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Suffered badly from a flying bomb and
was entirely rebuilt. Before the war there was a Jewish
reading room, two synagogues and a street of houses off Mulberry Street. reconstruction plans weren for industrial and commercial. . Named in 1913 in honour of Dr Herman Adler, Chief
Rabbi, who was a cousin of Jacob Adler, founder of the Yiddish Theatre.
Adler Hall. The New Yiddish Theatre Company, founded by Fanny Waxman, used Adler Hall from 1936, for performances. In 1946 they performed The Merchant of Venice in Yiddish.
1-13 opposite the church four-storey flatted workshops by YRM for the LCC, 1963-4. .
St Boniface R.C. German church.corner of Mulberry Street. built in 1960 on the site of the original St Boniface's German Catholic church, 1860s which was bombed. German traders in Whitechapel were mainly sugar bakers or tobacco merchants. Between 1850 and 1890 there were about 27,000 Germans living in London, the majority in here in 'Little Germany'. about a third were employed in the sugar refineries around Whitechapel. The new church was initiated by Father Felix Leuschacke, advised by T. Hermanns of Cleve; thearchitects were D. Plaskett Marshall & Partners.
Manse attached to St..Boniface. brick
Black Horse. Ceramic mural of Charrington’s Brewery dray
Mural of radical writers and anarchists by Anya Patel for the Freeform Arts Trust and the Freedom Press. Including picture of anarchist Rudolph Rocker – hero of Jewish immigrant clothing workers.
Left-wing bookshop for the Freedom Press, here is an East End institution.
The George Yard Ragged School on the opposite side of the alley was demolished for the extension of the Whitechapel Art Gallery
Back of the former St George s Brewery three giant arches with big stone keystones extending through three floors.
Around the churchyard, still conveys something of the chaotic character
of pre-war Whitechapel, with domestic terraces overtaken by the rag trade,
interspersed with modest industrial building of between the wars,
Old warehouses still line the east side of this and you follow these until a truncated stretch of viaduct appears on the left. This is all that survives of the Commercial Road branch and it follows the south side of Pinchin Street towards its former connection with the passenger line at Christian Street Junction. Once a route to the church at Whitechapel. in the earlier c19 was famous for its vast sugar bakeries, but from the 1890s came to be dominated by the impressive wool warehouses, served by the now demolished goods station built 1885-6 for the elevated London, Tilbury & Southend railway to the docks
L.C.C school. The small block in Back Church Lane was built as a cookery centre.
Peoples' Arcade demolished c1906. used to stage melodramas and boxing matches. In 1911 it was renamed 'Premierland' and from 1925 was known as the 'Premierland Boxing Hall'.
The Dog and Truck, three storeyed, with big tiled roof and tall chimneys in Arts and Crafts spirit, was rebuilt 1935 by William Stewart, with the start of the adjoining Berner Estate
Three-storey range for Kinloch & Co., wine merchants, by Hyman Henry Collins, 1894-5. Converted 1999.
New Loom House, a five-storey former wool warehouse for Messrs Browne & Eagle, 1889. Fifteen bays, divided into units of three, each with ', its own entrance. Converted to offices 1998-9; cranes and upper loading doors have been preserved.
74, a long five-storey block: c. 1900, probably by Holland & Hannen, also for Browne & Eagle. Twenty bays with a blind storey above. Loading bays in every fifth bay. doorway with the firm's name boldly engraved on the lintel
Site of a ducking pond, used for the punishment of wives, minor miscreants, while open fields stretched to the north and south. Home to the Brady Boys Club, which was opened over 100 years ago for Jewish boys, and later girls. The clubs have now moved to north London. Whitechapel Green had a pond and ducking stool and Brady Street was originally Ducking Pond Lane.
Sainsbury's. The Brewery's extensive works, were cleared for in 1993-4- By D.Y. Davies Associates,
Swanlea Secondary School By Sir Colm Stansfield Smith in association with Percy Thomas Partnership 1993, when it was the first new secondary school in London for a decade. Swanlea demonstrates the ideas of humane school design developed from the late 1970s
1a Brady Reproduction Furniture
37 Jews' Cemetery disused, containing the tomb of Nathan Meyer Rothschild d.1836, the English representative of a famous family of financiers. Ashkenazi cemetery. Also buried is Miriam Levey, who opened the very first soup kitchen in Whitechapel. The site was originally a brickfield which was leased for burials in 1761 for 12 guineas a year. Locked doors. Keepers will let you in. A large walled enclosure, founded in 1795 by the Ashkenazi community. Crowded with mainly later Victorian monuments, some of considerable lavishness and with several to members of the Rothschild family, including Nathan Meyer Rothschild 1836. Changes in ground level reflect the requirements of rabbinical law and layers of burial. There are some beautiful tombs and mausoleums. Although it was closed as a cemetery in 1858, the gardens are well maintained and it is a well hidden gem of Whitechapel.
Mocatta House. This early provision of improved housing is a tenement block by Joseph & Smithem for the Four Per Cent Industrial Dwellings Co., 1905. Built on the site of a Jewish almshouses;
JJs free house. On site of 18th coaching inn. Wooden beamed house. Was called Yorkshire Grey. Mrs. Bray’s licensee initials
St Patrick's School was built in 1848 and first used as boys' school and chapel. It was opened by Father Quiblier for Irish Catholics. He invited the Marist Fathers to take over the mission. They taught the boys and a girls' school was opened in Underwood Road, where they were taught by Mrs Mary McCarthy. In 1857 a site was acquired in Hunton (Hunt) Court and the Marist Sisters came over from France to teach the girls. The building has been refurbished into private flats.
The vicarage and church hall of All Saints" Church stood next door to the St Patrick's School building. The church was built in 1839 and demolished in 1951. The site of the church was formerly part of the workhouse of Mile End New Town. The workhouse was opened in 1783 and closed after the passing of the Poor Law Amendment Act in 1834. All Saints" Church was built in the Norman style, by architect Thomas Larkins Walker, a pupil of Pugin. There was also a school founded by the Quakers here in 1812
Nothing to do with Cambridge. Corruption of Saxon name ‘Centbeorht’.Part of heath land on a gravel plateau surrounded by marshes and considered as a ‘waste’ of Stepney Manor. Ancient house there in 1275 otherwise market gardening and hayfields. Windmill there in 1836.
Cambridge Heath Road
Site of Cambridge Heath. Site of Turnpike. Obelisk there in 1890s, Cambridge Heath to the north of the road. The dividing line between Whitechapel and Mile End Road, formerly title of Dog Lane
Bethnal Green Hospital l900. Old workhouse. Previously site of pond. Bethnal Green Infirmary Giles Gough and Trollope.
Town Hall - 1910 flamboyant Edwardian baroque. Neatly neo-classical etc. l936 and York Hall l929 Neo-Georgian lively too.
Newmarket Terrace road goes to Newmarket says
London County Council flats back of the brewery frontages to Cambridge Heath Road and Lisbon Street and are five stones high
2-12 Brewery worker's canteen and billiard room were added c. 1930 by Stewart and Hendry
Shadwell Station remains – the disused station entrance on the north side of the viaduct. An arched doorway beneath the viaduct served as a further means of access to the ELR station, and is believed to have also led into the interchange footway, which linked the ELR with the former London & Blackwall station up above.
Coal depot. Site only. Location of Isaac Glassman's coal depot. Glassman was the father of Minnie Lansbury and together with Minnie's husband, Edgar Lansbury, the son of George Lansbury, was involved in the sale of the Russian Crown Jewels, and seized during the Russian Revolution in 1916. He helped to hide them in the coal shed, while their sale was being negotiated. The money from the sale was offered to George Lansbury to help support his paper the Daily Herald, but he refused to have anything to do with it. Although questions were asked in Parliament about this affair, it is not clear exactly what happened to the money, although it is now known that the jewels found their way to an American museum.
Built as a link between City and the Docks 1800 across Stepney Fields. 1802 went on to the East India Docks. Originally ended at Church Lane 1870 extended by Thwaites to Leman Street. Built by the Commercial Road Company, from Limehouse Church to Church Lane. Now Adler Street, as a more direct route from the East and West India Docks to the City. And the Whitechapel sugar bakeries. It was extended westwards to Gardiner's Comer in 1870 by the Metropolitan Board of Works. 1880s Irish workers making trousers and waistcoats
30-30a Four storey warehouse belonging to Citytex. Collapsed 2007
111-125 have tall red-terracotta upper storeys with mullioned windows and a gable. Built c. 1900 as the Red House Coffee Palace, a temperance establishment founded by the vicar of St Augustine, Harry Wilson. By Edward Burges who designed similar establishments during the 1880s in his native Leicester. It once bore an inscription: 'A good pull-up for Bishops'
230 Lord Nelson tall 1892 by Bird Walters
Block substantial, irregular four-storey industrial built as St George's Brewery, later John Walker & Sons, in 1847 by Charles Humphreys. Originally roofed by a large water tank; the present roofline must date from c. 1900 when the building was converted for bonded stores.
Brewery Tap scythes hanging from the ceiling. Site of Commercial Brewery closed in 1930s
Cheviot House prominent tower. By G.G. Winbourne, 1937 for Kornberg and Segal, woollen merchants. Now council offices. Borax block.
Clothing factories, on the corner of Gower's Walk, a tobacco factory.
Clothing factories. Used by the CWS;
Clothing warehouse on site of St Augustine's church, which was 1879 by Newman & Billing. It stood between Settles Street and Parfett Street, its tight site occupied by a by new building by Batir Associates, A. Jekvar, 1970-3,
Granite tramway from Brunswick Wharf to the City built by Bidder 1830
Kings Head. Regency building
35a, Morrison Buildings, a five-storey c19 Improved Industrial Dwellings Co. tenement block built in 1874, with the usual stucco trim and recessed central bays with iron balconies and stairs. Originally with a pair on the side of the road. With its iron balconies typical of tenement blocks of the later 19th model of its day, featured in the Illustrated London News and later used as a bonded store for whisky. The small building in front, with the classical first floor, was used as a 'duty paid' warehouse.
Palaseum 1911 Freeman’s Yiddish Theatre. Closed within weeks & became a cinema. Asian films.
St.Mary & St.Michael RC 1856 high ship.
542 PDSA moved its head dispensary where they remained right up to the 1950s.
Davenant schools early 19th.
Housing Victoria Cottages Metropolitan Association for Improving the Dwellings of the Industrious Classes. Built in 1865. Cottages have been renovated and improved. At the time of their refection, their experimental style was criticised for not using the land to house more people.
Previously Bucks Row or Tickle Belly Common or Ducking Pond Row.
T.G.Smith distillers on site of Schnedier’s clothing factory second largest distiller in England in 1832. Davey E Liptrap. in the Boulton and Watt archive in Birmingham scribbled on a piece of paper from around 1811, are the words 'Liptrap, Whitechapel' and are associated with a sketch of a gas making plant. Liptrap bought a 17 inch rotative engine in 1786 from them. He was a partner with Thomas Smith? of T. & G. Smith one of twelve distillers in England in 1832, and the second largest of these.
Schnieder’s clothing factory on the site of T & G Smith, second largest distiller in England in 1832.
Kearely & Tonge. Kearely started in at age of 20. Became International Stores. In addition, he was first chair of PLA as Lord Devenport. 400 branches in 1939.
Coal drop viaduct. In 1866 Great Eastern Railway opened the Whitechapel coal depot. This was renamed Spitalfields coal depot. It was on a spur from the East Coast Railway viaduct west of Bethnal Green. Near Whitechapel, the viaduct crosses the East London Railway on the skew. Two branches passed under the viaduct to sidings on the east side serving 'Essex Wharf’ The arches were divided by a wall parallel to the railway tracks, in the crown of each arch was a hole.
Essex Wharf. where James Brown (London) Ltd, brickmakers and Frazzi Fireproof Construction Ltd traded. The offices coud be seen until the 1980s decorated with terra cotta and with the name ‘ESSEX WHARF’ It was also the site of Iron Co. brick works.
Whitechapel Sports Centre where the contemporary spirit continues. By Pollard Edwards, 1998.
Board School admirably restored by E.R. Robson, now flats. It has a roof playground and may originally have had one at ground floor under an arcade, now infilled.
East Mint Street & Mint Terrace?
Civil War fortifications. Southern side of Whitechapel Road, spire there of London Hospital. Chancel in 15th.
Stable block 2-storey. c1900, later used as a garage for steam lorries. Behind is a tall block with painted advert for 'POTTER'S CATARRH PASTILLES'.
The former drug-grinding works of Potter & Clarke, named and dated 1925.
Victoria Mills, incorporating earlier buildings of 1920, extended to the corner with Henriques Street in 1923. Robust brick elevations, four and seven storeys. All by Wheat and Luker. Converted to apartments in 1999.
8-10 are sole survivals here of the earlier c19. Original doors with narrow arched panels
A trackway from Whitechapel to St Dunstan's on early c18 maps. It is a scrappy mix now. Overlooks the grid of streets laid out on the hospital estate from the 1790s.
Tower House. dominates the area since the beginning of the 20th . looming, red brick mass of what was one of the largest of Lord Rowton's hostels, providing lodgings for single men. Designed by H.B. Measures, 1902. Since refurbished as flats. Six storeys with a central gable and turret at each end, the oppressive effect increased by the ranks of diminutive windows, which lit the individual rooms.
31 Grodzinski bakery after generations of persecution, Harris Grodzinski transplanted himself with his young wife Judith to England, along with their two children. the Grodzinskis hired the ovens of a Master Baker called Galevitz and began baking wedding rolls. Mixing a rich dough of the best white flour with plenty of oil and sugar, she made the rolls from two strips of dough, twisted into a little bun, washed with a mixture of egg and water and sprinkled with poppy seeds. Harris then sold these from a barrow in Petticoat Lane market, off Commercial Street. The business continued to flourish, until the Grodzinskis' success eventually compelled them to move to 31 Fieldgate Streer, half a mile away, where a set of coal fired double-deck ovens were installed. Later the family acquired 33 Fieldgate Street which became the home of the Kanareck family, the Grodzinskis' cousins, who for almost fifty years supplied the bakery with flour. The Fieldgate Street shop would open at 4.00am to enable the barrows and vans to load up and begin their rounds. shops were opened throughout the Thirties and Forties in Willesden Green, Golders Green, Hendon, Finchley, Cricklewood, as well as more in Stamford Hill, all supporting local 'barrer' rounds and many with their own small bakeries at the back. The bakery in Fieldgate Street was in full flow at the start of the Second World War, but after several near misses by German bombs, the decision was made to transfer all baking to the relative safety ot Dunsmure Road. on the night of 29th December 1940 when, during a particularly heavy raid, Fieldgate Street received a direct hit and the Grodzinskis' 'spiritual home was reduced to a pile of smouldering rubble.
57 Converted into flats
Great Synagogue. Rebuilt 1959-60 after war damage, replacing the Great Synagogue of 1899. Typical of the Federation's small synagogues. Plain domestic street front; a passage leads to a full-height room behind, a long galleried space lit by a skylight in the concrete roof, with centrally placed Bimah in the Ashkenazi tradition, benches facing each other and Ark at the end. Marbled cast-iron columns, which must be reused from the older building.
A colourful group of flats with covered entrances and high, central arch windows mimic the tenements in Romford Street
Named after Hugh de Fulbourne, rector of St Mary's Whitechapel 1329- 36. There was a Socialist club here, which the Russian Social Democratic Labour Party used in May 1907. Delegates included Lenin, Litvinoff, Gorky, Rosa Luxemburg and Trotsky, who was introduced to another delegate, Stalin.
The area south of Whitechapel High Street was open ground in the c16, and known as Goodman's Fields. It was partly divided into garden plots and by the early c17 it was also in use as tenter grounds. The land was bought by Sir John Leman, Lord Mayor of London, whose great-nephew, William Leman, first laid out four streets around the tenter grounds in the 1680s - each given the family name of his relatives, Mansell, Prescott, Ayliff and Leman. these were 'fair streets of good brick houses' in 1717 but most were replaced by Richard Leman and his builder Edward Hawkins in the late c18, when the area was still fashionable. the noxious sugar refining industry changed the nature of the area and this was followed in the 19th by large warehouses. The area is said to have been the site of a gun battle in 1737 involving highwaymen and constables..
Goodman's Fields. Alie Street opens to a vast complex of buildings, collectively known as, of 1975-8 by Elsom Kick Roberts Partnership for Natwest. It stands in spacious landscaped grounds on the site of the massive London, Tilbury & Southend Railway's Goods Depot, 1886, demolished. Two large blocks, originally for computer services and management,
Goodman's Yard Goods Depot (GER) Site of Hydraulic Pumping Station
Theatre - David Garrick debut.
Farm belonging to Abbey of St. Clair
Theatre, original of ‘throwsties’ shop in Leman Street. Alternatively, Aycliffe Street opened as a Theatre. More trouble. Garrick’s first performance as Richard III. Demolished 1746 another building there burnt down in 1702;
LHP Valve Box Cover. For a valve on a 4ft branch that served the adjacent wool warehouse Later this branch was extended northwards, crossing Commercial Road to join up with another main on Whitechapel Road, thus the branch became a main.
Known as Great Garden Street.
Great Garden Street Synagogue in Morris Lederman House has been closed since 1995, and was one of the last Jewish places of worship in the area. The Kosher Luncheon Club has now closed. The Luncheon Club was a favourite place for elderly East End Jewish men and women to have a cheap and nourishing midday meal, and non-Jewish Eastenders also took advantage of the excellent meals served there.
Harry Gosling Primary School, L.C.C work of 1910; the main block is plain, but the charmingly detailed Cookery and Laundry building, dated 1903, shows T.J. Bailey's flair for smaller buildings: Basil House, 1934-5 by Burnet, Tait & Lorne. Modernist flats for the adjoining former settlement.
Bernhard Baron Jewish Settlement, founded by Basil Henriques and built 1929-30 by Hobden & Porri. Tall, with an imposing arched entrance. Now private flats
First London School Board School.
Commercial Road Goods Depot. London Tilbury and Southern Railway 1886/7. Built as part of the Tilbury dock system with London Tilbury and Southern Railway Co., became called the Tilbury Warehouse. Although less successful than hoped, lasted until 1967. The course of the line can still be discerned on the north side of Hooper Street, although the viaduct itself has long disappeared. On the side of Lutheran Chapel. This warehouse was initially designed to serve Tilbury Docks, but since tobacco was the chief commodity in store, the building temporarily become a notional adjunct of the Royal Docks. Caverns under called Tilbury. Many Henry Moore drawings of it, old underground warehouses. Demolition of the main buildings mostly took place in 1975, allowing the National Westminster Bank to acquire the land for new premises, but the accumulator tower, being separate from the main complex survived opened 1886-7 to handle traffic to and from Tilbury Docks. Remains listed.
Hydraulic pumping station. Brickwork and flue and the tower storey there. Part of the building with brick viaduct on Duthie Street. Two-storey red brick hydraulic tower. Two accumulators. The wooden signboard was a miraculous survival. Its fading white lettering still included the heading 'LMS' and also referred to an adjoining warehouse, which disappeared some years ago. Engine House designed by the railway's Chief Engineer, L.A. Stride in 1885-6, to power the depot's hydraulic cranes and hoists. Church-like, with high brick tower, slightly off-centre from the 'nave', the flanks of which are detailed in red and blue brick with stone dressings over the arch windows. The red brick hydraulic pumping station supplied power to the LTSR's. Through the window of the tower can be seen cylinders, rams and crossheads of two weight-loaded accumulators. Weight-cases, suspended from the crossheads and containing several tons of sand and gravel have been removed. They ran up as water was pumped into the system and down as it was used by the machinery. The pumping engines, by Sir W.G. Armstrong, Mitchell and Co- were, unusually, on the first floor with four Lancashire boilers underneath.
LHP Valve box cover. Housed stop valves on the LHP mains and branches. Mains were pipes that connected with other mains at each end, while branches were connected to mains or other branches at one end only Mains could be isolated by means of stop valves at each end, branches by stop valves close to the junctions. Just outside the door of the former LTSR accumulator tower which was on a 6ft main laid in 1889 from Mansell Street to Upper East Smithfield via Rupert Street and Leman Street.
Two large wool warehouses built for Browne and Eagle, who had several others in the vicinity. Large quantities of wool were imported through the Port of London, particularly from Australia. Note the large wall cranes and the doorway in the right hand block, for buyers inspecting the wool.
Victoria Mills 1920s facade of Potter and Clarke Ltd. drug grinders and medicated confectionary manufacturers. Their equipment included edge-runner mills. Grinding pans. Vats and stills.
Originally King Edward Street
Site of King Edward Ragged School, which was one of the largest in the area. The 'Church for the Ragged Poor'
Area of a Roman Cemetary and on the actual area of Goodman’s Fields. Goodman was a farmer who let out fields for grazing, etc. Adjoined the Abbey of St.Clare. Built up by William. Leman & the surroundiung streets are named for his relations in 1710. ‘.Occupied by handsome residences of wealthy Jews’ - houses were bought by a Sephardic community. A main thoroughfare was entirely built up with brick houses by the 1740s but now is mostly c19 and c20. Now ‘the main point of reference in an anonymous district’.
17 German Mission Day School, 1863. Gothic with black and red brick headers and moulded stucco keystones. Established in 1861, possibly in the small building to the rear facing Buckle Street, but rebuilt by Lutheran pastors as part of their Mission to German labourers.
19a Eastern Dispensary, grandiose two-storey former of 1858-9 by G.H. Simmonds, local surveyor and the dispensary's secretary. Built by John Jacobs of Leman Street. Repair and refurbishment by Ronald S. Hore c. 1997-8 restored much of its appearance after long neglect. Mannered Italianate with channelled-stucco plinth, round-arched entrance under a balcony and upper storey of five bays of windows beneath segmental and pointed pediments. Founded 1782 by City doctors, it was amongst the first to provide free healthcare to the poor of East London.
40, The Black Horse domestic scale and character. Low-key 1840s with extended ground floor.
42-50 offices by C.A. Cornish 1988-9,
52-60, high-fronted red brick tenements of c. 1901, display the poor character of the district at the end of the c19. Built back-to-back with the group in East Tenter Street by N. & R. Davis, Jewish builder developers.
53-5, the drapery warehouse of 1929-30 by the Society's architect from 1916
55-73, 75 and 99 thought the site was a brickfield or large brick earth quarry in the late 18th or early 19th century.'
66 is a genuine 1760s townhouse of a type once common in the area. It stands slightly back from the railed basement area.
70, Mr. Pickwick's, was known as the Garrick Tavern from the early c19, in homage to David Garrick who performed in the Goodman's Field Theatre, Alie Street, in the 1740s. Rebuilt 1854 by Joseph Lavender, who added the large Garrick Theatre behind, demolished c. 1889.
99 at the corner with Hooper Street, of 1885-7 by CWS's architect, J.E Goodey. Six storeys in red brick and Portland stone, rising from a granite plinth with broad windows the lower floors and paired arched openings above set with giant arches. Over the entrance a four-storey canted bay, over the central staircase, has modestly carved emblems of the Society and the cities of Manchester and London. Stress the vertical is an octagonal, corner oriel carrying the square clock tower. Goodey erected tea warehouses immediately behind them. With an open wagon road running between the two blocks to serve the ground floor. Offices were on the first floor, then three floors of large shops with concrete vaults carried on iron columns. The Assembly Room, now subdivided. Still retains part ceiling with ribbed vaulting and decorative plaster. Lengthy extension of 1910 by F.E.L. Harris. Poorly exaggerated Baroque style. Wide and high entrance, open-segmental pediment and oriel window, and an enriched open pediment over its penultimate bays.
100 picks up the dark brown tone, 1978-80 by Brian Shaw & Co. stone-faced ground floor remodelled 1999-2000, which replaced CWS buildings by Heythrop of 1897.
Beagle House by Seifert & Partners, 1976. A nine-storey tower with angled profile, an echo of the firm's earlier Centre Point at Tottenham Court Road
Blue Button' restaurant was the goods office of the London Tilbury & Southend Railway (LTSR).
CWS The magnificent, cliff-like group lining side of the street is testament to the enlightened architectural patronage of the Co-operative Wholesale Society, who were established in the Minories in 1874, moved to a former sugar refinery in 1881 for access to the railway and local markets and quick expanded. Their buildings should be studied Co-op building. . Foundation stone of eastern part laid in 1874 by Thomas Hughes. Western bit in 1887 with imposing clock tower. Foundation stone of eastern part laid in 1874 by Thomas Hughes, Western bit in 1887 with imposing clock tower.
Leman Street Station 1st July 1877. Opened by Great Eastern Railway. Main entrance was south of the viaduct on the east side of Leman Street near Cable Street junction. Another entrance at Backchurch Lane. 1916-1919 closed. 1941 closed through a combination of bus/tram competition and bomb damage. There is a hint of crumbling plaster work and a under the bridge is a bricked-up doorway which once showed evidence of a lamp bracket once hung. Traces of the station can also be seen off nearby Mill Yard. The up platform survived in until the 1980s, when it disappeared under the DLR tracks.
Mr. Kwick’s was Garrick Tavern
Police Station of 1960 by A Dunand of the Scotland Yard Chief Architect & Surveyor’s Dept. . On the site of one of the first of Peel's watch houses, rebuilt in 1890-1.
Rail link into East Smithfield
Shops low range of earlier c19 flatted shops
Silver eagle Somali cafe
The Brown Bear Public House, c. 1830, is also well preserved, its three N bays with giant, rendered pilasters.
Around the churchyard, still conveys something of the chaotic character of pre-war Whitechapel, with domestic terraces overtaken by the rag Trade, interspersed with modest industrial building of between the wars,
‘La Mile ende’ in 1288, ‘Le Milende’ 1307, ‘Mylesende’ 1395, ‘the Miles ende’ 1603, that is "the hamlet a mile away', from Middle English ‘mile’ and ‘ende’. This hamlet on the old London-Colchester road was so named because it was about 1 mile from Aldgate. It became known as Mile End Old Town c.1691 when the name Mile End New Town was given to another hamlet further west, adjoining Spitalfields. The road itself, here Mile End Road - marked thus on the Ordnance Survey map of 1822 - was earlier referred to as ‘Oldestrete’ in 1383. In medieval times the open land here was much used for recreation and gatherings; it was here during the Peasants' Revolt of 1381 that the men of Essex met Richard II and successfully demanded the abolition of feudal serfdom. Crossroads. Mile End Waste was a traditional mustering place for troops in Tudor times.
Turnpike Whitechapel stretched as far at Mile End Gate, where a tollgate stood up to 1866. Turnpike site. Mile End Gate, at the Mile End Turnpike, was removed in 1866 when increasing traffic made the operation of the toll unworkable. This is where Whitechapel Road becomes Mile End Road. In the middle of the road stood the Vine Tavern, demolished in 1904, which dated to the reign of James I.
Baron’s pickle factory, unexploded bomb
Dog Row was name of bottom bit of Cambridge Heath Road.
Whitechapel Mount. On site of the Hospital. 329 ft x 182 ft. removed in 1807. Earth from trenches for Civil War. Alternatively, rubble from the fire. Stated to be 329 feet long and 182 feet wide, and was considerably higher than the adjoining London Hospital. From the summit an extensive view of the former villages of Limehouse, Shadwell, and Ratcliff could be obtained. Mount Place, Mount Terrace, and Mount Street built on the site. 31. East Mount Street and Mount Terrace recall the Mount, demolished in 1830, which was 300 feet long. It was a massive artificial hill which was probably originally a Saxon defensive work. During the Civil War it was greatly enlarged as part of a system of defences for the capital. By the 18th century, trees grew on the mount and paths ran across it.
German hostel, 1972 by Flasket Marshall & Partners;
Grenfell School. LCC. One of the first of their higher-grade Central schools. A unique, outstanding design by T.J. Bailey, 1905.
Built up from 1808, apparently prompted by the London Dock Company's attempt to purchase the land. Is typical: terraces of two- bay, two-storey houses with arched fanlights over narrow doorways raised sharply off the street.
Laid out c. 1772 by the Commissioners of the St George's Turnpike to provide a route to Ratcliffe and Wapping. Its line roughly marks that of the City's civil war defences of 1642.
Mount Terrace built by the Corporation of London, c. 1808, after they had cleared the Mount, part of the defences.
101 Shiv House, a large clothing factory of 1930 by H. Victor Kerr whose Moderne style is much in evidence in this area. For gown manufacturer M. Levy
Gloucester Terrace. Built by several hands. c. 1793-9, but mostly refronted or replaced from the later c19
81 has brashly ornamented upper floors, indicating its origins as the Duke of Gloucester Public House, 1887.
67-75 Empire House 1934 again by H.Victor Kerr. Concrete, square-cut Deco parapet and steel-frame windows.
In the shadow of the former St Philip's church the character of the c19 has been kept.
Blizard Building. Queen Mary College Institute of Cell and Molecular Science. Glass walled laboratory building. Bruce Maclean art
Site of Brewers’ almshouses. Garden administered by the Brewers’ Company and the London Hospital
St. Augustine with St.Philip. Royal London Hospital Museum. Back of London Hospital St. Philip Stepney built by rich vicar, Vatcher, on site of the 1818 church. Biggest church in the east end.
Churchyard of St. Philip open space maintained by the vicar
St. Philip's National Schools form the centrepiece of this range a sandy-painted Tudor-Gothic design by Alfred. R. Mason, the hospital's surveyor, 1842. Central stepped gable over a high Gothic arch window framed between two high octagonal turrets. End pavilions for schoolmaster and mistress with straight-edge gables.
Vicarage for St Philip's, 1864 by A. W Blomfield. Ecclesiastical dourness with tile-hung insets to the pointed arch windows. Once the home of J.R. Green, historian and incumbent of St Philip's (1865-8).
created in the 1890s when the hospital cleared a dense group of courts and alleys and replaced them with sturdy, three-storey model dwellings - the first of their kind on the estate - by their surveyors, Newman Conquest. Small windows with colonette mullions and entrances under segmental and pointed pediments. A larger scheme for rebuilding along Settles Street and Myrdle Street with identical blocks was unrealized. The street's end still has three-storey terraces of the 1790s on both sides, several with their original fanlights and doorcases. Renovated when the model dwellings were erected and reflecting the estate's preference for individual houses, seen also in Myrdle Street
Pedestrianised in the late c20 in an attempt to draw together the hospital's various residential buildings.
Philpot Terrace houses erected c. 1839 as. They were the largest houses on the early c19 estate and deliberately built for private lettings.
Floyer House The interlacing tracery of the windows of the terraces is echoed in the arched fanlights of the doors and windows. former Medical College Students' Hostel, by E. Maufe, 1934. Nice brick building with arched ground-floor loggia and projecting window frames,
School of Nursing & Midwifery City University, 1965-7 by T.E Bennet & Son
Immediately in front of the entrance, a circular concrete 'pill-box' lecture theatre.
John Harrison House, staff residences of 1963 by Bennet. Y-plan tower with canted balconies to the centre of each block and roof terrace.
Joscoyne House, 1934
Porchester House, designed in 1936, built in 1951, by Lee & Dickins.
Dorien Estate several blocks by the LCC's. Brick and concrete flats of 1957-9-
Model Artisans Dwellings
Mary Westby Almshouses 1749
Whitechapel Bell Foundry, recorded in Whitechapel from the c15. Facing Plumber Row a workshop range with sturdy jib crane above a broad gated carriageway, leading into the yard. This has early c19 workshops built around it with further workshops added in 1981. The oldest business in London. The Georgian front the building remains almost unchanged. One of the most famous bell foundries in the world, and probably the longest established, was founded by Robert Mot in Essex Street in 1570. It moved to its present site in the Whitechapel Road in 1738 in what was the Artichoke coaching inn. Save for an added Georgian fronts the building remains almost unchanged. The original harness room and stables existed until 1969, and there was also a lead water tank dated 1650. The bell foundry traded under the name of Mears and Stain bank from 1865 to 1968, when its name was changed to the Whitechapel Bell Foundry Ltd. Through the centuries bells for famous churches all over Britain have been cast here. Between 1570 and 1650 this was the only important London foundry and after the Great Fire of London, as churches were rebuilt all over the City, Whitechapel supplied the bells for many fine Wren churches. The original American Liberty Bell was cast here in 1752. It cracked soon after it was hung but was recast in Philadelphia, using the same cast and lettering. Big Ben was cast here in 1858 after the original bell made at Stockton-on-Tees had cracked during testing at Palace Yard. Now closed and gone.
Church of the English Martyrs . RC. reminder of the needs of the Irish workforce, which served the docks. 1875-6 by Pugin - begun by Edward Pugin 1875, completed by his brothers - for the mission of oblates of St Mary Immaculate who came to Tower Hill in 1865.
Juno Court site of t presbytery for 1980s offices.
houses, now demolished, the London Infirmary, later the London Hospital, was established in 1740. On the site, crude offices with a tall arcaded front self-consciously echoing Victorian warehousing.
Whitechapel County & Police Court, 1858-9 by Charles Reeves- Lewis G. Butcher, displays Ruskinian influences at an early date. Confident, three-storey Venetian palazzo with heavy eaves cornice and tall chimneys with decorative caps, richly polychromed in red, black, white and blue brickwork. Six bays with ground floor of large round-arched windows and asymmetrical entrance. Smaller groups of paired windows within arches and an upper range of square-headed lights are divided by slender iron columns. The court-room block is visible at the rear.
Princess of Prussia, a c 1880s public house. Neat and narrow with a projecting bay, coloured glazed dressings and tablet gable with broken scrolled pediment.
Kingsland House overpowering gargantuan postmodern offices in the Stirling vein with pink and beige striped cladding and a curved corner tower.
17-23 38-53 CWS 1887. The CWS group is the corner block originally offices, flats since 1999 by Ekins, extended to his design in the 1950s Amsterdam School-style bronzes by the Society's own craftsmen, with lozenge insets of emblem. Over the entrance, a carved relief symbolizing 'Co-operation' by J.C. Blair, brother of one of the Society's directors. A second, lesser, block for the Cooperative Bank was added in 1936-8 in matching style.
Fieldgate Mansions designed by the hospital surveyors, Rowland Plumbe & Harvey at the request of the builders, Davis Brothers, 1905-6. Plumbe originally planned individual three-storey houses but the LCC purchased the land to the south forcing a revision to higher-density flats.
Rupert Street Goodman’s Fields
Charles Dames sugar refinery
Tenements. The earliest terraces were swept away in the 1890s and replaced by high-fronted tenements,
Davis's Terrace, 1891 by of Bishopsgate. Austere, bare yellow brick.
39-55 Also by Israel & Hyman Davis but slightly later
10-28, in a more humane red brick with mouldings and pointed dormers, but with the same narrow proportions.
Kobi Nazrul School. Behind a high wall, penetrated by louvred portholes. A solid 1990s design in brick with strong massing of one- and two-storey buildings under deep-pitch roofs and echoes in the detailing of Victorian schools.
Job Centre, built as the Stepney Employment Exchange, 1934-6 by the Office of Works, a particularly well-composed Neo-Georgian design. Symmetrical block in good brick with pantiled pitch roof and a pair of monolithic chimneystacks. Squat brick porches to the outer Bays; set forward at both ends are gabled bays with Venetian windows. Curved rear block. 1
Good Samaritan. Rebuilt in 1937 as part of London Hospital estate. One of A.E. Sewell’s excellent pubs for Truman. Neo-Georgian with flashes of Art Deco detail.
Factory and showroom by H. Victor Kerr. At the corner with Nelson Street, 1932 for gown manufacturer M. Levy. White rendered, with tall square-cut stair towers on either side, sharp angled corner and slightly projecting bands of windows with curved ends.
29 plaque to Charles Bradlaugh, which says 'advocate of free thought, lived here 1870-1877' . Bradlaugh lived here, in an East End slum long before it became fashionable He was an associate of Annie Besant, was fighting for women's suffrage and urging birth control; an ardent advocate of trade unionism and social reform and hated by the church.Plaque erected 1961.
47 Neo-Georgian by H. Victor Kerr was built for the Ophthalmic Centre for the Hospital Savings Association, 1933;
School of Medicine and Dentistry,
Gwynne House by H. Victor Kerr of 1934,
72 People's Dispensary for Sick Animals began on 17 November 1917 when Maria Dickin, came to the East End hoping to engage in social work, but the sight of injured donkeys, cats and dogs roaming the streets appalled her, and she decided that helping animals was to be her mission. The work began in the cellar of a pub on the corner of Vallance Road and Fulbourne Street. 72 was the Grasshopper pub, which in 1911 was run by Mrs Elizabeth Lazenby and in 1919 by Henry Cohen. Within two months the PDSA had moved its premises to Harford Street, Mile End.
Lister House on the site of the The Whitechapel Union Workhouse. This was later an infirmary which became in 1924 St Peter's Hospital, a branch of the Royal London Hospital. During World War One the matron was Mary Mowatt, remembered for her bravery in reassuring her patients during the Zeppelin raids. It was destroyed during World War Two. Lister House has been built on the approximate site of the workhouse
178 demolished. Was the home of the Kray family. The twins Ronnie and Reggie Kray, and their brother Charlie, lived here with their mother Violet. They embarked on a life of crime, which was to have a significant effect on the lives of many Eastenders.
71, Mary Hughes 1860-1941.Plaque saying 'friend of all in need, lived and worked here 1926-1941'. Mary Hughes inherited a great deal of money from her father, the author of "Tom Brown's Schooldays". She used it to great effect. In 1926 she bought this property and turned it into a haven for the poor. She organised socialist gatherings and brought in educators. She became a JP and, unlike the majority of JPs of her time, dispensed justice with mercy and pragmatism, rather than avenging punishment. In her later years she was an invalid, having being knocked down and kicked by the police, whilst marching in support of the unemployed. Plaque erected 1961.
Shadwell Station. 1st October 1840. Between Limehouse and Tower Gateway and also Bank on the Docklands Light Railway. Between Wapping and Whitechapel on the East London Line. Originally on the London and Blackwall Railway and opened as Shadwell. It was on the south of the viaduct on the corner of Sutton Street and Shadwell Place. In 1872 the East London Railway Extended from Wapping to Shoreditch 1872 with a connection to Bishopsgate Junction. A Footway to the London & Blackwall Railway station. In 1876 it opened on the East London Railway on 19th April and was called Shadwell. In 1884 run by the Met & District from St.Mary’s to New Cross. Line leased to District, Met, London & Brighton, London, Chatham and Dover, South Eastern and Great Eastern.. In 1890s information outside the station also given in Yiddish. In 1900 Name changed to Shadwell and St. George 1st July 1900. Entrance from Chapman Street. 1918 Name changed to Shadwell. The original entrance, rendered redundant when the present one was brought into use around 1983 remains on the north side of the viaduct. Traces of the original stations can still be seen but in 1955 most of the London and Blackwall station demolished. 1987 DLR on the west end of the London and Blackwall Station site.
Viaduct, traces of the original can still be seen
Watney Market Estate, 1968 . The land was sold to the L.C.C in 1951-3 and 1960, but built up only from 1966-76 by the G.L.C. Architect's Department using the SF1 prefabricated system. It occupies part of the site of the Mercers' Company's first development close to Commercial Road, on Little Callis Field, laid out in 1817 with a grid of streets.
The early c19 neighbourhood with its street market in Watney Street suffered badly in the war, losing its main landmark, Christ Church, of 1840-1 by John Shaw jun., demolished after bomb damage. The post-war plan for a pedestrian shopping and market street was rejected for a more complicated scheme, with pedestrians and vehicles segregated.
Winterton House. The western tower was demolished, and this block was reclad, after being stripped to its steel skeleton
Pompous landscaped approach and lower doctors' surgery added to the E.
Five parallel blocks of flats completed by Stepney Borough council
Around the churchyard, still conveys something of the chaotic character of pre-war Whitechapel, with domestic terraces overtaken by the rag Trade, interspersed with modest industrial building of between the wars,
Altab Ali Park, the former churchyard of St Mary Matfelon. The original 'white chapel' began as a c13 chapel of ease to St Dunstan Stepney in 1270. It was rebuilt in the c14 by the Matfelon family, in the later c17, and again, in c13 style, by Ernest C. Lee in 1875-7 when It was rebuilt for the last time. It had become the parish church of Stepney Whitechapel in around 1646. The church was destroyed in the Blitz and on 14 July 1945 the spire was struck by lightning, which split it in two. The ruins were cleared and the churchyard was laid out as a garden. The outline of the church is traced by stones laid out on the grass. A few tombstones. A fine tapered sarcophagus to the Maddock family 1770s-1801, armorial panel on the end, a damaged urn on the pyramidal top. The sides are decorated with Vitruvian scroll and gadrooned band. Very few of the graves remain, but perhaps the most well-known person to be buried here was Richard Brandon, the supposed executioner of Charles I. Also interred here was Sir John Cass, the founder and benefactor of schools and Ralph Davenant, rector in 1669. There was a plaque in the garden here to Maria Dickin, founder of the People's Dispensary for Sick Animals in 1917 in Vallance Road, Whitechapel. The garden was renamed Althab Ali Park in memory of a young Bangladeshi man killed in a racially motivated attack in Adler Street in May 1978.
Vicarage built in 1900 and later converted into a post office.
The Martyrs' Monument (Shaheed Minar), a copy of that erected in Bangladesh to the memory of five students killed in 1052 Each is represented by a narrow free-standing steel screen with inclined head set on a semicircular platform and grouped in front of a large blood-red circular panel. To designs by Freeform Arts Trust with Arts Fabrzcations
Gate piers c19 Gothic have an iron overthrow by David Petersen, 1989, symbolically combining motifs of Bangladeshi and English Perpendicular architecture.
Drinking Fountain In the wall at the corner with Whitechapel Road 1860, moved here in 1879, quite elaborate, with Norman arch under a coped gable now sheltering a shapeless stone lump on a polished-granite plinth. Its inscription is mysterious: ‘Erected by one who is known yet unknown'.
29-33 with curved windows.
St Mary’s Clergy House, 1894 by Herbert Ellis, a deliberately picturesque exception, red brick with stone dressings, three cabled bays of mullioned windows and a corner turret.
17 The neatest of the older houses the standard early c19 type with first-floor windows within arches.
Flats a bomb damaged part of the park was filled c. 2000 by the large blocks of flats to render and engineering brick by Squire & Partners.
'place with a stone chapel', alluding, to the building material by naming its characteristic colour. Stone would have been an unusual choice for small churches in earlier centuries, when there was a plentiful supply of wood. This chapel was also referred to by its dedication; ‘Mattefelon’ was probably the name of the founder or of a benefactor. ‘St Mary de Mattefelon’ 1282, ‘New Chapel without Aldgate’ 1295, ‘Whitechapele by Algate’ 1340, ‘Parish of the Blessed Mary Matfelon White Chapell’ 1452.
The London Hospital was one of several large private landowners in Stepney up to 1945 but now almost the only one to retain a substantial part of its estate. The hospital acquired the Red Lyon Farm in 1755 and 1772 but only began to develop it after 1790, in an undisciplined fashion. A second burst of activity got under way 1808-30 with the building leases more controlled by the estate's surveyor. By the end of the c19 the entire area was composed of houses interspersed with schools and numerous corner pubs. Some of the older parts characterized by cramped cottages, courts and alleys were cleared for street widening and the construction of 'improved' housing. Good management, like that of the Mercers' company’s estates in Stepney, ensured the survival of much of the c19 stock into the present. But the hospital's own expansion after 1895 and the progressive encroachment of clothing factories created a more mixed architectural character that still obtains today. The estate is divided into two parts by New Road laid out c. 1772. Whitechapel was part of the borough of Stepney largely inhabited by Jewish traders and craftsmen whose forerunners began to settle in-this neighbourhood after the Russian persecution of 1881.
Rivoli Cinema. Built by Coles In 1921, with over 2,000 seats, and thus large and very impressive for that time. It was blitzed in 1940; the site was acquired by Granada who commissioned Coles to plan a replacement. This was never built
Whitechapel High Street
Roque's map of 18th-century London, published in 1746, shows Whitechapel High Street a broad highway leading out of London, with a cluster of little alleyways and streets near the centre f London, which gradually get fewer and fewer until at Mile End there are only fields a: market gardens, with houses lining the road on either side. Joined to Commercial Road by Gardner’s Corner in 1870. “Welcome surprise to the stranger – spacious -accommodated with good inns the Whitechapel boulevard may be said to commence from Houndsditch and the Minories, but to the boundary at Middlesex Street it is known as Aldgate High Street when it assumes the name of Whitechapel High Street. Whitechapel High Street is the beginning of London 'East of Aldgate' and here the contrast between the prosperity of the City and its eastern neighbour is decidedly marked. Until the later C20 buildings on the High Street, and its continuation Whitechapel Road, remained predominantly three and four storeyed, with a plentiful supply of inns, mixture of narrow c18 and c19 frontages, and narrow alleys leading off, typical of an ancient street pattern. War damage and indifferent later redevelopment have left only scrappy remains and the gradual creep of the City further threatens the intimate scale. The junction of the High Street, Commercial Street and Commercial Road was busy even in the c19 and replaced by a daunting gyratory system in 1976.
Hay market. From 1708 there was a hay market along the street, with deliveries from the country three times a week. It was originally held at Ratcliff, and was probably moved to Whitechapel because it was the nearest spot, which was conveniently near the city without actually encroaching on it. The market was in existence until 1928, when an Act Parliament abolished it. At the start of the 20th the junction was the terminus for trams and trolley buses.
Morrison’s buildings north
CWS clothing factory
Gower’s walk corner, tobacco factory
77 Library. A mural in tiles depicting Whitechapel Hay Market in the 1780s can be seen at the entrance to the Library. It is believed that it came from the Red Lion public house across the road. Plaque to Isaac Rosenberg, which says ‘poet and painter lived in the East End and studied here'. He spent many hours reading here and said the books in the library inspired him to write his poetry. Plaque erected 1987. 1. The library was founded by John Passmore Edwards in 1892 and designed by Potts, Son and Hennings. Dr Jacob Bronowski, as a boy of 12 was taken to the library by another boy, and asked for a book that he could read easily, and so improve his English
90 Bloom's Kosher Restaurant. The building has since become a fast-food outlet. Bloom's opened in 1920 on the corner of Brick Lane. Salt beef, gefilte fish, chicken liver and fruit cordial, cold borscht and calf's foot jelly, and the rudeness of the staff, were some of its specialties.
hitechapel Institution and Art Gallery, 1899/91 One of Canon Barnett’s schemes to bring culture to the labouring classes. By Art Workers Guild member C. Harrison Townsend. It is likely that C.R. Ashbee, who founded the Guild of Handicraft and worked with Barnett, contributed to the design. J. Passmore Edwards bore much of the cost and published Townsend's first design in his Building News in 1896, a broad, vaguely Romanesque front with an arcaded upper storey, flanked by tapered towers with shallow domes. The composition, revised to fit the narrow frontage is similar to his Bishopsgate Institute. It has been refurbished by Colquhoun and Miller in the ubiquitous language of contemporary galleries -white walls, light wood floors and no skirting. There are galleries, a cafe, lecture theatre, audiovisual facilities, bookshop, offices, etc. plus a five-storey extension.
Woolworth’s on Commercial Road corner, bombed, on the site of Venables and Co., drapery emporium
Feldman’s Jewish Post Office. On the corner of Osborne Street.
Ripper murder Minnie Kelley;
29 Ye Olde Red Lion
17-19 Sedgwick Centre of 1986-8 by Fitzroy Robinson Partnership continues the overweening scale of the City. Eight storeys of offices,
underground shopping mall. Sedgewick Centre, found a series of quarry pits filled with bell-making waste.
Students' Union of London Metropolitan University. Goulston Street, corner. A building, which had already broken the mould in 1939- By Philip S.B. Nicolle, company architect to Price's Tailors Ltd, built as workshops and showrooms. A handsome block, seven storeys with setback attic.
130, Natwest Bank, has a restrained Neo-Georgian frontage, with pediment over all three bays, and a tripartite window above a black marble-faced ground floor. Surprisingly late for this treatment, rebuilt c 1959 after bomb damage to the original bank of 1864.
122-5 were demolished c. 1890 to widen the entrance to Old Castle Street in the wake of the last of the notorious murders of 1888, shortly after the Metropolitan Board of Works had cleared the overcrowded alleys.
Offices and hotel corner with Commercial Street, begun in 2004 by John Seifert Architects.
Summit Sports and Conference Centre Stranded in its centre on the side of the High Street is of 1985 by Frederick Gibberd, Coombes & Partners. One of the first awkward intrusions on the fringe of the City, for which its facilities were clearly intended. A whitepanelled exterior, tall, with silo-like corner towers; its faux-industrial appearance made even more ludicrous by the giant globe lanterns suspended on arms from the roof.
Lloyds Bank with brick piers and glazed vertical panels. Only three storeys, in deference to the older group which follows
Central House (London Metropolitan University), dominates the next stretch. 1963-4 by Lush & Lester, intended for flatted factories above warehouse and shops although the blocks were almost immediately taken over by the Sir John Cass School of Art. This was one of the few post-war efforts in the area to provide new working conditions in multi-purpose buildings.
Fairholt House, c. 1910 by J.Wallis Chapman and Shepherd for Atkinson's clothing store. Arched mezzanine and two upper storeys on w side rebuilt after war damage.
White Hart. Only one bay wide, but its c19 front anc window are grandly flanked by giant pilasters. The back with a sign saying 'established 1721' can be seen from a passage to Gunthorpe Street. The White Hart pub might be a reference to when Richard II's was there in 1381 in the Peasant’s Revolt meeting Wat Tyler, Jack Straw and John Ball. Seventy years later another revolt led by Jack Cade came to Mile End. At present the pub is known as Murphy's, is late Victorian and contains some decorated glass. In the 1890s a hairdressers in the basement was run by a Polish poisoner and there is a mention on the plaque at the back of the pub about him.
88 Albert's Incorporating the passage entry, was reconstructed for the short-lived Jewish Daily Post, the first Anglo-Jewish daily newspaper, in 1935 by H.P Sanders: Deco-style shop front with black marble fascia bearing an elaborate badge of Jewish symbols set within the Star of David, by Arthur Szyk, the Polish Jewish artist.
87 was the headquarters of the George Yard Mission established in 1856 by George Holland. The Mission erected several buildings as it expanded, including Sir George's Home for Girls of 1886, which survives behind in Gunthorpe Street.
85 is a crumbling former public house by Bird & Walters, 1900.
From the Church and Brick Lane. Jewish settlement was round Aldgate, Whitechapel, and Brick Lane. “Working people employed in tailoring and dress. From the Baltic countries and street after street and district after district became occupied almost entirely by Jews and this occasioned bitter complaints from the old inhabitants. Unrestricted immigration has been curtailed and London has, in fact, half-closed her doors to foreigners. “ Roman road. Suicide buried at crossroads. The south side of Whitechapel High Street had several butchers' shops, where cattle were slaughtered and carcasses sold.
120 Royal Oak, c. 1870, has an elaborate five-bay front; window surrounds with curved corners and moulded detail; cast-iron balconies to the second floor, and a pedimented centre.
128-30 with two tall gables and the date stone 1901. 130 is where Henry Wainwright killed his girl friend.
234; former London & South Western Bank. 1889 by Edward Gabriel. Deep, three-bay arcaded windows, with mask keystones. Upper floors of mullioned windows in Bath stone. Off-centre pediment. Strapwork decoration beneath first and third floors.
259 the site of the shop where, in November 1884, the surgeon Sir Frederick Treves first discovered Joseph Merrick, who was on display as 'the Elephant Man. Treves examined him and wrote an account of his findings for the British Medical Journal. Merrick suffered from neurofibromatosis, which gave him an enormous misshapen head, and a body covered in a brown growth. In 1886 Merrick was admitted to the Royal London Hospital, where he lived in relative comfort for four years, until his death in 1890 at the age of 38.
279-81 flats. Were built as the Working Lads Institute by George Bairns, 1884-5, extended 1886-8 for lecture hall and swimming bath. Working Lads Institutes were first proposed in 1876, by J.E. Saunders of the Corporation of London, to provide distractions for boys over thirteen in between work and home. The institute at Whitechapel was to have been the first of several in London with reading room, library, classroom, bank and clothing club. A single Arts and Crafts stained glass window of the Tree of Life survived conversion in 1997. Probably by A.O. Hemming & Co. who provided windows for the Lecture Hall depicting Art, Religion, Industry and the Seasons. Radical meetings were held in the hall in the 1890s and speakers included Prince Kropotkin and Rudolf Rocker. In 1896 the institute was bought by Thomas Jackson, and reopened as the Whitechapel Primitive Methodist Mission, which included a Home for Friendless and Orphaned Lads
28-30, two bay, each with c20 shop fronts.
32, of the same build, is five bays wide and handsome: it must have served as a home for the foundry's master. Pedimented and pilastered doorcase and original railings. Two rooms at the front (now the foundry's offices) retain polite c18 fittings including arched recesses either side of the fireplace in the room to the r. of the entrance.
333-335 Albion Brewery. Albion Yard 1808 run by Black. 1899 first bottled beer. Mann, Crossman & Pauling in 1904. Watney, Mann, Kitto and Brotherhood 1867. Beam engine. Robert Morton 1872 horizontal engine. The remaining buildings of the Albion Brewery, closed 1979 and converted to flats in 1993-4 by Peter Brooks Associates. The first brewhouse was established in 1808 by the landlord of the Blind Beggar public house and acquired by James Mann in 1826. Rebuilt 1860-8, probably by E.N. Clifton, for Mann, Crossman & Paulin whose name still graces the arched iron overthrow above the gates. The former Head Brewer's House (NatWest), a four-storey block in plain yellow brick with windows in relieving arches. To its rear, a lower range originally for stores and fermenting rooms, with a rooftop water tank dated 1864. Balancing to the E, the former Brewery Offices and stores of 1863-4; now Health Centre. Four-storeys with six bays of recessed windows; c20 upper floor. Ground-floor hall with plaster ceiling, decorated with bands of entwined hops and barley. Within the courtyard a later two-storey porte cochere in Portland stone. Probably contemporary with the expansion of the brewery, c. 1902-5 by William Bradford &' Sons. At about this date, the 1860s fermenting house at the rear of the courtyard was remodelled and liberally embellished in show-off Baroque style, dominated by a high pedimented gable between huge carved volutes, a clock and a splendid carved relief of St George & the Dragon, its sculptor sadly unknown. Much carved detail of hops and barley. Occupies the site of a brewery dating from 1808, which was taken over in 1819 by James Mann, while Robert Crossman and Thomas Paulin joined the business in 1846. Rebuilt in 1855, the Albion brewery continued for 100 years until it was taken over by Watneys in 1959, closing in the 1990s. The brewery was the first place in Britain to produce bottled brown ale.
34 Whitechapel bell Foundry the foundry continues from Plumbers Row c18 in reddish-brown brick, of two bays, with a beautiful early c19 timber shop front that has ingenious sliding vertical shutters and Soaman incised detail. Inside, painted and grained fittings and access to the cellar of the former inn.
45, Black Lion House Prominent, large and unappealing offices of the 1980s, seven storeys high, faced in polished brown stone. Part set back. On the courtyard, four plain brick plinths carry some insignificantly small sculptures, Les Naiades by Ivor Abrahams, 1985.
75 was Black Lion Yard, a famous East End Jewellers' area. In the 1930s, of the 21 shops, 12 were jewellers. The yard took its name from the Black Lion tavern, which dated from the mid-17th century. The yard also housed a Welsh dairy, where customers lined up to buy milk fresh from the cow. Gwynth Francis-Jones wrote of her uncle, William Jones: 'Welsh people may be justly proud of the cow keepers of Black Lion Yard... William Jones was there during the Zeppelin raids of World War One. Joshua Evans had the harder task during World War Two. The dairy finally closed in 1949, and the jewellers followed 20 years later.
Blind Beggar. Site of General Booth’s first sermon in 1865. The brewery's engineer, Robert Spence, rebuilt the pub in 1894. Workmanlike Queen Anne with gables, stamped terracotta detail and two wide four-centred. Recalls the legend of the Blind Beggar of Bethnal Green, supposedly Simon de Montfort, but more likely a soldier wounded in the French wars, and his beautiful daughter Bessy. The Salvation Army ladies sold their War Cry in the pub in 1865, urging people to give up the demon drink. On 6 March 1966, Ronnie Kray shot George Cornell in the pub, in the presence of the barmaid. Although her evidence led to the conviction of Ronnie and Reggie Kray, she still refuses to reveal her identity, for fear of reprisals from members of the Kray's gang
Booth House, a Salvation Army hostel by Praser Brown McKenna, 2000-2, re-using the structure of the previous building by H.M. Lidbetter but replacing the facade with light steel framing panels of unbonded red brick. William Booth founded his first headquarters in Whitechapel Road in 1866.
Boris's Photographic Studio stood next to Buck & Hickman, machine tool manufacturers. A Jewish wedding was only complete when the happy couple were photographed here. Boris moved to the West End in the late 1940s, but the distinctive facade of his studio, with its art deco addition to the Victorian building, makes it easily recognisable.
Bull Inn Regular coaches ran from here to Chigwell
179-181 Davenant Centre . Sixty articulated burials associated the late-18th/mid-19th century Whitechapel Workhouse burial ground were recorded, mainly in the south-west corner of the external courtyard. Former Davenant Foundation School, a late c19 amalgamation of two older charitable schools in Whitechapel. The five-bay stucco frontage to the road is dated 1818, of two storeys above a basement with central three bays projecting and 'Whitechapel School' engraved in the frieze above. Remodelled 1896 by E Pouler Telfer when the large new hall and classroom block were erected at the rear of the site on the former workhouse burial ground. Splendid Neo-Jacobean in rich red brick with terracotta dressings. The hall is raised over a covered playground with piers faced in blue brick and served by a striking and unusual covered stair with a stepped, open, arcade.Inside, a barrel-vaulted timber roof on arch-braced trusses with tie-beams and king posts.
199 Black Bull. This is one of the last surviving true East End pubs. A vibrant place with banter from locals, actors from the local theatre, hospital workers from the London Hospital and shoppers from Brick Lane/Petticoat Lane. If you visit the gents loos you can see the underground
Drinking Fountain. In the midst of the market, 1911 by WS. Frith, bronze angel of peace on a tapering stone pillar with low-relief bronze plaques of Justice, Liberty, cherubs and a portrait head of King Edward VII, in whose honour the fountain was 'erected from subscriptions raised by Jewish inhabitants of East London'. The Edward VII memorial fountain I grateful and loyal memory of Edward VII... by the Jewish inhabitants of East London. The memorial is often overlooked hemmed in as it is by the many stalls of Whitechapel Market. On the sides are the figures of Liberty and Justice, with small children at their feet, one of whom is holding a motor car.
East London Mail Centre and Post Office very dull 1960s. Originally linked by underground railway to Paddington via Mount Pleasant and St Martin le Grand. H.H. Dalrymple-Hay, engineer. Terminus of the Post Office's largely unknown underground railway. Its automatic driverless trains carry up to 50,000 bags of mail a day over six miles of track to six sorting offices. Work began on the tunnel in 1913 and it was opened in 1927
East London Mosque. 1982-5 by John Gill Associates. The golden glass-fibre dome and cluster of minarets make a striking landmark. Asymmetrical street frontage in red brick, with a row of tall Islamic arches.. Spacious top-lit entrance hall; large prayer hall at an angle, approached up steps.
The London Muslim Centre, 2003-4 by Robert Klashka of Markland KJashka, with broad, glazed entrance inset below a curved canopy faced with patterned tiles. The main building, of six storeys, has a series of large halls, classrooms and offices; around the corner in Fieldgate Street,
Mosque Tower eight storeys of sheltered housing, and a four-storey terrace.
Grave Maurice Pub is called after Count Maurice of Nassau Dutch soldier 16th.
1874, three storeys with Gothic
overtones, dates from 1874. Graf (Count) Maurice was
the Prince of Orange a great Dutch hero who drove the Spaniards from the
Netherlands in the late 16th. In gratitude he was offered the crown of his
country, but he refused. The Kray brothers were regulars in this pub
Whitechapel Ideas Store, The third and largest of the c21 successors to the borough's public libraries.
Jagonari Centre. a Women's Educational Resource Centre. 1987 by Matrix Feminist Design Co-Op. A considered four-storey design combining a mix of motifs drawn from Indian architecture, including fretted screens to the windows within recessed panels and an elaborate mosaic door surround, with more traditional gable and cupola.
London Hospital Tavern, grotesquely and unsympathetically repainted
London Muslim Centre of 2004
Lord Napier, pub with a good front
Lord Rodney's Head was a Victorian music hall from 1854 to 1885 and was known as the Prince's Hall of Varieties. Lord Rodney won a famous naval victory against the French in the West Indies in 1782. Charles Coborn, the music hall star, performed here for 12 shillings a night
Old Blue Anchor, an elaborately stuccoed frontage of c. 1860, three storeys with attic above cornice.
Pavilion Theatre until 1940 on Vallance Road corner. Devoted to Jewish drama. Was a floor cloth factory but converted to theatre in 1828. Burnt down and rebuilt. Bombed. Victorian gentlemen came to Whitechapel in search of entertainment and pleasure. At the end of the 19th century the self-styled murderer Jack the Ripper dominated the Palaces of variety, music saloons and penny gaffs, fun fairs and theatres all served to amuse workers during their few hours of leisure. For many years melodrama was popular, and at the Pavilion Theatre plays such as the world of the Bleeding Heart, and The Murder of the Mount played to packed audiences
Rivioli Cinema bombed. Site of Wonderland, boxing club. Burnt down. Wonderland offered drama, boxing, circus performances, pantomimes and human freaks
Royal London Hospital. Remnants of the plain, balanced composition of the Georgian hospital designed by Boulwn Mainwaring in 1752 are still just traceable the agglomeration of buildings extends along Whitechapel Road The hospital was founded in Featherstone Street in 1740 by professional doctors, in contrast to other London hospitals, before moving to Prescot Street for sailors and wounded watermen. a year later as the London Infirmary A new site was required as early as 1744 and open land leased from the City. The new hospital, for 200 patients, was largely complete by 1757 but building continued until 1771 The original design was plain, in stock brick, of three storeys and twenty-three bays with a simple pedimented five- bay centre. two-storey wings attached to the main block, each with a a double or back-to-back ward on each floor, were completed in the 1770s by Edward Hawkins and extended to their present length by A.R. Mason in the 1830s, partly to incorporate wards for the increasing number of Jewish patients. Changing attitudes to hospital design and sanitation encouraged the building of two pavilion wings in the 1860s and 1870s by Charles Barry Jun. with better ventilated 'Nightingale' wards.This made it the largest hospital in the country with 650 beds. Minor additions were made in the 1880s by Rowland Plumbe prior to his major extension and rebuilding from 1896-1906. from 1966 T.P. Bennett & Son developed radical plans for the creation of a 1,300-bed hospital which would have required destruction of most of the main site. As a result the pre-Plumbe buildings were listed but in spite of this the Alexandra Wing was destroyed in 1974 and replaced. Subsequent building has been in small units but in 2004 major redevelopment was planned by Skanska/Inmsfree with HOK International. Roof-top helicopter pad. The garden has a bronze sculpture of Queen Alexandra by James Wade, 1908. A relief panel on the plinth shows Edward VII, Frederick Treves, Sydney Holland and others at a demonstration of the Finsen light treatment for 'tuberculosis of the skin'. Providing the backdrop to this, Garden House, a two storey building- storey for the paediatrics dept ofc. 1996 by T.P. Bennett. The hospital interior has been extensively remodelled but cheered up since 1996 by artworks commissioned by VitalAns, including brightly coloured floors in Children's Services by Sarah Hammond, 1998, a glass ceiling in the Endoscopy Unit by Kate Maestri, 1999 and windows in the multi-faith chapel by Amanda Townsend. In 1999, a mosque was opened in the Alexandra Wing. The first of its kind, comprising two small prayer rooms decorated with hand-stencilled Islamic patterns by Areen Design. Archives. plaque to Edith Cavell, who trained and worked at the London. Eva Luckes was matron from 1880 to 1919, the year she died. She transformed the nursing service and raised both standards and morale. There was a rumoured 'dead body train' which 'conveyed corpses from the basement of the London Hospital to Whitechapel.'.
School opened in 1854 by Barnado.
St Mary’s Curve, Joint Met and District 22 chains in length from East London Railway closed 1906, 1913 and again in 1941
St.Mary Whitechapel station. 3rd March 1884. Built by the Metropolitan District Railway and the Metropolitan Railway. Opened for South Eastern trains from the East London Line on the 1st October to take trains on the curve going from Kent and Surrey to Liverpool Street. It was sited on the south side of Whitechapel Road roughly opposite Davenant Street. In 1923 the name was changed to ‘St.Mary’s Whitechapel Road ‘. In 1938 it was closed because it was near Whitechapel rail. The platforms are still on site with a brick wall built to protect wartime shelterers and there are emergency track access doors. In 1940 it was bombed and the building destroyed
Statue of Queen Alexandra in the main court. By George Edward Wade. She is in coronation robes with a crown and sceptre. Inscription about how she introduced the Finson Light for Lupus. Bronze plaque showing her in a ward. Statue erected in 1908.
Whitechapel Mission begun in 1896 by a Primitive Methodist minister, Thomas Jackson. The gabled premises of what had been until then a Working Lads' Institute stand on the north side of Whitechapel Road. He was a pioneer of boys' clubs and his work was the origin of the Probation Service. he also founded the Garment Workers Union as part of an anti-'sweating' campaign. The premises on Whitechapel Road were opened in 1971 by Princess Alexandra, and include a hostel run by the N.C.H. a bench has been preserved from the cottage in Sidney Street in which the first services were held. It is on the site of the Congregational Brunswick Chapel, which Jackson bought in 1906 as his Mission Hall. He died in 1932. Building byLee Reading Associates, c. 1971. Dark brick. Carefully planned with much packed into a small site. Ground-floor . shops with double-height top-lit church above, under a sloping boarded roof. Behind are assembly and meeting rooms, a residential hostel for thirty boys and, in the crypt, accommodation for the homeless.
Whitechapel Station. 1876. Between Stepney Green and Aldgate East on the District and Hammersmith and City Lines. Between Shoreditch and Shadwell on the East London Line. Built when the East London Railway was extended from Wapping to Shoreditch with a connection to Bishopsgate Junction. It was used by many railway companies – London Brighton and South Coast, London Chatham and Dover, South Eastern and Great Eastern. This was ‘Whitechapel’. In 1884 ‘Whitechapel Mile End Station’ was opened next door as an extension from Mark Lane as the Whitechapel Terminus Railway. The Whitechapel District Railway of 1884 built an independent terminus here and some trains ran there although they were supposed to be joining up with the East London Railway lines as ordered with the Metropolitan, Whitechapel and Bow Railway. So it was originally the terminus of the Metropolitan District Railway. In 1902 this was renamed ‘Whitechapel’ and the Whitechapel and Bow Railway was built from here to just short of Bromley by Bow and in 1936 extended to Barking and beyond. In 2006 the line to Shoreditch closed
An Act of 1897 allowed them to build a connecting line between District at Whitechapel and Bow terminus of London Tilbury and Southend Railway. Opened in 1902 and jointly owned Whitechapel. In 1880 trains ran from Croydon, Addiscombe Road, via the Whitechapel curve opened in 1884. In 1902 the line was extended for two miles beneath the Mile End Road to Bow Road and Campbell Road Junction, from which point it runs alongside the Tilbury and South end Line, later British Railways (Eastern Region), to Barking and Upminster. By 1905 the entire under- ground railway system in London had been converted from steam to electricity The East London Line to south London travels through the Thames Tunnel, the first tunnel built for transport under a major river. It was constructed by Marc Brunel
Whitechapel Waste market. Here, on Mile End Waste, William Booth began the work which led to the founding of the Salvation Army in 1865, and he has two memorials on Whitechapel Road. The busy street market opposite the London Hospital has as its backdrop a terrace with some much altered c18 houses. 2. Whitechapel Market was established here after the construction of this wide road. In the 1850s the traders were mostly Irish who had come over following the great famine of 1850, but by the turn of the century the traders were largely Jewish. Today most of the stallholders are Asian.
Playground London County Council l887. Opened by Countess of Latham. £2,700 given anonymously.