Riverside east of the Tower - north bank. Millwall
Riverside and dockland area. The riverside once had numerous important industrial sites, many dealing with timber imports, now entirely used for 20th 'exclusive' housing. The area includes the Millwall Dock and its major grain handling facilities latterly replaced by the fruit trade with. some main line rail interchanges. All replaced with 20th office and housing developments. The area is still under intense development pressure. There is also 19th and 20th housing with some social support institutions.
Post to the north Canary Wharf
Post to the south Millwall and Deptford Riverside
Post to the east Blackwall and Greenwich Peninsula West
Post to the west Greenland Dock
This area, called Waterside, was developed jointly by the Wiggins Group, and Port of London Properties Ltd,
West India South Dock. These blocks were previously the sites of K and L sheds, with facilities for the storage of dates and figs imported from the Gulf. L shed also handled sugar in bulk while K handled exports.
Quay House. Built 1987-8 by Newman Levinson & Partners. Offices. Used by British Telecoms. There are now plans for a 70 storey tower on this site
Ensign House. Office suites
Statue outside Ensign House. Inscribed: "This sculpture salutes all London River Workers,Tosshers, Bargees, Dockers, Aletasters, Coalheavers, Ferrymen. Sculptor: John W. Mills. Date: 1987
Beaufort Court. Offices and flats by Richard Hemingway, 1985-6
The last fragments of marshland path remained at the end.
Housing dating from post 1870s, this was said to be large and respectable. There was a lot of Second World War bombing. Some of the street was developed by Poplar Borough Council in the 1940s including pre-cast Orlit houses. Other areas were part of the Greater London Council’s Barkentine Estate 1970.
Community Centre. This was converted in the 1970s by the Greater London Council from Alpha Grove Methodist Chapel by G. Limm, 1887, and its hall which was added in 1926 by Edwin Beasley.
This is called Arnhem after Arnhem Timber Company who used the riverside wharf from the mid-1960s (see Riverside)
Arnhem Wharf Primary School. This is a community school built in 1995. It was paid for by the London Docklands Development Corporation.
Built in 1965-70 by the Greater London Council’s Architect’s Department and since refurbished.
Laid out 1814 and was originally called Harriet Street after Byng’s wife. George Byng was the landowner.
John Bellamy’s Iron Tank works. They were on the north side of the street here from the 1860s and Expanded in the 1930s. They made tanks and boilers and other industrial plant.
Binks' wire rope and galvanising works. This was here in the 1830s. George Binks had worked at Woolwich Dockyard and developed a way of using traditional rope walk techniques using wire instead of hemp for rigging – but became most successful with applications like cable cars. Having been in a failed partnership Binks moved to adjacent Strafford Street. The works closed in 1970 and they were taken over by British Ropes at Charlton
140s Phoenix Heights Community Centre. This part of the Phoenix Heights development fronting onto Mastmaker Road.
More flats. This is built on the site of the Millwall Dock grain handling facilities and is an extension of Mastmaker Road.
Broadway Works. In 1897 the site here had been let to John Badger Clark, trading as George Clark & Son and developed as Broadway Works in 1898–9,a refinery for invert sugars, priming sugars and caramels. In 1928 the works was extended with the lease of part of the Western Granary. Broadway Works was rebuilt 1948 - 1955 and the firm diversified into the supply of sugars for food manufacture. There was a research department and cold chambers for crystallizing liquid invert. They were taken over by Brown & Polson 1956, and in 1964 the premises were sold to Tate & Lyle. Following major fires the works were improved in 1982–4 with treacle production, and brown sugar production. Road access shifted to the newly formed Mastmaker Road, partly to keep lorries off residential streets. In 2000 Tate and Lyle closed the plant and moved speciality syrups production to the Thames refinery site at nearby Silvertown. Flats have now been built on the site
One of the first streets to be developed in 1807 after the West India Dock had opened. It was originally called Robert Street, after local landowner and wharf owner, Robert Batson. West India Dock Pier is at the riverside end and Batsons Wharf and its successors lay along the south side. Bink's wire rope works lay along the north side of the eastern section of the road.
1 built in 1900-1 as the Millwall Working Men's Club and Institute. Built by William Bradford for the brewers who sponsored the club. Later used as a warehouse. The site had previously been the original part of Stephens, Smith & Co’s premises. The Club was secretly financed by Stansfeld of the Swan Brewery, Fulham. Bradford produced a brick building, with granolithic staircases. The ground floor had a games room with three billiard tables, two bagatelle tables, and a bar, On the first floor was a concert room seating 500, with a stage and dressing rooms, The club's closed in 1906. By the 1930s this was Eureka Mills, a graphite works. It was Morton’s canteen in 1992 it was used by Takara Belmont who made hairdressers' salon equipment.
26 Dock House pub and beerhouse, Built by Edward Beach, a builder it had three floors and cellars. It was later owned by the licensee of the City Arms, but later taken over by West's Brewery Ltd. and taken over by the Port of London Authority in 1919. It was a night-club latterly. It was demolished about 1937.
40 Telegraph Cable Company Ltd. They were on the site of Joad & Curling's rope works from the 1860s. Wire rope was made here until the 1880s.
40 Royal Iron Works. Stephens, Smith & Company built a new factory here from 1887. The business had been founded in 1875 by John Stephens, a marine engineer, at 1 Cuba Street. 40 was also used by J. G. Statter & Company, electrical engineers. Stephens, Smith's made cranes, hoists, lifts, paint mixers, conveyors and elevators, and light-steel constructional work. They had in the past made electric trams, locomotives and launches. In the 1920s F. F. Scott & Sons, shipping butchers and meat packers, installed refrigeration plant here, and there were other later occupants. The building was demolished in 1990. (fn. 14)
Morton's, riverside preserves handling wharf. A distribution depot, built in the 1950s on the corner with Westferry Road remained in use into the 1980s
Built in 1911 as part of Glengall Wharf. Closed in the 1980s.
This is now called Tiller Road
Office development behind gates built in 1985-8 by Richard Seifert & Partners. It is at the end of Millharbour on the corner of the dock.
Harbour Exchange Square
The Millwall Eastern Granary existed on this site and handled a large grain business from the Baltic States. In 1883 the Dock Company built a granary in D Yard to plans by Duckham. This had nine storeys, brick-built on deep concrete foundations. Inside four divisions were separated by firewalls, and also iron columns, timber floors, iron fire-doors and timber-and-wrought-iron roof trusses. Grain was sent by chute from quayside trucks to basement hoppers. Internal bucket elevators raised it to hoppers and from them it was distributed to bin or storage floors. It was converted for general storage in 1927, with the machinery removed. It was demolished in 1965–6, to provide open ground for heavy cargo.
Fred Olsen – plans for the redevelopment of the entire east quay were agreed and a number of sheds were erected for the Fred Olsen Lines. In 1968 Olsen agreed to pay for and build two sheds, a passenger terminal, and an office and amenity building at J, K and M Berths. The PLA's engineers designed the sheds , J and K Sheds were built in 1969 These covered enormous clear floors, each 625ft by 200ft but Olsen moved to Southampton. The sheds were operated by the PLA as the Canary Islands Terminal until 1980. J Shed (then known as Olsen Shed 1) was refurbished in 1984 by Maskell Warehousing. In 1981 as the London Docklands Development Corporation began to be set up, their shadow staff moved into this building as offices, renaming it West India House. Shed 2 became the London Arena.
Harbour Exchange. This was built 1986-90 on the site of the recently refurbished J shed, by then West India House. It was designed mostly by Frederick Gibberd, Coombes & Partners and facing inwards to Exchange Square. It has offices in eight buildings and a central square surrounded by shops, restaurants and a pub, with a promenade on Millwall Inner Dock. A curved of blue reflective glass follows the DLR.
Exchange Tower. This was built as two distinct buildings complete with two individual entrances but a common foundation. It has 17 floors to save on cladding costs
Sculpture. Wind of Change by Andre Wallace, 1989-90, for the developers. Charter Group. Two pairs of mysterious bronze figures in tiny boats; in each pair a woman.
Cranes. A row of cranes, by Stothert & Pitt, 1960s. They stand either side of the pub.
10-39 Harbour Island. By Haverstock Associates and part of Harbour Exchange it is built out on piles over the dock. The pub is on this section
19 The Spinnaker Pub. Originally fitted out by Greene King
Millwall Dock Promenade. A dockside promenade with conference centre and business apartments stretch out on piers overlooking the water activity.
Previously Thomas Street. Developed in the 1840s.
20 Pride of the Isle. Beerhouse and Pub. .
St Luke’s church, now closed. This was originally the parish rooms built 1883 and extended in 1912 by W. G. St J. Cogswell. The original church had stood on the corner of Strafford Street and Alpha Grove but it was bombed during the Second World and demolished. The adjacent parish rooms were converted into a church and the old church site was sold to the council for housing and the ‘Friendship Club’. Following the closure of this second church in 2012, the Bishop of Stepney instigated the St Luke's, Millwall Mission Initiative which meets at Alpha Grove Community Centre.. A new church is planned and a small war memorial plaque from the old church will be repositioned in the proposed new building.
Vicarage. Demolished in 2008. It was built in 1873 by Hooper & Lewis
War Memorial on the St.Luke’s site
Rotating Sculptures. They are alongside a block called Hutching's Wharf. These two metallic structures rotate so that the shape of the composition is perpetually changing.
This was once called Jane Street
St Hubert's House. Built 1935-6 for the Isle of Dogs Housing Society by Ian B. Hamilton. There are posts with St Hubert's stags, probably in Doulton's Polychrome Stoneware by Gilbert Bayes.
Coconut Fibre Works. This site was north of the street
Janet Street (mentally defective) School. The large site north of the street was leased by the London School Board after 1900. In 1906 the LCC built a special school here. By 1922 it was over capacity but by 1931 the roll had fallen and the school was closed. The building was later used as the Infants' Department of Glengall Road School, eventually closing in March 1945 having been bombed.
This is the northwards continuation of East Ferry Road from Crossharbour station. It forms the boundary between the Enterprise Zone and Cubitt Town and its course is shadowed by the DLR line. It is built on an area of rail lines running southwards down the east side of the Millwall Dock – the Millwall Extension Railway and lines servicing warehouses and wharves.
38 Lotus Floating Chinese restaurant
Crossharbour Station. Built in 1987 it lies between South Quay and Mudchute on the Docklands Light Railway. 1994 renamed ‘Crossharbour and London Arena’. 2007 renamed ‘Crossharbour’ after the arena was demolished. Trains sometimes terminate here
London Arena. This was a rebuild of the Fred Olsen, Shed 2, tomato and banana warehouse which opened in 1989 with a capacity of up to 15,000. It was converted in 1985-9 by Stewart K. Riddick & Partners. It had exhibition and sports facilities with flexible performing space and auditorium. By the use of hydraulically powered banks of seats, seating capacities could be changed within a short period. Two balconies could carry indoor sprint tracks while the main concrete floor could form an ice-rink. It was the home of the ice hockey and basketball teams. It also hosted boxing matches and wrestling events and was used as a live music venue. The arena was never a financial success and closed in 2005. It was demolished in June 2006 and has been replaced by Alexia Square
This was called Charles Street in the mid 19th
Seven Mills Primary School. This was opened in 1968 on the site of Millwall Central School.
Millwall Central Council School. In 1902–3, powers were obtained by the London School Board to buy a site on the north side Janet Street for a Higher Grade school but this was not done although a special school was built on part of the site. . In 1913 there was a need to provide more school places and reduce class sizes and in the 1928 a new school opened. It was designed by one of the assistant architects to the LCC, J. R. Stark. The school had a central two-storey block with side wings in brick. There was no grand central entrance, and on the south side the classrooms opened directly on to the playground. The building was bombed in the Second World War and the site is one occupied by Seven Mills Primary School.
Knighthead Point. 22 storey block built in 1968
This was originally Alfred Street
74 North Pole. This pub dated from the 1860s and was closed in 2014.
Solray Works. Make heating and cooling panels.
50 Electricity Converter Station of 1919-20, which supplied electricity to Millwall Docks. This is now a private health clinic.
161 Island Quay. Scandinavian Centre. Another Swedish-style office building, which is stands on piles South West India Dock between Heron Quays and South Quay. completed in 1988 and Designed as the Scandinavian Trade Centre by Sten Samuelson and Kla Nilsson but later became offices for Price Waterhouse
163 Britannia Hotel. This began as The International Hotel, Arrowhead Quay. Built 1989– 92 designed by Watkins Gray International. in March 1990, the unfinished building was sold to Britannia Hotels. There are two classical style statues outside the entrance of the Hotel. One is of a child mounted on a centaur and. The other a woman and winged child on a lioness.
Obelisk. Vowel of Earth Dreaming its Root. This is on the corner with Mastmaker Road there are also square blocks as a contrast to the tall conical shape. Sculptress: Eilis O'Connell
Millwall Cut Bridge. Built 1987 by Rendel Palmer and Tritton. The old road bridge had to be opened to allow boats to get to Timber Wharf and would often get stuck
South Quay Station. This is on the Docklands Light Railway between Crossharbour and Heron Quays Stations. It is on the south shore of the South Dock and the station platforms are astride the channel connecting Millwall Dock to the West India Docks. The original South Quay station opened in 1987, and was an elevated station constrained by sharp curves and could not be further extended on its former site. In 1996 a bomb killed 2 people and injured over 30 and a memorial plaque, commemorated the victims. In 2004 plans to close and replace it were announced. The new station, on a straight section of track to the east, opened in 2009.
197 The Mansion, although previously called Fleet House. It was designed by Richard Seifert Ltd, 1988-9. Now University of Sunderland, London Campus. They provide business education.
199-207 Meridian Gate, 1987-90 by SSC Consultants designed for the CORDOR Group, a Kuwaiti consortium. The Estate consists f office buildings on the waterfront of South Quay. It has small business units with housing from 1997. It is currently being redeveloped with a tower block and housing and some amenities.
Grain Depot. The grain trade in the Port of London and Europe was centered on The Millwall Docks in the mid 19th. Here is depot was set with a transit function. Frederick Duckham introduced new equipment from 1876 to allow grain bins to be carried on miles of new railway sidings. In 1881 Duckham designed a Grain Depot to house the tricks and it was sited on land west of the Inner Dock. It was a large opened sided steel structure with 78 sidings which could handle 800 grain trucks. There were loading platforms along the west side and 27 bays. In the Great War half of it was used by the War Office for canned goods and the rest converted by the PLA for wool and grain storage. Much of it was destroyed in Second World War bombing and the rest demolished in 1948. The site was used for open storage, then from 1965 as a marshalled area for lorries. Mastmaker Road and the area around it is now on the site.
20-34 Mastmaker Court. This was built by Pirin Ltd. in 1987. It consists of two blocks of 'shiny sheds' used for light industrial and office units
4 Phoenix Heights, This has mixed tenure homes with integral community areas with a high proportion of family homes. A community space incorporates a rooftop sports pitch. The project was designed by Brady Mallalieu Architects and was developed by the Irish property firm Ballymore.
Mellish was a local landowner and shipbuilder.
Memorial Gardens. Opened in 2001 by the Queen Mother This garden is dedicated to the memory of all those who have lived or worked on the Isle of Dogs
Rawalpindi House. Built on the Orlit system by the Borough Engineer and Surveyor, W.J. Rankin in 1947-8, was the first block of precast concrete-framed flats in Britain and as such was much discussed in the national and technical press. It was named after a British merchant ship sunk by the German Navy in 1939. Since demolished
105 Barkentine Community Nursery
Millwall Central Granary was opened in 1903 the first granary in the Port of London to deal with the Baltic trade. The ten-storey building was 30m high and could hold up to 24,000 tons of grain in store. It was demolished during the 1970s. Millharbour covers its site and that of the associated area. The street follows the side of Millwall Inner Dock. It is lined by some of the earliest industrial buildings of the Enterprise Zone.
1 Pan Peninsula is a residential development consisting of two towers. Both buildings were completed in early 2009, with the first residents moving in. It was designed by Skidmore, Owings and Merril for Irish developer Ballymore. The 48th floor of the taller tower houses a cocktail bar and the tops of the towers resemble lanterns with strong features that are very visible on the skyline and change colour.
Great Eastern Enterprise. A green office building, on ground and five upper floors, which was on the comer of Marsh Wall and Mill Harbour. Its name recalled Brunel’s Great Eastern which was launched in 1858 from the Isle of Dogs. Demolished.
3 Visitor Centre. The London Docklands Development Corporation had an exhibition area and shop here.
33 Advance House. This was developed by Advanced Textile Products for its own use, designed by Nicholas Lacey, Jobst & Hyett, and was completed in 1987
22 Lanterns Court. Built 1983-4. These are brick-clad units, based on a pre-existing industrial building.
Indescon Court by Richard Seifert & Partners built 1982-3. Now redeveloped.
Note – this covers the dock areas except for the south quay of the Outer Dock, thus the McDougall Mill and Hoopers are on the next square.
Millwall Dock was designed by John Fowler and William Wilson, and opened in 1868. The contractors were Kelk and Aird. Originally the dock was to provide space for manufacturing including flour and timber mills but later they developed into trading docks specialising in grain and timber. The company’s resident engineer Frederick Duckham invented the first pneumatic system for shifting grain from ship to shore and later a vast central granary was built. The dock was L-shaped - William Wilson’s original plan was reduced in execution from an inverted 'T. it was linked at one end to the West India Docks only in 1924. It was never very financially successful.
Sailing Centre – this fronts onto West Ferry Road.
Fred Olsen Centre was built in the 1960s with advanced systems for handling palletised fruit. M shed in particular was a sophisticated structure opened in 1967. It replaced the rest of Fred Olsen's No. 2 shed and the Fred Olsen Centre, 1966-9, which established the reputation of Norman Foster - at Olsen's especially important the early use of mirror glass, specially made in Pittsburgh, for the walling of the office and amenity block slotted between two of the transit sheds. An open foyer spanned by a big blue bowed roof; two ventilation towers for the tunnel rise above, with curved tops, and platform canopies form an inverted bow beyond. All of this has now gone apart from sheds re-erected at Tilbury.
Pump. Objet-trouve sculpture of 1924 salvaged from pneumatic grain-handling equipment in front of the flourmills at the Royal Victoria Dock.
Millwall Dock Road
The road was built on the site of the Millwall Jute Works, and to run between Glengall Iron Works and Walker’s Iron Works sites. At the end of the road are barracked and derelict gates.
Millwall Jute Works. This is said to have been processing tow for Dundee jute works
Millwall (Rovers) played their first season matches in 1885on a pitch thought to be near here. Possibly near Caravel Close or somewhere near Glengall Iron Works where a school was later sited.
Millwall. This district is named from a stretch of river wall -earlier Marsh Wall 1754 - on which several mills stood in the 17th and 18th centuries.
Part of Tooke town. There were small dwellings here although it was probably meant as a service road.
St Edward’s Chapel. This Roman Catholic chapel opened here in 1846 built to designs of William Wilkinson Wardell. The aisleless nave functioned as a schoolroom during the week and it was served from the Poplar mission. the chapel was still standing until the 1880s.
Bedke Ltd. They were there in the 1940s. They appear to have made electric milling equipment, including the Ideal Home Grinder – with booklets on coarse ground oats.
Benjamin Coxhead, a Limehouse anchor-smith, set up a forge off Moiety Road, and remained was there until the 1850s.
Edward Simpson. Simpson was a shipwright who had a timber-yard here.
Hillman. In 1823, land here was leased to Thomas Hillman, a mast- and block-maker. He built a mast-house, warehouse and wharves, and a substantial dwelling house called Marine Villa.
Mawman. Another mast-house belonged to John Mawman, on the site of the millhouse of a windmill built in the 1690s
Bricklayers' Arms public house,
Drawbridge. In 1867 the Millwall Dock Company built a bridge to carry Glengall Grove/ Road, over the inner dock at Millwall to connect the east and west sides of the Isle of Dogs. The knuckles of this old bridge restricted berthing and in 1963 a covered bridge with glass sides was constructed.
Covered Bridge. This spanned the Millwall Inner Dock. Built in 1963–4 it was a 1,140ft-long glazed walkway to allow pedestrians to cross from Millwall to Cubitt Town without entering the dock estate. This was the eighth wonder of the world and was demolished by the LDDC.
Glengall Bridge. Built by LDDC and spanning the dock, a Dutch-style double drawbridge built out on jetties with a new steel lifting bridge
Pepper Saint Ontiod. Pub.
Shopping and housing area off Westferry Road.
Riverside (also see Westferry Road – many sites had both river and road frontages)
West India Pier. Built on site of Chalk Stone Stairs 1861. Thames Conservancy Pier for steamboat passengers at the end of Cuba Street. The pier was originally built in 1874 to give access from the river for visitors to the wool warehouse in the South Dock. It was taken over in 1905 for the London County Council steam boat service and in 1909 transferred to the Port of London Authority. It was destroyed in bombing in 1941 and rebuilt in 1949 using the pontoon from the Brunswick Pier. It was used in the 1951 Festival of Britain and used by the River Bus until 1991. It was later used by a variety of river services but by 1993 they had failed for lack of passengers.
Times Wharf. The wharf had this name by the late 1850s. It was also sometimes called Northfield Wharf during use by the Rotherham based Northfield Iron & Steel Company Ltd. From the 1870s until 1880s, it was used by Liverpool based Arnott Brothers & Co chemical merchants as their manure wharf. It later became part of the Lenanton site. This wharf is now the site of something called Millennium Harbour and the Waterman building which is flats.
Batson's Wharf. In 1815 Prows Broad, a boat builder leased what was to become Batson's and Times Wharves. By 1837 the site had become divided and the area known as Batson’s Wharf had become a timber yard. Robert Batson was the local landowner. There were various boundary and area changes between Batson’s, Times and Regent Wharves but John Lenanton took it over in 1864. In the 1990s developed by CZWG
Regent Wharf. This wharf was also known as Norway Wharf. In 1818 the area was let to Thomas Noakes, and laid out as a timber-yard plus a house which remained into the 1920s. Also here in the 1840s was the British Iron Company, set up by London based merchants to run iron foundries in Wales and the North of England. In 1855 a saw pit was built on the wharf and in the 1870s the wharf was used by N.W.Chittenden, fibre brokers, supplying esparto to the paper making industry. It was later taken over for storage by Charles Price, oil refiners who used several other Millwall wharves and later moved to Erith. After 1920 Regent Wharf was part of Lenanton’s.
Regent Dry Dock. This was built 1813- 1817 by William Rattenbury, and sub-let to shipwright, William Mitchell. Houses, warehouses, stores, and workshops were built around the dock which was enlarged to take two ships in the 1860s. In 1914 Shackleton’s Endurance was refitted here. From 1916 to 1930 the dock was used by Glengall Iron Works Ltd (see below) and was eventually infilled by Lenanton's, who built timber-sheds on the site
John Lenanton. Lenanton’s took over Batson's Wharf in 1864 and Regent's Wharf in 1874. By 1891 they were one of the largest timber importers in London. By the 1930s their wharfage area stretched to Torrington Stairs and included Regent Dry Dock. It was modernised in the 1930s following a fire, and new electric plant and machinery installed. Lenanton’s handled timber of all sorts – softwoods, hard woods, and ply wood. A new office block was built in 1937 followed in the 1950s by a works canteen. There was planning consent for housing on their sites from 1986 but the firm continued to operate until 1995. Millennium Harbour flats are now on their wharves.
Oak Wharf. This was also called Torrington Wharf. Thomas Spratley, a shipwright, moved here in 1810 to a boat-yard called Oak Wharf. It was used by barge builders until the late 1870s, and then by coke merchants and latterly a millstone maker. From 1916 the whole wharf was let to the Glengall Iron Works. Briefly called Millwall Central Wharf from 1935 it was used by the Torrington Wharfage Company, for storing metal. In 1936 it was renamed Torrington Wharf and was taken over by Lenanton’s in 1958.
Torrington Arms Stairs. The stairs were named for a local pub itself named after an 18th admiral who was a member of the local land owning Byng family.
London Wharf. The name dates from 1885, when it was used by Skinner & Richardson, iron merchants, who suffered a bad fire in that year. They then built new warehouses which were used for fish manure, rice, grain and later by sack and bag merchants. From 1892 it was used for washing and storing bottles by the Foreign Bottle Manufacturing Company. They made their bottles in Oldenberg, Germany, but had a local base in Narrow Street. In the late 1920s Bullivants used the wharf for wire rope manufacture and in 1938, as part of Torrington Wharf; Rose’s lime juice was stored here. In 1958 the site was taken over by Lenanton’s
Bullivants Wharf. This wharf was acquired by Seaward & Company for the boiler-making arm of Canal Iron Works based to the north. It closed in 1883 and became an iron-and-steel wire-rope factory for William Bullivant. He had previously worked for Binks & Stephenson and had had a works in Cuba Street. As well as wire-rope and hawsers, Bullivants made telegraph wire, and submarine cable. In 1926 they were taken over by British Ropes Ltd and closed. In the 1930s the wharf it was occupied by Saul D. Harrison engaged in the scrap-metal trade, rag and rope dealing. In 1946 it was used by Poplar Borough Council Works Department for storage, and then taken over by Freight Express Ltd, wharfingers, and renamed Express Wharf. In 1973 Freight Express merged with Seacon and Express Wharf became the London Steel Terminal rebuilt to handle steel from the EEC. The wharf had high speed gantries and a cover sheltering the quay. The terminal moved to Tower Wharf, Northfleet in the 1998. This was a Protected Wharf from which protection was removed to allow development of flats for short term lets.
Seacon Tower. Built slightly to the north of Express wharf in 2004 and designed by CZWG. 21 floors (original planning consent 16) of ‘serviced’ flats – i.e. short term ‘holiday lets’.
Naxos Building. Built in 2004 on what was Seacon Wharf. 12 stories of luxury whatever.
Stronghold Wharf. A warehouse adjoining London Wharf, was built here in 1897, and then rebuilt as 'Stronghold Works' for British Ropes in 1934. In the late 1930s it was occupied by Torrington Wharfage. In 1941 some of the building was used as a public air-raid shelter until one night when bombing caused the upper floors to collapse, killing 44. Stronghold Works was destroyed in the raid.
Hutchings wharf. There was a windmill here until 1801 when an engineer, Dudley Clark, replaced it with a foundry and then supplied cast iron to the West India Dock Company, closing in the mid-1820s. In 1815 granaries, a smithy, and stables were built on part of the wharf. In 1864 there was a gridiron for ship repair here renaming it Gridiron Wharf. In 1839 on part of the wharf Andrew Smith had a wire rope and engineering works in 1839–41. He had a works near Leicester Square from 1830 making patent shutters and other manufacturers including wire-rope for rigging. This works was succeeded by A. J. Hutching & Co’s who also made wire rope and after whom the wharf is named. That closed in 1886. The buildings of that works were later used by the Electro-Metal Extracting, Refining & Plating Company Ltd, who were followed by similar firms. Latterly it was taken over by ironmongery factors John George and Sons who built warehousing and survived into the 1980s. On another part of the wharf Squire & Calver, lightermen, had warehouses but by 1917 Bullivants, wire rope makers on other local wharves, had taken over most of their premises. All buildings on the site were demolished following bombing in 1941 and after the Second World War it was occupied by the General Constructional & Engineering Company (Bedford & Son)
Moiety Wharf. In the 1890s this was the London Wrought Iron Pressed Hinge Co. owned by a John Gilberthorpe, and following a bankruptcy at a former works in Drayton Park. It later became a Salvation Army workshop where wood from Sweden was unloaded for their match factories. From about 1902, the wharf was used by the Steam Packing & Engineers' Sundries Ltd, then by a firm of chemists. It was later occupied by the Ocean Oil Company Ltd.
Fisher's Wharf. This was a shipwrights' yard until the late 1850s and in 1857–it was used by the British & Foreign Ships Sheathing Protection Society Ltd, producing anti-fouling coatings. It was then used for barge-building, and from 1911 by the Ocean Oil Company Ltd, oil blenders and refiners and they renamed it Ocean Wharf. In 1994 was occupied by a furniture-manufacturing company.
Lion Wharf. In 1838 this was leased by John Fuller, barge builder and named Lion Wharf in 1865. His firm remained there for the next 30 years. In the 1930s the site became part of the Electric Power Storage Company's works as a large timber wharf, and new buildings, mostly open-sided storage sheds, had been erected. Lion Wharf was occupied by timber merchants which continued until the 1960s
Cunard Wharf. This was the site of the Electrical Power Storage works taken over by the Cunard Steamship Company. It was used for rented cargo storage, ship's stores, engineering workshops, a laundry and offices. By 1922 it was occupied by Aston Grant & Lollar Wharf and used for storage of building materials. It was closed in the 1960s
Sir John MacDougall’s Gardens. This park was named after John McDougall He was one the McDougall Brothers who had developed a patent substitute for yeast, which revolutionised home baking. Their flour mill dominated Millwall Docks in the 20th. As a Member of the Progressive Party John McDougal represented Poplar on the London County Council from 1889 and was chair in 1902/3. The park is linked to local homes by a footbridge across Westferry Road. The park was made up of wharf areas and designed by Richard Suddell & Partners for the Greater London Council. The gardens, which include a riverside promenade and two playgrounds, were opened in 1968. It was refurbished in the 1980s by the London Docklands Development Corporation.
Glengall Dry Dock. This was originally called Millwall Dock and was built in 1810 by John Blackett. The site included workshops and a house for the dock master. It was enlarged in the 1850s. It was infilled in 1911
Glengall Causeway. Built as part of the oil storage depot at Glengall Wharf. It was a public way to the river, along the south side of the depot replacing the path along the marsh wall from Union Road. It was closed in the 1980s;
Glengall Wharf. This was on the site of the former Dry Dock. It was laid out for oil storage by a manager of the London Oil Storage Company Ltd. There were 35 tanks, for oil and turpentine. To these were added larger new tanks and by 1913 Barrels of oil, resin, pitch and tar were stacked 15 high in the open. During the Great War, concrete walls and clay banks were built to contain spillage but the work was never completed. The wharf closed in the 1950s and the site is now part of the Sir John McDougall Gardens.
Atlas Wharf. A cement and plaster works were built here in 1809–12 by James Grellier whose Blackfriars works continued to produce Roman cement. In 1838 it was taken by Robinson's Patent Parisian Bitumen Company, who were also distilling tar and naphtha distillery nearby. In 1843 both works were sold to Wyatt, Parker & Company, manufacturers of Roman cement, plaster, mastic, tiles and paving. In 1845 John Blashfield took over the Millwall works, then known as Albion Wharf. He made plaster of Paris and a range of patent cements including various artificial stores and oil based stucco finished. In 1848 Blashfield began making terracotta here as well as plaster of Paris and cement. The plaster works was said to be the largest in the country. In 1858he sold the Millwall works and moved the works to Stamford. The Millwall works continued as the Lion cement works. In 1867 they were taken over by the agrochemicals pioneer, John Bennet Lawes who had developed superphosphate fertiliser, which he began manufacturing in 1841, in Deptford and Barking. At Millwall he set up the Atlas Chemical Works to make citric acid, tartaric acid and cream of tartar. An associated works was the Millwall Rubber Company Ltd set up in 1908. In 1925–6 Lawes left but used the site for wharfage. In the early 1960s it was acquired by Pfizer and was again used to make citric acid until they closed in 1971. In 1983 it became the River Park Trading Estate using buildings remaining on the site. Blashfields basement storage vaults from 1847 were used as Second World War air-raid shelters. The trading estate used the 1960s citric acid factory. The site now appears to be flats.
Timothy's Wharf. This was the Mill Wall Smelting Works built on a site used by ship owners in 1831. The smelting works were laid out in 1852 by assaying and refining firm Johnson & Matthey to exploit foreign gold and silver ores coming into the Port of London. Things did not go well and by 1855 the works had closed. Symonds, Fell & Company, ore smelters ran the works in the mid-1850s. In 1859 the site was acquired by the Asphaltum Company Ltd, to process Cuban asphalt. That too was wound up after a couple of years. The lease was taken on by A.F. Timothy who stores oil and kerosene, and latterly jute. In 1907 there was a fire and the wharf was rebuilt and passed in 1933 to the West Ferry Wharfage Company Ltd. They stored fruit juice, acetic acid, tallow, oils and cork until in 1940 the wharf was damaged by bombing. In mid-1960s it was taken over by the Arnhem Timber Company Ltd, timber importers and amalgamated site with other wharves and became disused. It is now partly the site of the Arnhem Primary School.
Mellish's Wharf. This was used for oil storage in the early 19th and then a railway wheel and spring works of Messrs Swayne & Bovill until the 1860s. It then reverted to oil storage and in 1885 it was used by the London Oil Storage Company Ltd. In the 20th gums, dry colours, varnish, sulphur and linseed, and mainly petroleum were stored. After the Second World War it was known as Maydon Wharf occupied by fruit canners in the 1970s. It later became part of the Arnhem Timber Company's Wharf.
Fenner's/ Klein's Wharf. Nathaniel John Fenner and Henry James Fenner, tar merchants and refiners, took a 70-year lease of the site in 1856. In 1879 their warehouse was used for storing dry colours. By 1932, when it was let to a public wharfinger, it was known as the Town Warehouse. E. Klein & Co. built an office block here. Plans for the redevelopment of the site the subject of some controversy in the late 1980s, as Klein’s they clashed with the London Docklands Development Corporation's intention to use the site for housing. E.Klein, plastics recyclers, were still on site in 2014.
The London Felt Works. The site south of Fenner's Wharf was developed in 1856 as Engert & Rolfe's London Felt Works, making asphalted roofing-felt, sheathing for ships' hulls, and hair felt for insulation. The site was later acquired for the Millwall Dock Entrance.
Pierhead Cottages. These were built in 1875 as a security presence at the Millwall Dock entrance. The easternmost cottage had a top room overlooking the docks the others went to the lock foreman and dock policemen. Some of them were demolished in the 1950s and rest, then derelict, were pulled down by the LDDC in 1986. Riverview Court, flats, now appear to be on the site.
Millwall Entrance lock. In 1864 it was decided to install a large double lock at the entrance to the Millwall Docks from the river. The contract for iron lock gates, sluices, capstans etc went to W. G. Armstrong & Co. When it opened the entrance lock was the largest lock in London. The massive gates were originally operated by hydraulically powered windlasses, replaced by hydraulic jiggers in 1875. In 1910 C. & A. Musker Ltd, supplied three hydraulic capstans, one of which survives on the south pierhead. The lock was badly damaged in 1940, when bombing destroyed the middle gates, hydraulic machinery, sluices, culverts and part of the south wing wall. Reconstruction was postponed and by 1955 the cost could no longer be justified, and lock was dammed inside the Outer Dock undertaken by John Mowlem & Co. in the 1960s a rebuilding of the lock was again considered but it was permanently closed in 1967 and its east end filled so that the road bridge would not have to be replaced. It was left to silt up until 1988–90 when the London Docklands Development Corporation filled it as far as the outer gate recesses, leaving a slipway. The south pier head was landscaped with some displayed machinery.
Phoenix Wharf. Jolliffe & Banks probably laid out a stone yard here for their work on rebuilding London Bridge in 1824. It closed in 1838, and was probably used by the shipbuilder Henry Wimshurst. In 1853 Morewood & Rogers lease land for a galvanized-iron works. Soon after it became the Maugham Brothers' Prince of Wales Scrap Iron Works. In 1861 this was taken over by King & Riley who renamed it Phoenix Scrap Iron Works, producing scrap iron items for boiler making and shipbuilding. Then 1862- 1870 it was run by Thames Iron Works until in 1879 it became the Phoenix Timber Preserving Works of Conner & Company, then the General Timber Preserving Company (Blythe's Patents) Ltd. From 1883 it was used by a succession of paint and chemical manufacturers including A. B. Fleming & Co who produced paint, colours, varnish, oils, grease and naphthalene. Part of the wharf was still called Phoenix Whir and used by Alexander Duckham & Co chemical manufacturers. Some of the wharf also became Hope Wharf while used by chemical manufacturers H.W Hope & Co. Both sites were used in the 1829s by Winkley & Co. Eventually Millwall Estate flats were built on the site by the London County Council in 1934.
City Harbour development. This was by BDP and Holford Associates, 1987-90, overlooking the eastside of the Millwall Inner Dock. Housing and office uses.
South West India Dock
This square covers only the south quay of the South West India Dock.
The South West India Dock was created in 1829 from the failed City Canal and widened 1866-70. In 1829, the West India Dock Company bought the canal from the City Corporation to use the timber trade. It was lengthened in 1902 and in the 1920s, when it was linked by new cuts to the West India and the Millwall Docks. It is now known as South Dock.
Berths As a working dock: O & N berths normally dealt with imports. M and L were sheds with warehouse accommodation at the rear. L shed handled sugar in bulk; C berth handled exports.
South Quay. The south quay of the old South Dock lies outside Canary Wharf but was within the area of the Enterprise Zone in 1982 and some early offices were built here. It has since largely become residential. The IRA bomb of 1996 was here and did considerable damage to some buildings.
Footbridge. Steel cable-stayed by Chris Wilkinson Architects with Jan Bobrowski, engineer, 1994-7. It originally spanned to Heron Quays, and had a fixed-half and a movable part, each with its own dramatic mast and cables. The intention was to separate these, once the dock's width had been reduced by development so that they were a single span
Discovery Dock. Flats built 2003-4. This is a recladding by EPR of the former Eurotrade centre, built in 1988-92 William Cox Ellis Clayton Partnership and never tenanted. Now flats.
Discovery Dock East. Built by Chantrey Daws Architects. Now it is ‘boutique services apartments’.
Arrowhead Quay by SOM. Now ‘residential led’.
South Quay Plaza; one of three designed by Richard Seifert & Partners, 1986-9, and badly damaged by the 1996 bomb. It was refitted and reclad. One block is shops with a central covered arcade. There are three self-contained office blocks and there is a public house and restaurant in part of it. It was the first major office development to be started in the Enterprise Zone. It is on the site of M shed built in 1967 by the Port of London Authority built, to handle of products from Japan and the Far East bought in by the Ben Line Ships. This ended when the docks closed in 1969 and the building was demolished in the 1980s. The Plaza has recently been regenerated and is now ‘residential led’.
South Quay Hilton Docklands Hotel. Construction,. Built 2006 Designed by EPR with 15 storeys
Thames Quay. Designed in YRM as a company headquarters, built speculatively in 1987-9. It was occupied by the London Docklands Development Corporation and by Norex, the Insurance Broking, Travel and Shipping group
Electricity sub station. Transformer built to serve the Isle of Dogs when mains electricity was installed in 1902 by the Borough Surveyor and built in brick. An extension, larger and higher than the original structure, was added in 1904, It was automated In 1946 but, was redundant in 1967. The building was acquired by the Borough of Tower Hamlets from the London Electricity Board.
St.Luke’s church. Demolished in 1960 following bombing. This was by E.L. Blackburne built in 1868-70. It was strongly Anglo-Catholic with lavish furnishings, some of which were removed to Christ Church. To replace it a chapel with stained-glass windows was added to the parish rooms.
Strafford Friendship Club. Pensioners club
This was called Glengall Grove until 1940. The name changed when vehicle access over the Millwall dock bridge closed.
Universe Rope Works, This was originally set up in 1859 by Birmingham-based firm John & Edwin Wright. They made rope from wire and hemp as well as cables, twine, tarpaulins, rick-cloths and brushes. They closed in 1914 and the site became a sailmaker's. in 1925 the site was used for housing by Poplar Borough Council.
Walker's Iron Works. Richard Walker had made corrugated iron in Bermondsey in 1829. In 1851 his son John opened a works here. They made corrugated and galvanized iron roofing and prefabricated buildings including houses for settlers in Australia. Walker was bankrupt by 1858 and the works closed
Carlton Works. In the 1860s this was the Millwall Jute Works, producing tow for the Dundee jute spinners. It was on the site of Walkers Iron Works and named for the Carlton Engineering Company Ltd, which was briefly there,
Voss & Co. They took over the Carlton Works making disinfectants, weed-killer, soldering fluid and lacquer. During the Great War a tent maker was also on site. in the 1950s the site was used as a haulage depot.
Silex Works. This was a site south of the Carlton works which had been used by Patent Indurated Stone Company Ltd, who made stone from crushed granite. It became the Silex Works from 1907. They made flint grits for hens, shell meal, and water-glass for preserving eggs, as well as supplying all kinds of bird seed. The site was later a depot for the London Bottle Company, and 1926- 1977 used by William Garner& Sons, for magnesite-grinding and the manufacture of millstones
Glengall Iron Works. The site had previously been in 1870 a gas engineering works of Fletcher, Speck& Company. And taken over in the mid 1870s Glengall Iron Works Ltd, who were a group of Scottish engineers. They soon after took on other local premises. The Glengall Road works was used by the British Arc Welding Company Ltd until 1928–9. The site became a haulage depot and used later for scrap.
Millwall Glengall Road Council School. A temporary school in iron buildings were put up by the London School Board in 1895. A permanent school, designed by T. J. Bailey, was built in 1896–7 . In 1911 it became a Higher Elementary school teaching metalwork, science and domestic economy to pupils from other local schools. This closed in 1928. The school was then renamed Millwall Isle of Dogs Council School in 1929. It was damaged by bombing in the Second World War and never rebuilt. The site is now housing, Glengall Place
Tiller Leisure Centre - Island Baths. The original baths was opened in 1900 and designed by William Clarkson. It consisted of a swimming pool, slipper baths and laundry. From 1930 it was closed for the winter, when it was converted into a dance hall.. In the Second World War the baths became a first-aid post, and blast walls were built along the road frontage. The swimming pool was wrecked by bombing in 1941, but the laundry and slipper baths continued. in 1959–60. Adams, Holden& Pearson designed a new baths which were opened in 1966. The slipper baths were converted to an Art Centre in the 1970s. The artists painted of a mural in the foyer in 1985 and another was painted alongside the swimming pool in 1991 by Will Adams. Now run by Greenwich Leisure Ltd.
Stuart's Granolithic Works. The large site east of the baths became Stuart's Granolithic Stone Company Ltd. in 1899. Later they became Stuart's Industrial Flooring Ltd. They made artificial stone made from cement and crushed granite. They came from Scotland and moved here from Limehouse. Granite arrived at Millwall from the firm's quarries in New Brunswick. Stuart's closed in 1962 and the works was served by its own rail siding from the Millwall dockside.. The site is now public housing
Victory Oil & Cake Mills. coconut-palm kernels and copra were unloaded at the Millwall Docks. From 1912 part of Stuart's Works, was used by the British & Foreign Fibre Co which used and promoted coconut producers. in 1914 they built an oil mill. In 1919 Victory Oil & Cake Mills Ltd took the mills over. the company were bankrupt in 1922
The Capewell Horse Nail Works. This dated from 1890 and was on the site of the children's playground and gardens at the end of Tiller Road. From 1911 to 1928 the works as Dunbar's Cooperage which made casks on the Canadian system. The site later became housing
Docklands Business Centre. Tiller Court. Built 1988 by Alan Turner Assoc. offices and business units.
23-25 set at right angles to the street, were the last remaining of many Orlit houses built in Millwall by the Ministry of Works in 1945-6, using a prefabricated system of concrete pier-and-panel construction. Later demolished
One of the first streets to be developed in 1807, just after the West India Dock had opened. .
Laid out in 1812-15 and industrial development all along the riverside grew. Many of the buildings had frontages on the riverside and on the road. See Riverside, above, for most wharves
24 Mast Works. Lenanton in 1960s.
25 Aniseed. This was the Blacksmith's Arms public house built in 1904. Designed by B. J. Capell of Whitechapel Road for Truman, Hanbury, Buxton & Company. Blacksmith's Arms. Its original name reflects Millwall’s principal industry. The pub itself probably dated from 1820, as a beerhouse. There is said to be a ghost Fred Slater - a former landlord who died in 1850.
36 Oak Wharf and Torrington Yards
38 Bullivants, Express Wharf.
41 Anchor & Hope. This was here in 1829. It was Courage houses when it closed in 2005
56-58 Price and Co oil works
56 Fuller & Smith's tank works. This dated from 1840 until 1850. It was an iron works with a foundry and much else. The works gateway, from 1840, was still standing in 1994. The works was later called the Pictorial Night Light Works or the Palm Candle Works, were occupied by a succession of chemical and candle manufacturers. A firm of lead merchants took over the works in the mid1890s, and in about 1900 they became the Empire Works of Levy Brothers & Knowles Ltd. They made sacks which employed many probably badly treated women. In the 1960s this was a scrap yard,
Sir John McDougall’s Gardens
Cassell's Patent Lava Stone Works. John Henry Cassell used the site as a tar and varnish works, and In 1834 Cassell patented a thermoplastic bituminous material called 'lava stone' for paving and waterproofing. Cassell claimed his lava stone was a cheap and durable paving, while for lining drains or covering floors, it was cleaner and safer than brick or stone. This later became Patentia Wharf.
The Millwall Gasworks. In 1840–1 the Poplar Gas Light Company set up a gasworks at the corner of Westferry Road and Union Road. It was taken over by the Commercial Gas Company in 1846. (The site of the works was identified here in Survey of London - it is worth pointing out that this was not the site identified by Stewart, the authority on north London gas works sites). After closure it was leased to Samuel Cutler and redeveloped as Providence Iron Works. Cutler, who made gas-holders, moved to larger premises further south in Millwall, also called Providence Iron Works, in 1873. The old site became part of the Sun Iron Works.
The Sun Iron Works (Lollar Wharf). The Sun Iron Works, later the Sun Engine Works, were set up c1856 by John and William Dudgeon and took in the sites of both Cassel and Providence Iron Works
84 Electrical Power Strorage Co. This had been set up in 1882 as the first battery company in the country and possibly in the world. In 1884 they demonstrated 2 electric boats on the Thames, powered by their accumulators followe in 1885 by a demonstration of a battery-driven tramcar. Much of their work was taken up by others and they eventually merged with other companies.
86-96 earliest houses on Westferry Road, called Hornsey Place. Shops and small businesses
106 Glengall Wharf
108–110 Atlas Wharf
116 Timothy’s Wharf
St Luke's National School. This was St Luke's Church of England School. It began as an iron church built 1864–5 south of the entrance to the flour mills. After the building of a church in Strafford Street in 1868, the iron church remained in use for Sunday services and weekday classes. In 1873 it was replaced by a permanent school, designed by Hooper & Lewis, It had An L-shaped range of three floors, ad was inferior to a Board School in accommodation and fittings. An LCC inspector found shortcomings in 1932. In 1971 the school transferred to the former Cubitt Town School in Saunders Ness Road and it was demolished and incorporated into Lenanton's timber-yard.
118 Burney & Company's Tank Works,
120 Mellish’s Wharf
127a Millwall Independent Chapel. Demolished. This was the first, place of worship on the Island since the Middle Ages.
165 Tooke Arms. This pub was present by 1853 and rebuilt in 1970
167 Bowsprit Point. 22 storey local authority block built in 1968
Millwall Dock Entrance. This remains as a landscaped area but filled in. When it was in use traffic would develop long queues in the road. There was also a dock workers call in shelter here where men would wait in the mornings to see if they had any work that day
221 Millwall Cinema, This was the only cinema ever opened on the Isle of Dogs and it was converted from an engineering workshop in 1912–13 by Frank E. Harris. It closed in 19145. The building was later used by G. Robinson & Sons, nut and bolt makers. It was later demolished
233 Millwall Dock Hotel. This was opened in 1869 by Taylor, Walker & Company. There were four ground-floor bars, and seven bedrooms above. It was destroyed by bombing in 1941.
Millwall Seamen's Rest. This was built in 1891 by the British and Foreign Sailors' Society to provide sailors with an alternative to public houses. It was by the dock gates and Designed by J. T. Newman and William Jacques. It was paid for by Louisa, Lady Ashburton although the site was provided by the dock company, rent free. It had overnight accommodation and rooms for reading and recreation, in an atmosphere of evangelism and temperance. It was demolished in the 1930s.
235 West Ferry Printers. The site was on the north quay of the Millwall Outer Dock. It was built as the Daily Telegraph Printing Works n 1984.by Watkins Gray Wilkinson. It was extended later for the Express and the Financial Times. The business has now moved to Luton and the site has closed. To Let sign outside
235a Docklands Sailing Centre. Accredited training centre offering courses in sailing, power boating, canoeing and windsurfing
Bird. Geography of the Port of London
Emporis. Web site.
Grace’s Guide. Web site
Island History Project. Web site
Isle of Dogs Free Art. Web site
LDDC. Web site and papers
London Docklands Heritage trail
London Parks and Gardens. Web site
Lost Pubs. Web site
Marcan. London Docklands Guide
Port of London Magazine
Spurgeon. Discover Deptford and Lewisham
Skyscraper News. Web site
St.Luke’s Web site
Survey of London. Poplar
Thanks - For this section – and all those on the Isle of Dogs – to the wonderful Survey of London. Edith has used an embarrassingly large amount of their material for reference, but, truthfully, it would have been impossible not to have used it, since their volumes include most of what there is to be said.. Please read it for the detail and the impressive research