 1,000 skaters and 2,000 spectators. It was used for roller hockey – and hosted the international championships and had the world’s top team. In 1917 During the Great War the site was used by Oakley Ltd made three Sopwith Triplanes there. After the war it was used as a Whist Drive Hall, and demolished 1939-1947.
39 Peachy House flats. This is a 19-storey former office building called the iCon Building, now converted to flats. London St. Andrews College – another private business school.
40 old Police Station now in other use. Built in 1906 by John Butler in red brick.
42 Conservative Club.  Built in 1930. The Conservative - or the Constitutional – Club was formed about 1881, and previously use the old parsonage house attached to the hospital.
48 Chaplains House to the Hospital.
4a The Hospital - almshouses  This is the Hospital of St Mary and St Thomas of Canterbury lying behind a high brick wall, it is the oldest building in the London Borough of Redbridge. It now consists of the Chapel plus almshouses on each side which were rebuilt to allow for road widening by F.W Speaight with W.J. Kieffer and H.S. Fleming in 1927. They are now converted into modern flats.  It was founded in 1145 by Adelicia Abbess of Barking, as a hospice for 13 aged and infirm men. By 1219 it was admitting lepers. The Abbey of Barking was dissolved in 1539 but the Ilford Hospital Chapel had its own endowments and survived, probably because it was a chapel-of-ease as well as a hospice. It passed into the hands of the Crown who leased the mastership and this passed to a number of local gentry – originally and predominately the Fanshawe family but eventually passed to the Cecils. In 1982 the late Lord Salisbury handed the property to the diocese of Chelmsford and they set up the Abbess Adelicia Charity to take over the administration.
The Chapel was originally dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin. Later Mary Becket became Abbess and she arranged for the name of her brother, Thomas à Becket, to be added to the dedication as St.Thomas. The nave and chancel of the present building were built during the 14th. From the Middle Ages it was used for public worship as well as by the hospital inmates. In the 18th Bamber Gascoyne renovated the ChapelI in 1889-90, when the Lady Chapel, organ loft and vestry were added.  The communion rail is early 20th and is of-wrought iron with concealed gas lighters along it.  The outer windows are by Morris & Co., c. 1891 showing St Valentine, designed by Burne-Jones, in memory of Clement Ingleby of Valentines.  It is still in use as a church.
The Master's house. The Hospital was governed by a Master, appointed by the Abbess, who had large house to the east which was demolished in 1905.  It seems to have been used as a pub called the Green Man.
50 Natwest Bank.  Corner building which has become a landmark.
51 – 69 Valentines. Office block built 1988 formerly used by British Gas – the police are among the current occupants. It replaced the buildings of the Biograph Theatres Ltd which had opened in 1911 and closed in 1921. It was later used as a discotheque and demolished in 1973.
71 Red Lion.  The pub closed in 2005 and now seems to be the If Bar or Lush. It has also been recently called: Lloyds No. 1, Mainstreet, The Greene Castle, Blah-blahs, and the Rat & Carrot. It is a real 18th building but it was altered around.1850. In the 1870s it housed the local fire appliances - Leather hoses, for fire-fighting and in 1884 a fire-escape ladder.
The entrance to Ilford Station was originally at the back of the Red Lion pub. An access road to the station from Ilford Hill is now adapted as the station car park.
Pyruma Works, J.H.Sankey. Pyruma was a plastic fire cement with many industrial and construction applications as well as use as a modelling clay.

Ilford Lane
An old main road which linked London to Tilbury Fort leaving the Colchester road here and running south to Barking. It was at one time called Barking Lane.
Methodist church. A dispute among local Methodist church - the Reform controversy of 1849–51 - led to the establishment of a United Methodist Free chapel here and a church was built in 1867. In 1902 a new church was built. Designed by F. W.Dixon. The old church was used as a Sunday school until 1932 when a new hall was built. The church was bombing in the Second World War.  The congregation then joined with a Methodist church needing in the High Road and in 1961 the current church was built here on Ilford Lane.
Hall. This was built as a Sunday school in 1932 to replace a previous building.
Uphall Pit. The site of the Uphall Pit was marked by a bronze plaque on the front wall of the Methodist Church Hall erected by the Borough Council in 1951 for the Festival of Britain. this was stolen and has been replaced. The Pit was between here and the Roding and produced fossils as from 1812. Bones were found at a depth of about 5 metres and it was the site of the discovery of the skull of the ‘Ilford mammoth’ in 1863 regarded as the most complete mammoth skull ever found in Britain. Another find in 1865 was the complete skull of a woolly rhinoceros and also the complete and perfect tusk of a very young elephant.
Empire Kinema. This was on the west side of the road north of Audrey Road. It was the first purpose built cinema operated by Alexander Bernstein, founder of the Granada chain. It opened in 1913 and had a stage and dressing rooms. In 1931, it became part of the Ben Jay circuit. In 1940, it was hit by a German incendiary bomb. It was later demolished and is now under the new road layout.
Clements Estate Pit. This was on the east side of Ilford Lane and being worked in 1812. It produced many fossils including two tusks and a mammoth thigh bone. The pit had closed before 1860.

Kenneth More Road
Kenneth More Theatre. Opened in 1974. This is Ilford's civic theatre, named after the actor, Kenneth More. The Studio Theatre is included for experimental work and was re-named the Cowan Studio in 2001. The Theatre has devoted half of its programming to local amateur companies.  It was designed by the Redbridge Architect's Dept project architect: Jack Lewis.  It has a copper-clad auditorium roof and a short fly tower.

Ley Street
The Exchange shopping centre. Set up by Chapman Taylor in 1988-91. It is the main retail shopping mall in the town centre. It has three levels of retail but its lower floor is divided into two separate parts. The entrance from Cranbrook Road is through a gigantic arch. Presented as an Indian temple. There was once a granite floating sphere and a wishing fountain which have gone.
104 Red Cow pub. Closed

Lugg Approach
London Underground Construction Academy. This is at Aldersbrook sidings and provides a training establishment for Crossrail. Opened in 2011.
Bridge over the Aldersbrook built as part of Crossrail.
Aldersbrook House. This was a British Railways staff hostel and training centre. Now gone

Mildmay Road
This is what was Oakfield Road now south of Winston Way with an underpass between
2-4 Mildmay Neighbourhood Learning Centre. The English Academy in Ilford Presbyterian church
Ilford Presbyterian church was set up in 1896, in an iron building. The permanent church was built in 1903. The organ, installed in 1905, had been built in 1820 for the church of St. Mary, Moorfields

Mill Road
South Essex Water Works.  Both The East London and the South Essex Waterworks Companies had powers to supply water to Ilford. Mains were extended to Ilford during the 1870s and 80s and, they divided the district between them, the South Essex Company supplying the eastern part of the area.  Buildings were erected here in 1905 and there was also a high chimney on the site.
Ilford Paper Mill, This business, which gave its name to Mill Street, appears to have been founded by William Simpson and Co., but later passed through the hands of several owners. Paper making was carried out here from c.1862 – c.1923.
Rail bridge over the road and a short siding for local coal merchants. Road under is in a tunnel
Ilford West Junction and signal box. The box closed in 1949.

Moreland Road
Ursuline Academy. This is a Roman Catholic secondary school and sixth form for girls. It was originally Ilford Ursuline High School founded in 1903 by the Ursulines. Beginning in a rented house in Cranbrook Road where two Ursuline nuns taught. The premises expanded and a new school building was erected at the end of the garden facing Morland Road. The pupils moved into the new premises in 1908. Over the years, more buildings were added and a tennis court and an asphalted playground were added to the games facilities in what had been the garden. Under the 1944 Education Act the school acquired Direct Grant status but from 1979 it was necessary for fees to be levied from parents. The secondary school is now a four stream comprehensive Science College. The primary school is in Coventry Road.

Oakfield Road
Fire Station. A volunteer fire-brigade was formed in 1890 and in 1893 a fire-station was built here and a steam fire-engine bought
Central Library.  Built as part of the Town Hall complex 1926-7 by Herbert Shaw, the Borough Engineer.  It is now used as offices.

Park Avenue
St Clements church, site. The church was built between 1889 and 1896 by the Cutts Brothers on land given by Mrs. Clement Ingleby of Valentines. In 1902 it was the main church in place of St.Mary's. It was a gothic style red-brick building and a bell-cote containing one bell. It was demolished in 1977

Riverdene Road
This was previously Uphall Road.

Roden Street
Was previously called Back Lane. In the 17th there were a few houses on the south side
57 Papermakers Arms aka The Sheepwalk Inn.
Mill House, Victor Wharf. This is now a development site but it seems latterly to have been use by waste and scrap dealers. A crane on the wharf was associated with a local brickworks
55 Sainsbury on the Britannia works site
60-70 former Britannia Music site development including 332 residential units in a series of blocks with a 23 storey landmark tower on the corner of Chapel Road and Ilford Hill. BBritannia Music Club (1969-2007) was a British mail-order company owned by PolyGram which sponsored the Brit Awards. The company was acquired by Universal Music Group as part of PolyGram in 1998, and closed in 2007
Britannia Works - Ilford Ltd., The firm which made photographic materials, was founded in 1879 by Alfred H. Harman, a professional photographer who was producing gelatino-bromide 'dry' plates. He came to Ilford because of the clean air and initially operated from a house in Cranbrook Road. He then rented cottages on the Clyde estate, where the Ilford Plate factory and head office were later located, and there the plates were coated and packed.  It became a private limited company in 1891, and in 1898 a public company with a nominal capital of £38,000. In 1906 Col. Ivor Philipps became chairman and remained as such until his death in 1940 and was largely responsible for the progress of the firm. Between 1917 and 1929 Ilford acquired many rival companies paper, sold as 'Ilford P.O.P.', was made by the company from its early days and later the material for films. After the Second World War they extension into foreign markets. By 1954 the company had factories at Ilford, Brentwood, Leyton and Watford. The factor closed in 1976. The company later operated from Cheshire.

Roding River
Recorded as Roding in the 16th which is from Roding in Essex – originally meaning a 'settlement of a man called Hroth’ . Before the 16th it was known as the ‘Hile’ .The river may have started as a melt water channel in the Ice Age. There are signs that it has tended to shift eastwards.  From Ilford Bridge to the branching out of Back River the Roding runs fairly straight, forming the parish boundary throughout.  This suggests that the wall that protects Little Ilford Levels to the west is of ancient origin. The wall against East Ham Marsh was certainly there in the 14th. Recently some of the westward meanders of the Roding have been occluded
Ilford Navigation. In order to facilitate navigation to Ilford from Barking some improvements were made to the river Roding. The navigation ran northwards for just over a mile and a half from Barking to Ilford. It was a successful concern until around the 1920's when traffic declined and It is not known when the last boat traded to Ilford – maybe in the 1930's. Since 1961 there has been a Barking and Ilford Navigation Company

Romford Road
A toll gate stood to the west of Ilford Bridge and a toll house on the northern side of the road survived until 1900 as the Little Wonder Coffee House.

Station Road
This was once Havelock Road but renamed Station Road – the original Station Road s now part of
Cranbrook Lane.
Bodger's department store established in 1890 and rebuilt here in 1914 as an arcade.  The range facing Station Road with a screen of columns.  The end to Cranbrook Road is a rebuilding, with an unattractive sloping corner.

Wellesley Road
Cranbrook Baptist Church

Winston Way
Part of the A118. This new stretch opened in 1985, running south and bypassing the town centre.
Pioneer Point, this replaced Pioneer Market. It consists of two interlinked towers of 31 floors built in 2011 by Empire Property Group.

York Mews
Ilford Station. There was also a rear entrance open peak hours only, from which the London end of the platform can be reached via a footbridge which was rebuilt in 1978.  This was added following an agreement with developer Cameron Corbett.   A booking office here was closed in 1991 and a LNER passimeter removed

Sources
Barking and District Historical Society. Web site
Business Cavalcade of London
Brennand. Ilford to Shenfield
Cinema Theatres Association. Newsletter
Cinema Treasures. Web site
Closed Pubs. Web site
Clunn. The Face of London
Connor. Liverpool Street to Ilford
English Heritage. Web site
Essex Journal
Friends of the Earth. Gasworks in London
Ilford Historical Society. Web site
Ilford Recorder. Web site.
Ilford Muslim Society. Web site
James. The Chemical Industry in Essex
London Borough of Redbridge. Web site
Lost Pubs. Web site
Nature Conservation in Newham
Pevsner and Cherry.  Essex
Sabre Wiki Roaders Digest. Web site
Skyscraper News, Web site
St. Alban’s Church. Web site
Thames Basin Archaeology of Industry Group
Victoria County History. Essex