Sunday, 27 November 2016

Riverside north bank west of the Tower. Fulham Palace Road and riverside

This post shows sites north of the river only South of the river is Harrods Village


Post to the north Central Hammersmith
Post to the south Barn Elms
Post to the west Castemau
Post to the south Fulham Bishops Park



Adeney Close
This appears to be a group of 1970s housing built partly on the site of Adeney Road following a reconfiguration of the area

Aspenlea Road
Hospital buildings – much of the north side of the street is taken up with buildings from the huge hospital complex to the north
Charing Cross Sports Club. This is within the hospital complex but apparently open to the public. It includes the Hammersmith and Fulham School of Gymnastics which opened in 2012
65 Riverside Studios. This is a temporary location for the Studios while their main complex in Crisp Road is being rebuilt. This block which appears to date from the 1960s and was part of the hospital complex but has since housed a wide variety of organisations, including, currently Mencap. The building appears to have been part of the Charing Cross Hospital .The site appears to have been housing but post Second World War was the site of the Hope Laundry and the Fulham Economic Laundry.


Crab Tree Lane
Adams Wharf.  Fragments of pottery were found here during construction and it is thought they came from a pottery known to have stood near the Crabtree Hotel.
Crab Tree Hall.   This dates from 1927 designed by S.Clough,.It was intended as a public hall with flats and shops.
The Boat House. This is a building of 1912 replacing one of 1865
Crabtree Wharf.  Joseph Mears Ltd., contractors, hauliers and wharfingers were on this site form the 1890s. They ran a fleet of at least four sailing barges. The main building was an L-shaped three-storey brick block and was originally a multi-storey stable for about 300 horses. Ramps originally linked the floors but were removed after a fire in the 1950s. Vertical grooves on the columns showed where boarding had separated the stalls and a number of tethering rings survived. There is also a 19th office block and two single-storey sheds. On the river front was a large electric derrick. The Mears brothers were active in the early Chelsea Football Club.
Crabtree Dock. This was a site for a marine engineering and boat-building business.
Palace Wharf. This is the current name for the Rathbone Works, architectural decorators.  It dates from 1907 and was the former Jackson's Plaster works – suppliers of decorative plaster effects. . The original 1907 building has metal casement windows with blue brick arches. The ground floor of it was originally used as stables. There is also an extension to the works built in 1933, designed by H. Shaw. The works was built on the site of a malt house and then a marble importing wharf from 1907.  It has later been used as artists’ studios etc and an area called the Foundry.
Bollards. Palace Wharf. These are thought to be Parish boundary markers from Westminster. One is inscribed 'St John the Evangelist' and the other 'St Margaret & St John, Westminster'.
Drawdock. This was a river crossing place


Crabtree Village
This was a riverside settlement at the river end of Crabtree Lane - crab apple trees are supposed to have grown there.
Malt House. This was here in 1790 and owned by a Joseph Attersoll. He also had a chalk wharf, lime kilns and a vitriol manufactory

Distillery Road
Hammersmith Distillery stood at the end of Distillery Lane which was short cul de sac off Fulham Palace Road leading to the distillery. In 1975 Elmdale and Playfair Streets were demolished and Distillery Road, partly in the square to the north was created to turn south east from what had been Distillery Lane and run parallel and south to Fulham Palace Road turning towards the river. It now ends in a development site on the riverside.
Crisp House - the riverside at the end of Chancellors Road and what is now Distillery Road is said to be the site of the house of 17th Sir Nicholas Crisp.  He rebuilt the house which he had inherited from his mother. In the Civil War the house was commandeered by Parliamentary troops and eventually Royalist Crisp fled to France. On his return he interested himself in building up industries here and elsewhere.  In 1792 it was sold to the Margrave of Brandenburgh-Anspach, who died in 1806. Many alterations were then made and it was renamed Brandenburgh House.
Brandenburgh House.  This was later the home of George IV’s estranged wife, Caroline. A year after her death in 1821, the house was sold and demolished. The distillery was on its site by 1857
Distillery.  This distillery is said to have opened in 1857 by a southern based branch of the Scottish whisky distiller, H & J Haig, and later became the Distillers Company, The Distillers Company was formed out of a trade association called the Scotch Distillers’ Association which had formed in 1865 and of which Haig was part. From about 1910 the plant was used for the development and manufacture of industrial alcohols.


Everington Street
Fulham Gilliat School. This was built in 1882 as Everington Street School taking boys, girls and infants.  In 1951 it was renamed Everington School. In 1961 the senior school was merged with Queens Court School and it became Gilliat School. Alice Gilliat was the first woman to be mayor of Fulham. There is now housing on the site.

Fulham Palace Road
Fulham workhouse. This was set up in 1848 and designed by Alfred Gilbert. An infirmary was added which as time went on became a general hospital and the old workhouse became the Fulham Institution, a hospital caring for the chronic sick and aged. Eventually it became the Fulham Hospital 2. In 1957 the old workhouse buildings were demolished and have now been replaced by Charing Cross Hospital.
Fulham Hospital Complex. The earliest sites were fronted on St. Dunstan’s Road – marginally in the square to the north but the bulk of the complex in this square – so included here, and below under St. Dunstan’s Road
Charing Cross Hospital. This is on the site of Fulham workhouse. It is an acute general teaching hospital  opened in 1973 but originally established adjacent to the Strand in central London. It is now part of Imperial College Healthcare NHS Trust  After the Second World War it was decided to relocate the hospital away from central London and in 1957 a link was proposed with Fulham on Fulham Palace Road, was opened in 1973. It was designed by Ralph Tubbs as a fifteen-storey building in the shape of a cross. Three high-rise residential blocks were built to house medical staff, nurses and medical students—called Golding, Parsons and Cliff houses. There are some tile murals of rural workers that were once in the dining room of the workhouse.
Reclining Figure. Sculpture of 1963-65 by Henry Moore. This was first loaned to the hospital by the artist in 1975 and installed at a site of his choosing and set up at his expense in the water garden outside the main entrance.
Imperial College School of Medicine. The Charing Cross Hospital Medical School was formed in 1984 by the merger with Westminster Hospital Medical School and, in 1997, this merged with Imperial College London to create the, Imperial College School of Medicine. They house here academic departments and their laboratories. There is also a Pathology museum and Dissection rooms.
Reynolds Building. This is used extensively by Imperial College School of Medicine. It also houses a bar and area used by the Students' Union,
Parsons House. This is a hall of residence for Imperial College.
Maggie's Centre. In 2008 thus centre opened for anyone who is affected by cancer in London. It later won a Stirling Prize for design which is by Rogers Stirk Harbour Partners 2008
West London Neuroscience Centre
West London Mental Health Centre. This was designed by the Frederick Gibberd Partnership with secure residential spaces allowing patients as much outdoor access as possible. There is a sculpture by Bill Woodrow called Celloswarm and installed in 2002
Riverside Wing. This was designed as a new Day Hospital by Ansell and Bailey in 2006. At the staircase is an art installation by David Mach last year.
Hospital chapel. This is a polygonal space built 1969 - 1984 and designed by Ralph Tubbs. The stained glass is by John Piper and Patrick Reyntiens and shows the River of Life and the Tree of Life. Stained glass by the altar is by Alfred Fisher. 
Landscaped grounds with garden areas and sculptures. In a basement-level cobbled courtyard is a bronze 'Horse and Rider' by Robert Clatworthy on loan from the British Land Company since 1995. There is an abstract stone sculpture by Tadeusz Koper on the grass by the car park donated by the artist. The wrought iron weathervane from the old Fulham Infirmary of 1884 is in the garden with an interpretation plaque
Fulham Cemetery.  In 1865 Fulham Burial Board established a cemetery here on an old nursery site. It was laid out by John Hall who designed the lodge at the entrance and two Gothic-style chapels, one of which was a Dissenters chapel which is now demolished. The Church of England chapel has a sculpture of Christ, two angels and three sleeping crusaders. The lodge, designed as a home for the superintendent, has the Bishop of London’s Arms shown on the outside wall.  There are stone walls and railings and walks lined with trees on a grid pattern  It was extended several times and by 1908 had been superseded by a cemetery at North Sheen. There is a Cross of Sacrifice which commemorates the dead of both world wars, erected by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission. It was designed in 1919 by Reginald Blomfield, with a stone cross with bronze crusader sword pointing downwards.
Melcombe Primary School. This was a school building by Bailey as architect to the London School Board giving particular attention to light as recommended by the London Country Council medical officers. The school is larger and longer than its predecessors with classrooms oriented towards the playground rather than the road. It was opened in 1902
175–177 Greyhound Pub. This old pub, once famous for its rock gigs, now seems to be called the Southern Belle. It has also been called Puzzle, Astro Bar and the Cosmic Comedy Club.
St Clement’s Church. This was originally on the corner of Crabtree Lane and is a district church for the Fulham Parish.  It was founded in 1886.  In the 1960s it was linked to St.Etheldreda’s. By the winter of 1964/5 services were held in a chapel in the Vicarage because of the cost of heating the church. It was decided to demolish it and replace with a smaller building. The old church was replaced by flats by Shepherd's Bush Housing Association, and the new church, designed by Michael Briscoe and on the site of the old hall was dedicated in 1978.
Sandell’s Corner. This was named after a gardener who had a business on what is now the Lillie Road Recreation ground.
Recreation Ground. The railings along the road are set back to produce a grass verge along the road and shrubs have been planted there.
Public Conveniences. These date from 1894, with a gable above a big central archway. They were converted to offices in 1986.
Pillar Box from the reign of Edward VII. This is on the corner of Niton Road

Holyport Road
Wheatsheaf Wharf. In the 1930s this wharf was in the ownership of Joseph Mears
Wheatsheaf Wharf. Before the Great War this was in use by Oil Refiners Ltd. This appears to have been an edible oils business making margarine which moved to Manchester.
Wheatsheaf Wharf.  Dip lock Caterpillar Tractor Company business under Brahma Dip lock who had invented a ‘caterpillar’ type traction engine with feet called The Bedrail. This was later to contribute to the development of the military tank and various tractor applications
Rosebank. This was a house built 1809 by the Earl of Cholmondley and burnt down in 1864. Rebuilt, it was eventually demolished in 1934. Its ornamental grounds extended 565 feet along the river frontage and included a circular building, which were the dairy and larder as well as many important and rare trees.
Rosebank Wharf. This was used by Greenham building and demolition contractors but also by the Newcastle Coal and Shipping Co. As a coal transhipment wharf. Special vessels had to be constructed to work the wharf.
Rosebank Engineering works,

Lanarch Road
Crabtree Farm. The last farmers were the Matyear family. When the George Matyear died in 1910 he left his land to the King Edward VII Hospital Fund who sold it on to local developers Allen and Norris and development began on the Crabtree Lane Estate within a year. 

Lillie Road
Named for Sir John Scott Lillie, a veteran of the Peninsular War who owned land here
Lillie Road Recreation Ground. In the 17th this site was an orchard and gravel pits owned by Lady Pye, mother of Sir Nicholas Crispe. The park is used for sport and there is a sports centre.
378 Bishop Creighton House. Community Centre. This was named after a previous Bishop of London in the 1890s who lived in Fulham Palace. Three houses here were set up by his widow as a settlement in his memory. In 1912 a Play Centre was opened and work with local children began. In the following years a Boys Club was set up, and Invalid Kitchen, and a Child Guidance Clinic, Pensioners Clubs among much else. In 1960 it became the headquarters of the British Association of Residential Settlements providing support for other charities and organisations
Lillie Road Fitness Centre. Local Authority run gym which appears to be in the old park pavilion
354 Ebenezer Baptist Chapel. This building appears to be in commercial use. It has recently been in use as a mosque. A plaque or foundation stone on the outside has been rendered illegible.
Mackenzie Trench flats, since demolished.  They were built on the site of a previous Police Station.

Lysia Street
Queens Manor Primary School. This is a special needs unit in a large building from 1903-4 by T J Bailey for the School Board for London. The site includes play sheds and a school keeper’s house.
Blake’s Wharf.  A small park provides a river vista for the school beyond.  The bases of former silos have been incorporated into play areas and it is used as an outdoor play area.  There was previously a social services project here helping special needs clients to find work.
Blake’s Wharf. This dates from the early 20th and was operated by W.E.Blake for packing and general wharfage. Blake was however primarily a building contractor undertaking major contracts throughout the country.  In 1915 at the request of the Ministry of Munitions he set up the Blake Explosives Loading Company and built here a factory to fill grenades as well as a grenade factory.  By 1929 Blake was Mayor of Fulham.

Margravine Road
14 The Pear Tree

Manbre Road
King Henrys reach, Gated flats development on the site of what was the Manbre Wharf.
Manbre Sugar Works. Alexander Manbre came to England in the 1850s and lodged various patents for sugar manufacture with works based in the City and Southwark. The works in Hammersmith opened in 1876 to make glucose for brewing and other specialist applications initially as the Manbre Saccharine Co. Following various mergers in 1919 they became Manbre Sugar and Malt Ltd. with Albert Berry as Chair. In 1926 they took over Garton of Battersea and in the 1930s the Hammersmith plant began to supply liquid sugars to the food industry. They continued to take over other sugar producers and to build international links. In due they were taken over themselves by Tate and Lyle and the Hammersmith works closed in 1979.
Manbre Technical Block. This was built on the site of the buildings of the dairy of the Brandenburgh Estate Farm – which buildings had previously been used by the firm.

Rainville Road
Duckham's oil storage depot. Alexander Duckham and Co, originated in Kent as one of the family of Millwall engineers. They made industrial lubricants, cutting oils, greases and degreasants and preservatives, commercial lubricating oils. They moved to Thames Wharf in 1921. By 1967 they were the largest independent lubricating oil company in the U.K and third largest supplier of engine oil to motorists. In 1969 they were acquired by British Petroleum and the Fulham depot closed in 1978
Thames Reach. Three groups of flats by Richard Rogers Partnership built 1985-8. This has five storeys of curtain-walling to the river, with white tubular steel balconies.
Thames Wharf Studios.  Offices in a 1950s industrial building once Duckham's oil refinery. It was converted by Lifschutz Davidson for Rogers's own offices with lettable workshops and office units as well as new housing. The Rogers office's double-height entrance lobby was developed as a gallery where project models are exhibited. A rooftop extension shaped like a 'bread bin', was designed by Lifschutz Davidson Sandilands.  The freeholds have been owned since 2007 by two Guernsey companies and a pension fund which also acquired Richard Rogers' share in 2007. What is now called Rogers Stirk Harbour + Partners remain as tenants.
Pokemon. In 2009 first floor offices were let to Pokémon the video and card game company.
Green Dot Ltd. this is a UK subsidiary of Grüne Punkt GmbH, a Europe wide waste recycling company
The River Café. This was originally run by Ruth Rogers and Rose Gray, now it is only Mrs Rogers.  It was designed as a restaurant for staff at the Studios and opened in 1987.  They work to an Italian menu. There is a garden with plants many of which are edible and there are Thames Views.
Dorset Cottage. This is shown on maps of the early 18th. It was demolished in 1890 by which time the grounds had been converted to a wharf
Dorset Wharf. Warehouse of the corn merchants, Hood and Moore.  Ltd. from 1890.
Dorset Wharf.  The Anglo American Oil Company were established here. This had originally been established here in the late 19th. They used using the wharf to land lamp oil. It later became the Esso Oil Depot
158 Dorset Wharf Community Hall
Tea Rose Wharf. This was also in use by the Anglo American Oil Company for oil storage.
Greyhound Wharf.
Used by Hood and Moore, for hay and moss litter imports. It was also used by a folding box company.
Crab Tree pub. In the 1760s this was called he ‘The Pot House’ after an adjacent pottery. It was on the edge of the farm land. It became the Three Jolly Gardeners and later The Crabtree.  In 1817 it was described as “a picturesque old inn in front of which was a small open space enclosed from the river by a wall. Here a few seats were disposed for the use of customers.” This old building was demolished and the present building, by Messrs. Bird and Walters was built in 1898 in the Arts and Crafts tradition. It is much larger and it is thought that use as a hotel could have been intended. Alterations were carried out in 1935 by the architects F J Fisher & Son

Rannoch Road
Lyons Wharf. Barges with goods for Cadby Hall could unload here while also in transit to their Greenford Factory via Brentford Dock. Lyons had a works here from 1928 making a wide range of food products. After the Second World War they operated a soft drink factory here, in particular all Sunfresh, but jam and frozen food was also made here. The factory also housed a works department. The factory closed in 1988 mainly because of the problems of lorry operations in what had become a built up area and following a merger with Britvic
Pimlico Wheel Works. This was Smith, Parfrey and Co, before and during the Great War, They specialised in wheels, axles, springs, bent timber, forgings and motor repairs of every description. 

River
Thames Aqueducts. The ring main passes under here.


St.Dunstan’s Road
Although this road is in the square to the north the hospital site is given here for the sake of simplicity.
The Fulham Union Infirmary. The Fulham workhouse had been opened in Fulham Palace Road in 1849, the infirmary was built north of the workhouse in 1884 to provide medical care to the workhouse sick.  Many patients were the senile elderly or the chronically sick. In 1905 an Operating Room was installed and a Nurses' Home built on the west side of Fulham Palace Road  In 1915 the War Office took over the workhouse and Infirmary it became the Fulham Military Hospital with 1,000 beds.  The Army improved and upgraded conditions at the Hospital but as the war ended just as the Spanish flu epidemic began and many died. Returned to the local authority by 1922 bed numbers had increased to 550. in 1925 it was decided to change the name again because of the stigma attached to the word 'infirmary' and it became 'St Christopher's Hospital' but this was quickly changed to 'Fulham Hospital' . In 1930 the London County Council took over administration of the Hospital and in 1934 the Hospital and the Institute merged as Fulham Hospitals 1 and 2. In the Second World War the Hospital received wounded soldiers from and was also bombed on several occasions.  In 1948 it joined the NHS, with 394 beds and a converted ward served as an Out-Patients Department. Plans for rebuilding were considered but in 1959 it emerged that Charing Cross Hospital would be coming to Fulham Despite local protests. The Fulham Hospital was demolished piece by piece and finally closed in 1973. The new Charing Cross Hospital was opened the same year. What r4mains is a 0-ft high black painted weathervane which now stands in the garden behind the main Charing Cross Hospital building.


Stevenage Road
Rowberry Mead. Small park which includes industrial sculptures and silos. In the 19th the area was used to grow and dry osiers for basket making and it was the site of a 17th homestead. In the 20th it was an oil distribution depot

Winslow Road
Called after Dr Winslow who had nineteenth century mental home in the area, was Brandenburg Road but changed in First World War

Woodlawn Road
Finlay Street School. This opened in 1905. It is in brick wirth tal1 timber sash windows. It is thought to have been designed by Henry R Perry. Four of the original cast iron rainwater hoppers and downpipes remain.


Sources
Bird. The First Food Empire.
Clunn. The Face of London
Field. London Place Names, 
Fulham and Hammersmith Historical Society. Buildings to see in Fulham and Hammersmith
GLIAS Newsletter
Grace’s Guide. Web site
Greater London Council. Thames Guidelines
Hammersmith Embankment. Web site
Hasker.  The Place which is called Fulanham
London Borough of Hammersmith and Fulham. Web site
London Open House. Web site
London Parks Online. Web site
Lost Hospitals of London. Web site
Stoddard. Manbre. One Hundred Years of Sugar in Hammersmith
Pevsner and Cherry.  North West London
St Etheldreda with St.Clement’s. Web site


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