Dagenham Brook, River Lea and Phillibrook
The River Lea briefly
loops through the area. The Dagenham Brook passes through the area
northwest/south east and the Phillibrook flows south west
Post to the west Hackney Marshes
Post to the east Leyton
Post to the south Temple Mills
Post to the north Leyton
Isolation hospital in
iron hut on the sewage works. In 1889 the local board had housed infectious
cases on a temporary basis in Ruckholt Farm House. In 1891 they were moved to cottages
at the sewage works. In 1896 an iron hospital with 48 beds was built there and
remained until 1939.
Leyton sewage works.
This was built under pressure from the Court of Chancery when in 1878 the West
Ham board secured an order to prevent Leyton from using the Wanstead ditch to
dispose of sewage. In 1883 works opened
here to dispose of the sewage by chemical precipitation tanks. It was soon in financial
difficulties and abandoned by the operators with two days' notice. They were
then run directly by the board's surveyor who initiated a number of innovative schemes
– first of all by separating surface, and storm, water from the foul sewers. In
1896 the Board installed an 8 cell destructor to deal with the accumulation of
residual sludge and this also burned household refuse with a by-product of
saleable clinker and ash. Steam was thus produced in a pair of Babcock and
Wilcox tubular boilers, which was used to power machinery on the works. The success of this system gave Leyton a high
reputation as a pioneer of sanitary improvement. From 1909 pressed sludge was sold as manure. Leyton
was unable to get into the London main drainage system but in 1927, the sewers
were connected to the London County Council system at Hackney. Thenceforth, the
Leyton tanks were used for storage of storm water only. In 1962–3 Leyton changed
to a bulk disposal of refuse by tipping outside the borough although the
destructor continued to consume unsuitable material. The works was finally abandoned leaving one
impressive red brick chimney with a plaque on it listing out the work achieved
on the site and the vestry members involved.
This too has now, sadly, gone – and Edith can find no mention of it on
the net, let alone a picture. This is
now a waste disposal site run by a private operator.
Leyton Orient Football
Club Matchroom Stadium. The club began as Clapton Orient in 1881 and moved to
Leyton in 1936 having been at a site in Millfields, Clapton. . Before then it had been
used by Leyton Football Club which moved to the Hare and Hounds ground. The ground
is also used by a reserve team of the Tottenham Club. After the Second World
War the ground was improved with levelling and barrier installation. In 1956 a
stand was installed from Mitcham Stadium. In 1996 an area became a car park.
The main stand is called West Stand which also has offices, shop and ticket
office – as well as a posh area for the directors. Players' changing rooms are
below. The East Stand is older and contains another area for posh people called
Wyvern Suite. The North Stand dates from 2007. The Tommy Johnston Stand dates from 1999 and is in the
south. A block of flats backs on to it
Mary’s church. St Mary
with St Edward and St Luke. This is the old parish church of what was once a much
larger area. There has been a church
here since at least 1130 and it may have a Saxon foundation, John Strype, the
antiquarian, was rector in the early 18th. The oldest surviving part
is the red brick tower built 1658, with an 18th clock cupola brought from
Leyton Great House in 1806. There are old
bells. Parts may date from 1794, parts from 1822 and further restoration
in 1929-32. Following a fire in 1995 a crèche was formed at the end by Kay
Pilsbury, Architects, who also created a chapel under the tower, and remodelled
the entrance. There are many monuments and artefacts including a 15th
font, an hourglass from 1693 and a carved poor box from 1826.
Churchyard. This is now a nature reserve with scattered trees, shrubs
and tall herbs. There are weighty tombs
from the time when Leyton was a retreat for City men and there us a row of
chest tombs along the main path. There was also the tomb of Samuel Bosanquet by
Sir John Soane.
Parish Hall – this is used by a karate club,
an Asian Disability Group and a Thursday dancing club
90 Oliver Twist Pub.
Closed in 2005. The windows have
etchings of Dickens’ characters conversion to flats.
Almshouses. John Smith’s Almshouses built
1656 and rebuilt 1885 by Richard Creed. They have knapped flint work and
early Crittall windows.
Fire Station, Built in 1992 by Rock Townsend. It is in yellow brick with
a drill tower behind
House. It is thought this was the site of a
moated house called ‘Godsalves’. The current house was built on the site of the bowling green in 1760 by
Edward Mores antiquary and printer. It
has a 19th stucco-Gothic front. It was the home of William Bowyer friend of Dr Johnson and
proprietor of The Gentleman's Magazine and from 1856 the country retreat
of Cardinal Wiseman. It then became the
St Agnes School and Orphanage until 1864 and its chapel was used as the local
catholic church. Converted to flats and
now surrounded by two- storey terraces. Lotus sculpture in the front garden
Elektron Works. Copeland
and Jenkins Ltd. The Company was set up in 1933 to process mica for use in
the electrical and electronics industries. The company made its own tools and
dies with factories in London and Wellingborough.
houses remaining from the British Land Company development of the Leyton Grange
Estate. Original cast iron fencing survives
Leyton Grange. The
Grange dates from Domesday and was an outlying
farm from the Abbey at Stratford Langthorne. A house stood on the north side of
Church Road at the point which is now the junction with Grange Park Road. It is
thought to have been demolished in the late 1640s although a gatehouse remained
for a while. A new house was built in the early 18th by David Gansel
which was home in the 19th to members of the Rhodes, developers and builders,
family and later to the Charringtons, brewers, the estate was sold to the
British Land Company for development in 1860
The land, which had been the site of a pit, and also watercress beds was
purchased for the gardens in 1902, which was the year of the coronation of King
Edward VII; but the park was not opened until 1905 and was laid out as a copy of a park in
East Ham. It was extended to Oliver Road in 1913.
Bandstand. Restored in 1999
Fountain stamped ‘A. Durenne’ built in 2000 is a replica of one originally
put up in the 1920s. The one in the 1920s was a war memorial paid
for by Alexanders, a local printing company
Pillar from the old General Post Office in London
Caribonum Factory. Set up in the 1900s as an offshoot of Lamson
Paragon and by 1930 selling Typewriter Ribbons and Carbon Papers and
other similar sundries with aggressive American sales methods. They began in Church
lane and a later factory was built by Wallis Gilbert in 1918 incorporating innovative
production areas and Egyptian type styling. It was demolished in 1980.
The road follows the
line of what was the drive to Leyton Grange house
St. Joseph’s Roman
Catholic Church opened in 1924 but not consecrated until 1930. It was built as a memorial to the Great War by Ernest Bower
Norris of Sandy & Norris and replaced a temporary church of 1904. It is a brick building with an interior in a
'Byzantine' style but much of the original furnishing have been changed
41 house built in the grounds of Leyton
Grange in the 1880s
49 Redemption Church.
This building was Grange Park Hall, apparently part of a grammar school, with a
short life. In the early 20th it was used as a cinema and later a
working men’s club.
Grange Park United Reformed Church. This was
founded as a congregational church in 1870 by Morgan Lloyd. A site was bought
and the church opened in 1874 and within three years was independent as Leyton
Congregational church. A hall was built in 1878. However differences developed and
the church became 'greatly disorganised'. An iron school was built in 1894, the
church enlarged in 1896, and new Sunday-school buildings opened in 1927.
The old village centre lay near the junction
with Grange Park Road.
John Strype Court.
These flats are on the site of the old vicarage where John Strype lived – he
was a reforming 17th vicar, and historian. The old Vicarage itself was demolished in 1957 for the
452 Grove House. Built on the
site of Cross House before 1806. It is a three-storey brick house. By the 1960
it was the Leyton and District Trades Hall and Institute who used it as a
club. It has recently been extended with
housing association flats and a new club room
Cross House. This house was also called Bushes
and was there in the mid 16th.
It was part of the estate of the Leyton Great House. It was sold to a
builder called Jesse Jackson in 1878.
471 Lido Cinema in 1910. This later became the Leyton and Leytonstone Club and Institute, and following that a shirt factory,
475 Lion and Key Corner Pub. In process of
being turned into sheltered housing. The first documentary evidence of
this pub is a possible record of 1579 but it is thought to be much older. It
has been speculated, from the name, that it was something to do with pilgrims – with the Key being to do with St.Peter. In its last years it was called The House Bar and was a music venue.
Grange Park House
Co-op. Built 1909 for Stratford Co-operative Society probably
by W.H. Cockcroft. With beehive motifs on the gable. The Stratford and Edmonton
Societies merged in 1920 to become the London Co-operative Society
Thomas Inskip was a
previous vicar of Leyton
Ive Farm House – this
was a two-storeyed brick house, probably late in the 17. It survived into the
Sports ground. With
running track, underused
This was the area of the estate around Leyton
Grange House. Roman remains have been
found here including, bricks, and tiles
complex, comprising one tower block and ten 4-storey courts. Said to be one of
the most deprived estates in Britain,
Slade Tower. The
first tower block in the area and built by the local authority in 1961. Eleven stories.
There are a series of other lower blocks.
The lane ends in the Lammas Lands by the
Lea, preserved as open space as a result of a local campaign in 1892
Marsh Lane Fields. The Settlement of St. Mary Eton derived
from a vision of the Virgin Mary at Eton College and she ordered the College to
establish a Settlement in Hackney for poor children in the area. One result was the setting up of what became
the Eton Manor Athletics Club. The Settlement acquired some in Leyton. Most of Leyton’s former Lammas Lands are within
the Lea Valley Regional Park.
Eton Manor Cottage
with plaque about the campaign on the Lammas Lands in 1892. Notice fixed to the front of
"The Cottage" which is at the end of Marsh Lane. The notice states: In
commemoration of Lammas Day 1892 when the people of Leyton led by C.G.Musgrave,
H. Humphreys and E.C.Pittam asserted the commoners rights and successfully
resisted the attempted encroachment upon these lands
Ice House. This was originally in the grounds of Etloe House and
is now in the area covered by, St Joseph's School. It is 18th or 19th
with a domed brick chamber and tunnel and the entrance set in a stone wall.
Dip in the road which
marks the course of the Phillebrook and where there was once a ford.
Housing in the
northern part of the road was developed originally by the British Land Company
facility stemming from the football club, offering and coordinating sports facilities
throughout the area.
Lea Mills mosaic. One of two large circular
mosaics in Oliver Road at the junction with Walnut Road. This commemorates the
mills in the Lea valley which are thought to have been here from the 11th to
the 19th centuries. Round the circumference are goods produced here. The one
exception is the football, seen here caught between two fishes, which arrived
there in the 21st century
75 Oliver Road Polyclinic.
Within the curtilage of the football club building
Football Club – entrances and turnstiles to the ground as part of their
building. There is a plaque about the history of the club alongside the ticket
Leyton Orient Supporters
Club, on the west stands on the Oliver road side of the ground.
Oliver Road allotments.
Trading shed in portacabins
umbrella factory moved here in 1939 from Walthamstow and was compulsorily purchased
by the local authority in 1968,
Road built in the early
21st on part of Temple Mills Marshalling Yard. The name obviously
relates to the nearby football club
This was once part of
Preserves factory in
21 Cleaning factory
in the 1970s
25-27 part of the
British Land Company development of the 1860s
Site of Ruckholt Farm
Isolation hospital. Before
1889 the local board sent infectious cases to Plaistow or to London hospitals.
When the London hospitals refused to accept any more, a temporary arrangement
was made in Ruckholt farm-house until 1891.
St Eleftherios Greek Orthodox
Church. This was previously St. Luke’s church. This had begun in 1901 when an
iron mission was opened. In 1914 the permanent church was built in grey
terracotta to the design of E. D. Hoyland. The church was bombed in the Second
World War, but was subsequently restored.
marshalling yard. This is the northern end of the Temple Mills complex. Temple Mills yard’s construction had been formally
approved in 1954 as part of the British Transport Commission’s Modernisation
Plan of 1955. It included a traction maintenance depot but by the 1960e containerisation of freight made hump
sorting of trucks, redundant. The yards, capable of handling 4,000 wagons a
day, were only dealing with 250 by 1982. Nib 1996 it was taken
over by ’London & Continental Railways’’ as a depot for the Channel tunnel rail
link. Construction of a new depot for Eurostar was agreed in 2004. It was opened in 2007 by the then Transport
Secretary, Tom Harris MP. It is called ‘’Eurostar Engineering Centre’’, and has
been built with UIC European Loading Gauge to accommodate future passenger
rolling stock. The very large main building is rectangular clad with grey
sheeting, and is northeast of the Tottenham Hale to Stratford line. Eight tracks
enter the depot structure the south east. It is electrified with overhead
wires, which extend into the depot building over all eight tracks. At the depot's
north west end is a building housing heavy repair gear. On the tracks is an
automatic train washer, which trains can pass through when arriving or leaving
Temple Mills Wagon works. This closed in
1983. It had belonged to the great eastern railway company where about 500 wagons could be repaired and ten new built a week. The
works helped in the development of new
rolling stock for freight containers – Freightliner - and cars for the Channel
Land north of this
was part of the Grange Park Estate built in 1860s by British Land Co.
48 original house on
the Grange Park Estate built by the British Land Company on the 1860s
64 garden with many unusual plants and a romantic
character early in the season,
Thornhill Gardens. Flats built in 1955 by
the local authority on Second World War bomb sites.
Housing built in 1959,
on the site of the council's old works depot at Ive farm to rehouse Crescent
Booklet on Leyton Sewage Works
Chapman, Great Houses of Walthamstow. Web site
Clunn. The Face of London
Dead pubs web site
Exploring East London web site
Graces Guide web site
Islingtongue blog site
Kent Rail web site
Nairn. Nairn’s London
Pevsner and Cherry. London East
Victoria County History Essex
Walford. Village London
Wikipedia page on Leyton Orient